I have a 2006 Ford F-150 with a 5.4 liter engine. After it warms up past the operating temperature, it dies abruptly upon coming to a halt with no acceleration. The RPMs have to stay up to keep it running. No codes are registered.
View 17 RepliesIt was a chilly morning for North Texas, in low 20's this morning. I started my truck in the driveway driveway, as I do any morning when it cold out, then retreated back the house to grab my coffee before hitting the road to work. This morning was different, the engine had stalled out but the battery still had the lights and radio on. Any thoughts on this aside from the usual guesses of cylinder, fuel pump and purge valve?
View 5 RepliesI have a 6 cylinder '99 Ford E150 and though it has plenty of oil, the oil pressure gauge drops and the idiot light comes on whenever it stops and comes to idle. Pressure seems fine when driving but dips at a stop lights etc..
View 6 Repliesi have a 2006 f-150 xlt, i was driving it today and it started making a 5x5 beeping noise shortly after i started it up. I read on a few forums that that beeping is a warning about the passenger airbag sensor or something. anyways it went away and kept driving for 5 minutes or so when suddenly the dash went out and all the gauges dropped but i was still able to drive fine. A minute later the engine just died and i managed to pull over to the side of the road. now nothing works when i turn the key, not even a light, its just a dead weight, the remote locking doesn't even work. the only sign of life is a LED from my phone charger that is plugged into the outlet. the battery is only 2 months old so its not that.
View 2 RepliesIve been having a problem where the engine cranks and idles, sometimes rough, then I try to accelerate and the car shakes and accelerates very slowly with shaking. I replaced plugs coil and leads and fuel filter with no effect but put on a new egr valve and that fixed the problem for 2 months. The same thing happened again and I cleaned the evr solenoid and that fixed the problem for 1 month. Then the same thing happened while I was out and while limping home it fixed itself. Now a month later, the same thing happened, but when I got home and shut it off, the engine won't idle properly (very rough) for 6-9 seconds then dies. I don't know what to check at this point. Thinking it may be vacuum related or possibly a fuel injector or magic gremlins at this point.
View 8 RepliesI have a 06 JDM prius with hard drive-based audio and navigation system. Today the car was parked in a ready mode with the stereo playing and the audio cut off abruptly. I investigated and found that all of the audio and navigation controls on both the steering wheel and center console were unresponsive. It is impossible to switch between modes I.e. CD, HDD,radio and the CD drive no longer rejects. Bluetooth pairing works but no sound coming from the driver side speaker when in a phone call. When the car is started the MFD shows that it's playing audio from the hard drive as shown below but there's no sound and its impossible to change tracks.
View 2 RepliesI got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
My wife has been using her mom's 07 Accent, the mom is 90 and hasn't been incapable of using it for a while now. I did an oil change (without paying much attention) I've never seen this type of car before. Oddly the oil level seemed outrageously over full and still dirty
Then upon driving it the automatic transmission was all wacky, not engaging at idle, then it abruptly chunking into gear...
So I check the transmission fluid level and it's not on the stick. Research here let me know SP-III is what I'd need. Then while surfing a youtube vid regarding this model's transmission it hit me in the face, I'd drained the automatic transmission fluid! Went to the Kia dealer got 3 quarts dumped it in there, drained the overfilled 5.5 quarts of old and new oil rectifying my mistake, which brings me to the reason for this post.
This 2007 car only has 24,300 miles on it and I mistook the automatic transmission fluid for outrageously dirty engine oil! I swear this stuff looks like it's fulla carbon black n burnt up. My question: is it normal for the trans-fluid to have such a degraded appearance in only 25,000 miles?
I have a 1987 ford f150 with a EFI throttle bodied 5.0L (302), and I have taken it to a mechanic multiple times because for one it has a dead spot in the throttle and it dies when you let off the gas at a stop light or sign. But the mechanic said he checked everything he knew to check and found nothing wrong with it. I also had my cousin read the computer previous to this and we couldn't pull the codes from it.
View 2 RepliesAfter I drive a while I get a ticking , loss of power very briefly, white puff of smoke. Could it be rod bearings? Timing belt just replaced.
View 1 Replies1991 Ranger, standard cab, 2wd, 2.3L engine, 5 speed
Transmission abruptly locked up in traffic, in 5th gear, brought the truck to a halt. Got it towed home, searched the forum for information on how to remove the transmission, and tackled the task today. I've done transmissions and clutches before - how hard can this be?
