Ford - F150 :: 1983 - Stalls Out When Shift Into Reverse Or Drive
Feb 25, 2013
I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
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I have a 2004 F-150 crewcab, 4.6L with 118,000. I don't drive the truck often but for the past few months its stalls and cuts off, and idles poorly in reverse. Truck cutting off at low RPM's, low speeds, and after going over some bumps. At one point the engine light came on but now it is off and I am still having the issues. . . . not sure what code it would display. I have been reading articles and blogs and most say the TPS, MAF, or IAC is the problem.
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I have a 1988 F150 which is in beautiful shape. My father in law had it since 1989 and had "babied that truck" according to him. So it's running great, has a mere 92,000 miles, is an automatic with 4X4 with manual shifter to put it into 4X4 or Low 4X4. Here's the questions: When driving in rear-wheel drive mode (I never drive it on the street in 4X4 - we don't get snow here in SC) it has developed a hard shift from first to second. It feels like it bumps when shifting. When empty it shifts at about 3200 RPM at average acceleration, which I think is a little high. Does RPM even matter when the shift occurs? Can the tranny be adjusted to shift at a lower RPM? Is my tranny about to go kerplunk? The transmission fluid was a tad low so I topped it off but that didn't seem to work.
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My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
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Finished my flush, but now it won't shift to reverse unless i shift all the way to drive first. I thought it might be the hard shifting lever(i think something is up with the linkage), so i shifted to neutral, then reverse, but no success. It's still about 1/4-1/2" overfilled, I jsut ran to the hardware store and it's consistently still not shifting to reverse unless I take it all the way to drive first.
Really hoping I didn't break something in the process... I did do the shifting through the gears while it was flushing out the old coolant, could the valve be stuck due to that?
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I have a 2006 Chevy cobalt and am currently stranded with my husband. Last night as we were about to head home from visiting family 3hrs away, we got off at an exit and as we were stopping about to go again because the light turned green, the car stalled. We had to start it a bunch of times just to get it to the nearest gas station about an eighth of a mile down the road. The message on the dashboard said "engine power reduced". We looked up that message online and a few posts said to disconnect the battery. We did that a few times but when we went to go, it kept doing what it did before, stalling. We were almost to the road and decided we weren't going to make it so we put it in reverse and it drove just fine back to a parking spot. Why it would stall idling and in drive but not in reverse? We are baffled and currently waiting on a tow.
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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At the airport made a wrong entrance and notice it so fast, therefore, did a quick reverse and shifted back to drive, but the car died on me. It took me a little while to see what is happening and start the engine again, but the cars behind me were not real cooperative.
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Lately, I've noticed that my car starts fine in cold weather. But, once I put the car into drive or reverse, it stalls. Also, once I start the car let my foot on gas for few min, and then put into drive or reverse, it drives fine.
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This is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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I shifted to "reverse" but the car went to "drive" instead. I've only had my Prius for 2 weeks. Today was the first time I encountered this problem, and it happened 3x.
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Ok first off I am a used car dealer and have sold 20 plus gen IIs and never had to replace the main Hybrid battery pack... until this one! after i replaced it with a used one every thing seemed to be fine, I drove the car for a while the check engine light went off(the reason we knew the battery pack was bad) and after a few miles of driving the red triangle light went off.. yea! I think im done so we put all the carpet and rear seats back in and i get in it to start it and put it on the lot and it will not go into gear or start. all the dash lights come on and will go into neutral when i push the brake but just will not go into drive or neutral.
Here are some things we already tried:
1. put the original battery back in the car- no change
2. put our jump box to the small battery-no change
3. checked the brake lights they are coming on when i push the brake
4. put the scanner on the obdII- no codes
The car is an 06 with 200k miles in very good shape. Could it be in the shifter and not related to the battery change out?
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Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
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I have recently been having problems with my 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). When I press power, all the dashboard lights turn on. And when I try to shift the car into reverse or drive the car stays on neutral. What is going on?
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I have a 99 passat w auto and tip it will only go into drive and reverse, the tip does nothing and it starts in 4th gear from a start. It works in reverse but I can move the shift lever into 1st or any other gear and it does nothing it wont down shift or the tip wont do anything I am at a loss, I heard it could be the TCM or a pressure selonoid in the tranny...
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My 99 Tahoe has started making a weird like clank noise when I shift into drive or reverse. It also has a light shake which was only if I took a sharp turn, but is becoming a little more common.
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I have an 1983 F150 on a little island, so I have to be the mechanic. Yesterday the truck started then stalled and wouldn't start. I opened the hood and the battery cables, the fender mounted solenoid and the cable from the solenoid to the starter were too hot to touch. The battery was dead in about five minutes. I didn't have time to charge the battery, had to get back to the mainland. I bought a new solenoid and a new ignition switch today but where the problem might lie. I won't be able to get back to the truck until the weekend.
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I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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I am having difficulty with my Prius, (just started) that it won't shift out of neutral to drive or reverse. I have read several posts, one says replace the shifter knob, but I did read one i thought that said the 12v battery might be the problem with low voltage. The battery is 5 years old.
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I have a 2010 RX and I've recently noticed every time I shift from Drive to Reverse and vice versa there's a squeaking noise coming from the shift stick. What this could be and if there's an easy solution?
I'm not due for service or an oil change for another 5,000 miles so I'm hoping it's not something I need to address immediately. Do you think it would be safe to wait until then?
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