Ford - F150 :: 1988 - Hard Shift From First To Second When Driving In Rear-wheel Drive Mode
Nov 12, 2012
I have a 1988 F150 which is in beautiful shape. My father in law had it since 1989 and had "babied that truck" according to him. So it's running great, has a mere 92,000 miles, is an automatic with 4X4 with manual shifter to put it into 4X4 or Low 4X4. Here's the questions: When driving in rear-wheel drive mode (I never drive it on the street in 4X4 - we don't get snow here in SC) it has developed a hard shift from first to second. It feels like it bumps when shifting. When empty it shifts at about 3200 RPM at average acceleration, which I think is a little high. Does RPM even matter when the shift occurs? Can the tranny be adjusted to shift at a lower RPM? Is my tranny about to go kerplunk? The transmission fluid was a tad low so I topped it off but that didn't seem to work.
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My girlfriend has a 2002 passat 1.8t with the tiptronic tranny... its not throwing a cel but while driving in regular drive mode it seems to have problems downshifting... not all the time but sometimes when you get on the gas and the tranny downshifts it slams* the whole car...
The only thing i can describe it as, is being in a manual car and just dropping the clutch in a lower gear with out giving it some gas to match the rpm's... brought the car to vw dealers and such but all say nothing is wrong and it is "normal"...
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I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
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I have a 2003 four wheel drive Kia Sorento. When not in four wheel drive it is rear wheel drive. On two occasions while driving on snow packed roads, I have had the rear loose traction and spin out luckily going into a soft snow bank. I have good tires, was driving about 15 miles per hour on a flat straight road and not applying the brakes. I can't figure out what is happening. So I started to put it in four wheel drive whenever there is snow pack on the roads. Typically I thought four wheel drive was only for "tough" conditions, but I haven't had a spin since using four wheel drive.
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I have a 99 Taurus. Had the car about 2 and a half years. When I bought it the previous owner said he had the transmission rebuilt a year before,(he did have the repair receipt). Some times, not all, after you've you had to accelerate hard (like getting in a highway),or after a long drive, the car starts to shift hard. It also seems to go from first then neutral then second when taking off from a stop. A quick hesitation,rpm's go up a little,then shifts. I can park,turn the car off, sit a few minutes and it goes back to normal shifting. What this issue is? I thought about changing the filter and fluid,but I've known a few people that have done this while having issues, and the transmission went out soon after! I can't afford a rebuild! What to do? What to do?
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I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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When I shift into 4Lo I get no 4 wheel drive. 4Hi works. Did have a/c redirect to defrost a couple of times. I remember something about the air redirecting having something to do with not having 4x4 but don't know just what it was.
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I can't seem to remember if it is possible to change the drive mode from the steering wheel. In the Limited 2.0T, the drive mode is on the side console and the mode functionality on the steering wheel just changes the radio. Is this possible?
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My 1988 Standard 2WD Toyota pickup truck has intermittent scraping in rear driver side wheel. It only occurs after slowing down from higher speeds and making a turn. It seems to happen IN the turn. The scraping pulses and is in time with the speed of the truck. Once it starts scraping, I stop for a minute, then it goes away.
This makes me think it is my rear brake drum, overheating and locking up. I've jacked up, in neutral, with handbrake OFF and both rear wheels have extreme resistance when I turn them by hand. I also jacked the front to compare the resistance of the front wheels, and there is nearly none. Not sure if this is normal since it is RWD.
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Cleaning out the air ducts in my 88 f150, seems as if every time I turn the heater on high i start sneezing, not sure if its allergens or just dust, bit it is getting really annoying...
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My wife called today after arriving at work letting me know she was having trouble shifting the car from D(drive) to P(park). I know the Gear box is set up in a stepped configuration. Sometimes its smooth shifting up to park and other times its not.
2011 Elantra Gls
Silver w/tinted windows
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At a loss right now. My 2004 F150 4X4 and just recently started sounding like the truck is trying to shift into 4X4 mode while driving it. It stops if it's switched into 4X4. I have taken it to a local mechanic shop I use and they said it was the Actuators and they replaced those. I got it back and the same day the noise came back. Took it back and they have had it for another week and still unable to figure it out. I even took it to another shop that was highly recommended and they say to take it to a Ford dealership. I have read that some say it could be the vacuum operated hubs? Need to figure out what it was and had it fixed?
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Haven't noticed it before, but now I pay attention to my steering wheel - when the car is stopped on Drive mode I can feel a slight vibration on the steering. Shifting to P mode eliminates is. Is it ok? Do Your steering wheels vibrate when You stop at the traffic lights?
