My 86 f150 will start great and run when cold, but when it warns up it won't start. I will turn over strong, but it just won't fire. I have replaced the ecm and the Icm. What else could it be?
View 6 RepliesM y 2000 F150 5.4 motor has a little miss but only after it warms up It does not show up on the code reader . Right before this the #2 coil went out so I changed it .
View 3 RepliesLast fall I flushed and changed out my water pump, Thermostat, Coolant Temperature sensor, and coolant reservoir. My 2001 Excursion ran find all fall and winter long. This year I changed out the Fan clutch.
Problem: when it warms up and drive well for a while than the gauge start to go up and start staying its overheating. The weird thing is when I turn on the A/C it brings the temperature back down. When its in gear and running without the A/C it creeps up to almost the red. I cleaned the Radiator and made sure it was clean but it still does the same thing. On top of that, the upper hose (when the car is turned off) seem to colapse slightly.
Other than getting it professional Flushed I don't know. The coolant has nothing to do with the Radiator? I'm pretty much stump with it.
I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
I have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
View 14 RepliesWe've been having intermittent issues with no start after car warms up. No codes have been thrown, newer plugs. Car runs fine once it starts no misses or hesitations. I haven't found any good sources for schematics of fuel sys or ignition in order to begin to diagnose the problem. Issue isn't present on cold start or after car has set a few hours (at least not yet). Cranks strong. Once when I drove the car and got stuck I was able to give it a shot of starting fluid after the air box and got it to fire off. which leads me to think it's fuel related. I haven't had the tools to check spark the last time I got stuck. My wife typically drives it as my commute doesn't replicate the problem.
View 4 RepliesWhere the ICP is located on a 2006 f350? I have a no start condition after the truck warms up, everything else is fine. Started fluid works to crank, I suspect the ICP and /or Orings.
View 4 RepliesFirst time user here, have done several repairs to my vehicles, but I'm still a greenhorn when it comes to general car operation knowledge.
My 1997 Geo Metro with a 1.3 Liter will start when the engine is cold but once it warms up it refuses to start. I've replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, and checked to make sure the fuel pump is working and it is. I think I've narrowed it down to the fact that the fuel injector is not pulsing. It will fire when I prime it, but dies immediately.
Timing belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
View 2 RepliesMy fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
View 2 RepliesI've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
2003 F150 V6 automatic 123K 2WD single cab long bed and yes....its white in color - so we all know exactly what we're talking about!
Occasionally it takes longer to start then normal. Battery is good, spark plugs are new. Runs great once its started. It turns over fast and everything. So electrical doesn't seem to be the issue but my guess is low fuel pressure or something.
Truck runs happy once started so I don't know that it would indicate a bad fuel pump.
256,000 miles. Started overheating as soon as the truck started up. Replaced the radiator and thermostat, and now overheats when driven over 40mph. (Does not overheat in idle or under 40). Everyone I've talked to says I've got a blown head gasket, but i DO NOT have water in my oil or white smoke coming out of the tailpipe.
View 2 RepliesAfter truck gets warm it won't restart.
View 5 RepliesMechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
View 9 RepliesI just put an '86 5.0 engine from an F150 2wd pickup in my '87 truck of the same model. The motor was running when pulled but when I set in the '87, it won't run. I've replaced coil, distributor assembly, plugs, wires, throttle body, checked timing etc. I've got spark through the plugs and fuel in the cylinder but with no luck. Don't know where to turn next.
View 3 RepliesWent to start "Larry", my 1990 Ford F150, the engine cranked but did not start. I switched to the other fuel tank and it started right up. The tank I normally use is the rear one and the pump had been getting noisier while it was running so I knew it would be soon to fail and it made no sounds when I checked it later to see if it would click and whir. I pulled the tank and installed a new pump. To test it I turned the key and heard the pump whir and stop. I turned the key to start and it started and died a couple ti mes. Front tank switched on and the truck started. While running I switched to rear tank and it died. So I have the pump in and it sounds like it runs up to pressure but the fuel is not moving.
Thought maybe I had fuel lines crossed but my manual seems to indicate they are two different sizes so that left me scratching my head... I have years of experience doing all my own wrenching but this is my first in-tank pump replacement. I have assisted a friend on a couple but never really wanted to pull a fuel tank and in my case this job required I remove the tow hitch set up as well. The hand pump for $9 at Harbor Freight was worth every cent as it made moving fuel to front tank a snap. So what the heck is happening? I don't see how a pump could be installed wrong, it is getting power on initial key turn...I should add the only time it did start I presume was because of fuel in the line that the front tank had supplied on previous start ups...
I left the keys in the ignition last night. I didn't think it was left on, but apparently it was. This morning when I tried to crank the truck, it wouldn't start. The dash lights came on, but it didn't make any sound. I tried to jump it off, and it still won't turn over. What it could be??
The truck that wouldn't start was a 97 Ford F150, the car I was trying to jump it with was a 96 Honda Civic. Someone told me that might be the problem, that the small car wouldn't give enough power to a truck...
I have a Ford F150 Triton Super cab that once and a while it will not start after a heavy rain. When I turn the key it sounds like I am not getting a spark or gas. Besides that everything comes on normal.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 ford f150. Every time I fill it up with gas it wont start upon the first try just turns over. Second time it sputters and then stalls.Third time it starts then runs and stalls.Fourth time it will start fine until I fill the truck up with gas again. I caught part of a Car Talk shop on Saturday May 25 about a gas fumes the new sealed gas tanks, charcoal filters. Didn't hear all of the program.I read some articles on the internet about a possible gas tank valve. What is the problem with this ford f150 truck to make it stall out after it is filled with gas???
View 5 RepliesOnce I had driven for about 15 minutes and the truck set for about 5 minutes. Then it would not start. Another time, I drove for about 20 minutes and it cut off while driving in a parking lot. I have had 2 different shops take a look at it and they cannot duplicate the problem. They have run a bunch of diagnostics and tried their selves but it always starts for them.
View 2 Replies