Ford - F250 :: Check Engine Light Will Come On And Fuel Pedal Will Become Unresponsive
Apr 7, 2014
I have a 1997 F-250 7.3 powerstroke diesel with 135,000 miles and an EO4 automatic transmission. The trucks engine light will come on and the fuel pedal will become unresponsive. Until I release the pedal then reapply pressure to it the truck will remain at an idle. Sometimes I can tell it is going to happen as the shifting of the transmission at low speed will be irratic, shifting quickly into third at very low speed and RPM. I also have noticed that the light for the OD on the shift handle will light up at the same time the failure happens. I have a local mechanic that is familiar with the 7.3 engine and he cannot diagnose it unless it is failing in the shop. It only does it while driving, and the failure goes away as soon as I release the pedal.
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I have a 2006 f250 with 120k. I am having trouble getting the water in fuel light off. I drainned the water out and replaced both filters and the fuel water sensor. The check engine light is now on and the water in fuel light is as well. I'm stumped and can't figure out what to do next. Will the check engine light come on as well with the water in fuel light or is it two different problems?
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My dads 05 f250 6.0 PSD. He says he'll take off in the morning and the fuel gauge will randomly drop to empty and trigger the low fuel light, but then also the Check Engine Light will come on. My brother did a code scan and no codes come up. Where we should be looking to remedy this one?
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I have a 2007 subaru outback ll bean addition with 67,000 miles. For the past year and a half my gas pedal has intermittently become unresponsive. The engine is running just fine but the check engine light and cruise control light start blinking and boom-no gas. After turning off the engine, the car won't start until the gas pedal has magically started working again. The dash lights continue to blink for several starts but then stop.
Prior to this problem, I have noticed that sometimes the console lights for the radio and AC blink and sometimes go dark at which point the controls are ineffective. As if this wasn't enough, just yesterday when trying to start the car, the engine was having trouble turning over with a rapid clicking noise. It eventually started but now the seat belt buckle alarm is out of whack and the speedometer displays "ER U1."
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I went for a drive in my new truck and hadn't put the pedal down until now. its really cold here (5f, or -15c). Anyways so i waited for the engine to get warm and then i put my foot down until i got to about 100km (60 mph). Everything was fine, I was on a gravel road so i turned around and did it again, this time i totally lost power once i hit around 60kmh. the check engine light flashed a few times, i tried again, same thing, this time the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I eased off the gas a bit, then came to a full stop a little ways down the road. I tried again and this time i had full power, though i didn't take it to 100kms because there were icy patches all over the road and the truck went a little sidways. The check engine light was off, and i tried one more time after that and got up to 100 and everything was fine and the check engine light never came back.
I'm worried, my first real truck here, what happened?? Also when i stopped the truck i had a listen to the engine, everything seemed normal, but I've noticed before there seems to be a clacking sound almost, not sure if this is normal with a 5.4? I had a 2.2 litre sonoma before this so I'm new to all this.
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I have a 2002 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with Automatic. I have been having off and on issues for months with the throttle going dead. This only happens when I start it, if it works when started it will continue working until a different start session.
I have replaced the pedal several times before learning how to check its output with a meter and am quite sure that is not my issue at this time. However, when the pedal is depressed the check engine light lites up and nothing happens.
I am thinking it must be the computer itself, but was told there is another sensor or module under the hood that could cause the issue also which is several hundred dollars to replace as would be the computer.
Is there a way to test the computer, and what is this other module/sensor if it exists that could be the issue? Unhooking and rehooking the battery to reset the computer is no longer working to buy me a few more weeks, is there a simple way to reset the computer to try?
I love this truck when the throttle works but I am getting tired of paying on a truck while having to borrow a vehicle to drive to work.
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2004 Sports Trac Got a check engine light: a code P0913. The truck , once in a while, hesitates like it not getting fuel. Is this a fuel pump problem or something else?
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1999 f250 7.3 101k California truck ... Scanned it said #1 glow plug did not clear the code. But now the check engine light is off again...
