2010 f150; intermittently the key turns fully without turning the engine on. Still under warrenty, been to shop twice, cant find anything wrong and service people have no clue. new battery, no codes. Occurs usually after the truck has run never when sat idle for a period. Start after a while can be 1 min to 2h.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford F-150. It has an issue with starting sometimes. The truck won't start with a fully charged battery but when I hook it up to a charger, the truck starts normally. It was going to get the wheels aligned today and when the mechanic went to drive it off the ramp, it wouldn't start. I told him to put a charger on the battery and it started right up. Without the charger it just cranked over and wouldn't start. It doesn't do this every time I go to start it only occasionally. The mechanic had no idea what the problem was and has never heard of this kind of situation. I'm assuming it is an electrical problem but I'm not an expert with engines. The battery was fully charged at the shop and the battery is a year old.
View 4 RepliesSo I just finished redoing my head gasket. Everything is hooked back up the way it was prior to the tear down. I'm getting spark, fuel, compression, timing was set correctly according to Haynes, turns over but just doesn't want to fully start up.
View 3 RepliesIs it possible to keep the stereo on when turning off the engine with Kessy? There are usecases where turning off the stereo with the engine is not necessarily the right thing to do.
I was able to control this in all previous cars by leaving the key in the ignition, stereo would go off when pulling the key out.
How does one accomplish this with Kessy?
My friends cavalier stopped running about a week ago. It is a 98 with the 2.2 liter. When she turns the key you can hear the starter kick out but it wouldn't turn the engine. I figured it was the starter solenoid, but just to play it safe I took the starter off and had it tested. the starter passed. I put it back on but I left the flywheel cover off, I had her turn the key and you can see the flywheel turn a little bit, so I am pretty sure the starter is fine. I am not sure where to go from here, everything seems to be working fine but the engine just wont crank. I can turn the engine by hand so it doesn't seem like its stuck.
View 5 RepliesI purchased a 2008 Santa Fe this summer.
Since then, the ESC OFF light turns on a couple of minutes after turning on the engine and stays on. This occurs all of the time.
Occasionally, the radio will freeze up and I can't change the channel, adjust the volume or turn it off. It will work again if I turn off the engine and restart.
Two days ago, the horn stopped working. Is it possible that these are related problems?
I have a 2003 Impala LS with around 114,000 miles. I noticed today that the control switch that turns on the AC or heat is not fully working right. My switch has 5 levels, and on levels 1 and 2 nothing happens. But when I switch to levels 3-4 or 5 it works just fine.
My question is is fixing this going to involve removing the entire dash from the car? My guess it's a contact issue, and figure it might be pricy to get repaired.
I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza that I have been nursing along for the past 14 years. Recently, if I drive for a decent length of time (~10 miles), turn the car off to go into a store, and then try to start it up again, it won't start. It turns over fine, but never fully starts. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes, it will start back up again. The temperature gauge reads normal--between hot and cold. Is there another temperature sensor that might be malfunctioning, telling the car that the engine is too hot to start? Where/what is this called?
View 6 RepliesI spent some time searching the forums last night and found a bunch of you are having the same problem I did with a dead battery. I took mine in for service and the dealer told me that Volkswagen has discovered a software glitch in the radio that causes it not to fully turn off. This is a constant drain on the battery that will eventually kill it if it goes unused for "long" periods of time. They didn't say how long it would take to fix it though.
View 4 RepliesHere's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
View 3 RepliesAbout 3 weeks ago my truck decided not to start after having driven many miles. It has happened again after a day of driving with multiple stops. It cranks but doesn't turn over. Mechanic could find no code errors, there is no service engine light. Problem?
View 9 RepliesI cannot figure out the interior lights by using the dimmer switch. Starting the vehicle and then trying to turn on either passenger or driver front dome light will not work. I continuously depress the right side of the dimmer switch it will turn on the REAR dome light and by depressing again it will shut off the REAR dome light. I can push either light in the front and it will not turn on. Once driving down the road and reaching a decent speed (40+) I can push the buttons and it will turn on and off by simply pushing the light. The buttons you use to turn on either light up front actually feels different---it easily "clicks" the light on.
View 2 RepliesHave and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
View 1 RepliesTruck is a 1999 F-250 with manual climate control with A/C.
Heater core issue:
Heat is not very warm after engine is fully up to temp. Would like to back flush the heater core without damaging or making it leak. How should I do this safely?
Secondly, if I do make it leak, how hard is it to change out?
2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
View 7 Replies2005 Malibu LS 3.5L (Epsilon Body) with rear disk brakes. Do the rear disk brake pads have the wear indicators just like the front pads?
Car started making an intermittent low pitch whistle noise (sounds like an old steam locomotive whistle, just really low muffled) but it only does it while turning sharply on right turns. It doesn't come on while turning left or driving straight.
At first I suspected the fuel pump but I'm not sure. I've owned the car since 2008 and never replaced the rear brakes, so it might be time!
About a week and a half ago I took my 2008 ISF to Lexus to have them check out the ticking noise. My car has 63K miles on it and I notice the ticking noise after it is fully warmed up. I normally have just been driving it in Sport-Manual too. The sound seems to come from the driver's side fender well area and I hear it best when it is in drive in my garage or at a drive thru.
At first Lexus couldn't duplicate the sound even after driving the car. So I went to the dealership and drove the car about 10 mins for them to hear. The service advisor and a technician heard it this time. They had to call the regional Field Technical Service rep for direction on how to proceed. The FTS person recommend swapping the driver's side high pressure fuel pump to the passenger side to see if the noise followed the pump. I guess they've had problems in the past with the high pressure pumps on the LS models. I again went down to the dealer to drive the car and the noise stayed on the driver's side.
When I start my 2001 passat 1.8T 155,000+, my car shakes like it feels like it needs to catch a second before starting fully, and when it does fully start it gives a good kick but then stops, just curious of what it could be and what it could run me, but its not the battery I know that?
View 3 Replies3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
View 5 RepliesCorolla 2009.. battery died.. jump started it.. alarm went off on my car since i accidentally put my car key in the other car and tried to start the car. Got the alarm to stop after i disconnected the jumper cables.. Now my car won't start after 20 minutes of keeping on the other car with jumper cables.. Light work but stereo and dashboards light wont come up either.. The keyless entry locks the car but does not unlocks it.. When I put my key in the ignition, the security light stops flashing..
My headlights and interiors light work.. The engine is cranking when i try to start it, but wont go fully through..
Model: corolla
Year: 2009