About 3 weeks ago my truck decided not to start after having driven many miles. It has happened again after a day of driving with multiple stops. It cranks but doesn't turn over. Mechanic could find no code errors, there is no service engine light. Problem?
View 9 Replies2002 Camaro SS. Been sitting in my garage and I have not started it for 2 months (I know, not smart). So I started it yesterday, it ran for about 20 seconds then just died and I cannot get it to restart. Battery is fully charged, it turns over, I can hear the injectors seemingly shoot fuel when I just turn the key into accessory mode, but when I try to start it, it just cranks like it's out of gas and never even gives the slightest hint of trying to turn over completely. There is a 1/4 tank gas, that is at least 2 years old in the car. Also, when it started the first time a ton of black stuff came out of the tail pipes.
Bad gas? Fuel pump? Not sure which path to go down first.
My '02 Explorer transmission is giving me a little trouble. The vehicle has 240,000 miles, but the transmission has been rebuilt several miles ago. I recently had the fluid changed, and I had them add a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix, which I have had good luck with in the past. Most of the time, the transmission behaves normally.
Occasionally however, when I come to a stop after driving for a while, the transmission stops pulling, like it has shifted into neutral. Sometimes it will re-engage after a couple seconds, and sometimes I try to hurry it along by shifting to Park, then back to Drive and it will go. If I am on an incline, and the vehicle does this, it will actually roll down the hill.
Hopefully there is a simple fix because this thing is too close to the end of its life to require a hefty repair investment! Maybe a switch or a sensor. I'd love to tell you that I checked the fluid level, but Ford forgot to put a transmission dipstick on it.....
I have a 2002 F150. Small V6 regular cab 8 foot bed 2 wheel drive.In the last couple of months it has developed a rhythmic shake that is more like driving over a bump. It is really quite similar to driving on a road where all the release joints have been recently tarred so you go over a slight bump every second or two. I actually tried to convince myself that is what it was for about a week. Seems to be coming from the front driver seat.I previously lived in Mexico and the pot holes there would occasionally shear the bolts right at the lug nuts. Not too different than a car that was damaged like that, but I checked the lug nuts and it seems ok.The bump does not transfer into the steering wheel.Being a 14 year old ford the motor doesn't idle as smooth as my wife's new Toyota, but not bad either. If I let off the gas the bump doesn't stop. I haven't changed into neutral while it is running to see if that stops it.Tie rod?Axle? What to check or if there is a picture of something I could post that might tell you what is wrong?Planned on a camping trip this weekend with my wife. She is going to be ticked if we have to cancel.
View 5 RepliesThe truck is a 2002 F450 7.3 diesel with about 120k Miles.
While driving from 45-70Mph the truck engine stops for about 1 second and starts back up by itself. I thought the problem was the cps so I replaced it with a ford CPS. Today the problem still persists. The truck engine turns off and comes back on, the tach drops to 0 rpm and so does the speed.
The Check Engine Light comes on and so does the water in fuel light and so does the Check Gage light. After I turn off the truck and start it back up the truck does not show the lights.
I believe I found the issue, but can't look into it today. While I was moving some of the wires on the truck I found out that if I move the red/black bunch just a little bit the truck shuts off and comes back on when i let it go.
I have a 2005 Ford F150. The engine sometimes quits when I slow down to stop for a stop sign or slow down to make a turn. I shift into neutral and it starts up and I am on my way again. This is an intermittent problem. Of course, it has never done this for a mechanic. It will happen 6 or 7 times in one day, and then won't fail for 2 or 3 days. The Ford dealership has replaced the air flow sensor. Did not work. They now think it is the throttle body that should be replaced. I am reluctant to replace this as they are not getting any codes from the computer telling them it is failing. They are not getting any codes related to this issue at all.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius that financed from a small dealer last year. Currently has over 140k miles on it. When I bought it it had the Red Triangle and it worked fine until recently (about 2 months ago). Recently I've been having some problems. When I go at higher speeds I get the following sings come on:
1. Red Triangle
3. Orange check engine light
2. Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3. Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light
4. Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
When these lights are on, my AC stops blowing cold air. Sometimes when all these lights are on, the car will slow down and will not let me go past 37 MPH I have to then pull over turn the car off and then on, then the lights turn off and I can drive normal, on short trips that is.
Recently on a longer trip over 50 miles or so all the lights I mentioned came on plus the red break light on the left turned on with a continuous beep. We pulled off the HWY and turned the car off then on and the lights disappeared except for the big red Triangle that one is always on. We continued driving it but it kept doing it so we had to let it rest for over 30 minutes. We had to take it really slow and we finally got to our destination.
Codes P08A3 and P0A37 Prius 2005....
So I have a 03 f250 6.0 with 285,000 miles, when I shut the truck off and let it sit for like 20 mins and go to restart it, it cranks then just stops and I hear what I think to be the starter still turning till I let off the key. It'll do this for a while sometimes. So what do y'all think it could be? P.s I know it's very bad for the truck, but I have ran out of fuel about 9 times on the stock pump because my fuel gauge is off, and after the most recent breakdown is about the time it started.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 200K on it and have noticed that the steering feels very stiff while driving and turning. I have checked the fluid, air pressure on tires and that is fine.
