Ford - F250 :: 1985 - Half Throttle But Backfires
Apr 2, 2012
I have a 1985 Ford F250 with a 351 windstar in it. I just put a new fuel pump and fuel filter on my truck and it starts and drives but back fires really bad. Sparks are hitting just fine and I am almost positive that all vacuum lines are plugged in or plugged off. What it would be? What about the float could it cause that. Its fine at half throttle but backfires anymore than that.
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I have this 03 3.0 flex fuel that as of lately (2 months) has developed a whistle when throttle is pressed half way or more.... not sure what or where its coming from..
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Well I Took my truck (1985 F250 6.9L IDI C6) and went through a little mud bog got some water in the tranny, no biggy i flushed the fluids out a couple times and went to drive it. But now it wont shift from 1st to 2nd but i can manually shift it from 1-2 I replaced the Modulator and that havent made a difference. Is there anything I should look into?
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I had a fuel leak at the pump cover (I straightened the cover) and am ready to install the new diaphragm. The old one came out with the rivet head side upward and the pump lever riding on the protruding pin side. Which is correct? This is on an 85 F250 with a Motorcraft carb.
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My diesel truck is stuck at work. It cranks but it's not starting up. When I turn the key, the glow plug light takes a lot longer than usual to turn off. When I try to start the truck, it cranks fine and I get a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. I've had this truck less than a year and I know very little about Diesel engines. I at least need to get it running long enough to get home. The parking lot at work is really busy pretty much 24/7 and towing it out of there would get pretty dicey.
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Yesterday, I was taking off from a light and noticed that when I got around 10 PSI, the car kind of nosed over and sputtered. So I started to play around and discovered that no matter what gear, this always happened between 7-12 PSI of boost. Normal driving for me is shifting around 3k RPM, about half throttle. Sometimes when I shift, it pops. Not like a normal, chipped car pop but not quite loud enough to be a backfire.
I took my dad out in the car and got to 55 MPH, then held the throttle half way to keep boost around 10 PSI and it would start sputtering/bogging down erratically. Any more then 12, and the car is fine. Any less then 7 and the car is fine. He suggested a Throttle Position Sensor that has a dead spot in it.
Here's some thought from me:
Coils/Misfires - If it were a coil or misfiring, it would be all the time, not just what I described above, correct?
Boost Leak - At WOT, the car gets up and goes while holding steady boost.
Vac Leak - I've been told at idle, the car is supposed to have 19-21 in Hg of vacuum. It's at 20.
If you turn your speakers up, you can actually hear the exhaust gurgling in the video when I hit the spot I am talking about. There are no loud noises, so don't worry about maxing them. I had to.
[URL] ...
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98 AEB just rebuilt the engine completely, put a K04-15 turbo on it along with a FMIC and a forge diverter/BOV. Everything runs great idles great. when i try to get into it it bucks at 4500+ rpm. when i baby it she runs great smooth sailing. Is this a fuel issue?
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0 and I was accelerating on the interstate the other day and the car just started bogging down and now the car only accelerates slowly at partial throttle any more and it makes a loud intake noise and bogs down also the car idles bad and even at partial throttle the car struggles to get above 3k rpm, I scan for codes and got MAF, O2 sensor before the cat and camshaft position sensor, I replaced the camshaft position sensor and car still runs like crap, what is the problem??
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My 92 Celica 5SFE 2.2L auto sputters at half throttle. But if I release gas pedal, performance normalizes. I already changed spark plugs cables, ignition coil fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced timing belt, engine starts right up and idles a bit high, around 1300 RPM when cold in Park, then when warm 800 RPM in drive. I don't know if it's an electrical issue or a vacuum related issue, spark plugs get carbon fouled after driving like this. I'm tired of having all the newer cars pass me by and my car "running" on 3 pistons.
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Picked up a used 10 prius iv with 31k and have put 1200 miles so far. One troubling thing I have noticed is this weird shudder/vibration that occurs between 30-40mph when the throttle is at the half way point (area between the light green and dark green bar) Vibration similar to that of driving over the rumble strip on the highway but not nearly as harsh and the noise would be similar to when you have one rear window open in the car and it creates the pulsating wind noise.
