Ford - Explorer - Noises - Transmissions :: 2003 - Rattling When Vehicle Is At 2000 RPMs?
Oct 1, 2011
My 2003 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer 4WD is making noises when the vehicle is at 2000RPMs. Below or above 2k RPM's no noise. Sounds like a very angry rattle snake. I seem to drive at speeds that require it to be at 2k RPM all the time. So needless to say as fall is approaching and I have the windows open, my hair is now falling out and not blowing in the fall air. I want to get it looked at, but don't know what to tell the mechanic to look for.
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96 Ford Explorer, 78,000 miles After about an hour on the highway (60 mph), the vehicle slows and cannot increase in speed. It does this until it slows to less that 20 mph. Pushing on the accelerator increases the rpm, but does not result in an increase in speed. It only does this after an hour or more on the highway (city driving does not cause the problem). No one can diagnose the problem; already took the vehicle to the dealership and a transmission specialist (both said nothing was wrong). Hoping very much to keep this vehicle.
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I drive a 2000 Celica GT 5 speed. I am having an issue with my 1ZZ-FE.
I am hearing a ticking/rattling noise from my engine around 2k-3k RPMS. Anything before or after that, the noise dies down. I could hear it from the interior of the car as well. I at first thought it was valve chatter. Someone said It could be a piston or rod. What parts will be needed? Worst case, ill just swap in a 03+ 1ZZ or go with a 2ZZ.
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I have a 07 Hyundai sonata that has a rattling noise only during acceleration and only at just under 2000 rpm's. I went to a mechanic who checked the heat shields and exhaust only to tell me it was in the transaxel and sent me to a transmission shop. the transmission shop told me they think its the hydraulic lifters, and sent me elsewhere.
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I have a 2003 Explorer 4.0l 4x4 auto. Yesterday day the passenger rear tire got a flat, so I put the full size spare on, and went about my business. About 2 miles up the road is a stop sign, so I start slowing down, and while slowing down I can hear a whining thumping sound from the front of the vehicle. It wasn't doing this before the flat, but right after I put the spare on it starts to do this. It only happens when slowing down, not under acceleration.
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I have a 2003 GMC Envoy I6 4.2L. When driving above 50 after vehicle has warmed up it will drop rpm's by 300-500 and they go back up. This happens for several minutes at a time. It did it for over 20 minutes last night while driving home. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body this morning (removed to clean) because in my researching for the solution it seemed that was the answer. Also left battery disconnected the entire time to allow computer to reset itself for clean TB. Took it for test drive and after about 10 minutes of driving it started doing the same thing. Took it to autozone to see if maybe they could pull a code even though there is no SEL on at the moment, but nothing came up. I am dreading if it's in drivetrain, i have only had the vehicle for about a week and a half. Bought it used from a private seller and it drove home fine the day i bought it and a couple days after, but now it's gotten worse than when it first started.
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My 2003' Explorer XLT (4.0L V6) has an oil leak. I tracked it down to the passenger side, rear, bolt head on the valve cover (back by firewall). I took it to a guy who replaced the valve cover gaskets, but it is still leaking. He claimed when he had the cover off he looked for any cracks on it, but did not see any at the time.
Anyways, I was searching around and found several explorers leaking in or around the same area of the valve cover. And it turned out that there issue stemmed from bad timing chain guides, causing the valve cover to crack.
I do notice that on a cold start, I hear a rattling when I first start it up. It rattles for maybe that first 1-2 seconds when starting. Is this my timing chain rattling around? If that is the case, how much this could set a guy back on repairs?
I guess I don't know whether to just replace the valve cover, or if I should dig into it to see if the real issue is the timing chain guides/tensioner. Mileage is approximately 121,000....
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When I make a quick start I get a clunk kind of sound that appears to be from the area near the transmission shift lever on the console between the seats. If I really do a jack rabbit start, it will clunk repeatedly until I let up on the gas or the car gets up to speed.
Is this a broken Engine or Transmission mount? 2005 Cadillac SRX....
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Noticing a somewhat regular sort of light tapping noise from Subaru CVT Outback, when slowing to stop or starting out?
Some days it's noticeable only for about a second after the clunk from shifting, often you can hear it a bit longer.
You can hear it best at about 1 min, and last 40 seconds of this short trip audio-clip.
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Transmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
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I have gear noise in my 2007 Liberty 4 X 4. It sounds like it is coming from the rear axle and is more pronounced under acceleration or decelleration.
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Checking in...the Ex is purring like a kitten and I love driving it. I still have some mods to do but for now she runs great. I still want to do leaf springs, rear sway bar, 35" tires and 18" rims, shocks and a new double din stereo. I will get to those after ai finish my boat project! First thing will be new shocks because the front ones are starting to make rattling noises when I hit small potholes.
