Ford - F150 :: Bucking / Motor Cutting Out
Feb 16, 2012
I have an '03 Ford F150 with the Triton motor. About 2 weeks ago it started acting like the motor was "cutting out". We changed fuel filters, got a fresh full service, got the alternator checked and did visual on the drive line and rear end ( did have a mechanic check it also). The "check engine" light does not come on while it is acting up (it does light when starting so I know the light works). At first the truck only acted up when it was good and warmed up, but now does it all the time.
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I'm working on a 1987 Ford F150 that's cutting out at speeds above 45mph. The ignition system and fuel pressure checks out OK, but it still cuts out at speed. Today I noticed a new symptom and a rather bizarre one at that. If you slam a door or hood, the engine speeds up 500 rpm and then settles back down.
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I have the above vechicle with a straight six engine and with 100,000+ miles and have a problem that has been ongoing for sometime and am totally confused as to what to do. The pickup starts great in the morning and idles fine. No roughness during accelleration or anything while idling. I take my daughter to the bus stop and seems to be running fine. When I drop her off and drive for a short while the engine gives a bucking kind of sensation. This happens at the low end of the "Normal" range of the temperature gauge and apparent when driving around 40 - 45 mph. I think that it may slightly be running a bit rough at freeway speeds but I cannot for sure tell (Idaho roads are not the smoothest. ha). When the engine gets warmer it doesn't seem to be happening.
What could be causing this? I gave it a tune up before (OEM plugs, wires, rotor, cap) and it still happend. I made sure everything was even Motorcraft to see if that had anything to do with it! My nephew replaced the hoses at the top of the engine (I think they are return hoses) because they were bad but still having problems.
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My 92 F-150 my heater blower motor doesn't put out enough air like my 2003 Lightning blower motor does.... So I figured after all these years that I would put a new heater blower motor in, well it's the same hear output and there's no debris in the heating ducts and the cable lever is working fine to close the blend door, so I guess maybe it's normal for these 92-96 F-150 trucks to have mediocre heating output ;-( Is there a bigger motor I could put in to get more heat..... The resistor is fine to, it works on all speeds.....
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I've read quite a few threads on this subject and came across the resistor, fuses, and relays. I have some fundamental testing procedure questions.
1. To test the resistor, it says to back probe the brown/orange wire to check for voltage. So I'm assuming I would hook up my positive lead, here?
Do I really need to hook up the black lead all the way to the negative terminal on the battery? Just with a long extension? Or is there somewhere else I can hook the black lead to? (I know, how dumb!)
2. I downloaded owners manual, but I can't seem to find a fuse or relay specifically for the blower, so what fuse and what relay is it?
3. In the Haynes manual, it says locate the blower motor relay, in the relay box under the center dash panel, where the hell is that?
4. Do I need to remove the glove box to access the resistor and blower hosting.
5. Anything else I should know?
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M y 2000 F150 5.4 motor has a little miss but only after it warms up It does not show up on the code reader . Right before this the #2 coil went out so I changed it .
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I have a 2000 f150 knocking cant figure out what it is I thought maybe it was rod knocking so I pulled the plug wires and it continues to knock sounds like its coming from the bottom of the motor could this be crank shaft problems ?
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Today I was backing my ex up in my yard(down hill) and it acted like it was going to cut off. So put it in drive and it would not go,so I thought low in fluid. So I checked it, it was fine. So I tried it in drive down the hill and its fine. So confused as I was I tried in reverse again and it done it again. Any clues to why? Its a 03 v10 with 76xxx miles...
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I have a 1987 Ranger 2wd, 2.9, 5sp that feels like it is cutting out when accelerating. The only code in the computer (KOEO) is 67, which according to the manual is neutral drive switch (NDS) circuit open. What to look for? Can the neutral drive switch be the problem?
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I have a 2000 Ex V10 4x4 that I use as a daily driver and also haul with it(4 horse trailer loaded). The brakes are not cutting it, they suck. The rotors have been turned 3x in a year and it is due for pads and I am sure rotors now.
I want to upgrade so that I don't continue to keep having this amount of problems. Sadly the beast gets abused with 3 teen drivers at the moment, so I am pretty sure that is contributing to the eating of brakes.
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My 1992 AeroStar 3.0L 2WD keeps cutting out like it's not getting fuel BUT...only after around 55 mph and after it warms up.
I first thought it was the fuel pump so I changed it. I didn't get a whole sending unit along with pump, I just dropped the tank and changed the pump...that didn't do the trick. Then I checked the fuel filter along the bottom rail and it's very clear flowing. Then I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, how many of you have changed the fuel pressure regulator? Man it was tough! I had to grind down an allen wrench to get room to turn those three allen bolts AND I replaced it while I was stranded on the side of the road!
Well, replacing that regulator didn't work either. I don't know where to go from here. It totally cuts out at higher speeds when it's warmed up. Could it be the oxygen sensor? It can't be the plugs. I don't think it can be the sending unit in the tank even though I changed its pump. Is there another fuel filter somewhere? I'm moving to another town and I have to get the van there.
