Ford - F150 :: 1994 - CEL Came On For Around A Minute When Cruising Down Highway
Jan 22, 2012
I got a funny shifting issues that happens infrequently that I can no figure out. It happens after driving the car for a while on the highway, but not every time, and not just on the highway.
Here is my problem... when cruising down the highway the check engine light will come on stay on for a around a minute, the the check engine light will turn off, then of which my truck will lose power, not accelerate no matter how much I stomp on the gas, until my speed drops to under 55mph.
Once I get down to 55mph the truck will drop 2 gears into 3rd gear and then I can accelerate back up to speed. This will repeat every few miles. The computer will not store the check engine code, so no codes are pulled.
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I did a C6 swap on my '94 F150 4x4 recently to replace the M5OD the previous owner burned up. Just to check on things I hooked a brand new autometer trans temp gauge up to check out the temps. What I'm worried about is that on the highway (60-70 mph) it climbs up to 210*.
This was at night at about 75* outside temp. I know the C6 doesn't have a lockup converter, but these temps seem kind of high. It's not a heavy truck, not towing anything and I'm running stock sized 235's with 3.08 gearing.
For now I'm just using the internal radiator trans cooler, but I have a large factory bolt on cooler from an F350 of the same year that I plan on putting on. I have the gauge sender in the drivers side test port just in front of the shift linkage. I'm also running a deep pan that adds 2 quarts to the system.
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97 Ford F150 4.6 V8 230+ thousand miles. Driving this morning, the ABS light came on and started blinking then the blinking stoped for a minute but the light stayed on. It did this several times untill reaching the destination. The brakes worked properly the whole time. Started the truck after shutting it down and the ABS light stayed on and the shifter would not come out of Park. What could be causing the light to blink and is the shifter not moving related to the light?
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My car (1994 TBird, LX) has an intermittent problem where the rpm's surge while I'm cruising down the freeway. I've noticed that it happens more often on an incline, and it also happens more during rush hour when I have to frequently slow down and the accelerate again.
If I had to guess, I think it's the TCC Solenoid that's the issue. Would replacing this likely solve the problem? Or would I be better served having my mechanic unplug it? My car is giving error codes to replace the camshaft position sensor (related?), and while important, I need to address the rpm issue first as it's getting progressively worse. Tranny fluid is clean, although I've only owned the car for 2 months so I don't know when it was last replaced.
I can't afford a huge repair, but I have a certified mechanic who's always done right by me, but he's not the best at diagnosis. I'd feel better if I could whittle down the issues and then just tell him what to fix.
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
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OK,it's a Taurus but it's the 3.0 Vulcan.On the highway crusing easy,now and then I'll get a stumble.It's like the key is turned off and back on.The tach stays steady but the car stumbles like the key was cycled quickly.I had to put a fuel pump in it a few weeks ago and now it is starting every time but this stumble has me stumped.
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As the title says the beast died on me yesterday morning going into work.
Situation : 5 F @ 7 Am
1/4 tank of fuel that has been treated
cruising at 70 MPH on the highway using the cruise
Going into work the other day the truck died on me as i cruised along at 70 MPH on cruise, I go to get out of the way of a car. As, I step on the accelerator X falls on its face. I look at the dash and there are no idiot lights on, gauges all look good. I navigate to the shoulder 3 lanes over and park it. As soon as it is in park it dies and will not restart.
I call AAA and sit there waiting for the truck to show up. After about 10 mins I try to start it again it stumbles and dies. 2nd try it fires up and is running rough. I make it to the nearest gas station and fill up. Then I go to the parts store and pick up the 911 fuel treatment and put it in the tank. I also use a scan tool on it and no codes. Truck ran fine after all this.
I go to start it after work, it starts and dies. I start it again and it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders and there is a large puff of smoke out the exhaust which goes away after it is started.
After it warms up it runs and drives fine, no issues! So I looked at my extension cord I plug it into and realize that the timer was bad. New timer and verify it works. Go to start it today and it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Is it possible that the fuel gelled up due to the timer being bad and the block heater not turning on? Or am I missing something?
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
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Noticed my 2002 F150 had a very slight vibration in the seat / steering wheel when cruising down the highway at 60 MPH.. Very slight, but was not there 2 weeks ago.. It seem to get a little worst as the 2 weeks progressed. Got all 4 tires balanced and rotated... no luck...Took both rear wheels off-- no problems with tires -- checked bearing clearance-- pushed and twisted on driveshaft yolk to check pinion bearing... nothing found......... last resort was drop back end of driveshaft and check U-joint.. It was tight and dry. Put drive shaft in 12 ton press and pushed out the u-joint bearings. Very dry and joint pins were starting to spall....... I mention this because I had checked " clearance" and "slop" and had "no noise" before removal... Truck has 139K miles on original u-joints .......... Something to keep in mind. Eventually it would have worn to the point that it was obvious, but in the first stages of failure, you just get small symptoms.
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Experience a lurch during slowish highway cruising? If I am just putting along with my foot barely on the gas sometimes the car will give a jerk or a lurch like it's trying to decide whether or not to go fast or stall. Just a really quick bit of feeback that makes me think...what was that? Here are some common elements:
-Only happens when cruising at relatively gentle speeds (100km/hr or 55mph)
-Seems to happen more often if it's windy? Has happened a few times when passing by semi trailers
-Seems to happen more frequently when there is snow on the road or blowing snow?