It doesn't do it all the time and mashing the throttle seems to alleviate the problem. It doesn't happen so much when cruising around town but it happens every time I get near the top of the incline in our office park and the car continues to lose speed until such time as I get back on the gas but it continues to do it until I turn into the parking lot. Occasionally it does it when coasting down a hill with the throttle right near the point of crossing from light green to dark green on the screen.
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I have a '99 passat 1.8t Tiptronic. 106,000 miles. Recently I've been getting a bad hesitation when accelerating from a stop. At half throttle the car kinda bogs down and hesitates then as the rpms get higher it seems to clear out and accelerate smoother. At the same time the car doesn't have the same sack it used to. I checked he plugs, found them very fouled. Replaced them and the problem got a little better, but definitely still there. There has to be a reason the plugs fouled. There is no CEL so I don't really know what to check first.
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I have a 04' Jetta 1.8T (AWP) my mods are APR Chip (91octane program) Forge 007 DV, APR TIP, NGK spark plugs, catback exhaust. This issue I am having pretty much started when i got it chipped and I've got it reflashed and I've even talked to people at APR and they are saying that it couldn't be a software issue. Anyhow the problem I am having is at partial throttle my car kind of hesitates a little at 5psi and when i let of the gas the car kind of hiccups a little.. but if i really punch it in every gear i hit 21-22psi no problem, the problem happens when I am driving normal and its really annoying.
I have switched several different N75 valves, I am running the stock one now, I've switched different DV's, i have switched my spark plugs and even put at APR turbo inlet pipe and i have checked for boost/vacuum leaks, I have no CEL...all this hasn't resolved my problem.. I don't know what else to do..
I was thinking about switching my MAF to see if it works, but then again if it was my MAF im sure I would have a CEL. I also was thinking about putting my N75 valve backwards even the DV backwards to see if it works?
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I just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
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Yesterday it was running fine today only half throttle, going up a hill no power throttle push 12 down let off the throttle engine smooths out and starts picking up speed ....
EGR stuck????
CAC boots look good do not hear any leaks on the tubes
no smoke
ICP 675 at idle full temp, cold 1200
OEM filters with OEM caps
ficm 48.5 to 47.5
Can hear the turbo spool up
Oil temp less than 10 dec difference with water temp
No code showing up
141,000 2003 F-350 dually
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Every once in a while (maybe once a week) I notice that my transmission will slip (fails to engage for about half a second after hitting the throttle). Usually this happens after I have slowed down to almost a stop and then accelerate. The last time this happened I was on a slight incline (maybe 4%).
Is this something to worry about? Any easy way to test if this is an indicator of a big problem coming up down the road? The car has about 130k miles on it now and the transmission fluid and filter was changed at about 90k, the fluid level was checked by a VW tech so I assume it is correct.
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I recently acquired a 1983 F-250 regular cab with one previous owner and a known issue...the engine heaving for gas once it dropped to the half-tank mark.
Both fuel pump and fuel filter had been recently changed, among other small maintenance adjustments including new sparks and wires. In driving it down from the mountains following the vehicle transfer, the engine completely died at half tank. I then poured 2 spare gallons into the tank and it started up and finished the journey home. Prior to arriving home, I filled the tank completely and it only took 6 more gallons (19gal tank). So this doesn't seem to be an issue of a fuel gauge malfunction.
I'm perplexed. How is it that it can run fine at full tank, but upon reaching half it begins to sporadically shudder, as if not getting enough gas? If I continue to run the truck beyond half, it will stall or not start at all. Put a couple more gallons in, and it starts right up. When it's on half and won't start, it still fires with starting fluid. I suspect there's an air leak in some component in the tank.
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I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
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I have 03 F-250 with a 5.4 in it. Recently noticed the gas gauge is not moving much and seems like it will not go below half a tank. The gauge will go up however when i put gas in it. I just put techtron in it last night to see if this might work. Wasn't to sure if i did a battery reset on the truck if that may work as well.
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So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
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I recently bought a 2005 Ford F250 Super Duty, diesel 6.0.
As I was driving to work this morning I noticed that the fuel gauge read almost full when it should have only had a half tank. A little while later I heard a beep and saw that the gauge was now on empty with a "Low Fuel" message displayed. Then I noticed the heater was suddenly blowing cold air.
I've only had the truck for a few weeks, but haven't had any other problems. I did replace the CD receiver and all of the instrument cluster lights a couple weeks ago, but everything seemed to be working fine after.
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