My trusty old Sport Trac has over 100k miles now and over the last year or so, the check engine light keeps coming on with bogus error codes. After reset, it will soon come on again with a different error code. Ever heard of this?
View 2 Replieswith a flashing o/d light.
I have a 02 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. V6 4.0L with a 5R55E transmission. About 210,000 miles.
A few weeks ago after a trip i discovered i had a coolant leak. It took me a couple of days to figure out that it was the lower thermostat housing. Fixed that and I thought my troubles were over. WRONG.
A few days later the O/D light started flashing and I got to enjoy the wonderful "Limp Mode". The problem only showed up when I had to slow down for a stop. As soon as I started to go again and it went to shift into second (or overdrive 1st) the o/d would start flashing and hello "limp mode".
I got on the web and started reading. I ended up replacing the speed sensor (in the rear differential), the crankshaft sensor, and readjusted the bands with no luck. I would have to shut the truck off at every stop sign/red light just to avoid "limp mode".
Last week I went to a friends shop to have them change the oil and we started talking about the problem. I got him to flush the transmission fluid and look at the codes.
He got the following codes: P0731, P0732, P0733, and P0734. Incorrect gear ration 1 - 4. He cleared them and nothing popped back up.
That cleared up most of the problems.
Same scenario as before but only after I reach 40-50 mph. If I'm just in city traffic it doesn't pop up. And if I'm driving around with no stop signs/red lights it won't reappear. But if i get up to 40-50 mph and have to complete stop, as soon as I take off again and it shifts into that second gear (or sometimes 3rd gear) it will go into "limp mode".
So for about two years now I have had this creaking, squeaking noise coming from the left side of the truck. It only happens when turning left(such as 90° turns). It doesn't happen over bumps or while turning right. if you turn slowly the sound is minimal or not there. When it rains and there is water on the road the noise usually stops all together. The noise is not constant. Almost sounds like a shopping cart with bad wheel.
We replaced all the ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, sway bar links, tires, sway bar bushings, and brakes(not all because of the sound, just taking care of maintenance along the way). My mechanic did my alignment about two months ago and could not pin the noise down and didn't see anything binding. Suggested to change out the sway bar links, but that didn't stop it.
I've got an '07 Sport Trac that is throwing the airbag light when a passenger sits down. I took it in to the dealership and they said that the trac on the passenger side seat has a signal blocked when somebody sits down.
Are there any obvious things I can do or check for? They didn't dig around for anything, they just hooked it up and pulled the codes with and without someone sitting in the seat to confirm the diagnosis.
A few months back my Explorer Sport Trac's traction control activated while I was driving up a hill. My engine idled down and I slowed almost to a stop. Almost immediately, the light went off and everything returned to normal. This morning on the way to university, the traction control activated and would not allow the engine to resume acceleration until I disabled it (which only allows it to be disabled below 40 mph).
It finally stopped as I was arriving at campus. There were no odd noises, nothing unusual about how it drove (apart from the issue above), and no other warning lights were present.
I recently had my Transmission flushed at 90K (beyond the 75k). I had my Struts replaced and Full differential service. They found the Carrier bearing Center Ring was blown out said my truck was fine to drive until the part came in. I drove my truck home and it wasn't until I put about 20 miles on my truck did my truck start to slam into 2nd gear. It goes gentle if I accelerate slowly and eases with I turn the OD off ( but I only tried a few times). I have tried a few forums and there are so many things that it could be.
Everything was fine until I had this servicing and they took my truck apart. On a separate unrelated issue I have a check battery light on, but it is a brand new battery. I had my stereo changed out a year ago and the shop said it was the battery failing (only 1.5yrs old). Just though I would throw that in just in case a COMPUTER issue gets thrown out there. My truck has been running fine before all this SERVICING was performed...
When car is stopped after driving for awhile, steam comes pouring out of hood on passenger side near windshield. Opened the hood and steam was coming from firewall area, not from radiator. Mechanic replaced thermostat etc. for heater core but stll have steam problem. Temperature gauge reads normal and heater doesn't work. It tastes like antifreeze is getting into passenger compartment and it fogs up the windshield.Radiator cap is not even warm. Sounds like antifreeze is not flowing through the radiator.
View 7 RepliesJust had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
View 4 Replies1997 f 150 4x4 5.4 right now has a 145k miles.
About a year and half ago (120kmiles) the check engine light came on, checked the codes; 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean. Cleared the codes drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on same codes, cleared the codes, drove for about 3 weeks and the light came back on, this continued with shorter times between the light coming on. Did this until sept 2012 took it in and Ford replaced the MAF, all good until today Jan.8, 2014. The light came on today I checked the codes 1 left bank to lean. 2 right bank to lean, cleared the codes today, the light staying off for right now. My best guess is that the MAF is again bad, my question is; how long does a MAF last, why would it fail in just over a year? What can I do to make the the MAF last longer.
