Ford - F250 :: 2001 / 7.3L Engine - Complete Shut Down While Idling
Apr 20, 2013
I have a 2001 Ford F250 with 7.3L engine. It has 150,000 miles on it and ran like a top when I bought it four weeks ago. Had it inspected by a diesel mechanic, who gave me a thumbs up, said it was throwing some glow plug codes which I could address later on, and had an oil leak by the ICP sensor. The CEL was on, so I paid a diesel mechanic from a different shop put in a new ICP sensor. I drove it home 14 miles, parked it for about an hour, drove it 2.5 miles to the ranch where I keep my horses, and the truck completely shut down while idling. The batter light when on, and the truck went dead and rolled to a stop. The truck would crank over but not start. I was able to drag it and park it at the ranch, and got it start right up and drove it home in limp mode, sputtering, and trying to die.
Called my original mechanic, and drove it in to look at it. I addressed the glow plug codes with new glow plug controller install, replaced the wiring harness underneath the valve cover, to address any possible shorts. Drove it back out the ranch after bringing it home, and it died in the same exact spot. Was able to make it start and was able to limp it home. Tried to deliver it to the mechanic to look at again, stopped at the ranch on the way, and the truck died completely, couldn't get it to start. Let it cool a bit, still didn't start.
Called for a tow, and the tow truck driver couldn't get it start. Got it to the shop,and it started right up. It has roughly a quarter tank of fuel, and it sounds like it can't get fuel into the engine after it dies. The mechanic is not any codes on it, and can't get it to mess up on him. I am starting to think that it is the angle or speed of the driveway leading up to the ranch. I have to let it idle and slow before making a sharp right to cross over train tracks. I am terrified of having it die on me while I am driving it.
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Having issues with a 2014 shutting down. Was at a stop light the other day and car completely lost power and shut down. When this happened oil, engine, and battery light came on. Once I parked car and turned off, it restarted. The dealership acted like I had no idea what I was talking about and would like to have some information when I take it back to have this problem corrected the car is not even 2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3. Recently started this problem idling at 1000 Rpms when stopped completely and when I let off the gas pedal it idles real funny like it's fixing to run out of fuel. It does not do this all the time however. At times it runs great. I had my mechanic scan it and at first it was the exhaust pressure sensor. Replaced it and it ran fine for awhile and it started doing again. Took it back in to get re scanned and it was throwing a bad ICM code. Replaced this as well and I'm still having the same problem. Had it scanned again and it's not throwing any codes now. I have no check engine light on and as long as I'm on the gas pedal it runs great. It's just when I roll up to stop or when I'm stopped completely. Again it does not do it all the time.
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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Have no OD, when you press the OD button nothing happens and then the OD light flashes until she's shut down. On start up no flashing until OD button pressed. All other gears shift lovely. Haven't checked codes yet.
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I had this problem a few times in the past. Sometimes my 1992 Buick Century will shut off for no apparent reason while idling. When I restart it, the engine will race for a few seconds before slowing down to normal idle speed. Could this be caused by a glitch in the car's computer?
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So I've had my Prius C Two for about 2 months now. I was driving in a really crowded parking lot for so long that the battery drained and the car switched to gas mode from EV. We pulled up to the edge of the parking lot and had to wait a few minutes more. When I tried to proceed, the car had completely shut down (no power steering, A/C, etc.) The car was still in drive (had been the whole time) and we were rolling downhill. I had to stop completely, put it in park, and then turn the key again to restart it.
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I'm in having emission problems with my 2010 F250 lariat 6.4 diesel truck my DPF filter keeps getting clogged up engine just shut off on me then I sent it to get cleaned professionally got it installed drive it for 20 miles and my pick up shut off on me and left me stranded and I can't seem to pass inspection...
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I have a 2001 Sport Trac with the 4.0L engine and it's not producing a spark. The problem started when my dad was driving down the road and be claims it just shut off without warning, no sputtering, nothing. He had taken it to a shop and they had just come right out and said the engine went. My bf looked at it and he says there are no signs whatsoever of the engine going.
No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, we have replaced the ECM, coil pack, crank sensor, spark plugs, and checked the fuel. The theft light flashes every few seconds, not rapidly, so we ruled that out. The truck turns but doesn't start, when the key is turned to the "run" position, you can hear everything turn on, it just doesn't start. When it cranks, it isn't fast or slow, it's the normal speed from what I can remember so I'm not sure if it could be the timing chain or not. Where we can go from there?
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Have an 06 F250. When I slow down to make a turn then accelerate it's like the drive shaft spins half a turn before it catches. Been doing it for awhile now. Now I'm get a clunk when I come to a complete stop. When you stop then truck settles there is a little clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke problem?
