Ford - F150 :: Air Will Switch To Coming Out Of Defrosters When Accelerate - Vacuum Check Valve?
Feb 5, 2012
I have a '98 Ford F-150 XLT, 2WD, Short bed, Ext. cab, 4.6L, automatic trans. with 65,000 orig. miles. I bought this truck new. When I have the A/C or heater or just outside air coming in through the dash or floor vents, the air will switch to coming out of the defrosters when I accelerate and then the air will return to it's normal position when I let up on the gas. Is this caused by a bad vacuum check valve and if so where is it located and what does it look like??
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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I need to put a check valve into the vacuum line that runs to the gas tank. I know that this line is somewhere in the rear passenger side of the engine compartment, but there's so many lines there that I find myself confused when I look at it.
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I replaced my EGR valve vacuum check valve, but now started getting sputtering/rough idle. I'm pretty sure the direction of the vacuum check valve is correct, but I tried both ways to be sure and still got the sputtering at idle.
The old vacuum check valve didn't give me the sputter. I only replaced it because it was melted and I'm not sure it was working. I included a photo of it. It's orange and black.
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Question, I have a 2003 VW Golf GLS 2.0L AHV (5 speed). The brake vacuum line is cracked after the check valve on the intake side. I looked up the part number on the hose (at work and don't have it on me at the moment), did some research and noticed some revisions to that part number. Eventually settled on [URL] ..... (I ordered a new one since I needed to order a few things). Needless to say, I am beginning to think I ordered wrong.
I noticed that the check valve on the new hose has a 3rd piece that a smaller hose looks to clamp on? The check valve that is in my car doesn't have that. Did I order the wrong part? or did I need to be a cap?
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I recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
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I have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
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What this part it is? It sits over the alternator on the driver side and looks like a couple vacuum hoses plug into it. Mine is making a very loud buzzing noise.
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Troubleshooting my heat/AC selector (manual) problem in my 2002 F150 SuperCrew. I started with the "all air through the defrost vents issue" that's a fairly common problem. I found that the vacuum line thru the firewall (to the selector controller, I think) had a hole in it chewed by a mouse. But, while I was in the process of disconnecting the line from the T on the engine side of the firewall, the rest of the line just easily pulled through the firewall!.
Now I need to find where the line was going to and get a new one connected. In looking under the dash, I didn't see an obvious answer to my question of where the controller is located that the vacuum line was connected to. Where that connection is made behind the dash and how do I get access to it? Hope I don't have the drop the whole dash.
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02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
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Can't find the PCV air inlet hose to the crankcase on a 5.4 3 valve V8 2006 F150. Most PCVs let air in on one bank and out the other bank on a V engine, but this engine has hoses going from BOTH banks valve covers to the intake manifold. The crankcase is under vacuum(8 inches vacuum at dipstick tube, 6 inches at each valve cover). There should be air flow in the crankcase not vacuum. No air is getting in which results in a vacuum in the crankcase.
Once the vacuum builds up enough after a few seconds when the engine is started the engine begins to whistle where air is being sucked in(can't figure out where) at a seal or gasket. If air could get in as it should there wouldn't be a vacuum in the crankcase and the engine wouldn't whistle. Where is the air inlet hose for the PCV system on the 5.4 3 valve V8? It must be clogged or blocked resulting in a vacuum. I can't find the hose and Alldata doesn't show it.
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So, I have a 4.9l 1995 F150 equipped with the E4OD trans. Lately, noticed over the last two or three days, the vehicle does not want to accelerate under WOT. I can hear the RPMs of the engine increasing, but the vehicle speed will remain the same; it will do this in any gear.
I checked my fluid color and level in the trans, and all was in fine. There was no discoloration or odor, nor was the fluid low at all. I'm wondering if this is a torque convertor issue, or a problem with the clutches slipping.
Mind you, my truck just hit 70k, so this isn't a high mileage vehicle. Under light load, or throttle, the vehicle will shift fine through all gears. However, if I try to accelerate heavily, or go WOT, I get nowhere. It feels like slipping.
