Ford - F150 :: V8 Truck Idles At 25 Mph
Nov 4, 2011
302 V8. Autolite 2150 carb. Auto-tranny. My vintage Ford truck which I love has developed a problem where it idles too fast for too long after warm-up. What I mean is that it is normal when it works correctly for it to idle fast for a few minutes until it warms up, at which point the idle speed slows down to normal. The way it works when it is working correctly, after a few minutes to warm up, I step on the gas pedal briefly, and the idle speed to kicks down. That's the way it is supposed to work. It seems actually like there are actually three idle speeds when it is working correctly. Fast, not quite as fast, and normal, all accessed via the kick down operation. Working correctly, it takes maybe three minutes to kick down the two steps to the normal idle speed. Does that sound right?
Anyway, the problem is that now it stays at the highest idle speed for 15 minutes. Eventually it kicks down to normal. But the high idle speed is too much for 15 minutes. Plus as it warms up the high idle speed becomes even higher since it doesn't kick down like it should. So it becomes difficult to keep the speed below 25 mph even w/out pressing on the gas pedal. It idles at about 25 mph for 15 minutes as it warms up!
I looked at my Chilton's manual -- better than nothing, but barely -- and it mentions something about a vacuum choke kickdown, a heat riser gadget, and the auto-choke. How to test each one to find what the problem is?
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Today I acquired a 1982 F150 with a 302 engine, 4 brl. Edelbrock carb. The truck starts and idles just fine, but when I come to a stop, try to give it gas to go it dies. It starts right back up, and I have to rev it high a couple of times then put it in gear and it will finally go. When I got it home I let it idle a few minutes and tried playing with the air and fuel mix but don't know what I'm doing, really. It seems I can hear a hiss, and when I was reaching for the air/fuel screws I got a little shock on the hand from the distributor. We want to use this truck as a farm truck, and plan to get a manual for it, but what might I might check for the cause of it stalling.
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Truck idles a little too fast? I don't even have to press on the accelerator to back-up and out of my driveway, and it's a little bit uphill. (2012 Screw, 4X4 Ecoboost, 3.73) It goes into the shop in the morning for the modification to the intercooer (I think?) and a reflash of the computer.
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Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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If I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
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Where to start looking to resolve this code. It is not an intermittent code. It returns after about 3 to 4 key turns. Truck idles a little rough but runs fine. I have looked up the code and causes but wondering how to deal with this directly and fixed it. I'm wanting to sell my truck for something bigger and would like to solve the issue before hand. 2003 Ford Ranger Edge...
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So my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
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But the truck idles from 500rpm (barely running) and randomly jumps up to 2-3000rpm and then back down. Driving it has NO power, rev it and it stays at 2-3000 for quite awhile. Sometimes it randomly dies. REALLY need to get it running quick and cheap. Getting ready to sell my daily driver to find something else and I need something to drive while I hunt for another truck.
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After truck gets warm it won't restart.
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Mechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
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I have recently purchased a 1999 F150 with a v-6, standard transmission (5 speed). Previous owner said he had just replaced the clutch. Here is the problem, after the truck has been running a while and after stopping the truck will not shift into gear. It does not grind or make any noise, it just won't go into any gear. The only solution is to shut the engine off, place it in gear and restart the engine. During normal travel the transmission shifts up and down without any problems. The clutch does have a slave cylinder.
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I left the keys in the ignition last night. I didn't think it was left on, but apparently it was. This morning when I tried to crank the truck, it wouldn't start. The dash lights came on, but it didn't make any sound. I tried to jump it off, and it still won't turn over. What it could be??
The truck that wouldn't start was a 97 Ford F150, the car I was trying to jump it with was a 96 Honda Civic. Someone told me that might be the problem, that the small car wouldn't give enough power to a truck...
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The truck will not get up and go. When you step on the gas it cuts out and acts like it is going to die. When you give it a lot of gas in idle it also makes a popping sound. When I first tried to figure out what was wrong the catalytic converter got red hot, so I took it to a muffler shop. They said it was not the cc. They then put a new distributer cap on it and an EGR sensor. Still does not run right. The following is what I have put new on it since:
Spark plugs and wires
EGR Valve Throttle position sensor
Fuel filter Fuel Pressure Regulator
Took it to another muffler shop again they said it was not the cc and did a throttle body clean out. I have put fuel injecter cleaner in the gas. When there was a gauge on the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure did not go above 30 PSI and when you stepped on the gas, the gauge read between 10 and 5. Also it does this more so when driving rather than idle and especially when you have to give it gas (like going up a hill) and it seems to hesitate more so after being warmed up. The fuel pump is working according the the ASE master mechanic that tested it with his gauges.
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I have a Ford F150 Triton Super cab that once and a while it will not start after a heavy rain. When I turn the key it sounds like I am not getting a spark or gas. Besides that everything comes on normal.
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It's an 08 Ford F-150. 4x4... Truck was pulling hard to the right. Took it in and got the alignment done, they told me front right was worn and would still pull slight right. When I drove it, still pulled just as hard. Took it back and had tires rotated, they test drove it multiple times and made small adjustments then told me it was good to go. Drove to work today and still pulling. Not quite as bad but definitely more than a slight pull. What's my next step? What else could cause this?
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I have a 1987 ford F150 302 we were ran off the road and went over a side walk. When we came to a stop the truck cut off. The truck was towed back home and have been unable to crank it since then. We have checked the inertia switch, checked the firing, and changed plugs in it. The trucks will turn over but won't crank.
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I am trying to solve a mystery on my mom's truck. It's an '06 4.2L F-150 STX with about 133k miles. It had a check engine light on until today- I cleaned the TB and changed air filter yesterday, and both were filthy. Code vanished later on while driving.
I want to check the PCV because the truck idles high and rough in any setting from park to OD, stopped or moving. Worse when stopped though. Entire coil pack has already been changed due to previous misfire problems. This feels similar to a misfire but without the acceleration hesitation. It has also had a recent oil change, and fuel/oil filter change as well.
There is only one hose connecting to the intake on this truck, and it appears to be a vapor line of some sort to the valve cover, but isn't a PCV cause it's just a hollow tube. There is nothing else coming out of the TB at all, except for the throttle control cable. I don't even seen any nipples or connections or holes where a PCV hose or valve should go. I thought it was on the passenger side, under the TB... but there is nothing here at all. I'm stumped.
I am beginning to think the truck just does not have one at all, which I know for a fact is impossible. I have traced every line on this motor from top to bottom, and I do not see it. Should have a heater on it I assume? What else can make the truck so rough? I don't buy it that "it's just that way". That is complete, lazy, BS. I have had/driven many trucks; 4x4s, supercrew, diesels, jeeps, dump trucks... I have NEVER had a truck run as badly and roughly as this one does. Heck, a twin-turbo 700HP diesel doesn't run this roughly.
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