I have a 1987 ford F150 302 we were ran off the road and went over a side walk. When we came to a stop the truck cut off. The truck was towed back home and have been unable to crank it since then. We have checked the inertia switch, checked the firing, and changed plugs in it. The trucks will turn over but won't crank.
View 5 RepliesThe truck will not get up and go. When you step on the gas it cuts out and acts like it is going to die. When you give it a lot of gas in idle it also makes a popping sound. When I first tried to figure out what was wrong the catalytic converter got red hot, so I took it to a muffler shop. They said it was not the cc. They then put a new distributer cap on it and an EGR sensor. Still does not run right. The following is what I have put new on it since:
Spark plugs and wires
EGR Valve Throttle position sensor
Fuel filter Fuel Pressure Regulator
Took it to another muffler shop again they said it was not the cc and did a throttle body clean out. I have put fuel injecter cleaner in the gas. When there was a gauge on the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure did not go above 30 PSI and when you stepped on the gas, the gauge read between 10 and 5. Also it does this more so when driving rather than idle and especially when you have to give it gas (like going up a hill) and it seems to hesitate more so after being warmed up. The fuel pump is working according the the ASE master mechanic that tested it with his gauges.
I left the keys in the ignition last night. I didn't think it was left on, but apparently it was. This morning when I tried to crank the truck, it wouldn't start. The dash lights came on, but it didn't make any sound. I tried to jump it off, and it still won't turn over. What it could be??
The truck that wouldn't start was a 97 Ford F150, the car I was trying to jump it with was a 96 Honda Civic. Someone told me that might be the problem, that the small car wouldn't give enough power to a truck...
I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
View 8 RepliesI'm working on a 1987 Ford F150 that's cutting out at speeds above 45mph. The ignition system and fuel pressure checks out OK, but it still cuts out at speed. Today I noticed a new symptom and a rather bizarre one at that. If you slam a door or hood, the engine speeds up 500 rpm and then settles back down.
View 2 RepliesI just put an '86 5.0 engine from an F150 2wd pickup in my '87 truck of the same model. The motor was running when pulled but when I set in the '87, it won't run. I've replaced coil, distributor assembly, plugs, wires, throttle body, checked timing etc. I've got spark through the plugs and fuel in the cylinder but with no luck. Don't know where to turn next.
View 3 RepliesI have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesI'd like to convert my power steering to manual. I've done this to my Mustang, but never a vehicle this long and heavy. Looking for impressions of the results. Also, any special tools that may be required for the swap.
My truck is a 1987 F-150 4x2 extended-cab long-bed with a 351w and C6.
1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1987 ford f150 with a EFI throttle bodied 5.0L (302), and I have taken it to a mechanic multiple times because for one it has a dead spot in the throttle and it dies when you let off the gas at a stop light or sign. But the mechanic said he checked everything he knew to check and found nothing wrong with it. I also had my cousin read the computer previous to this and we couldn't pull the codes from it.
View 2 RepliesWhy the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
View 4 RepliesI have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
View 4 RepliesLooking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1987 ford 350 when i go up a steep hill the truck starts to skip and break down to a point where I have to pull over i just put in new fuel pump in tank, what could be the problem only happens on hills.
View 11 RepliesI've got an 87 ford ranger 4x4. The truck won't start. The ignition is firing off with the key on engine off. When I got the truck the transfer case was blown. The people I got the truck from drove it to here it sat. I check the wiring but the transfer case to make sure it diet get damaged causing a sort. When I got the pcm was missing. Took one out of a bronco 2 and changed the relays on the fender. Here what I've done so far
Relays
Pcm
Complete tune up.
Distributor and ignition module
Replaced and repair some grounds.
I have a 1987 Chevy Celebrity w/a 2.5l automatic engine. Physically its in really good shape and only has 64k original miles. Consistent issue is it will crank (sometimes very hard to get it to do so, then run smooth, sometimes for days, sometimes for only minutes, then stall out. It usually stalls after the engine is good and warm. If you let it sit for about 5-10 minutes, it will restart and idle smooth and then go into stalling out again, sometimes within minutes, sometimes days. I have replaced the fuel tank, fuel filter, sending unit/fuel pump, fuel injector, throttle body, the computer, exhaust/muffler, mass air flow sensor, several other sensors and it has not improved or worsened the problem. I have sunk $1700.00 into this car in replacement parts. I can't believe that there's much else left that could be the cause, and I suspect its bound to be something simple, like a sensor or something, because pretty much all of the expensive stuff's been replaced.
View 1 RepliesI have an 08 F150 5.4L with about 68k miles. When the temperature is 40 degrees or colder it will not crank. I had the same issue with my 2005. I can turn the key and nothing, lights, radio and everything work. The dash display has dashes all the across for the miles, temp and compass. I have found out that it doesn't matter if I leave the key forward in the run position or try to crank, it won't do anything.
Battery is good and no problems with the truck. After the key is in and I give it anywhere from 15 to 60 seconds you can hear an electrical click real faintly and see the red security light come on and then the computer display comes on and then I can start with no problem? What could this be? My dealership has no clues and I can get it to act up because after I get it there it starts with no issue. The remotes work fine and this issue was why I got rid of my '05.
302 V8. Autolite 2150 carb. Auto-tranny. My vintage Ford truck which I love has developed a problem where it idles too fast for too long after warm-up. What I mean is that it is normal when it works correctly for it to idle fast for a few minutes until it warms up, at which point the idle speed slows down to normal. The way it works when it is working correctly, after a few minutes to warm up, I step on the gas pedal briefly, and the idle speed to kicks down. That's the way it is supposed to work. It seems actually like there are actually three idle speeds when it is working correctly. Fast, not quite as fast, and normal, all accessed via the kick down operation. Working correctly, it takes maybe three minutes to kick down the two steps to the normal idle speed. Does that sound right?
Anyway, the problem is that now it stays at the highest idle speed for 15 minutes. Eventually it kicks down to normal. But the high idle speed is too much for 15 minutes. Plus as it warms up the high idle speed becomes even higher since it doesn't kick down like it should. So it becomes difficult to keep the speed below 25 mph even w/out pressing on the gas pedal. It idles at about 25 mph for 15 minutes as it warms up!
I looked at my Chilton's manual -- better than nothing, but barely -- and it mentions something about a vacuum choke kickdown, a heat riser gadget, and the auto-choke. How to test each one to find what the problem is?
Lately, I've noticed what appears to be water coming from underneath my engine. It is located at the rear-centre of the engine, near the firewall, and quite enough leaks that I can see the puddle draining near to the sidewalk where I park. I have not been using the AC (that is, the green light is not on) but the air is still cool so perhaps the AC is still working though. It appears to be water, has no odour, nor does it appear to have any colour - so I am sure it is water. Could it be the water pump? Or just part of the AC condenser? More accurately, does the AC still work (even minutely) even though the green "AC" light remains unlit?
View 2 RepliesAfter truck gets warm it won't restart.
View 5 RepliesMechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
View 9 Replies