Ford - F250 :: 2003 - Shifts Into Higher Gear / Slips A Bit Then Downshifts And Runs Fine?
Oct 13, 2011
I have a 2003 F250 with a 5.4L V8 automatic transmission with 64,000 miles. The truck runs and drives well, but occasionally while driving, it acts like it shifts into a higher gear, slips a bit, then downshifts and runs fine. The duration of this "acting up" is about 1-2sec. It seems to do it when going up a slight grade at cruising speed about 40-50mph. (Not towing when it does it) It doesn't do it all the time. I'm planning to change the filter and fluid but am doubtful that will work. The fluid color is nice bright pink and does not smell unusual.
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My 1997 F250 Heavy duty shifts very hard and sometimes feel like it slips out of gear (i press the gas pedal to the floor and speedometer rises very slow and truck doesn't move like it should.
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Only during the summer, my 2003 Vue transmission jerks and shifts to (I believe) to a higher gear. Mechanic replaced the computer "harness" but it did not solve the problem. The car has little power to accelerate from a stop. I usually pull over, turn off the motor, and restart the vehicle.
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Let me start with I have a 2003 f250 5.4. The motor blew on my truck and I had a 100k motor dropped in it. I've put new spark plugs, ohmd out the coils. I tried both sets of injectors. cat delete and new fuel pump. It has rough idle and stalls but runs fine at higher rpms. Also has basically no brakes. I am thinking vacuum but I've check all the lines. No codes either!! also cleaned throttle body.
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This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
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2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
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My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
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I have a 04, f-250, with a 6.0 liter engine. I have had the Cat removed and in the last couple months it has developed a sneeze like hesitation just before it down shifts to Passing gear, If I push my foot into the fuel it jumps right down thru the sneezing into passing gear. I have changed fuel filter and grade A cleaned my EGR valve. the only Codes it throws is P0403 and P0405.
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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I have Warn hubs that I have to lock in. All works good. A/C goes to defrost at first when cranking but then runs fine after a couple seconds. So, I was thinking that maybe my pump is running all the time. Who knows. I'm sure all my vacuum lines are dry rotted. What exactly is the need for it exactly and what's the best way to cap? Hoping to do it at the unit itself if possible.
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First, the specifics: 1993 Ford Tempo 4-cyl Auto 78,000 miles (the proverbial little old lady car.) From a stop, the car will rev clear up to about 30 mph before shifting out of first into second. It will stay in second well past 60 mph, and even then, I have to kick it hard to make that happen. It's not that it won't shift; bit it seems to delay well past where it should. If I do manage to get it into 3rd, there's a pronounced thunk when it downshifts at a higher rev than it should when I slow down.
Now the background & other info: It's not my car. My B-I-L lent me this car because I ride a motorcycle all winter, & he took pity on me for the rainy & snowy days. In return, I offered to fix an annoying rattle. The problems went well past that, of course. The second day I drove it to work, it overheated and spewed clouds of steam in the parking garage. I had to have it towed home. That turned out to be a split in one of the heater hoses.
Disturbingly, however, the temp gauge on the dash never rose off of "C" on the ride in. I had expected to be replacing a water pump, but the heater hose seemed to be the only issue. Just the same, I replaced the thermostat and the temp sensor because I suspected the burst hose was a symptom, not the cause. Sure enough, after it's all put back together, the dashboard temp gauge is working better, and a short hop to the grocery store showed no overheating. At least that problem seems solved.
Prior to the coolant issue, the car drove fine (for one day); the shifting problem only surfaced afterward. As a last piece of info, I'll add that I had to add an entire quart of transmission fluid to bring the level between the marks. I didn't check that previously, so I can't say if that was a pre-existing condition. So then - what's the fix here? Could an overheated engine cause the tranny problem? Any chance this can be fixed simply? (FWIW, the rattle is the A/C pulley.)
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2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
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I recently purchased a 04 f250 with the 6.0l powerstroke. I drove it for about 3 weeks now, Ive put my trailer behind it with small loads and just today tried to use the tow/haul button. When you go to pull out the tranny never shifts from first gear?? Its pulls and runs fine until you push the buttan and no shifting........
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Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
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I recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
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I currently have a 2006 F-250 6.0 with 187,XXX.
My problem that i am having is that the transmission recently within a couple weeks started acting weird about the same time 3 of my fuel injectors started failing. When i start up the truck and put it into drive it takes about 3-5 seconds to shift. Once it's in drive it runs pretty well but it will start shifting out of normal when i go to accelerate. Also when i go to slow down sometime the transmission shifts hard to a lower gear. I also have a video of the sound that it had started to make since its hard to describe.
Here are attached videos and photos. I want to hopefully fix the problems myself so i can learn more about my truck. I am going to handle the fuel injectors here soon since 2 are failing and ones about to these have been causing the truck to shudder at around 47-53 mph but after that its fine.
The transmission is stocked and never been altered, i do admit for 3-4 years I have changed the fluids or filters.
The truck is bullet proofed, sct tuner, upgraded turbo from stock, 4" exhaust, head studs and new everything when the engine was rebuilt and bulletproofed.
I plan on going to ford tmw to have them figure out the problem and hopefully its just solenoids so i can fix it myself. I have a link posted also where you can hear the noise it has been making when in R P and when shifting going down the road and it is a automatic.
YouTube.....
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I have a 78 f100 2wd, 300 inline 6 and I've put 2 c6 transmissions in it. The transmission shakes real bad in reverse. When you put it in drive and try to take off it wants to quit pulling but when you put it in first gear and shift up to 2nd it works perfect. My plan was to just junk the C6 and switch to a manual trans but I don't know what trans I would swap it with.
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My beloved Treg is marooned at the dealer again, having been towed there this morning. Transmission is all over the place...shifts into 5th and stays there, or extremely jerky shifts - especially downshifts. Gear position indicator is highlighted in red and no longer indicates which gear I'm in. Check engine light is on; no message in MFI...
Incidentally, it appears that the dealer and/or VWOA is starting to understand how to treat luxury vehicle buyers. Roadside assistance was very responsive and courteous. Dealer set me up with a rental from Budget...made a point to have me pick something similar to the Treg (not a POS econobox). I'm driving a Ford Exploder...a far cry from the Treg, but at least it's an SUV and has similar seating and hauling capacity.
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I drive an 03 Civic Hybrid. Twice, a week apart, while driving about 50, the speedometer goes to zero, then the power steering goes out and I lose power and momentum. The dash indicator lights go on like a christmas tree, engine still running, but car sluggish. I shut it off, and then get no power at all, not even hazard lights, and car won't start. With jumper cables, it starts right up and runs like nothing happened. IMA and check engine lights are both on, and have been since I bought it three years ago. In those years, my gas mileage has been consistent (42mpg) and no other funny business. Dealer won't work on it except to replace IMA and O2 sensors, which it has always coded for, and would cost the value of the car. What to do?
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this has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
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I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
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