Ford - F150 :: 1993 - Check Engine Light At 60 Mph
Mar 10, 2013
My check engine light has been coming on at 60mph. It will go off at 58 or 65mph. I could drive those speeds on the freeway, but would rather repair the problem. I've replaced the O2 sensor after 180,000 miles. I did notice I have a 2 inch hole in my muffler.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-150 v6 2wd. A few weeks ago, the check engine light turned on so I drove to the nearest autozone to hook up their computer and see what the error code was. The technician gave me the code (I don't remember it off the top of my head but it wasn't something imminent). Before leaving, I asked him if he could clear the light, figuring that if it didn't come back on after 50 miles, that it might have just been a fluke with one of the truck's sensors. Later that day, I realized that when I started the truck, the check engine light was no longer turning on momentarily the way that all the dashboard lights do to tell you that they're working.
I went back to a different autozone (one closer to my house) and explained the situation. They checked the computer for codes again and found none and said that the light must not be turning on because the bulb is burned out. I find this to be a striking coincidence that the bulb should happen to blow out exactly when the technician used his computer to clear the light. Is it possible that he did something with his computer that permanently disabled the check engine light? It's been a few weeks and I've since bought an inexpensive bluetooth code reader of my own, hooked it up, and found that there is still no active code. Is it possible that the code has returned or will return, but that I won't have a way to know because something he did suppressed not just the light but my car's code reporting mechanism?
For now, the truck drives fine, but I'm afraid to travel long distances when there might be a problem I don't know about.
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Have 1994 F150 with 5.0L engine. Check engine light, intermittent on due to overheated O2 sensor. Replace sensor, light goes off. The sensor will last longer in cold weather but will fail with same code. Is the overheating due to an electrical problem from the ECU or ambient tempreture. Would like to sell truck but don't want to hand the buyer a dozen O2 sensors.
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start, the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad.... 1993 ford ranger .....
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1997 Ford F150 - 133K Miles - 6cyl - 4.2L. This is a truck that gets less than 2K/year put on it. Has had "issues" with worn bearings and holding oil pressure for a few years now. Yesterday, the check engine light started flashing (as opposed to solidly lit) and the code came back as a cylinder #4 misfire (only the one code). The truck was clearly not firing on all cylinders and at idle, ran terribly (couldn't be driven). I just did a compression test on all the cylinders and all measured around 140-145psi except the #4 which read almost 170psi. I rechecked this a few times as well as a couple of the others and am now sure of the results. What could cause this one cylinder to have a higher compression ? Is whatever is causing this increase in the compression, also be the cause of them misfire ?? I'm stumped here and quite frankly, expected the compression on the #4 cylinder to be really low as opposed to the others.
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My vehicle is a 98 F150 5.4 ltr Triton. I got a check engine light on and the error is "bank 2, system too lean." I read that this can be caused by a few different things like vacuum leaks or fuel filter and so far I haven't been able to narrow down. It started with occasional shaking at idle and its happening more as time goes. When at idle it often makes a sound like slurping the bottom of a drink with a straw and shakes intermittently. The fuel economy seems to have gone down. Sometimes it seems like it almost dies in idle, but always keeps running. It runs great when I push on the gas.
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Just replaced the alternator in my 1993 Ford F250. How do I reset my check engine light? It keeps coming on after I drive for roughly 5 to 10 minutes.
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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I have a 93 Town car that runs good until it warms up to normal running temperature, then the check engine light comes on and the car falls all over itself and sometimes stalls. I have changed everything but the kitchen sink Re; fuel filter, fuel pump, gas tank, IAC motor, TPS, cleaned out cats and when you scan it no codes show.
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
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I am doing an sas on my 93 f150 short bed. my issue is that I've made coil spacers out of 1/2" thick by 3" tall by 4" in dia.... as you can see strength is not an issue here. i bought 6" lift coils for a 93' then decided to just say f it and throw a d44 straight axle under it. the springs on a 78' d44 are the same dia. top to bottom. 93' springs get smaller at the bottom so i made this spacer for two reasons.... 1 to have smaller seat for the bottom of the coil.. and 2 so i could make up the spring length difference between the two springs. The spacers are leaning forward due to the 7 degree c bushings on the radius arms.
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I have a 1993 F150 that I have been working on. I have a set of complete doors off of a 1989 with Power Windows and locks hung on the truck and need to figure out how to power them up. Looking for access to a wiring diagram that will identify the colors of the wires in the doors. I don't care about the auto down and all of that ... not going to try and convert the whole truck with comp and all ... just want to make these function.
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I replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
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I have a '95 Ford F150 with a manual transmission and when I come to a stop light, the engine will either idle down more then it should then go back to normal or it will idle down and then stall out. And when I accelerate, I have to gun the engine for it to go forward or it will stall out again. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the air intake area and it still happens.
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The "service engine soon" light is on. I got code 0141 on the code reader. The repair manual for my F150 is stating that the code is for bank 1 sensor 2.I want to check the sensor, but I don't know the location of bank 1 sensor 2. I would like your advice as to the location of the sensor, and what should I check for?
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I was driving home and all of a sudden my rpms are at 3.5 4k rpm wont shift to next gear. I put in in tiptronic mode and shift it to 8 it works fine. Then about 10 minutes later check vsc shows on dash traction control light is on check engine light is on and the light next to the check engine i think it is the abs light. I havent pulled the code yet.
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Just had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
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1993 F150 302. What does the fuel canister purge solenoid/vac play in the furl/emissions arena?
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The truck in question is a 93 F-150 X/cab 4x4, has 5.0 5spd. So yesterday i replaced my exhaust with pre made magnaflow "y" pipe/cat with a flow master 44 then new pipe all the way out. When i start the truck up this morning to let it warm up a little it started to give off a funny smell almost like brakes/electric burning smell. I was wondering if this is common for new pipes to burn off any oils that may have collected on them from the factory. I look under the truck and nothing is touching the exhaust, but the shiny new pipe is starting to change colors. So do you think it will go away in a short time? I have to an appointment about 30 miles away on the freeway think this will burn off?. BTW there was no smell prior to the exhaust change.
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I've recently rebuilt my toyota celica gt and the engine management light was on , I wiped it and keep getting the same code 52 which I think is the knock sensor car drives terrible under load , idles up and down a little , I've actually replaced the sensor just now and wiped the ecu but as soon as I rev it , bang it's back and I'm getting the same code 52.
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