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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2016 F250 6.7L 4x4
I getting some tranny noise when towing on incline from a complete stop. When I slowly press the gas pedal I hear grinding noise. If i press the gas more my truck starts to move and the noise goes away. It doesnt happen all the time. This started right after my 1000 miles recommended break in before towing per ford manual.
My truck now has 2800 miles and the grinding noise occurs intermediately regular driving. Mostly on steep incline or decline. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet because I cant recreate the issue all the time.
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I have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
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I have a 2001 2500HD P/U with the 8.1L V8. I have owned the truck for ~5yrs and used it with everything towing. For about the last three years, I have noticed that when the truck is in gear (Either Rev. or Drive) the engine idle almost acts like it is missing. It doesn't do this at higher RPM's (say over 1K) while driving.
Last spring I did a tune up (Plugs and wires) and a few of the plugs had quite a bit of build up so I figured that was what was causing the issue. For about 1wk after the tune up it seemed to clear things up (at least I didn't notice it), but then resurfaced.
My question is: should the "Coil" parts that feed each spark plug need replacing, or could they cause this symptom? The ignition system on this truck is a bit different that what I am used to seeing, so I am not sure where I should start looking for the problem.
Also, there are no error codes being thrown.
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I just got a used Hyundai Santa Fe (2004). I was so excited until about 50 miles of driving it. Here is what happened:
I was idling at about 20 mph when all of a sudden the engine jumped (a little bit) - the RPM went down to 0 and the check engine light came on. I pulled to the side of the road and put it in park - then the car went back to normal like nothing happened, it didnt stall all the way. I was concerned and took it back to the dealership and they did a diagnostic test on it and it came back negative, nothing was wrong with it.
My boyfriend was driving up north with it and it happened to him, this time, it stalled. He said that the engine jumps a bit- but all of the lights go on on the dash. I remember it smelling pretty hot when I opened the hood before with it happened the first time, so I asked him to open the hood. He said it did smell hot. He checked the coolant and it was empty. It looks like there is fluid in it from the outside, but that was just the line that previous fluids had. He put coolant in (not in the actual radiator, but in the place where coolant goes) and it still stalled. I didn't want him to drive it anymore for fear of something worse happening, so there it sits.
Is this something that happens with most cars, or this kind of car? I am kicking myself for not purchasing the extended warranty, but I didn't have the extra cash to add over 1k to the price. Could it be just the coolant needing to go into the radiator? Do Santa Fe's typically shut down before they overheat? I was doing some research and it seems that cars stall because of either the fuel system or electrical system.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe that I am getting road ready for my son, The engine has recently started idling very high, 2500 RPM at startup. I disconnected the IAC servo and it drops right down to about 900 RPM. I replaced the IAC with a brand new one and it does the same thing at startup, 2500+ RPM. Checked vacuum hoses / tubes. I replaced 2 crack / dry vacuum hoses. Same problem for a while, then idle went down to about 1250. Started to drive it, test ride. while accelerating, seems OK as soon as I take my foot off of the gas, idle goes to 2500 - 3000 RPM until I apply brakes and then it drops back down to 1000 or so. (SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK PROBLEM. I CANT FIND IT, IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 CANS OF CARB CLEANER AND HOURS OF REPLACING ALL VACUUM HOSES.)
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When my car is idling(usually with the A/C on) my car seems to shut off randomly. There is a hissing noise that comes right below the cluster or by the ignition. Stepping on the gas will make the noise go away but will come back when idling. There has been times when I have turned off my car by just rolling down the windows. Usually when I lock the car with the remote, the horn sounds really low and weak. There are also times when my passenger door does not unlock with the key remote.
I have no aftermarket electronics installed in my car but just a usp test pipe. I have scanned for codes and this is what I got:
P0430-Catalytic Converter System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0420-Catalytic Converter System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
I am assuming these codes have nothing to do with the type of short I have but the usp I have installed.
Here is a video: [URL] ....
I DID NOT turn off the car. It shut off by itself.
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2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
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After I start up and drive my jeep around town and then shut the engin off. Then I get back inside the jeep, start it up the engin idels rough. Some times the engin light comes on. I had a coil pack installed and still the same symptoms. What do you think?
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Bought the car with 6900 miles so maybe the mod was already done? When I look done the tailpipe with a flashlight, the flapper is opened, with the car idling or even shut off. Shouldn't it be closed when idling? The hose is intact, but I know you can do the mod and it can look intact.
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My sister was driving her 01 Prius and the engine shut off and all the dash lights came on. I was worried it was the hybrid battery since it is still original. I started the car and it started fine, drove home without any issues. Went to the store, everything seems normal. Read the codes and found P0121 and P3190, I just have a basic reader so I don't have any sub-codes or anything like that.
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