02-F150-4.2L-102k. Truck was rolling down the road at approx. 35 to 40 mph. A speed bump/table appeared out of nowhere and was hit before beeing seen. Immediately since this event, the truck pulls to the left while applying the brakes. It pulls very hard and is fine while rolling down the road. Is there some damaged steering component or did one of the calipers go out from the jolt?
View 4 RepliesJust replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Ram 1500 when I apply the brakes the truck pulls to the left for a spit second then goes straight.
Example: doing about 40 MPH take hands off the wheel and slam on the brakes, truck pulls immediately to left, like I did a quick lane change then goes straight.
About a month ago I replaced a section of brake line going to left rear wheel.
My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 RepliesIt's an 08 Ford F-150. 4x4... Truck was pulling hard to the right. Took it in and got the alignment done, they told me front right was worn and would still pull slight right. When I drove it, still pulled just as hard. Took it back and had tires rotated, they test drove it multiple times and made small adjustments then told me it was good to go. Drove to work today and still pulling. Not quite as bad but definitely more than a slight pull. What's my next step? What else could cause this?
View 19 RepliesSo I've been noticing the truck pulls left when under braking. So, I replaced the front calipers. Now, it still pulls left. When I got home I felt the discs on all corners and found three about the same, barely touchable, and the front left a little warmer. So, it seems its braking more, but its brand new. So, what should I do? They are also pulsing a little.
View 14 RepliesTruck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either. Would a right rear cause this?
View 14 RepliesMy 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
View 4 RepliesWell, I tried this Death Wobble Kit on my Ford F350 Super Duty from a company called WC Motorsports. Had it installed at a Ford Dealership. DO NOT BUY this kit. Missing parts right out of the box. Also makes a horrible clanking noise after install. Piece of junk. Possible fix to one problem only to have multiple other problems:
1. Clanking Noise
2. Truck pulls to the left
3. Have to cut the factory subframe. (Never a good idea)
4. Changes the degree (not recommended by Ford)
2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
Two weeks ago my front left wheel would start shaking like hell when I brake, not at first but after say may eight miles of driving. I have never been in a vehicle shaking so violently and after proceeding from a stop it would continue until it cooled down. I tore out the caliper and made sure everything was clean and lubed and also to make sure I did not put the pads on wrong. Fast forward one commute and the same crap. I could not go faster than 45 mph without feeling like it was going to disintegrate.
When I got home the damn thing was smoking. I managed to get it to the dealership this afternoon and two hours later the guy told me that the guides just needed some cleaning and grease. They did not want to charge me anything (draw your own conclusion) for it. I was told they drove it up/down hills and it was alright. I left kind of suspicious and four miles later the problem revealed itself again. My next thought it maybe axle end play, bad bearings or joints? Intermittent why? 2004 f150 lariat 4x4 ....
I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
I recently took delivery of a new 2012 F250. It was a cab chassis, we had a utility bed and lift gate installed from the upfitter along with heavy rear springs. From day one the truck would pull left when the brakes were applied. The brake pedal also feels mushy, not firm. It will firm up when I pump it. I could also smell burning around the left front of the truck when I would get out of the cab. Hot brake smell. Took it to the dealer with only 400 miles on it and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors, and gave it back. In relatively few miles the problem was right back again.
Took it back to the same dealer last week with 1200 miles on it now. This time they say they replaced the rotors. I went and picked it up it this morning. Within 5 miles drive of the dealership I can tell the brakes are still bad. Now, it will kind of do a "head fake" when the brakes are applied, pulling slightly left or right, before deciding which way it wants to pull. It will pull right or left now during firm braking. And the brakes were stinking by the time I had it back to them. I turned around and took it right back to them again. Brand new F250?
I have a 2000 XLT, V10, Auto, 4" suspension lift on 315/75R16. It recently started pulling to the left and has been getting worse. At <5mph the steering wheel will pulse to the left almost a quarter turn if you let it go and hold there. At actual driving speeds it feels like a constant pressure. The tire appears to have a wobble to it when driving, I know this because my wife drove followed me in it so I could observe.
It also turned easier to the left than to the right when I jacked up the front end and both wheels spun with ease. I have checked the tire rod, drag link, ball joints, and wheel bearings. They all checked out. The last things I can think to do would be to check the steering stabilizers, I have the dual inline set up, or swap the front tires and see if the problem moves from left to right.
I have a 2007 ranger and when applying the brakes i get a vibration, I think it may be in the rear of the truck but it is hard to tell.
View 2 RepliesJust got a new to me 02 Limited v8 - 128k on the clock
Noticed today while at a stop light that when I depress the brake pedal (after being stopped) it makes a squishy sound - the pedal feels different, but I don't know if spongy/squishy is the right way to describe it, it just sounds like you stepped on a waterlogged sponge.
Now the brakes definitely don't feel as good as my XLT brakes (recently replaced it due to rod knock - 02 XLT v6). It still stops but seems like it requires more effort and almost fades a little. I initially chalked up the difference in performance to me putting new rotors/pads on the XLT - Thermo-quiet semi's with Raybestos rotors.
However it appears after some brief reading this could be the master cylinder on its way out....is that accurate? I planned on taking my pads/rotors off the XLT before I ship it to the junkyard (less than 3k on that setup), but if its the master cylinder, I'd like to do that while I'm doing all my other tune up stuff this weekend
I'm gonna put it on the lift this weekend and see if there's any brake fluid stains to see if air is getting into the system, but looking at the reservoir over the past week I haven't noticed really any decline in fluid level.
Had mechanic check suspension components, alignment is fine, nothing looks damage or needs to be replaced. Tires are 35 inch and practically brand-new...
View 3 RepliesMy neighbor has a 2010 or 2011 Screw with only less than 10K miles. He complains that the steering wheel vibrates when he applies the brakes; not all of the time, but most of the time. Could it be pads/rotors? With this mileage, and no stop and go traffic, I cannot believe it would be the pads/rotors.........
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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