My F-150 ac shuts down when air temp reaches above 80 degrees. The freon has been checked, the compressor clutch cycling switch & high pressure switch have been replaced with no effect.
View 9 RepliesThe AC in my F-150 Super crew Lariat 5.4 was just charged and works fine until the temp reaches ninety degrees, then it blows hot. What this could be?
View 6 RepliesMy F250 Will not start once the oil temp reaches about 117 degrees. Once oil temp drops it fires up. In the morning it only crranks for a couple of seconds. What could this be? I am getting over 1300 PSI HPOP while cranking. FICM Volts 48.5. Just no hot start. What do you think it is and how much at the repair shop. I have the Torque App, IPR values are good to I think.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1979 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U XLT, 4WD 6.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl that I'm trying to put A/C back in. The truck had factory air, but the evaporator is the only original part in this setup (along with the controls inside the cab on the dashboard).
The new compressor is working. All the pressures look good (the low side is around 35 to 40). But we're finding that the air out of the vents is only dropping 20 degrees max. We've checked to see if the blend door was not working and it was getting heat from the heater core. We blocked off the heater core completely with the same results. It just doesn't seem to be getting cool enough. The large fittings on the firewall should be cold (maybe 40 degrees), but it's only cooling to about 79 degrees, about a 15 degree drop.
We cannot see into the evaporator box to see if there is an expansion valve in the system, but we did not put an expansion valve in with the new system we put on.
I have a 05 6.0l. Egr deleted. And my truck has a rough idle and power loss. Ive tested the ipr and the icp and they are reading at specs. I've also replaced the Hpop about 1500 miles ago. It has a real rough idle until it's at running temp. And it has power loss, I'll be driving down road and theres no where near has much power has there should be. And the idle will jump between 1500 rpm and 2000rpm.
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....
So today I was driving to work and it was pretty cold out. It was about -22/-30 C with the wind. The drive is about 20 minutes in traffic. I to through drivethru and as I am leaving I notice that the temp dropped from about 90 to around 75/80. I then drive accross the street to work and the temp goes back up to 90. So I decided to sit there and let the car idle for a few minutes. Then the temp dropped again by about 10.
So I called the dealer and stopped by. All they did is take it for a test drive and do a scan to tell me everything is fine. By then the temp had warmed up outside and the issue was no longer present.
Having issues with fluctuating temp once your car reaches 90?
I know with my MK4 Golf 1.8T when I used to be in stop and go traffic the gauge would go down. So I replaced my thermostat and all was fine after that.
Do a modern car can a scan detect temp going below 90? Or could be a sticky thermostat?
It's a 2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
1994 Ford E150 5.0L. Will not start when the weather is above 70 Degrees F. No fire from coil...
View 19 Replies2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
I have a Suzuki Esteem on which I have recently had following work done from a suzuki dealer on their recommendation.
1) Throttle body repair and Cleaning.
2) Idle air control valve cleaning.
3) New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs.
4) Engine tuning.
5) New battery.
6) New power steering belt.
PROBLEM: (Only when AC is OFF)
When my car reaches operating temperature the engine stalls out after three seconds at idle.
Suzuki dealer does not seem to know the reason behind this and they want to keep it for a few more days however i think they will just keep replacing parts one after another.
I have a 2006 350. When I am pulling my camp trailer (about 12,500 lbs) up a grade I hear a fan or blower turn on and I get a high pitched squeal. It will also have a beep and my in dash display will say high engine temp. I have a bullydog pmt programmer (i tow with it in stock mode) the display will show my coolant temp at about 180 degrees. If I pull over and let it idle for about 2 minutes the warning clears and the temp gauge returns to normal. the display reads about 180 degrees the whole time this goes on. I know the engine is not over heating so why do i get this warning and squeal?
View 4 Replies2002 S-10 2.2L ... Started noticing my temp gauge running around 170 degrees as it gets cooler outside. I changed the thermostat and noticed that the connector to the temp sensor was cracked, changed that too. Had to warranty replace the temp sensor because the first one didn't register on my dashboard gauge. Still didn't get heat above 150 degrees.
Warranty replace the new thermostat and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. Radiator cap test bad at 15psi, replaced radiator cap and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. The engine is running cool and the cabin heat is not as hot as it has been for the last 5 yrs. There are no engine codes stored, anti-freeze leaks and level is correct.
I'm lost as to why all the sudden the truck starts running cold and won't build heat.
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala with the 3.4L engine. The car has 180K+ miles on the original engine. The coolant temperature started fluctuating recently. Going from 200 degrees up to 240 sometimes 260 degrees.
I recently had the check engine light on with the P0420 code which indicates a bad catalytic converter, I had that replaced and I was hoping that maybe the lack of exhaust flow through the converter was causing the overheating. It is still fluctuating however after the converter replacement.
The coolant temperature seems to go up when the car is idling but when moving it starts to go back down to normal. I had the cooling fan assembly replaced last year after one of the fans failed. These are less than a year old and are both operating as expected.