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I have a stick shift 2003 Ford Focus with close to 95k miles. Last week, the car started bucking at low RPM when it's in gear. It happens in all 5 gears, but less violent in the higher gears. To describe the bucking, imagine you're coming to a stop, and you forgot that you're still in fifth. That's kinda what it's like - as if it's ready to stall, but catches itself.
Since this doesn't happen when I'm in neutral or at higher RPMs, I'm guessing it's nothing to do with spark plugs or timing belts. Since it happens in ALL of the gears, I'm guessing it's not a gear going bad. My deductions leave me with the clutch.
I've had this car for a while, but I hadn't grown up with manual transmissions, so I don't know a ton about them. Also, I know that the clutch is more of an assembly, so I'm wondering what PART of the clutch may be going bad.
BTW, I'm also keeping in mind that the clutch may not be the issue at all, so fire away!
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I own a 2009 ford explorer 4wd 5 speed auto with only 44,000 miles when I drive using overdrive just before it shifts into overdrive it bucks and when I slow down below 50 mph before it will down shift to 4th gear it bucks. I have had the suv to a ford dealer repair service 2 times and they ran a diagnostic computer check on it both times and found nothing. What I need to do next?
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This is not on our F150, but rather our Flex that has the 3.5 Ecoboost.
Recently we have been having a bucking problem at lower rpms. Usually when taking off and hitting a slight grade. Doesn't really have a problem at highway speeds. Usually only on takeoff when it shifts through the gears. If you accelerate more, you can stop it for the moment. Weather doesn't make a difference. Also can feel a slighting surging sometimes and can see it on the tack. Like a 2 sec alternating surge. Doesn't do this all the time though. I have replaced plugs with iridium, gapped at 34.
I also purchased two motorcraft coil packs and installed them in different configurations as to see if I could isolate it. No change. I HAVE NO CEL YET. At all. Wish it would! I have tried to make it buck hard enough to throw the code to no avail. I have heard of condensation in the intercooler, but from what I have read it is a higher RPM symptom..This feels just like the COP problem on my 5.4. Unless I have 3 or 4 bad COPS and no CEL. If I could just get a code.
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My 1999 f150 is having issues of bucking while going down the road and it only happen on a hot day. It's like someone is turning the key off then back on.It's only for a split second. I'm having trouble determining if this truck has the fpdm or not. and if this may be the issue. Fuel Pump Driver Module ?
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I have an 02 F150 super cab Fx4 with a 5.4 engine. Earlier this week my wife pulled up to a stop light and the truck began to buck and jerk while moving. She pulled over and we had it towed back to the house. I pulled into the garage and something felt off, my first thought was rear diff clutches(the truck has 92k). I backed it straight out of the garage the next morning and it was popping and binding while backing up, it would move a little then act like it was up against a curb, then hit the gas, it would pop and move a little more. I popped the rear cover off the diff and the fluid was clean, and I did not see any metal shavings in it. Next I removed the rear brake disc to check if the parking brake shoes grenaded, they are fine.
Right now I have the rear end on jackstands, I put the tranny in neutral and turned the driveshaft by hand in front of the diff. It will turn in one direction and then not go back the other way. Not to sound ignorant, but is that normal operation of the traction lock diff? Next thing, while turning the driveshaft by hand, there is a clicking noise coming from the transfer case area. I slid underneath and could hear it coming from the case. Is this noise normal? I have no other truck around here to compare too. I have used the search function here at the forum, I am just not finding my particular issue. The truck was not in 4wd when this happened either.
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I have a 2005 EX Eddie Bauer. In the past week the climate control system has acted funny twice. Once on startup it did not turn on and once while driving it just turned off - as in digital readout is blank and the unit acting as if it has no power. It seems to "fix" itself... What I should be prepared for - bad unit or something else?
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When I am at stop light my truck cuts off while in drive, it idles low when cranks up, it sputters like its not getting gas, I already replaced IAC valve, cleaned throttle body & mass air flow sensor, I replaced fuel pump,fuel filter,all spark plugs & bad coil packs, check battery & alternator, checked all vacuum lines & every now & then the check engine light comes on with a p220 code: Output speed sensor which I replaced, what else could it be
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My 03 f150 lariat 4x4 (5.4 L, 60,000 mi, 6500 g.v.w.r.) cuts out when towing (3,000 - 7,000 lb trailer wt.s) mostly highway but also in town. Usually restarts easily and when I drop trailer , problem disappears. Same problem with different trailers/weights - no error codes on my OBD reader.
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I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
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Truck is bucking and missing every 10 seconds or so and will stall when taking off in drive sometimes but fires right back up? I got a lot of codes in the torque pro app but some are in grey. Not sure what that means. EGR has been deleted so that's why I got those codes. I was cleaning the back of the truck the other day and found a can of quick start . Guess that might be why i got codes for glow plugs also. I'm gonna post up pic of my codes and numbers of truck running at idle in drive. So far I see I got a code for cylinder 6 contribution? It's in grey tho whatever that means.
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