Someone recommended that I pull codes; they are as follows:
KOEO 33--EGR did not open
Continuous 28--VAT sensor out of range
Engine Running 63--TPS too low
26--MAF or VAF out of range
32--EVP/EGR not responding during test
My plans are to check for codes again, fluid and filter change, and then see what is going on. Would an 8 hour road-trip at close to 80mph have caused this, because after getting back I noticed this problem.
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1999 ford f150 makes a fluttering spun when I accelerate.
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Last night while driving home in the rain, I cleared the windows with the wipers, and lowered the rear passenger window so that my dog could have air. I then proceeded to drive. I then lowered and raised my drivers side window and the passenger window to clear them of rain drops so that I would have an unobstructed view. I turned off the wipers, as it was only misting and then closed the rear passenger window. About 3 minutes later, I wanted to wipe off the windshield again, however, the wipers would not come on. I then played with the window buttons trying to open them, but they would not open, and the interior lights would not come on. However, the doors would lock and unlock. I thought for a second, maybe the anti-theft system engaged somehow. By this time I was sitting at an intersection - at a red light, waiting to turn left. I shut the car off, to see if something in the vehicles' computer system needed to reset itself. I waited a couple of seconds, and then restarted the engine.
By this time, the light had turned green, however, I could not get the car to switch from park to drive. I tried numerous times, but to no avail, the vehicle was stuck in park. To make a long story short, a while later after the police came, one of the officers googled the problem for a 2002 Ford F-150 truck on his car computer. He found that the vechicle had to be turned off to where the dashboard lights were on, foot pressed on the brake, and only then could the gear be switched into neutral in order to be started. Only after going through this routine was I able to shift the vehicle into drive. This is the first time this problem has ever occured. The vehicle has138,500 miles.
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Swapping a 2004 2.4 motor and trans into my 03 that has a locked up motor. Pulled the motor out of the 2004 yesterday and started tearing into my 2003 today and noticed that the 2004 motor and harness doesn't have the provision for the vacuum control valve mounted in the air cleaner lid like the 2003 has. Since I'll be using the harness and ECM from the 2004 into the 2003, wondering if I can just either use the lid from the 2003 and keep the VCV(hook lines back up) but not have electrical connection going to it. It will basically be pulling the vapors 100% of the time since there is no power going to it and it's a naturally open valve.
Using the harness from the 2004 that I pulled with the engine, there is no way of hooking up to the VCV since the 2004 didn't have one(hence no electrical connector).
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This is my other question. I have an APR program and turbo-back billy boat exhaust. I installed a boost gauge that gets the reading off of the intake manifold (fuel regulator.)
So if I'm just tooling along, short-shifting and only using 1/10 throttle, and my boost gauge never reads above -5, let alone 0 or positive, why does my valve release pressure?
Why would there be pressure to release if there is a vacuum, according to the gauge? I wouldn't think that a recirculating or blow-off valve would work in reverse.
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I have a 2002 e350 box truck and the ac only blows through the defrosters I live in FL and it is hot!!! We need to know where the ac control gets it's vacuum from.
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My wife has a stock 03 Passat 1.8t.
1. The car seems to shift too soon from 2nd to 3rd and i can hear the turbo drop pressure. It sounds like a quiet blow off 3 or 4 times when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
2. There is a vacuum control valve that sits on top of the air cleaner box and it ticks a lot. it has a electric plug going to it.
3. The car has a rough idle while in drive and sometimes shifts hard. I changed plugs, trans flush and filter change.
I would take the car to a VW dealer but the closest one is about a hour away and my wife needs the car.
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I have been having recent A/C problems with the climate control in the EX. Upon acceleration the air flow diverts to the defrosters and then when you reach the top of the hill for example the A/C goes back to the vents. I think its possibly a vacuum problem so I looked under the dash and found a ribbed white plastic hose that looked like it came detached. The end of it has a back elbow piece on it with a rectangular tab that looks like it slides or snaps into a slot to secure it. Just wondering if this could be part of the issue or just info on where to reconnect it..
2003 Ex 10 cyl eddie bauer....
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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How and where to check? This probably has been covered a million times.
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