I have a 1996 ford taurus lx dohc v6 3.0.. I keep getting codes p0171 & p0174 System Too Lean (Bank 1 and bank 2. I check for air links and i did not find any..I never got that code tell i replace the MAF sensor..
View 7 RepliesNeed to clear codes after doing a lot of work on this used Eddie Bauer With the 4.6 engine. Is there a procedure to clear the codes to get a new reading?
View 1 RepliesThe check engine light came on in my truck and while I suspected it was a misfire (driving along it will misfire like crazy at certain RPM). What I cannot figure out is exactly which coil is causing the problem. I get these codes:
P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire --> Easy enough, cylinder 6
P0356 - Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit --> Which cylinder is this?
P0356 - Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit --> Which cylinder is this?
Assuming that cylinder 1 is the front left (when facing the vehicle) am I right in that cylinder 6 is the 2nd from front on the right (when facing the vehicle)? Would Ignition Coil F also be on cylinder 6? and therefore ignition coil G be cylinder 7?
The other code I am getting are both the same:
P1740 - Powertrain
P1740 - Powertrain - Transmission System Problems
I suspect these 2 are related to one another, the odd piece is it drives fine other than the misfire. Hoping to cure the misfire so that it drives smoothly and I can then figure out the P1740 code.
The below is for a 175k mile '02 Mercury Mountaineer 4.0L with 5R55W trannie that has previously had somewhat of a whining sound in 2nd gear (I thot it was rear differential). Note: I just changed the fluid & filter myself last week due to its shifting being a little harsh. Then, this past Sunday, the O/D light started flashing after about 5 min of driving (but the CEL is NOT on). It also did so the next two times I drove it after that.
1. Any cheapest reader available at Adv Auto that can get these, I assume, Ford-specific transmission codes?
2. I tried a co-worker's dated Snap-on MicroSCAN (#EESC307A) that indicated all was good. Its software was dated 2002, if it's capable of getting what I need (for cheap, if an update is possible)?
3. I have an Android tablet and my wife has an iPhone. Any Torque app (or other) used in conjunction with one of those bluetooth OBDII readers, provide me with the fault codes I need?
Working on a friends 94 ranger, 2.3 L with codes 218 and 998. Chiltons manual does not even show this code. Code is for Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM)/left side. What exactly is this? Can't find anything that explains the IDM.
998 means a hard fault.
We sold a customer a 5.4l engine and he installed it and it idles just fine, but falls on its face when put under load. Truck is a 2001 f150 and is not around here. Cus gave me these codes:
P0135
P1130
P0174
P0308
P0351
P0352
P1131
From all I have found, it appears to be a lean condition and cop #1 and #2. All of these codes pop up all at once after r&r ing an engine? I am thinking bad intake gasket and possibly bad coils.
My scenario: 2000 F150 4x4 Supercab 5.4L 161k miles. Codes on my scan are P0113 intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high. P0102 mass air flow volume low. P0305 cyl 5 misfire. P0307 cyl 7 misfire. The 1st code I'm unfamiliar with sensor location? 2Nd code i replaced air filter, removed MAF sensor for cleaning and it appears to have only 1 heating wire or filament. Shouldn't there be 2? Plugs were changed approx 15k ago however COP's were not. Should that be my first remedy for 305&307, new plugs and coils? Also what is next sensor in line between MAF and throttle body? Is that the sensor from code P0113?
View 3 RepliesI am having the above codes come up P0316 and PO305. The car is running rough...just started tonight. The check engine light started flashing but it's on continuously. Of course when I had the codes read at a Firestone they gave absolutely no support as to what it could be.
View 17 RepliesI was driving my 2002 Ford Focus, when the engine cut out & would not restart.The starter cranked the engine over, I had plenty of gas,and the battery is almost new.After getting the car towed home, I hooked up an OBD II Autoscanner.The scanner showed no codes, and said the car passed the scan test.
I was expecting a sensor code, a fuel pressure code or an ignition coil code. The car had done this once before - but the code reader had correctly shown a faulty crank sensor.
I don't see any loose wires or anything obvious that popped off while driving.BTW, it was a smooth road & I was only doing about 50 mph. Where should I start troubleshooting?What would cause the engine to stop but not show a code?
I have a 1996 Ford E-150 van that has a misfire. The plugs, wires, cap and rotor have been changed and I still have it. The error codes come up as cylinder 3. ( I was getting the same before I replaced everything.) Scanner also says lean on bank 1. It also says that the O2 sensor behind the cat is not doing much.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Taurus. We had an $1800 rebuilt transmission put in 8 months ago and it's already giving us problems! The engine light has also been on. We took it to autozone and multiple codes came up. We've already put way too much money into this piece of shit and I don't want to get screwed by another mechanic! Where do we go from here? Is there anything we can fix ourselves? The codes are p0300, p0301, p0305, p0316....
View 11 Replies2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.
Problem: 2 possibly related
1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.
Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.
Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:
Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes
What I've done:
- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.
I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.