Ford - F150 :: 2004 - Stalls / Cuts Off And Idles Poorly In Reverse
Dec 12, 2012
I have a 2004 F-150 crewcab, 4.6L with 118,000. I don't drive the truck often but for the past few months its stalls and cuts off, and idles poorly in reverse. Truck cutting off at low RPM's, low speeds, and after going over some bumps. At one point the engine light came on but now it is off and I am still having the issues. . . . not sure what code it would display. I have been reading articles and blogs and most say the TPS, MAF, or IAC is the problem.
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I recently replaced the plugs cuz I had a rough idle all the time. During plug change when I discovered they had already been changed I found one that had a burned off electrode. Does this mean a lean condition exists?
After plug change it runs smoothly but only after 10 min warmup in our canadian winters. I can drive it when its not warm but seems to have less than full power and idles very badly after driving w/o proper warmup.
Next I changed fuel filter and checked fpdm, it was a little rusty but not bad so i just mounted it 1/4 off steel to prevent further rusting.
Since then I have installed a programmer [diablosport] but found no codes since i had battery disconnected for filter change. no new codes in last few weeks since.
So do I have a lean running cylinder causing this poor cold idle or a rich cylinder? It must be a clogged or dripping fuel injector right?
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Today I acquired a 1982 F150 with a 302 engine, 4 brl. Edelbrock carb. The truck starts and idles just fine, but when I come to a stop, try to give it gas to go it dies. It starts right back up, and I have to rev it high a couple of times then put it in gear and it will finally go. When I got it home I let it idle a few minutes and tried playing with the air and fuel mix but don't know what I'm doing, really. It seems I can hear a hiss, and when I was reaching for the air/fuel screws I got a little shock on the hand from the distributor. We want to use this truck as a farm truck, and plan to get a manual for it, but what might I might check for the cause of it stalling.
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I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
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My friend told me for the past year she has been having trouble with her sentra. she has taken it to the dealer & they could not figure out whats going on. So here is what she described to me. '02 nissan sentra exe with 54k miles. when she gets to a stop light/sign and the car is at idle, it stalls. she said it stalls when slowly going in reverse out of her driveway and when she slows down to pull into her driveway. the check engine light has never turned on and the car starts back up again right away. What is going on?
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I have an 04 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 v8 and it has 125k miles on it. This morning I was driving to work and when I was going down the express way it cut out for about 2 seconds then power slowly came back after about 5 seconds, when it happens I'm either cruising or accelerating lightly. Also when it first cuts out, my headlights flicker, and when I got off the expressway and was almost to work the truck stalled completely after I stopped it started up and I was able to get to work.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4l v8...
Codes
P0012 int cam position timing over ret bank 1
P0022 int cam position timing over ret bank 2
P0300 random Missfire detected
P0316 engine misfire detected on start up
P0340 cam position sensor curcuit fault
P0345 cmp sensor a circuit problem bank 2
Starts rough, idles rough and stalls occur often when start, after it runs for 5 minutes and sometimes dint starts at all. I replaced spark plugs, coils, cam shaft sensors and had oil changes done and. No effect.
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My husband's 2004 Silverado truck randomly cuts out and stalls. He has replaced sensors and now the computer and it still randomly "dies". Three different mechanics have looked it over and checked the computer codes and can not figure out what is causing it.
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My F-150 has started acting up again. About 2 months ago it randomly stalled a few times and I narrowed it down to the Fuel pump driver module which was band and I have since replaced. Truck ran fine up until the middle of this past week. Now it runs good at idle, but as soon as I put it into reverse, the engine stalls. I do know that my 4x4 isnt engaging due to a suspect vaccum leak. Could a vacuum leak be causing the stalling as well. The 4x4 not locking in issue predated the stalling issue.
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302 V8. Autolite 2150 carb. Auto-tranny. My vintage Ford truck which I love has developed a problem where it idles too fast for too long after warm-up. What I mean is that it is normal when it works correctly for it to idle fast for a few minutes until it warms up, at which point the idle speed slows down to normal. The way it works when it is working correctly, after a few minutes to warm up, I step on the gas pedal briefly, and the idle speed to kicks down. That's the way it is supposed to work. It seems actually like there are actually three idle speeds when it is working correctly. Fast, not quite as fast, and normal, all accessed via the kick down operation. Working correctly, it takes maybe three minutes to kick down the two steps to the normal idle speed. Does that sound right?
Anyway, the problem is that now it stays at the highest idle speed for 15 minutes. Eventually it kicks down to normal. But the high idle speed is too much for 15 minutes. Plus as it warms up the high idle speed becomes even higher since it doesn't kick down like it should. So it becomes difficult to keep the speed below 25 mph even w/out pressing on the gas pedal. It idles at about 25 mph for 15 minutes as it warms up!
