Ford - F150 :: 1990 - Won't Start / Pump Getting Noisier?
Apr 28, 2013
Went to start "Larry", my 1990 Ford F150, the engine cranked but did not start. I switched to the other fuel tank and it started right up. The tank I normally use is the rear one and the pump had been getting noisier while it was running so I knew it would be soon to fail and it made no sounds when I checked it later to see if it would click and whir. I pulled the tank and installed a new pump. To test it I turned the key and heard the pump whir and stop. I turned the key to start and it started and died a couple ti mes. Front tank switched on and the truck started. While running I switched to rear tank and it died. So I have the pump in and it sounds like it runs up to pressure but the fuel is not moving.
Thought maybe I had fuel lines crossed but my manual seems to indicate they are two different sizes so that left me scratching my head... I have years of experience doing all my own wrenching but this is my first in-tank pump replacement. I have assisted a friend on a couple but never really wanted to pull a fuel tank and in my case this job required I remove the tow hitch set up as well. The hand pump for $9 at Harbor Freight was worth every cent as it made moving fuel to front tank a snap. So what the heck is happening? I don't see how a pump could be installed wrong, it is getting power on initial key turn...I should add the only time it did start I presume was because of fuel in the line that the front tank had supplied on previous start ups...
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My truck is a 1990 Ford F150. It seems like when I let it sit for a few min that the gas just drains back into the tank and there for it wont start up that fast, it takes a while to get it going but when I shut it off and start it back up its like a new truck. It starts right up!!! Any tips on what might be wrong, maybe the gas cap is letting pressure out? Im 17 and my dad knows alot about trucks but he cant tell whats wrong.
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I have a '90 F150 without A/C. For some reason the healing system is stuck on defrost. No matter where I turn the selector switch ( floor, vent, etc) air only comes out the defrost. If I turn it to "off" it will turn off. What is wrong?
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My center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
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I have a '90 F150 and both the yellow ABS light and the red BRAKE light are on.
It was fine until my buddy did a little brake work for me, including replacing a couple brake lines and a parking brake cable. He bled the system at the lines going into the front calipers because the bleeder valves on the calipers where corroded and frozen. I then replaced the calipers and bled the system properly. Three times. I don't think the problem is from the brake work.
The brakes still work, by the way. The pedal just feels a bit spongy and I think the brakes don't work as well as they could.
If the truck is not running, I can pump the brakes a few times, and it will make a sound like it's sucking air a few times. Then the sound stops and the pedal firms up.
If the truck IS running, it keeps making the sucking air sound no matter how many times I pump it, and the pedal feel stays the same. I think it might be a bad brake booster.
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I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
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I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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Will it be easier for me to drop the tank or to take off the bed of the truck does a 1990 F350 7.5 liter dual tank gas
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1999 F150, 4.2L v6, 180K miles, 2WD. Trans is flaring (slipping) in first when warm and was told the pump is leaking too. This truck has easy use (no big towing or hard use) and when it did it the second time, we parked it. I do not want to have anything fail and really damage things inside. We dropped the pan and changed the filter and filled it with fresh Motorcraft fluid. No change.
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I have a 1990 GTS with a transplanted 1996 S5HE 2.2 motor. This summer I started getting overheating issues and I believe my water pump is dying.
Here's the symptoms; car will run nice and cool on the freeway doing 70 with the tach turning at 3.5k. As soon as I get off the freeway and RPMs drop the coolant temp will spike almost into the red. Accelerating from the stop will drop the temp but it will hover near the high end of the middle till I get back on the freeway or RPM's go back up.
It does the same thing when climbing hills or when the engine is under load. It did it bad this summer when it was hot out and I was running the AC. Bad enough that it boiled over a couple times. The radiator is brand new and just based on the symptoms I'm thinking water pump.
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I have 1990 dodge caravan v6, i checked to see if i got power to the fuel pump and there no power going
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1990 Dodge Ram Van.... How hard is this to fix. Some Guys in Los Banos took two days to replace a fuel pump. End result, new pump not grounded so continually drains battery unless I mess with a fuse everytime I start/stop car.
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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Several months back the maintenance guys at the local dealreship somehow managed to screw the AC compressor which was covered by the warranty and replaced with new one (or so they say). Ever since then the engine noise becomes louder and more audible when I switch the AC.
A simple experiment to compare - let your car slowly crawl (1st gear or D) with your foot off the accelerator and try to make a difference with the AC on and off. When I do this I can clearly hear louder noise from the engine compartment as if the motor is significantly loaded.
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12 Santa Fe, I decided I better give it the once over. I found the cabin air filter was pretty bad and that surprised me because I don't drive in dusty areas etc and usually don't drive much at all any more since I got a company car but anyway....to the question: AFTER I changed the filter, making sure the airflow arrow was correct, I noticed that the blower motor is much noisier than before especially when set on the higher fan speeds. The sound is much like a off balance fan with a bit of a thump to it. Could I have dropped some of the dead bugs into the fan when I changed the filter? I was careful and didn't see anything fall into the fan area but the noise is annoying as heck. Is this something that would be covered under Hyundai's warranty? Headed to the Florida Keys Saturday and not looking forward to hearing that racket all the way down there.
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I've had a fuel leak near the pump of my 79 F150 with a 400 for some time. I didn't know exactly where it was coiming from, but fuel was being sprayed on to the oil filter from something near the pump. I assumed it was the steel line, and that it had rusted through or cracked, and was going to replace it when I had a chance. I was poking around today though, and realized that the fuel was not leaking from the line, but from a hole in the side of the mechanical pump.
For someone who knows what these pumps look like, there is a horizontal cylindrical bump out near the top of the pump, on the side of the pump that is away from the engine. The fuel is spraying in a mist out of one side of that. To me, it always seemed to be a screw channel, but I didn't think the pump was 2 halves put together? Need to know more about my pump, what that bumped out section is, or why/how fuel could be spraying out of it.
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