Well, I've gotten everything loose and am ready to brace the trans and remove the cross brace to gain access to the top bolts - I have seen them, but haven't tried to reach them. I've been hung for about the last 3 hours trying to get the two top side bolts - heads facing forward. I can feel them, have gotten a socket on them, but have NOT been able to get a wrench up to them to break them loose. Feels like there is a reinforcing flange or something right adjacent that prevents access. I've tried extensions, flex joints and box ends - I just can't seem to find the right combination.
2nd question - do I need to break the exhaust system loose before I allow the engine/transmission assembly to tilt downwards? Looks to me like it needs to be disconnected to allow the assembly to drop.
Having problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
View 10 RepliesYesterday, my truck began to shut off abruptly. Under every condition, from idling to slow running (30mph), and 70 mph, to load and no load. Wait 1 minute and it would start and run for 1 minute 15 seconds. If the batteries were disconnected, the truck would run for 13 minutes before shutting off. Have replaced the fuel filters. Still does it, but runs for between 10 and 20 minutes before shutting off.
Am seeing only two errors codes. P1000, and P0603. I was 40 miles into the Ville Vidal, when this started, and 150 miles from home. To get home, I disconnected the batteries too many times to count, and bled the HFCM numerous times. Am also seeing the moisture in fuel icon on teh dash light up when it quits, but so far as I can tell there is no moisture in the separate.
2003 F450 6.0, automatic. 150K miles.
My truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
I have a 2006 F150 with about 80k miles. It has a limited slip rear end. Under mild acceleration, "sometimes" there is a muted clunk at about 40-50mph. If I accelerate harder it does not happen. I cannot get it to happen at lower speeds. I cannot tell if its the transmission or rear end.
View 8 RepliesWell it's been an ongoing problem with my 4r100, but last week it all come to a point. Reverse delay is getting to near 10seconds then abruptly engages. My 1-2 shift is so soft I have to look down and see my tach to make sure it shifted up. I now have trans squeal during ever shift including OD. Also have a loud screech that gets louder the faster you go, BUT the old girl is still moving the truck and oddly the fluid isn't burnt looking or smells burnt? That's one has me puzzled...
So Tuesday after work I'm pulling the transmission (in the driveway) and bringing it to the shop Thursday. Getting a billet steel converter, having all the planetary gears upgraded to six and four pinion, one way sprag will now be solid steel instead of the plastic one Ford put there, all the bearings will be upgraded to Torrington, I'll have the 45 roller sprag bearing upgrade as well as the 17 roller for reverse, I'm going with Borg Warner and Kolen steels, new solenoid pack.
I'm having the pump pump machined and sonnex upgrades done to it, spiral snap ring on OD piston, case will be machines not hand resurfaced, reverse gear plastic washers will be removed and the gear is getting machined for a Torrington bearing and steel spacer, clutch drum will be machined for a 360 spiral clip, locking snap ring on the OD piston, center support will have some machine work done to it, and I'm having the forward drum plug removed and the hole will be tapped for a steel plug.
I have a 2006 f150. Both front turn signals do not work. I replaced bulbs still nothing. There back signals do work. They blink really fast.
View 4 RepliesMy sister in law just got into an accident today because her 2006 Explorer hesitates and dies sometimes off the line. Check engine light will come on, and won't go apparently. If she shuts it off and restarts, it will usually work for a little while again. Today, it happened when she took off on a green light, it stalled out and the guy behind her rear ended her. She isn't real happy with her Ford.
View 11 RepliesI have an 06 F150 XLT and lately the map lights blink when starting and driving. This does not occur every time but it sure is a problem when driving at night. What is causing this and hopefully a minor repair.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2006 f150 4x4 v8 ... I get a grinding noise (I think it is coming from the front left of the truck) that lasts only a little while and only comes out after a cold night (so I only get the noise in the morning after the truck has sat overnight)...
The issue details:
1. The grinding noise is constant and the truck has to be moving for it to make the noise
2. The truck will only make the noise while driving forward, it disappears when I drive in reverse
3. The truck has to sit overnight and it has to be cold (below freezing)
4. I only get the noise if I go in reverse BEFORE I drive forward after the truck sat all night
5. Will not make the noise while in 4x46. It has been doing this for about 2 months
What I tried:
1. Replaced both front wheel hubs
2. Replaced 4x4 vacuum and checked the lines for pressure
3. Front brake pads and checked calipers
4. While the truck was making the noise unplugged the 4x4 vacuum - still made the noise
I have another question my front speakers work, they produce vocals and bass. My back speaker only produce bass! NO VOCALS? Why? Is this normal? I only realized this today. I drive a 2006 ford f150 supercab.
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