Ford - F250 :: 1997 - Lose Power After Few Minutes Of Running The Engine
Sep 18, 2016
I had a dead battery on my '97 power stroke Ford F250. I realize now that when I was jumping it (successfully) I clipped the (black) ground cable to the alternator itself! Doy. The alternator is definitely dead now as I lose power after a few minutes of running the engine. My question is: did I blow a simple fuse or do I need to replace the whole alternator? How likely is it that I did further damage? I ask because I'm contemplating replacing the alternator myself. But maybe it would be wiser to get a tow to the mechanic.
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I replaced the heater core in my truck this weekend. The only thing I was worried about was pulling the dash. The truck is a 1998 f150 with the 5.4.. Everything went fairy well and decided to replace the AT Shift cable as well. Got everything put back. Truck runs, no leaks, no antifreeze smell. After running about 20 minutes, it started idling a little rough and my check engine light came on.
The codes are p0136, p0156, p1131, and p1151. I know these are related to the OS sensors. My question is could it be as simple as I miss an electrical connection when putting the dash back in? Was thinking possibly somewhere on the passenger side under the kick plate or possibly something while hooking up the heater hoses? Maybe even a ground that didn't get connected back when putting the das back in?
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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My 93 sl2 has lost power and is running hot. Would a fuel filter do this or I think cat convert or egr valve.
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My 1999 F250 V10 has started to lose power off and on. It will run fine then when I stop at a light or sign, then when I take off it runs like I pulling something heavy. If I stop again it goes back to normal sometimes. 161000 miles. No check engine light is on. Motor idles perfect and sounds great. I don't know anything about motors...
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My Elantra has been doing this for a while: While running (idle, driving slow, driving fast, doesn't matter) the car will lose power and will not respond to the throttle. It does this a few times in a row usually and then starts running normally. When running normally it runs perfectly fine, nice smooth low idle and good acceleration.
I started by doing a basic tune up: plugs, wires, oil change, air filter. No change. I then swapped the throttle position sensor. No change. You can see the symptom on youtube here: [URL] ....
What could be causing this?
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I recently purchased my 2011 F250 Powerstroke a week ago today with 87000 miles on it. the dealer assured me they did all the maintenance on the truck before i was able to drive it home. I noticed on my dash that it kept popping up i needed to change oil soon.. so i got out to investigate and realized i was about a quart low on oil so i looked around more and am seeing that i have a leak coming from the back of the engine running down to the oil pan.. I have not noticed any on on the ground at all but what this leak is coming from...
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 that I bought in August of 2010. I have 35K miles on it and it has pretty much been trouble free once I got the firmware update for the shifting issues. I have the local dealership do all of my service work and all updates and service bulletins have been applied. Unfortunately on my way to work this morning the stupid Check Engine Light came on. The dealership has it now - hopefully I will know tomorrow.... I do think it has been running a little sluggish but I am not sure if that is the winter grade diesel (I use PM22-A in every single tank).
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The 1997 Saturn SC2 is new to me. It was delivered to my home after purchase and died. The car had been sitting for a while and was suggested by previous owner that it was the battery. After having charged the battery, she ran for about 5 mins and stopped. I was also informed that the fuel line sometimes would disconnect, but that is not the case now.
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My 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
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My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
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2007 Explorer Limited . The traction control light will start flashing and the engine will lose all power, it slows to 30-40 mph, then goes again and the light goes out. This is intermittent and seems to happen the most when the engine is cold. This morning it wouldn't go over 20 mph and finally warmed up and went well enough to get it home. There is no check engine light or codes saved. This is my wife's driver, and it completely stopped one day and threw a check engine light. She turned it off and restarted and the light went away and the car would go again. I've read Ford had bad throttle bodies, (TPS)...
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96 teg 1.8 non vtech after a while it will lose spark some times it runs for a few days then loses spark but will start up with in 10 min sometimes it just just stalls out and loses spark but restarts with in 10 minutes.
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My 2000 F 250 Super Duty 7.3L Diesel chimes 5 times, 5 times in a row when the engine is turned on and then every 30 minutes thereafter. What is causing this? It sounds like the seat belt alarm but they are all connected. Ehat is causing the continual chiming?
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Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
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5.0L V-8, Electronic Fuel Injection, 79,000 miles, 2 WD, 4 speed manual. I'm the original owner.
If I drive it 4-5 miles on secondary streets (25-40 MPH) it shuts off without warning after 10 minutes and will not restart without a 20-30 minute wait. If I drive it 2-3 miles and park it for a couple of minutes it will not restart without waiting 20-30 minutes. Checked engine water temp gauge and it is normal.
The local mechanics found no spark when it failed at their garage. They replaced the ignition module on distributor. This did not fix the problem. In their second attempt they replaced the coil. Still the same problems persists and the mechanics are stumped.
It's like something in ignition package heats up after 10 minutes and either sticks open causing no spark or closes shorting out the spark if that is possible. What is causing this and how to fix it.
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My f250 is having a stalling issue. It will run fine for about 5-10 minutes and then die out, already replaced CPS, fuel filter, and fuel pump. What else could be the problem?
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Been chasing my tail and can't figure out an electrical issue. My issue is that I'll drive for about 20-30 min and the truck will shut off while driving. I'll pull off the road, let it sit for 10-20 min (cool down) and It will fire back up and go for another 15 min or so. Sometimes it will glitch/wig out when i try to start or not start....
I've replaced the following and monitored everything on a scanner.
-cam sensor
-crank sensor
-2 new batteries
-flashed the ecu
05' F250 6.0 King Ranch 4X4
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If I put the Prius in park while I get out and mail a letter, engine temp is 190, I can get back in and drive off on electric, zero rpm's. However, if I push the start/stop button, mail the letter, and restart the engine (temp is still 190), I cannot get the engine to spool down. It keeps running for a few minutes.
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I have had a problem with my 2009 Chevy Aveo since I purchased it last October 2010. Every once in a while the engine shuts off, not while I'm stopped, but usually after it's been running for 2-3 minutes. It doesn't happen more when it's cold or hot, and not necessarily in the morning or after it's been off for a long time.
It happens only once every few months, but when it does happen it's downright dangerous. Today I was pulling into traffic turning right at a red light and it shut down. I was up to about 15 miles an hour still in the turn, and it feels just like the power steering stopped working. Because it's happened before I knew what to do. If I throw it in to park and turn the key, the engine starts fine and it has never happened twice. In 15 months of owning the car it's probably happened 8 times.
I've brought it into the dealership 4-5 times and they've never been able to replicate the issue. They replaced the spark plugs etc. but it always happened again a few months later. When I went in recently they told me it was the battery and it wasn't covered under my warranty.
They also say because I didn't mention it last time I went in, it must be a new problem. I just didn't mention it because it happens rarely, and they can't find what's wrong, I don't want to seem like a problem customer.
My clock is resetting now and it's a different time every time I start the car so the battery may be an issue... but the engine has never had any trouble starting, not even a hesitation, and the radio stations haven't ever reset.
Can the battery cause a running car to shut off completely, and if so does that mean it had a bad battery when I bought it there used? I can't afford a new battery right now (well as long as it is still starting fine) and frankly I don't believe that's the problem.
Is this a computer issue in the car?
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