Ford - F150 :: Low Idle / Stall In Warm Weather
Apr 22, 2013
So, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
View 8 RepliesSo, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
View 8 RepliesI have a '95 Ford F150 with a manual transmission and when I come to a stop light, the engine will either idle down more then it should then go back to normal or it will idle down and then stall out. And when I accelerate, I have to gun the engine for it to go forward or it will stall out again. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the air intake area and it still happens.
View 2 RepliesI have an ambient temp switch connected to the vac port on my throttle emissions control solenoid for my 2150 carburetor. It's a 78 F-150 with a 5.0L 302, automatic 2WD. Would a bad ambient temp switch screw up my idle? I've disconnected the vac hose and it won't idle at all, and it does the same thing when I disconnect the two wires from the ambient temp switch. If I leave everything alone, I can get the idle down to around 1800rpm, but any lower than that and it stalls.
Is it possible to swap out this throttle emissions control solenoid with another type? I've looked everywhere and can't find an exact replacement, and I have no instructions on how to tune it.
I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
I have a 99 Honda Accord, 94 K miles, received from Philadelphia last fall. When the car is cold, it idles when stopped (e.g. at a light) fine, but when it warms up, it idles so low it feels like it will stall. Also, once parked, or sometimes idling, a smell of rotten eggs comes form the exhaust. The check engine light remains on, though I replaced the gas cap. Is altitude the culprit? How to fix? It was serviced before I received it and I've changed the oil at 3 K miles once. I mostly drive low miles, locally.
View 4 RepliesI recently installed a cold sensor to my 2002 ford focus due to it trying to stall out in cold weather. It is still trying to stall out even with the cold sensor what else could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesI have problem with an occasional stall that occurs when the engine is warm and slowing to a stop. I have a 1994 fuel injected E-350 460ci motor home. The engine runs great 90% of the time. When cold or sitting the vehicle will start and idle great. After warming up 5-100 miles occasionally I will slow down to stop, the rmps will fluctuate from 400 to 750 rpm as will the vacuum then die. The engine will start up fine but idle roughly wanting to die again during this period. Once the rpms are above 1000 and put into gear the engine will take off and accelerate great. This stalling tendency will last about 15 minutes (if I stop) then appear to go away and not reoccur during that trip.
At high speed and hill climbing the engine does great. It has occurred once on each of my last 4 trips. I have had suggestions about: the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and possibly the crank sensor. I'm trying to figure the best sequence on working this problem up. It might be tough in that the problem seems to go away after about 15 minutes regardless if the engine sits or is run.A few more notes: the rpm and vacuum are great and steady until the problem kicks in. Last summer a shop replaced: the computer, alternator, spark plugs, egr valve, and fuel filter. I think the parts were just replaced till the problem resolved. The problem (unrelated) seemed to be resolved after the work was done though.
A warm startup on my 2007 Explorer causes an RPM spike and subsequent stall (half of the time) on the way back down. I've tried a fuel additive, Ford ran codes with no problems...
View 6 RepliesI have a 94 Ford Crown Victoria with 180,000 miles. I got it from my grandmother in 2008. It's a great car a runs like a dream most of the time. Here's the problem though...for the past three summers, when the temperature outside gets above about 70 degrees, it starts giving me transmission problems. The shifting becomes rough, and it revs and jerks. It does this all summer and then when the weather cools off again it runs beautifully. Do I need a new transmission or is there something less expensive that I can do to fix this? Why does the transmission act up only in warm weather?
View 5 RepliesAfter truck gets warm it won't restart.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
View 7 RepliesHaving problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
View 10 RepliesMy f150 looses power and sputters when it warms up. Let it cool off and it runs great until it warms up again. Check engine light comes on every now and then but not every time.
View 12 RepliesWe have a 2000 Ford Explorer and the Driver's side electronic door lock will only unlock during warm weather. The lock will work to lock the doors, but if the temperature is below a certain degree, the door won't unlock. What is the fix?
View 4 Replies1999 F150, 4.2L v6, 180K miles, 2WD. Trans is flaring (slipping) in first when warm and was told the pump is leaking too. This truck has easy use (no big towing or hard use) and when it did it the second time, we parked it. I do not want to have anything fail and really damage things inside. We dropped the pan and changed the filter and filled it with fresh Motorcraft fluid. No change.
View 5 RepliesWell, my saga continues on my intermittent AC problem on my 99 f350 v10. As before, the AC blows cold but mysteriously stops working on occasion when climbing a grade or stopping at a light in warm weather. I bought a gage kit and runs ~ 45/250psi on the low/high gauges. Clutch is stopping and the metal tube from the accumulator tank runs warm when this occurs.
Seems like the problem occurs when the under hood temp reaches a certain level. Thought it might have been one of the switches but the pressure seems to be OK when these problems are occurring. What/how to check to find the problem? some of my thoughts are:
1. Wire a light in the clutch engagement circuit to see if the problem is in the compressor clutch coil not working when powered up or some heat related failure of the wiring continuity.
2. Check the Hi and low pressure switches for continuity when this is happening. to do this I need to know a few things- location of the high pressure switch low press in on the accumulator) and whether the switch should be open or closed in normal operation. Also can the switches be replaced without losing the charge in the system?
Went to pick up a serpentine belt, they are diff for warm weather package. How do you tell if your 2008 F350 has the "Warm Weather Package".....
View 9 RepliesI have noticed that due to warmer weather and more Prius C owners that the MPG's are going up. No many in the 40's mpg anymore. I enjoy people posting and obtaining over the EPA of 50 mpg, the 60 mpg figure appears to be fairly easy
to obtain with the Prius C.
On our Prius the last mpg was 52.3 calculated this is real world driving with my wife driving 75% of the time and she does not drive strictly for MPG's.
I believe we should all take a minute and pat ourselves on the back as all the countless gallons of gas we our saving and will be saving for our friends and neighbors who have no choice but perhaps to drive large cars and pickup trucks...
I have a 06 Passat with a V6 with 80K on it. Recently I have been getting intermittent stalling at start up, only when the engine is warm(but once on a really hot day). The car will rev slightly and stall. After several attempts, it will start, and then it runs fine. VW service said no error codes and didn't offer much more.
View 10 RepliesHere in the northwest the weather has been dry and temps in the 40's to over 60 degrees. The mpg's have increased about 5-7 mpg over just a month ago.
View 5 Replies