View 5 RepliesSearch of AF did not turn up any results. My 02 Silverado 4x4 Crew Cab 6.0 has begun to make a clicking noise when I am driving at low speed, and making any kind of turn to the right. This is in 2 wheel drive. No noise when driving straight. If I am driving through the neighborhood , (say, 20-25 mph), and the road curves gently to the right, I can hear an occasional/intermittent click noise, which sounds like it is coming from the LF wheel. It might give a single click every half second or so, sometimes 2 or 3 quick clicks, then silent for a second or 2, then a few more. If it is more heavily loaded, such as sharper turn, or more speed while turning, it is significantly worse, (more frequent clicks, almost constant).
Likewise, if I am at low speed, and turning more sharply, (such as a 90* right turn at an intersection, from a stop), it is almost constant repeat clicking until the wheel is straightened out. I am guessing it is possibly a u-joint on the left side half-shaft (or whatever it is called), that connects the transfer case to the LF hub? Almost sounds like needle bearings beginning to fail, is the best way I can think of to describe the sound. Even though I am in 2wd, the hubs do not unlock, so the front axles are always turning.
Hoping it is not front hub bearing going bad. I just got reassigned back to Dallas, and I will be driving the truck 800 miles to get there this weekend. I have maintained the truck very well, with the exception of having never even really looked at the front driveline components. (That ignorance could be haunting me now, or maybe just stuff that has worn out).
I only use the 4 wheel drive about 6-10 times per year, usually only for a mile or so to get to maintained roads. Never in 4x4 on dry roads, I switch back to 2WD as soon as possible.
2010 f150; intermittently the key turns fully without turning the engine on. Still under warrenty, been to shop twice, cant find anything wrong and service people have no clue. new battery, no codes. Occurs usually after the truck has run never when sat idle for a period. Start after a while can be 1 min to 2h.
View 12 RepliesToday I acquired a 1982 F150 with a 302 engine, 4 brl. Edelbrock carb. The truck starts and idles just fine, but when I come to a stop, try to give it gas to go it dies. It starts right back up, and I have to rev it high a couple of times then put it in gear and it will finally go. When I got it home I let it idle a few minutes and tried playing with the air and fuel mix but don't know what I'm doing, really. It seems I can hear a hiss, and when I was reaching for the air/fuel screws I got a little shock on the hand from the distributor. We want to use this truck as a farm truck, and plan to get a manual for it, but what might I might check for the cause of it stalling.
View 1 RepliesRecently bought a 91 f250 4x4 460 turned the air on and after a few min running the ac unit clicks. The front of the unit stops turning and makes a clicking sound. Then starts to spin again. Air blows kinda cold....
View 10 RepliesHappened two times already if i press gas when turning 90 degrees. My engine stops and i have to start car again, why could this be happening?
I got misfire cylinder 4 and 6 perhaps its related however i am trying to understand dynamics of things why engine only stops under this conditions?
The car basically struggles to crank. Today it failed to completely start. It took multiple tries at turning the key to get it kick and each time the car would chug until it started.
About a month ago, the dealership said she needed a new battery when she took her car in for an oil change. They told her at that time that they found the car to take longer than normal to crank and wanted to charge $80 for a battery, sale price (normally $150 at dealership). She declined at the time.
When I used the car since then it cranked fine, about a good 3-4 seconds. We had the battery tested at discount auto and they found the battery to work fine and out-put more than enough cranking amps.
Last week she was away for a few days and had the car sit untouched. But when she came back she went on a small 100+mile road trip with the car and it ran fine. And when she came back from that, she took the car to do some errands around town. Today, the car took much longer than usual to fully start.
I don't think it's the battery. Possibly something with ignition. Engine turns over, so it is getting adequate power from the battery to the starter. Engine doesn't misfire. No engine-lights on the dashboard, nothing.
2011 Sonata 2.4L
Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
View 3 RepliesThis has happened twice in 3 years....I get regular service from a Ford dealer and am overdue.... I think it may be temp related. Has been below freezing the last few nights. Truck was parked on an incline during the last two "shutdowns" ( engine lower than bed slightly), I drifted to a level position and it started. This has only happened twice previously. Now it seems to be a permanent problem but I am unable to get to the dealer without a tow... which I am trying to avoid.
View 2 RepliesI cannot figure out the interior lights by using the dimmer switch. Starting the vehicle and then trying to turn on either passenger or driver front dome light will not work. I continuously depress the right side of the dimmer switch it will turn on the REAR dome light and by depressing again it will shut off the REAR dome light. I can push either light in the front and it will not turn on. Once driving down the road and reaching a decent speed (40+) I can push the buttons and it will turn on and off by simply pushing the light. The buttons you use to turn on either light up front actually feels different---it easily "clicks" the light on.
View 2 RepliesHave and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
In the summer I have a habit of switching off the air conditioner every time I pull away from a stop, then turn it back on after I get up to speed again. Because the engine needs the most power when pulling away from stops, I have the impression that this saves fuel. Is this necessary?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 7.3 ltd X with the 4r100 transmission. The trans shifts fine until it get over 160 deg (glow shift gauge in test port) Then the OD stops working and get no engine braking until I turn off the OD. when od is turned off, appears to shift OK. When the trans temp gets below 150, I get the OD back. The OD light did flash on 2 occasions but no code while engine on and light flashing but OD was working at the time. after shutting off engine and restarting light stopped. New fluid and filter, torque convert was flushed also and X has larger 6.0 trans cooler. Tran did get hot once while towing 4 ton trailer 240 f, thus bigger cooler. what would cause the OD to go out when above 160 f but come back when cool?
View 7 Replies