My f150 looses power and sputters when it warms up. Let it cool off and it runs great until it warms up again. Check engine light comes on every now and then but not every time.
View 12 Replies1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
1995 Suburban loses power when its warm and backfires through the throttle body when floored..
View 6 RepliesI was wondering if fuel injectors throw a code when it goes out. I have a 02 7.3 been running rough when you accelerate bogs down and looses power not sure but sometimes gas light would come on knowing I have gas in it could that be a sign of the sending unite and that's why it runs rough..
View 3 RepliesWe have a Galant with approximately 76,000 miles. Lately, we have noticed that when it rains the car sputters and accelerates really slowly up to 30 mph. Once we get to 30, it acts normal. Sometimes if we turn the car off and then start it again, this problem goes away. My guess is it is something with the computer.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. When driving on a hill, the truck cuts back and looses power. I can press the pedal and go into passing gear and it will pick up speed but that is the only way the speed will increase and not slow down. The truck jerks when this happens.
Things I have tried:
Replace all plugs and wires
Replaced Coil Pack
Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced throttle cable
Took truck out of overdrive
Changed to better grade of gas
Changed oil
I had Cat. Converter checked
There are no codes showing. Truck may drive OK on one trip but act up on the return. It seems to use a lot more gas when it is acting up. I now have run out of options that I know about.
So, I have a 4.9l 1995 F150 equipped with the E4OD trans. Lately, noticed over the last two or three days, the vehicle does not want to accelerate under WOT. I can hear the RPMs of the engine increasing, but the vehicle speed will remain the same; it will do this in any gear.
I checked my fluid color and level in the trans, and all was in fine. There was no discoloration or odor, nor was the fluid low at all. I'm wondering if this is a torque convertor issue, or a problem with the clutches slipping.
Mind you, my truck just hit 70k, so this isn't a high mileage vehicle. Under light load, or throttle, the vehicle will shift fine through all gears. However, if I try to accelerate heavily, or go WOT, I get nowhere. It feels like slipping.
Someone recommended that I pull codes; they are as follows:
KOEO 33--EGR did not open
Continuous 28--VAT sensor out of range
Engine Running 63--TPS too low
26--MAF or VAF out of range
32--EVP/EGR not responding during test
My plans are to check for codes again, fluid and filter change, and then see what is going on. Would an 8 hour road-trip at close to 80mph have caused this, because after getting back I noticed this problem.
After truck gets warm it won't restart.
View 5 RepliesSo, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
View 8 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat with the 4.6 v8 and my engine had a piston slap so I replaced the engine with a used one and I put a new water pump on the engine. My problem is the heater does not get hot and it only gets warm when I get on the freeway and the rpms stay steady for a bit. but when i idle it just blows cool air. the heat door works cause I can turn it to cold air when I'm on the freeway and i just replaced the thermostat so I don't believe its that. It weird because the heater worked fine before I changed out the engine so i cant figure it out. the only thing i can think of is the water pump is bad out of the box. Could it be the belt or does spacing on the water pump have something to do with it. nothing is leaking.
View 7 RepliesHaving problems with the A/C on F150 2006 or newer. It blows warm air while idling. I have taken mine to 2 different dealerships had Ford engineers down and no one can seem to find the problem. I love Ford vehicles but I can't handle this in the these hot summers.
View 10 RepliesMy 95 f150 stalls in reverse. It goes fine forward and idles fine in reverse but if I give it quite a bit of gas it starts stalling. We've put a new mlps and that didn't fix it. Then they thought it was the convertor so I got the trans rebuilt and still no change. I'm about to pull my hair out over this deal. I don't even have enough power to back up a trailer or back up a hill.
View 11 RepliesHere's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
View 3 RepliesHow often should my A/C clutch be cycling when the compressor is being used. (i.e defrost, mix, a/c and max a/c). My clutch never cycles, it starts spinning when I turn something on and it does not shut off until I shut off the a/c. The truck is a 95 F-150 4.9L 5 speed...
View 14 Replies1999 F150, 4.2L v6, 180K miles, 2WD. Trans is flaring (slipping) in first when warm and was told the pump is leaking too. This truck has easy use (no big towing or hard use) and when it did it the second time, we parked it. I do not want to have anything fail and really damage things inside. We dropped the pan and changed the filter and filled it with fresh Motorcraft fluid. No change.
View 5 RepliesAll the brake lights and master lights are on, and it seems to drive fine then at a stop light i start to move and it jerks a bit then looses almost all power it will still drive but barely and it has high RPM'S then I pull over and restart the car and it goes away for about another 10 to 20 miles. DTC codes are fuel to air meetering, replace hybrid battery pack, and block 11 becomes weak, do you think this might be caused by a bad skid control ECU?
View 2 RepliesMy husband and I just recently (probably a little over a month ago) received a 1998 Isuzu Amigo 2.2 5 speed from a friend as a gift. We had some issues with it and discovered the spark plug wires were in the wrong order on the coil pack. We fixed this and the car ran great for about a day then started bogging down and eventually wouldn't start at all. We discovered at this point that there was a blown head gasket so we took apart the head sanded it down, cleaned everything replaced all the gaskets when putting it back together. We also found at the same time that the timing was off so we fixed that as well. After putting everything back together the car ran awesome for about 2 1/2 days and now when we go to drive it we turn it on it idles fine no issues but when we go to drive it once we put it into gear and press the gas sometimes we have power and sometimes there is no power. It comes and goes and when it is there it runs great but then we loose power again. We have tried replacing carburetor cleaning all the parts and spark plugs rechecking the torque on bolts on the head and nothing seems to work. And now there is a clicking noise coming from what seems like the exhaust side of the motor.
View 7 RepliesI have the above vechicle with a straight six engine and with 100,000+ miles and have a problem that has been ongoing for sometime and am totally confused as to what to do. The pickup starts great in the morning and idles fine. No roughness during accelleration or anything while idling. I take my daughter to the bus stop and seems to be running fine. When I drop her off and drive for a short while the engine gives a bucking kind of sensation. This happens at the low end of the "Normal" range of the temperature gauge and apparent when driving around 40 - 45 mph. I think that it may slightly be running a bit rough at freeway speeds but I cannot for sure tell (Idaho roads are not the smoothest. ha). When the engine gets warmer it doesn't seem to be happening.
What could be causing this? I gave it a tune up before (OEM plugs, wires, rotor, cap) and it still happend. I made sure everything was even Motorcraft to see if that had anything to do with it! My nephew replaced the hoses at the top of the engine (I think they are return hoses) because they were bad but still having problems.
I think my E4OD in my 95 f150 is slipping in 4th gear. Just started the last couple of days, the engine rpms stay steady but the speedometer bounces around 3 to 5 mph. Thinking rebuild of the trans....
View 7 RepliesHow do you replace the rear axle seal in a 1995 F150?
View 14 RepliesAfter replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
View 13 Replies