Ford - Explorer - Transmissions :: Vehicle Slows And Cannot Increase In Speed
Apr 13, 2011
96 Ford Explorer, 78,000 miles After about an hour on the highway (60 mph), the vehicle slows and cannot increase in speed. It does this until it slows to less that 20 mph. Pushing on the accelerator increases the rpm, but does not result in an increase in speed. It only does this after an hour or more on the highway (city driving does not cause the problem). No one can diagnose the problem; already took the vehicle to the dealership and a transmission specialist (both said nothing was wrong). Hoping very much to keep this vehicle.
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My 2003 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer 4WD is making noises when the vehicle is at 2000RPMs. Below or above 2k RPM's no noise. Sounds like a very angry rattle snake. I seem to drive at speeds that require it to be at 2k RPM all the time. So needless to say as fall is approaching and I have the windows open, my hair is now falling out and not blowing in the fall air. I want to get it looked at, but don't know what to tell the mechanic to look for.
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I'm looking at a dirt cheap Explorer 4.0, has been sitting for 2 years. Runs nice, with a double "knock" noise but quieter than a rod knock. Idles smooth at 600 rpm, "knock" is consistent, but increases as engine increases speed. Has 2 year old oil, and 2 year old gas. Would a tune up support it, and revitalize it, or is the engine almost dead. Still drives, didn't push it to hard. Interior is 9/10, exterior is 10/10. I have him down to 600. 4x4 works, and feels good.
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I recently purchased a 2012 used Santa Fe. I've only had it about 2 weeks and just noticed something the other day. When I shut the vehicle off and exit, I hear a very low ticking noise coming from behind the front grill vents. It lasts for about 15 seconds and slows down until it stops completely.
I'll be the first to tell you that I know absolutely NOTHING when I comes to cars (other than how to drive one ). My guess would be that it sounds like some type of fan coming to a stop. If this is the case, I'm wondering if one of the blades could be bent, and how potentially serious of an issue this might be? Other than that, it drives great, with no other notable noises while in motion.
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2 parts to this problem, Just changed the brakes/rotors, drums, shoes all around again, but still have this problem.
1. While stopping at a light when the truck slows down to 5mph or so the petal seems to go soft and the abs kicks in and the truck seems to carry on another 5-10ft further. It slows down from hwy speeds normally but just when it comes down almost a complete stop the abs will kick on in very fast pulse and keeps rolling for a few more ft. Even on dry surfaces.
2. Sometimes on slippery surfaces (gravel roads/rain/snow) it seems like the rear brakes lock at low speeds when coming to a stop.
Just thinking of disconnecting the abs sensors to all wheels......
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This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.
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For those of you that own both a TCH and a 2010 Prius I have a question for you. My commute is only 6-7 miles to work and currently I am getting approximate 45mpg displayed on the mfd. I think I read somewhere that the display calculations may be a little high but all in all I am very happy with my mpg. I am considering trading my 09 TCH for a 2011 or possibly 2010 Prius if the price is right. Anyway If I accelerate my 09 TCH to approximately 41 mph and take my foot off the accelerator, when the car speed slows to about 38 to 37 mph the engine will shut down. I can now lightly push the accelerator to drive along just using the battery. If on a flat road or a slight down hill grade I can even pick up speed and get to about 41 mph before the engine starts back up. My question is how does the Prius work the same way? What are the speeds for the Prius?
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I recently had my local VW dealership replace the alternator on my 2004 V8 under warranty. Upon picking up the Touareg, there is a noticeable increase in exhaust rumble inside the vehicle as well as a vibration coming from the front passenger's seat and footwell. It isn't any louder outside but my wife and son both agree that it is much louder inside the Touareg.
I brought this up to the service representative and he had the shop foreman take a look. The technician said he didn't find any exhaust leaks and said they dropped the motor without removing any exhaust components. He claimed they just removed the clips on the pipes and dropped the motor and exhaust together. I was left to drive away with no solution.
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I just purchased a 2001 Dodge Durango 4wd with 140,xxx miles on it. My issue is that whenever I accelerate it hesistates and if I am going at a high speed like on the interstate or expressway it sometimes slows down (drastically) if I'm going uphill. What can be causing this?
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I have a 2006 Prius and lately, the fan will stop blowing hard on long drives on hot days when the fan is set to High. This happened on a 3 hour trip on the interstate and again when I was driving some back road for about 2 hours. The first time, I noticed the cabin temp was getting hotter so I went to switch the fan speed higher and noticed it was already on high. It was not set to Auto.
When I got home, I let the car cool down for about 30 minutes and when I turned on the car, the AC was blowing full speed and was getting cold like normal. When the fan speed slowed down on its own on the interstate, it was probably blowing at a speed similar to what the fan would normally blow if set to the middle position or maybe even below that. Why the fan would slow down on its own when set on high.
