Ford - Explorersport :: Fluctuating Speedometer / ABS Light Came On And Engine Becomes Loaded
Dec 21, 2011
I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport. In the past month, I have experienced on a number of occasions a sudden fluctuation in the speedometer. At the same time, the ABS light will come on and the engine becomes loaded. This will last for a second and then return to normal. The interval between occurrences is not fixed or repeatable but often occurs when traveling at a higher speed (65-70 mph) on the interstate. The first garage said it might be the idle valve so we had it replaced but the problem appeared again a few days later. We just recently took it to a Ford dealership that said it might be the rear wheel ABS sensor so we had this replaced. Once again the problem reappeared a few days later.
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I was driving home tonight and stopped to get dog food. Resuming my drive home I had gone about 3 miles and my ABS light came on, the tachometer began fluctuation and the speed odometer went to zero. And the engine was losing power. Pulled over turned the lights off and turned the car off. Waited about 30 seconds and turned the car back on and everything was fine and car ran absolutely normal with no warning lights. I was about 26 degrees out.
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Speedometer Going Crazy. 2002 Excursion, 5.4, Auto Transmission, 246800 miles. Put key in ignition and immediately noticed no odometer display. Put it in drive, Odometer began to register but SPEEDOMETER fluctuated wildly. Reading the posts as best as I could, I replaced the VSS sensor on Rear Diff, and no change in symptoms. I don't want to replace sensors just to replace them.
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I have a 2002 Grand Caravan, when foot is on brake, speedometer jumps all over, engine bucks so bad I have to put it in neutral or park at every red light. When I go forward, it jumps a little, and sometimes will not shift, engine revs up so bad, I have to pull over, shut engine off, turn it on and then it shifts. Speed sensors were supposedly replaced with the plug for them. It is at a dealership, they checked all the sensors, electrical wires, etc, and not it doesn't shift at all!! It is still there, now I have no van to drive. They claim they did nothing to it, it was shifting 90% of the time. It will not shift at all, even when I shut it off and re-start it. Now they claim it may need a new used tranny.
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I own Sta Fe 2014 DM CRDi 2.2L diesel engine automatic transmission. Recently I am encountering a problem on my unit, firstly the ABS, ESC, and Hill descent alarm indicator shows on my dash brought it to Hyundai and they replace wheel hub assembly on the rear right wheel. after a week it goes lit again but doesn't stays long it disappear right now it happens from time to time only. Secondly my cruise control wont engage the light stays on but could not keep the speed, Ive check the brake lights they are not busted. The service technician doesn't now what to do and no error code showing on the computer. Last is during start up transmission on neutral or park position the speedometer fluctuates then warning light on ABS, ESC appears.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala has developed a brand new problem today. Driving down the block to the store, the speedometer started fluctuating wildly. I was going a consistent speed of about 10 mph in my parking lot and when I braked to a stop the speedometer started swinging all over the place, from 10 to 35 mph. It then gave me a message on the dash saying "Speed Limited to 107 MPH" and somehow killed my accelerator because the gas pedal no longer did anything. I restarted the car and the accelerator worked again for a bit and then pulled the same problem again. The speedometer is now fluctuating wildly the entire time I drive, including while stopped, but so far the message seems to have kicked on and disabled my accelerator only when slowing to a stop and accelerating out of a stop (it happened three times).
I know that the Impala's governor is set to 107 mph so I can guess why that message exists, but I wouldn't think a governor would actually kill the car even if it kicked in at the right speed.
It wasn't that long ago that we had to have our pedal position sensor resynchronized and the mechanic had mentioned that it was possible the sensor was going bad, but I don't think that would be the problem here as it seems like the car would actually have been accelerating sporadically, whereas in my case just the speedometer is swinging around despite an even speed.
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I have an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe. Check engine light comes on, fuel gauge goes from empty to full, to half, to 1/4, just all over the place. Even ran out of gas a few times on the side of the road not knowing how much fuel I have.
What exactly causes this problem? I've heard "fuel sender" I've heard "fuel pressure sensor" etc. All are different parts. Need to get this repaired asap.
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Just bought an '03 Excursion v10 with ~150,000 miles on it (Saturday morning). About 3/4 of my 1.5 hr drive home, when I hit my first small mountain, and I put my foot into it, the ABS light came on, and the speedo started bouncing around. Same thing on the second hill/mountain.
Then, after driving it on a couple small trips this weekend, and towing my 2500 lb boat home (20 min drive), it behaved fine (no big hills, etc). However, I decided to hookup my backup camera. During the 60 or so minutes that I had it sitting with dome lights on, etc measuring everything up (also trying to figure out how to fit my tool box in the back).
When I tried to start it when I was finished, it would just crank and crank and crank. Every now and then, it would try to catch, but never would. Left it sit for another 10 minutes and it started just fine. However, once it started, the ABS light came on for a little while, then went out.
At first, I thought "oh no... fuel pump". But then I started thinking about the speedo and the ABS light going whacko on the hills. I'm wondering if it's a low voltage issue? I had the alternator checked out today, and it tested fine at 13.9v. However, I've heard that those tests aren't always accurate.
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Here is a YouTube video showing my erratic RPMs while idling in park, then pressing and releasing the brakes and gas to show what happens each time: [URL] ....
