Ford - F250 :: 1995 - CEL Starts Blinking And Then Stays On / Power Drops Off Drastically
Oct 21, 2016
I have a 1995 F250 SuperDuty pickup with a 5.8L FI Engine and an automatic Transmission with Overdrive. The truck runs great except when I am towing a trailer up a grade. When I start the grade climb after a few minutes, the Check Engine Light starts blinking and then stays On, and the power drops off drastically. Sometimes I am just going 30 mph up the grade. Doesn't matter if I am towing a 1500 Lb or a 6000 LB trailer, the behavior is the same. I might mention that when I am towing I turn OFF the overdrive via the button on the end of the transmission shifter. When I reach the summit, of if I am going downhill, or on flat ground the Check Engine light goes OFF and power returns. I understand that the 1995 F250's computer does not store codes, so I am up the creek on this one. I don't know how I can simulate the condition at a mechanics shop.
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I just got this f350 6.0l and I experienced an electrical problem with the trans gauge, started flicking a lil then go all the way up to over hit and check gauge light go on and my tow light starts blinking..
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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When the 04 Prius is turned on the Gauge starts at one small left bar (empty) then Jumps to all bars lit (full) and starts to blink , and blink, and blink. The tank is almost full.
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my 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
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I have a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and 181,000 miles on it, recently got stuck in the snow (in 2wd because i forgot to lock the hubs) and the rear wheels did alot of spinning. Now i randomly have the OD light start to blink, sometimes its a half a blink, sometimes it'll stay on for a few seconds, itll do it randomly while crusing down the road at a constant speed, also noticed my rpms fluctuate a tad at idle.
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1995 ford ranger with 4.0. It idles rough. Replaced MAF TPS fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator upper o2 sensor. IAC.. still idles rough RPMs drop. It isn't as bad since replacing MAF but still not right. What else is there.. Cleaned out the air intake port it was gummed up. Don't know what else to do?
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My 2002 f250 starts but has no throttle, I did replace the throttle body, still no luck, i did find a wire on the shiffter that had a bad spot , fixxed it still no throttle, code reader says it passes with no codes, I disconnected both batteries and waited 15 to 20 min, reconnected them, started the truck and let it idle for 20 min so what do i need to do now. I just cant figure it out....
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I'm posting this for my neighbor who has a F250 that's 8 years old. He has replaced many parts, engine from what I know but now when he starts the truck it starts fine but as soon as he starts the truck, the brakes lock up. He can't move it. He hasn't had the chance to move it because the brakes lock as soon as the truck starts. It starts fine and idles fine but can't move because the brakes are locked. Tomorrow the tow truck will haul it to the ford dealership so they can look at it and run the diagnosis computer on it.
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I have a 2000 F-250 7.3 L Diesel w/200,000+ miles on it.
I use the truck for snowplowing and last snowfall one of my employees broke the overdrive switch on the PRNDL shift lever. I just replaced it and as I went to start the truck I had just turned the key to run in order to let the glow plugs warm up and the truck attempted to start itself.
As it was running I could hear the starter continue to run although I never fully turned the key. I have since then replaced the ignition switch and the key lock cylinder. That didn't fix the issue, I then pulled the fuse box that is inside the cab of the truck to inspect the GEM module. Other than lots of dust there was no corrosion or any see-able issues with the module. I cleaned all connections thoroughly and even applied a little dielectric grease to the connections.
Still has the same issue, I ran a voltmeter to the trigger wire on the starter relay and it reads 10V when the key is turned to run. I believe it should not read any voltage until the key is turned to start. If I have the trigger wire on the starter relay disconnected the truck won't start, obviously. I don't believe the starter relay is bad because it does start only when the key is in the run position and it has never attempted to start without the key.
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I have an 03 f250 that i think is getting air in the fuel line when it sits. It turns over starts and immediately shuts off. Then i have to crank it for a minute or so before it will start. After that it is good all day. Next day it might sputter on start but stays on. More than a day it shuts off immediately and needs cranking for a minute...
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I've got an '05 F-250 starts and dies numerous times, have to rev throttle to keep running then it stays running. I've replaced FICM, PCM, Eng. harness, IPR, CMP, what else is there to do?
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I have a 04 late model F250. I have done the EGR delete, oil cooler upgrade, and blue spring upgrade. I have a SCT tuner but truck is currently set to stock.
My issue is it starts fine runs good but dies after about 2 minutes. No stutter or stumble. It acts as if some one just turns the key off. I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes and then it will restart. If I try any sooner then it just cranks but will not fire. This started about three weeks ago. At that time I would be driving and it would just die. I could slip into neutral turn key and it would fire right back up and I could continue down the road. As time has gone by the issue has reoccurred more often and now I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes to get it to start again but then as stated only runs for about 2 minutes and then dies again.
I have a scangauge and here are the readings I can get.
FICM main power is 47.5 - 48 volts at all times = good
FICM Logic power is 10.5 - 11.5 volts at all times = ???
IPR is 33% at idle = good Scangauge does not react fast enough to get info at startup.
ICP voltage KOEO 0.25 volts
Start 1.33 volts
Idle 1.11 - 1.13 volts dips briefly to 0.96 volts
ICP pressure Start 900+
Idle 830ish
Sync between CAMshaft and Crankshaft is 1 = good
Have not gotten fitting to do fuel pressure test yet.
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So i just bought a b4000 pickup 5spd .. Anyway the truck has eletrical 4x4 with manual hubs. When i turn the switch nothing happens. The 4wd/4wd low lights both flash 6x then go off then flash again while running , driving, koeo, anytime like an obd1 check engine light code flashing. Anyway i checked the wiring for the 4wd switch no power, went to the fuse interior no pwr, went to the engine fuse box power. You don't hear the transfer case engage at all as well.
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I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
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I'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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My truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
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