I also just checked the temperature coming from the vent after running the AC on LO temp for about 10 minutes. It was reading 50 degrees with a digital meat thermometer and 46 degrees with an infrared thermometer. So, when the car is cool, the AC seems to be working fine. Just wondering about the fan speed and the fact that the car gets really warm when it slows down on its own.
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1992 Fod Explorer XLT: When I attempt to turn over the engine, the flywheel spins, but the engine doesn't. This is a very gently driven vehicle. I drove home hone day, backed into the driveway and unloaded the groceries. The next morning, when I tried to start it, the engine will not turn over. I dropped the starter and tested it--all good. While I had the starter off, I found I could spin the flywheel freely--appears to not be attached to the engine. It's tight with no play whatsoever. Last year I had a new flywheel installed--something I would do myself, but decided I'm at the age, I'm just not up for it. It's been running great for 18 months with no problems. There was never a noise. This just happened one morning. I thought the crank may be broken, but that seems unlikely since it was driving great until the next morning.
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I recently got a 2002 f150 5.4. The fan speed works on 1 & 2, and 4. It does blow on level 3, but it seems to blow at the same cfm as level 2. I'm thinking this can't be right. But, if it was a simple resistor issue, it wouldn't run at all on level 3, right? So, where I should look first.
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I have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion SE 2.3L 4 cylinder. It has approximately 94,000 miles on it. I purchased new Sumitomo tires with a 100,000 mile warranty in February of this year. They were balanced and aligned at the time of install. So far they have been very smooth and quiet with great grip. About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise that sounds like uneven tire wear, a sort of rhythmic rubbing or wobble sound that increases in frequency as the speed increases. It is most noticeable at speeds between 30 and 50mph. I rotate the tires every other other change (at least twice a year) and had the alignment done again in late October. I am hoping that there is nothing wrong with my virtually brand new tires. Is there anything else it could likely be?
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I am having trouble with my 1999 F350 Ford Powerstroke, Looses power but the motor never quits and also starts up fine, will set and run and warm up on the coldest morningIdles fine, It will hold back sometimes and not increase speed. I can take it out today and it may be fine and tomorrow can't run 2 miles. I was thinking CPS but after reading information I am not sure. What may be causing this issue. I just put a High Pressure oil pump on it could this have anything to do with it. Was not having a problem before the pump was changed. The pickup has 190,000 on it actual miles.
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About a year ago, my Volvo XC70 started hesitating as it increased speed from 0 to about 30mph. After the hesitation it jerked forward. This problem is worse if the gas tank is full. I took the car to a highly recommended transmission garage and they said it wasn't the transmission but the throttle pro-actor and I would have to go to a dealer for that because Volvo has proprietary rights on the computer in the car. I took it do the dealer but the problem persists. My regular mechanic is doing some research about the problem but I would like to know if this sounds like a complete transmission overhaul or if only part of the transmission or a connection needs replacing. I would like to be prepared before I go to the mechanic.
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Since I got Prius I've noticed that driving at 50mph returns 80+mpg , 90+mpg if I let it gently glide at -1mph per 1 mile. As it gradually slows down, the mileage starts to decrease. By the time I get down to 45 mph the mileage shows around 70mpg,
I get down to 40mph, I'm only getting 50mpg. When I keep my speed between 40 and 45 I get about 52-55 mpg for the day. If I keep my speed between 45 and 50, I get 55-60mpg for the day.
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I'm hoping to see if there is another solution here. I just hit 100k on my .:R and it has developed a vibration that increase with speed front right. I have done a few things already including the following: swapped out winter wheels for summer, had summer wheels re-balanced (both are hub centric). Both lower control arm bushings on L&R side (both were original), new ball joint front right (it was wiped), new hub assembly/wheel bearing front right, re-torqued all the sub frame bolts to spec, inspected tie rod end - appears OK, inspected strut mount - appears OK, strut and coil appear OK, neither CV boot is not torn. replacing the wheel bearing made it quieter but the vibration is still there. It feels like the worst possible unbalanced wheel and the vibration is exaggerated under a load. I'd try a CV next but I'm having a hard time sourcing a front right CV.
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Are you experience abnormal tire wear? - I'm collecting data or tire wear for the Matrix.
My car is wearing the inner most tread only front and rear tires. And I am getting tire noise that increase with speed - it's annoying to say the least.
My mechanic says this is normal - yeah right!
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Once in awhile, as in maybe once a month or every few thousand miles, I hear a rattling noise in the rear below the car. It is very audible and everyone in the car notice it.
This happen only when I have been in traffic for awhile during which:
1) when battery is running really low from moving at low speed
2) After which the engine is turned on to charge the battery
3) moving low speed with the engine running.
The vibrating noise increases as my speed increase, getting more audible and vibrating faster. After a certain point (maybe 30 mph) the noise stopped.
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