A little history on the engine. It originally had that crappy DexCool in it that then ate away at the cheap plastic head gasket causing oil to leak into the coolant system. This caused the coolant to turn into 'mud' within the radiator and eventually the head gasket failed completely and I had to have that replaced along with putting in ethylene glycol to replace the DexCool. Now when the coolant system was flushed, I am not completely sure that all that 'mud' was flushed out of the radiator. So the radiator may not be operating at full capacity. In fact, driving through the mountains this summer going up inclines, the car would tend to start overheating.
So thoughts on what might be the issue, radiator, thermostat, sensor, water pump, something else? I'm pretty sure it's not the sensor because sensors don't fail in this manner (they fail either high or low). I'm leaning toward the radiator because once I get some air flow across it, the coolant temp gets back to normal.
Also, the A/C is sometimes working great and blowing really cold and other times it is just slightly cold.
I have less than 7k miles on my new Silverado W/T. I haven't hauled anything heavy in it since I bought it, and have been using it just back and forth to work. Pretty light duty. I was parked the other night in a parking lot idling and listening to the radio when I noticed the transmission temp jumped up to 189 degrees! I also noticed the water gauge was a bit past it's mid-range temp. I immediately cranked up the heater core to try to cool things down and it worked for the main radiator water temp..but the tranny sender quickly went to 200 degrees so I shut the whole mess down.
Just before I did that, the transmission idiot light popped on. I left it there for several hours in 20 degree weather and came back to start the truck and head home..the tranny on start-up was still @ 70 degrees. I got up on the hiway and things came down to about 100 degrees at a legal speed on the hiway. Engine water temp was normal too. Drove for about 45 minutes that way. I tried sitting in my driveway a day or so later in park, and the tranny temp went from 120 degrees to 145 degrees in 35 degree weather fairly quickly.
My engine is very slow to warm up when the temp is below 30 degrees. Engine will reach about 170 after about 5 miles. What should I check first? Is it hard to change the thermostat or is there something else that controls the engine temp?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Nissan Altima that has a hard time starting but runs fine once started. It is very difficult in the winter when the temp is below 25 degrees. Sometimes it take me 5 to 6 tries to get it started. I have had the vehicle checked by two mechanics and recently had the battery replaced. The mechanics said the car looks fine. Could this be a fuel injector problem or moisture in the fuel system?
View 7 Repliesi have been told new car tires will not devolope a flat spot.. then the dealer told me that that do. can't have it both ways.. i get an extreme shimmy when the temp.goes to about 45 or lower degrees but goes away after about 10 miles of driving..
View 4 RepliesMy outside temp readout seems to be stuck at 61-64 degrees and that won't allow the auto select to come on if I have it set at say 72 degrees. It has been working really great up till about a week ago.
View 5 RepliesSo yesterday my truck decided to start giving me fits right after it finally got extra cold and snowy here! I noticed early on this fall that my water pump was leaking, so I replaced it. I also found that my truck only blew hot air while in motion, and cold air while it was stopped or at idle. At this point I replaced the thermostat and housing. I originally had the stock setup with the combined thermostat and housing. The new one is and updated GM version with the separate thermostat and housing assembly. Everything seemed to be ok until yesterday morning.
This is where my problem is now. Yesterday on my way to work, the message center said my coolant was too hot. The temp gauge showed the truck at about 250 degrees. My speed was only about 45mph and it was 6 degrees outside. I ended up parking the truck and looking at it after work. I found it was still doing the exact same thing. When I investigated further, I found that the upper radiator hose was hot, while the lower one coming out of the thermostat housing was cold.
At this point I figured that I had a bad thermostat, and bought a replacement. I tested the old one on my stove top in a pan of water and found that it did actually open at about 175 degrees, so I'm not so sure it was bad now. With the new thermostat installed, the engine is no longer overheating and the temp stays around 235 while driving. However, I am back to the heater blowing cold air at idle and while stopped, and warm air while driving. In addition, the rear heater now only blows cold air, it never warms up.
When the temp drops below 40 degrees I get growling/vibration. When I took it to the dealer the service supervisor test drove it. He then checked with one of the mechanics who said they all sound like that. I called Nissan. They told me I had to resolve the issue with the dealer (who is now out of business).
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, V6, 5spd, 91k miles. Only on hot days with temps >80 degrees, after about 30 minutes of driving (city or highway), the stick shift gets "sticky" and will no longer snap back to center. Also takes a bit more effort to switch from gear to gear This leads to a little delay (and frustration) while I fish around for 3rd while upshifting (or 4th while downshifting). Once the car has had a chance to cool off a bit (1 hr or so of not driving) the shifter behaves normally and will return to center during shifts... only to get goofy again after 30 min of driving. What's causing this? Only does this when ambient temp is hot. On cooler days, no issues. Clutch not slipping at all.
View 1 Replies