Ford - F150 :: 2003 SuperCrew - CEL On / Lower O2 Sensor Replacement
Jun 2, 2015
I have a 2003 F150 SuperCrew with 180k. Has been a great truck. Last fall the check engine light came on, and I took it to Advance Auto and they said to replace the lower O2 sensor. Did that and light stays on. Ever since then, and getting worse, is when I crank truck, it idles very rough, and if it sits too long it will just "choke itself out" and quit. Recently this has happened while driving on road too. I have to shift the gearshift to N to crank it. I get power but no crank if I try it in P.
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Replacing lower control arms? I've read a couple places that you don't need a spring compressor. Anything else to look out for? 2000 F150 4.6L 2WD 288,000 miles....
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I'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
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I have recently replaced both tie rod ends and found out when I took my truck for an alignment the mechanic stated that I had bad driver side ball joints (upper & lower) I confirmed this with SEARS and they stated that it was all the ball joints upper & lowers! the Haynes repair manual (1999-2010) states "ball joints on 1999 through 2013 2WD models were not replaceable".
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I own a 2003 F-150 4.2 engine 2 wheel drive extended cab. I need finding an easier way to get at the O2 sensor connector on bank #2. I am having a trouble code of P0171 and want to check the sensor to see if it is working...
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Well, I decided to take on the dreaded task of replacing the lower manifold intake gaskets and put in new isolator bolts. It was a major undertaking, and when I finally finished the oil change and fired up the car, it sounded fine. Then I checked under the hood.
I saw coolant spurting out the side of one of the hose connections that I had to take off and put back on. I thought the gasket on it looked pretty worn, but wasn't expecting this!
Unfortunately I don't know the name of the hose connection to pick up a gasket at the store ... it's the larger lower hose that is bolted on to the lower intake, not the hose slightly above it that has the plastic clips.
What is the name of this hose connection so I can try and find one at the store? It's a 2003 Windstar model.
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Ford catalog does not list the TPS for a 1999 7.3 Super Duty as a separate replaceable part which leads to replacing the whole throttle pedal assembly. I found this to be incorrect. If you have a throttle pedal assembly with separate TPS (separate 3 wire connector) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch 2 wire connector) just the TPS can be replaced.
This is a pic of my 99 with new TPS installed : [URL] .....
Without removing the whole assembly you only need to remove the 2 T25 screws and the connector to replace.
Since this part is listed for more then 20 Ford trucks I figured it would work in my 99 7.3. I bought a brand new TPS from Pete (F250_) that he could not use. He has a 2002 with one 5 wire connector. It works perfectly in my 99. Not sure if it will work in a 2000 or 2001 but if the TPS and IVS each have their own connector it should. Make a visual inspection to be sure.
Part DY-967 or F4SZ-9B989-AA - Potentiometer
I was going to go with a Dorman TPS but like PartsGuyED likes to say "OEM Baby". The OEM TPS through Ed is actually cheaper then the Dorman.
Side-by-side pic of the old and new TPS. Only the center rotating part is different but it fits and works just fine. It also has a better fit so there is less slop and almost immediate response.
NewOldTPS.jpg?t=1269362105
By the way, the original TPS was working fine so I have no idea what the symptoms of a bad TPS are. Since it was available I replaced it to have a spare and to see if this one would work. Both Pete and I thought it would and we were right.
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Looking for the Ford (or even Dorman) part number for the Water-in-Fuel sensor that bolts to the outside of the fuel bowl?
Guzzle has it pictured here:
The water sensor tip on mine is badly corroded and eaten away.
What's a part number and who sells them that I can get it delivered next day?
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Recently, I was stopped in my 03 F-150 with 124,000 miles. All of the sudden one day, the engine started knocking. The knocking was coming from lower in the engine. After sitting for about two hours, I started it again. At first, no knocking, then intermittent knocking, then steady and after about 3 or 4 min, the knocking stops all together. Oil level has always been checked and it has never run low on oil. What on earth causes an intermittent knock?
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I have been fixing up my 77 F150 since I got it in January and it's really starting to look nice! I love this truck, but I have noticed a clunk sound when I put it in reverse and also a same if not similar sound when I'm driving and slow down. It makes a clunk sound when it shifts to a lower gear, (automatic). Now, I was thinking it was a U joint at some point and crawled under there and started to grab them and see if there was any play in any of the spots but found no play. I checked it a few times, thinking well it could be just the point the U joint stopped and that would explain no play but after a few times of crawling under I still never found any.
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8t(B5.5) and I need to change my engine coolant temperature sensor. I have search and found conflicting answers on the forums as far as it location and description. From what I can see it is located near the bottom right hand corner of the radiator(Driver Side). I have removed the sensor and I did see some antifreeze spill out. I examined the sensor and it is blue in color with a rounded top. I called my local auto zone and received a replacement part but it is green and looks a little different.
I understand that the blue one that I removed is no longer produced. My question is is this the right sensor and the right location? All the write ups I can find say that it is located in the back of the engine yet I cannot find one there. Also when I replaced the blue senor with the green one the fan on my car is spinning at high speed(the AC fan) and will not idle. I am wondering if the new sensor is faulty/ incorrect or if i simply replaced the wrong sensor.
Here is a link to the replacement part I used : [URL] .....
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I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
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1997 F150, V6, 4.2L. Replacing the O2 sensor, driver's side before the converter. I've tried using the O2 sensor socket (I have a full set) and it keeps slipping off. Afraid I'll "round" the sensor even more. I've tried heating it up, penetrating oil and it's not budging at all.
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So I was wondering where the O2 sensors are on the 04 f150s and if I could cut the rear set of cats out without throwing off those sensors?
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I have an 06 F150 2wd that needs both lower ball joints. I've done searches and everyone keeps talking about a big freaking hammer. Can't you just use a ball joint press kit to remove and reinstall these? If no I'm gonna find someone to put them in for me because Im scared of breaking the aluminum control arm. There was also some talk of using some sorta glue on the joints as well.
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I just got a brand new 2008 F150 supercrew FX2 last wed. I love it, it's my first truck ever and I'm excited to drive it. I wanted to change the exhaust to something that has a low rumble and is deep, not too loud or anything.
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I have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
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Have 1994 F150 with 5.0L engine. Check engine light, intermittent on due to overheated O2 sensor. Replace sensor, light goes off. The sensor will last longer in cold weather but will fail with same code. Is the overheating due to an electrical problem from the ECU or ambient tempreture. Would like to sell truck but don't want to hand the buyer a dozen O2 sensors.
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I have a 1999 Ford f150 4.6L automatic. My check engine light had been on for awhile so I dug out my DTC code reader erased it, came back on 10-15 minutes later. I got the code P1131 sensor indicates lean which you would think is the O2 sensor a week later it won't start. Then randomly a couple days later it starts then that night it didn't. Hear is the parts that confused me. I don't believe an oxygen sensor would cause it not to start, it's cranking nice just won't turn over. And when you get the code P1131 I believe it bay 1 where the readings are off Well here's my readings.
Fuel system 1 CL-FaultCalc load 34.1%ECT 201.2 FSTFT B1 -1.6%LTFT B1 0.0 %STFT B2 -1.6%LEFT B2 0.0%ENG RPM 1101VEH SPEED 27 MPH
It looks like to me bay 1 and 2 are off? I'm not mechanically challenged, but not a mechanic either, I do most my own work on my vehicles..
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I have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 V8. How many cam shaft position sensor do I have ??? I replaced one but I swear I see one one the passenger side...
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How do you replace the rear axle seal in a 1995 F150?
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