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My 6'4" hubby just got in my PriusV 2012 to use it and when he tried to shift into reverse, the parking brake was on and the anti skid icon lit up. It would not shift into drive. When I got in to see what was going on, after he turned it off, everything worked fine for me. It has never done this before but he rarely drives it. Is it possible he was mashing the regular brake pedal down too hard? He wasn't hitting the parking brake getting in or anything like that, I watched when he tried a second time.
We kept trying but he ended up taking his truck instead (which I was washing for him) I know on a couple occasions making fast, hard turns into our driveway I have lit up the anti skid icon but other than some extra braking action it has not caused a problem. And once while stopped at a light and reaching for something in the back seat, I lit it up, but I forget what the car did. I was mashing the pedal down hard as I reached back. I assume in both cases the car thinks I am getting in a wreck and is taking action.
Of course, I just finished washing it but there is no chance it's anything with that? I moved it from the front yard to the back and had no issues before he tried to use it. Anyway, I had this thought about pressing the pedal too hard after he left and here I am asking.
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My 2011 F350 is not engaging 4wheel drive from the dash switch. When I turn it to either hi or lo it says "shift in process" but no 4 WD. It will engage manually from the hub lock, no problem. I know very little about 4wheel drive but am otherwise mechanically knowledgeable.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Contour 133k miles
I've only driven the car for about 2 months, Ive never had an issue with it until yesterday other than an occasional hard shift when driving the car hard. Yesterday when I dropped the car in drive it wouldn't pull at all, I sat in my apartments parking lot continually revving the car high in drive but it wont do anything, its like the car is in neutral. Reverse works and I can drive by manually shifting from first to second and then putting the car in drive, but if I put it into drive before reaching 3rd gear it jumps back to neutral.
I checked the linkage, and the lever it connects to on the transmission; when put into drive the position of the lever coincides with the neutral position. I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor. Prior to this issue I would sometimes here a whistle coming from under the hood when driving, I didn't know until today that a whistle is indicative of a vacuum leak, but wouldn't it throw on my check engine light? I have checked my transmission fluid, its at the correct level and is a nice cherry red, it doesn't have any bad or burnt odor.
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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
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My 88 F150 (300 six, 5 speed, dual tanks, 176,000 miles). The truck has the low pressure fuel pumps in the tanks and the high pressure pump on the frame rail setup. Truck starts fine, but cuts out severely under acceleration for the first 30 seconds of driving. After that I only notice the problem when applying a lot of throttle (does not cut out under gradual acceleration) or climbing steeper hills. If I kill it for a few minutes and then take off again the problem is back for the first 30 seconds or so. I have replaced all the tune-up type stuff (all filters, plugs & wires, dist. cap & rotor, ignition coil, o2 sensor, cleaned throttle body, replaced IAC valve, numerous sensors). Timing is dead on at 10 deg. BTDC with SPOUT unplugged. My FPR was bad so I also replaced that. Condition exists regardless of which fuel tank I am using (no problems with tank selector).
Getting no KOEO codes, but getting KOER code 41 and plugs do seem to show a lean condition possibly. I'm still averaging around 16 MPG since this became a real problem about 3 months ago.
I removed the bowl from the reservoir between the tanks and the high pressure pump on the frame. No filter in there, but it was clean with no gunk or sediment found. I removed the line from the inlet side of the high pressure pump and found that while cranking the engine I have fuel flowing freely (same amount of flow regardless of which tank I've switched to). The flow was steady, but not extremely strong. If I understand right the in-tank pumps are not designed to provide much pressure? Below is what I found at the schrader valve:
key on, engine off - high pressure pumps runs for about 1 second, brings gauge up to 48 psi
idle, FPR connected - 40 psi
idle FPR disconnected - 52 psi
revving throttle with FPR connected - 46 psi maximum
Connector, where fuel pump relay plugs in, seems to be clean and not corroded at all.
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I recently purchased a 2003 F350 FX4 Dually with the 7.3L Diesel. It has locking hubs and electric shift in the cab.
I have had locking hubs before that you had to engage to shift into 4 wheel drive and I have had trucks without locking hubs.
My truck didn't come with a manual, so I am looking for instructions for the proper use of this system.
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My '96 Suburban 1500 4x4 won't shift into 4 wheel drive. When I push the button for 4 Hi the light just flashes and stays in 2 wheel drive. The switch is good because I can hear it engage when I push the button. There seems to be a small amount of fluid (pinkish color) leaking from the transfer case but I couldn't get a good look at it tonight since it is about 10 degrees in my garage right now.
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