I looked at my Chilton's manual -- better than nothing, but barely -- and it mentions something about a vacuum choke kickdown, a heat riser gadget, and the auto-choke. How to test each one to find what the problem is?
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I have a problem. My 2007 ford f150 4x4 5.4 triton engine starts to flutter and stalls when its in reverse, engine is warm, and I am backing up a trailer with about 5,000 lbs on it. It drives fine with or without towing. I did notice it does it with nothing behind it on occasion. Whats causing this?
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My truck has about 100,000mi and has had all the scheduled maintenance.
My 2006 5.4 engine cuts out under medium acceleration when accelerating from a stop. Happens when warm or cold. Works fine under light acceleration. Cut out happens before it shifts into second. Cuts out just for a second, then resumes. Stumbles twice under heavy acceleration. Very repeatable.
I noticed the gas was low - above E but below 1/4. So I filled up at the gas station. The problem went away. I had this issue with a 1980s fuel injected VW - it would get a vacuum lock on the gas tank. But with this truck I did not notice and inrush of air when I took the gas cap off.
I suppose it could be the gasoline sloshing towards the rear of the tank, away from the fuel inlet pickup.
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Once I had driven for about 15 minutes and the truck set for about 5 minutes. Then it would not start. Another time, I drove for about 20 minutes and it cut off while driving in a parking lot. I have had 2 different shops take a look at it and they cannot duplicate the problem. They have run a bunch of diagnostics and tried their selves but it always starts for them.
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My 88 F150 (300 six, 5 speed, dual tanks, 176,000 miles). The truck has the low pressure fuel pumps in the tanks and the high pressure pump on the frame rail setup. Truck starts fine, but cuts out severely under acceleration for the first 30 seconds of driving. After that I only notice the problem when applying a lot of throttle (does not cut out under gradual acceleration) or climbing steeper hills. If I kill it for a few minutes and then take off again the problem is back for the first 30 seconds or so. I have replaced all the tune-up type stuff (all filters, plugs & wires, dist. cap & rotor, ignition coil, o2 sensor, cleaned throttle body, replaced IAC valve, numerous sensors). Timing is dead on at 10 deg. BTDC with SPOUT unplugged. My FPR was bad so I also replaced that. Condition exists regardless of which fuel tank I am using (no problems with tank selector).
Getting no KOEO codes, but getting KOER code 41 and plugs do seem to show a lean condition possibly. I'm still averaging around 16 MPG since this became a real problem about 3 months ago.
I removed the bowl from the reservoir between the tanks and the high pressure pump on the frame. No filter in there, but it was clean with no gunk or sediment found. I removed the line from the inlet side of the high pressure pump and found that while cranking the engine I have fuel flowing freely (same amount of flow regardless of which tank I've switched to). The flow was steady, but not extremely strong. If I understand right the in-tank pumps are not designed to provide much pressure? Below is what I found at the schrader valve:
key on, engine off - high pressure pumps runs for about 1 second, brings gauge up to 48 psi
idle, FPR connected - 40 psi
idle FPR disconnected - 52 psi
revving throttle with FPR connected - 46 psi maximum
Connector, where fuel pump relay plugs in, seems to be clean and not corroded at all.
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Have and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
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2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
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I have 234,000 miles on the car, it runs well. starting to have idling problems, if I don't let the car warm up for ten or more minutes it cuts off. The power steering belt is making noise, the dash board is cracked from the sun other then these two issues it runs great. Should I repair these things or should I start looking for a new car?
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I recently purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl. engine. The first 10 days I owned it it ran just fine. I then took a an hour drive to another city. After the first few stops there, as the temperature outside reached about 90, It started to sputter and idle very badly. After I got rolling it would would run fine. I decided to try to make it home. It ran fine at freeway speeds of about 70 mph. I had to stop once; it stalled out and would not start again. After waiting about ten minutes I tried again. It was still running rough, but I was able to get rolling and drove the rest of the way home without any problems until I was in town and had difficulty keeping it running at idle.
The next morning it ran fine again. A local mechanic changed the fuel filter, but the problem came back as soon as the temp neared 90 degrees. A mechanic friend who witnessed the problem said that it definitely sounded like a lack of fuel and not an electrical problem. Is there a way to troubleshoot without swapping parts? If the fuel pump is failing in warm weather, how is it possible that it runs fine at 70 mph, but not at idle? Engine temp gauge looks good. I did get one code after it died the first time (lean mixture, I think he said).
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I'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
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I just bought a 1991 F150 with a 302 (5.0). It idles at around 2600-2800 RPMs. The previous owners replaced the TPS and IAC, but it still idles fast. Ford dealership told them it was a vacuum leak. Are all the vacuum lines close to each other? How easy is it to locate/fix the problem?
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When I turn-on AC or defroster, motor idles rough then stalls. My mechanic says it is not related to CHECK ENGINE light or exhaust O2 sensor? I have an 02 Ford Explorer.
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