Could it be some sort of sensor or air filter problem? No codes have been thrown.
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I'm experiencing a serious problem with the tranny on my V10 TDI: When the engine's warmed up it sometimes starts slipping and generally keeps on slipping, even when cruising on the highway, until the engine is cooled off again. In thread [URL] .... I read something about a "faulty solenoid valve inside the tranny". Could this be the cause?
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So I've owned my 04 Passat for almost 3-4 months now, I have a 1.8T 4Motion w/ 5speed, and love it. It will certainly be nice in the winter time with the snow and cold here in North Dakota.
I was driving on one of the state highways, and was cruising at about 65mph, when the power cut out, and giving gas didn't do anything and I eventually came to a stop. I let the car sit for a minute, tried starting and could tell that the engine was trying to turn over but wouldn't. This has happened before with my jetta, and its always been because of water in the fuel lines during a heavy rain, so I had my roommate come give me some more gas to see if we could just run the water out of the system since it had been raining pretty heavily here lately. Still no joy on getting started, occasionally the engine would turn over, RPM's would get up to about 1100-1200, and then instead of stabilizing at idle, the engine would just cut out again right away.
Got a tow from my insurance company to a local auto service shop who took a look at it and got a code saying the speed sensor wasn't working. They allegedly took it apart last night and fixed the speed sensor, had a loose wire, but it still won't start up. They've narrowed it down to the crankshaft sensor, or the entire ECU module being shot. I'll know by tomorrow if the crankshaft sensor is in fact the case.
If it isn't the crankshaft sensor, then is it definitely an issue with the ECU? Would it be worth to get an ECU pre-chipped(APR seems to be the way to go), and have that installed instead of a stock unit? Is it even possible to get a chip from these guys that comes already chipped, or would I need to get a new ECU first and then get it modded.
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My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
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The Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
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I have a 2013 Golf R Apr stage 2+ with about 74k on the odo. I have been stage 2 for about 5k and was stage 1 for about 20k before going stage 2. Changed my plugs and coils at stage 2 as well. So was driving on the highway at about 60 just cruising when all of a sudden there was a minor hiccup in the car and then pushed the gas pedal and nothing, RPMs started falling and then car shut off, put the clutch in and coasted to the side of the road. Tried to restart and it would not.
I have power and car tries to start but won't catch and turn over. Towed it back to a buddies shop and let it sit overnight, still won't start. started poking around. Checked Hpfp and everything seems fine, cam follower and cam are good. Noticed that when I open my drivers door now I don't hear the other fuel pump prime like it usually does and after putting hpfp back on and opening drivers door a couple times we checked the Schrader valve on the hpfp and no fuel came out like it usually would. Have it narrowed down to most likely culprits; Faulty in tank fuel pump, faulty fuel pump control module, faulty fuel pump relay.
Btw just thought of this, no check engine light ever came on, also don't have a way to pull codes.
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Cruising down the highway, my 2001 Santa Fe engine suddenly cut out. Would crank, but not fire. Not hearing a sound from the back when I flipped on the key, suspected the fuel pump, which I replaced. No go.
I'd pressed the fuel pump reset switch under the hood - checked it again. Should the switch, when it's pressed, stay in a locked position, like when you do a reset on a GFCI electrical outlet? Or is it normal for it to have the up/down 'play' in it?
Also noticed a strange buzzing on the other side of the engine compartment -- was the unit (don't know what it's called) that the throttle cable feeds into - hooks onto a pulley. The buzzing was intermittent and inconsistent, but it was happening with just the power switch on.
Oh, and did replace the fuel pump fuse, too. While it's at 280.000 miles, not quite ready to give up on 'er yet!
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I have a 94 f150 with the 351 and i was wondering how loud it would be with that huge stock muffler cut off and jsut the two cats still in place. I heard the cats will still quite it down a little bit cuz I don't want anything obnoxiously loud...
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Our FWD Santa Fe Limited had a very noticeable vibration that started around 60mph. Oddly, the vibration will sometimes come and go while cruising at a constant speed on the highway. We went about 30k miles before we had time to get it into the shop.
I asked them to rotate and balance the tires and the vibration was noticeably reduced...initially. Now it's back!
The car has ~65k miles. All 4 Kumho tires match and I believe are original from the factory. I have kept all tires inflated properly.
Our car has the optional 18" wheels. Is it common for these to bend? What else could be the cause here?
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2.0L 8v ....So what's my chances the valves stayed clear of the pistons?
Driving 70mph 5the gear and cruise control set. Motor just died and I pulled off.
Cars back home in the garage. Iv ordered the ecs tuning timing belt kit.
This was a belt I installed 50k miles ago, shouldn't have gotten a auto parts store belt, or maybe it was my install, but I deff didn't think the belt was going to fail that early. Is there much of a difference between different brand belts and OEM?
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Ford F-150, 1994 : intermittent problem. going down highway, foot on the gas. At times, will press accelerator to go faster but nothing happens, like clog somewhere. Sometimes, with foot still on gas, i will hear a popping sound coming from under the truck, (under the engine?, or drivers seat). Usually 4-5 pops, sometimes none. But after each pop, car accelerates slightly, as if it is a slight clearing, until finally, as if some clog was opened up, the car plunges forward, so i then take my foot off the gas. Sounds like either problem with fuel getting to the engine or a problem with the exhaust.
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Daughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
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