I just bought a 99 Explorer Sport. The history I know is that the truck has 200k+ miles on it, with the engine replaced. Replacement engine has 90k on it.
Was told the fuel pump, and serpentine belt (I think, he said "main belt") were replaced in the last few months.
The car was driving fine on the test drive and for the first few days of owning it. Then a clicking sound started form under the hood while driving.
I first noted the clicking while at a red light, and when I accelerated it stopped. Over the last week it has increased in frequency every day and now is almost constant.
This evening I was coming to a stop with my foot off the gas and when I hit the brakes the RPM went up, and car lurched forward before stopping gently. This kept happening so I drove home and took the above video. Video taken shows the RPMs jumping up when in park and going form idle to idle with brake depressed. when I rev the gas and let go, the RPMs fall, hang for a couple seconds, and then fall back to ~1000. The captions are very accurate, they show exactly when the brake or gas was pressed and when they were let go.
My obvious question would be WHAT IS CAUSING THIS? Also, ARE THE CLICKING AND THE RPMs RELATED? Finally, SHOULD I AVOID DRIVING IT? I need to drive it a few times through the next few days and I can't really avoid it unless it will mean serious damage.
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Oil gauge that doesn't register any pressure until a mile or two before it snaps up to a mid gauge reading? This truck has other "computer related issues" so I don't know if it is that or a weak oil pump. Is this an alarming symptom or a fluke?
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We have a 2000 Ford Explorer and the Driver's side electronic door lock will only unlock during warm weather. The lock will work to lock the doors, but if the temperature is below a certain degree, the door won't unlock. What is the fix?
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I have a 1983 E350 RV with a 460 engine. It would appear that many "Mechanics" have altered the wiring in different ways. That being said I think the charging and starting electrics are fairly untouched. My issue is that once it has been running for a while the interior lights start to fluctuate so does the radio display. The AC fan speeds up and slows down and I feel like there is not enough gas being pumped up too due to some coughing and sputtering. When I press the brakes the radio stops playing and if I have the AC on it gets worse. Today I changed the voltage regulator and it made no difference. This vehicle has two batteries, one for starting the van like normal and one to run the coach part. The alternator charges both. I think it must be a bad ground somewhere but not sure where to start.
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I was able to quickly diagnose the problem with our 99 T&C LXi w/3.8L.
Problem: No speedometer, wouldn't shift, check engine light came on.
Many posts suggested speed sensor. There are actually 2 of them. An input and an output. Both cost approx $20 each.
By removing the aircleaner box assembly, I had the best (relative word) access to the sensors. A 1" socket w/3" extension did the trick. I understand the access for 2000+ models is different.
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Driving on highway, check engine light goes on, speedometer drops from 60 to 0 but nothing else happens. Come to a stoplight and engine light stays on and speedometer works again. Any diagnostics?
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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Buick Century 1987 - 2.8L
Sending unit measures: Empty 9 ohm - Full 88 ohm
Fuel pump working while engine is running or key switch in ON position (working properly).
Issue: Fuel needle fluctuates while car is in movement and the engine stops when the car is going downhill and suddenly is braked (half tank), Is normal this behaviour in this car? Is this car equipped with a 'anti-slosh module'? if yes, where it is located?
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this morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine.
nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night.
will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
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I am experiencing a pretty noticeable vibration from the rear of the vehicle (steering wheel does not shake and I have no "death wobble") when hooked to my 14K trailer and also my stock trailer (to some degree). Happens constantly whether loaded or not, although it is a bit better when loaded. Happens much more on rougher country roads, but is still there on the interstates.
The trailer is new to me and I rebuilt the entire brake system, repacked bearings & tires have great tread, but have not had the tires spin balanced.
Can't tell whether a shock change (FX4 Rancho) will fix it or not.
I DO get a pretty severe roller coaster deal when hooked up and going over a dip. Truck just continues to bounce tail to nose, tail to nose, etc. That in itself is obviously shocks, but I am more concerned about the vibration.
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While I am loving the fuel millage and ride of my new truck, I have my first concern. In the last few weeks i have hauled a truck bed full of dirt, and 3300 lbs of sod. both times i would use tow haul mode, and while the truck had plenty of power, it would shutter when accelerating from a stop. Mostly first gear 0-15 mph.
This is my truck with a fancy electronic controlled transmission, so on the old pickups this would be a torque converter slipping, but all the ford dealer wants to tell me is "its electrical and they want to reflash my transmission". I am at 26k miles and have less than 10k left on my warranty...
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My truck makes a horrific screeching sound when it's loaded or pulling a small trailer (2000lbs) up hill. I discovered last night while I had it in drive, if I hold the brake and give it a little gas (like if you were trying to do a burnout) it will make the screeching noise as well. It won't break the rear wheels loose either, which makes me think it's down on power or the transmission is slipping.
My first thought is the transmission, but some searches on this forum describe U-joints or the carrier bearing as possibilities. The previous owner told me he replaced a U-joint just before I bought it, so I'm not ruling that out at all....
My truck specs: 1995 351 E40D 4x4 (manual transfer case & hubs), extended cab eddie bauer. 158k.
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I have this bucking a jerking when pulling my Sundowner LQ horse trailer, primarily in the 40-50 mph range. I can let off throttle and it stops but resumes unless I feather the throttle.... 2008 f 350, 4WD, 6.4, 48k miles....
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