Questions : Harness issue ? Glow plug bad at 100k ? Glow plug controller ?
Start at glow plug work way back to GP CM or in reverse ?
Replacement Do all 8 or just the bank of 4 ?
Thoughts on replacement brands
Accurate diesel glow plug replacement kits any good, will they last ?
Or go factory glow plugs
What about Felpro gaskets
I heard about another brand of GP CM
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I have a 2005 with 206,000 miles and the check engine light came on. The code reads "pedal position" but local mechanics are not knowledgeable to deal with electronics. The check engine light has been sporadic off and on so is this serious?
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I recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
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Just replaced the alternator in my 1993 Ford F250. How do I reset my check engine light? It keeps coming on after I drive for roughly 5 to 10 minutes.
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 I was driving down the road today and I lost throttle along with my check engine light coming on. I pulled over and turned my truck off and now it will not fire back up.
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1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
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So yesterday I decided to wash my truck and after taking care of that I took it for a short drive and the tranny started acting funny. Check engine light comes on and the code is P0500 . It calls for a VSS but I cant locate it. Also the fact that it did after washing the truck is making me think its a wiring issue... F250 SD 5.4 4x4 ....
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I just bought a 2016 F250 with the diesel and thought I'd share an early ownership experience. At about the 1300 mile mark the check engine light came on and other than the remote start not working the truck continued to run great. I pulled a P0170 code, Fuel Trim Bank 1. And since the truck was still running fine, I considered clearing the code and see if it would come back. But since it's under warranty I decided to bring it to the dealer. They checked it out and diagnosed a bad Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor. They swapped it out and it seems to be good to go (no more light). While I was in there I asked them to turn on the DPF percentage full screen which they did.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 that I bought in August of 2010. I have 35K miles on it and it has pretty much been trouble free once I got the firmware update for the shifting issues. I have the local dealership do all of my service work and all updates and service bulletins have been applied. Unfortunately on my way to work this morning the stupid Check Engine Light came on. The dealership has it now - hopefully I will know tomorrow.... I do think it has been running a little sluggish but I am not sure if that is the winter grade diesel (I use PM22-A in every single tank).
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My 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
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When I put the pedal down to the floor for a little fun my check engine light will start flashing. I'm not sure how many times or for how long but it worries me.. The check engine light has been on but the car does have 233,000 miles on it but new engine was put in 100,000 ago
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Just over 6000 miles....Yesterday morning the light came on. Dealer wouldn't look at it for a week. Went to my mechanic this morning to check the code it was p0181 fuel temp sensor. I read something online about the block heater making it too warm. The other night it was cold so I plugged it in, then yesterday morning it got warm overnight like into the lower 40s. I noticed the grill felt warm too. My mechanic cleared it if it comes back on do I have an issue? Is it ok to drive?
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I recently purchased an 06 f150 fx4 5.4L with 60K miles. Just recently my check engine light came on and I've noticed a slight rough idle in park. I took it to autozone and the code read P0422 evap emission leak. Bought a new fuel cap but didn't work... EGR valve?
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I've got a '13 CW Loaded 4DR. Its got just under 40K miles. Tune wise its the STG2+ from I.E., been tuned for maybe 10K miles. I was fueling up and I always tighten the cap correctly as Oregon has Fuel Transfer Technicians, AKA People who don't care whether your fuel cap is on right or not. So soon after the fuel cap light came on, pulled over and tightened it again. Light went away. Next fuel fill up, same thing. Third fuel up, same fuel cap light and then CEL came on.
Ive got VAGcom and checked for codes and got the small leak detected twice and then the large leak detected code. So I was thinking it was just a cap. I swapped gas caps with my brothers MK4 R32 to maybe get lucky and the code returns. Thats impossible for it to fall too, so I dug deeper. I checked the N80 valve as I remember those being an issue on 1.8t and old Flows, So i pinched off the line to it and performed the test again, and bam, no more code for large leak.
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