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1992 Fod Explorer XLT: When I attempt to turn over the engine, the flywheel spins, but the engine doesn't. This is a very gently driven vehicle. I drove home hone day, backed into the driveway and unloaded the groceries. The next morning, when I tried to start it, the engine will not turn over. I dropped the starter and tested it--all good. While I had the starter off, I found I could spin the flywheel freely--appears to not be attached to the engine. It's tight with no play whatsoever. Last year I had a new flywheel installed--something I would do myself, but decided I'm at the age, I'm just not up for it. It's been running great for 18 months with no problems. There was never a noise. This just happened one morning. I thought the crank may be broken, but that seems unlikely since it was driving great until the next morning.
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My hubby hit a curb on vacation last weekend and now it sounds like something is grinding and we can both feel vibrations (on both driver and passenger floor) it does not do it when stopped. We had to cut the bottom of the under carriage away from the tires due to it rubbing, thinking that was what the noise was, but its only getting worse.We just changed the CV joint on the driver side in March at the same time. We do know he has a small exhaust leak but it was never making this sound until he hit that curb.. I really don't want to take it to a shop to have it looked at if I don't have to, I normally do all the work myself.
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Since the weather got colder I've been getting really loud, squealing belt noises. They happen mostly when I turn on the car. They sound like when I had an old Altima and turned on the A/C the belt would squeal. But the sound happens even with no air turned on or defogger turned on. And it happens sometimes when I make a really sharp turn around when I first start the car. After it's warmed up I generally don't hear it. Also, sometimes having my foot on the brake will change how long the sound lasts for. I'd like to know what belt this would be and if just WD-40 should be used for now (or some type of belt dressing) OR if it's detrimental not to get work done on it. Also let me know if I'm able to tighten it myself or if that's better left. I replaced a valve cover gasket a few months ago so that's about the extent of my abilities at this point.
It's a 2003 Hyundai Accent Automatic...
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I have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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2003 Ford Sport Trac with 4.0L SOHC engine
I started having this problem after I decided to do a tune up because of another minor unrelated problem (start up taking 2+ cranks sometimes and fine when gas is full... I'm going to replace the fuel pump for that but not until i resolve the more pressing issue)
Before the problem I had spark plugs and wires (all but #3) replaced by my dad and he also put in some Fuel Cleaner into the gas tank. He took it to a local mechanic and had the mechanic replace the #3 spark and wire and check the others and also replace the fuel filter.
After that my car was taken to jiffy lube where engine oil was changed... as well something else but I dont know what because no one is able to tell me.... my dad had one of his employees take it and the employee took it upon himself to get other things done but he doesn't know what.
And then when I got my car back after the weekend is when this issue started.
First I noticed a rattling (like a plastic is caught on a fan blade and it is hitting something as it goes round and round) right after engine is started. And on the roads, when I try to accelerate, it will accelerate- but very slowly as if my engine had no power.
When I floor my gas pedal, the car will continue to drive at a constant speed and I can start to hear a really fast rattling which I am not sure if it is the same thing making the rattling sound I hear at start up.
I've gotten the following codes : 300, 301, 303, 316
I have since then had my spark plugs rechecked, wires for #1, 2, 3 and 4 replaced with another brand. There was no long term change but I have noticed that every time messed with the wires (when spark plugs were changed, when wires were changed and when sparks were checked... etc) for about 3 drives right after it the car feels more powerful and smooth and then it will go back to driving like crap.
I have also changed the CKP sensor (advice of the Auto Zone) and there has been no change.
I have also replaced the coil pack this weekend and no change.
I have bought the more expensive wires but didn't change them since 2nd set for 1, 2, 3 and 4 has not made changes.
Currently: Only thing I have more noticed is that the car when first driven, feels okay at start up. I can accelerate from 0 to 30 with decent power and time and as long as i dont floor the gas and only lightly depress the gas the car will continue to accelerate with decent power and speed.
However, anytime the engine is strained (like going up a hill) I loose speed. and AFTER any time the engine is strained, i will no longer be able to accelerate with decent power and time.
The car at this point feels like it it trying, almost sounds and feels gritty if that makes any sense, and if i try to at least keep speed, the engine sounds change but no increase in speed. At this point I usually just try tapping lightly on the gas and it will eventually get upto 30mph and of course more effort to go beyond and continually increase the speed.
It takes me a good few minutes for me to go from 0 to 35 and another few minutes to get upto 45. (Now everyone drives around me after a complete stop because I cannot even get to 20 right away like most normal working cars.)
I really would hate to replace one part at a time to play guess and check but I also don't know any true mechanics in the area that can really drive, listen and look and determine what exactly is going on without playing guess and check with every little and big parts that are involved. I have seen some people replace the intake manifold, O2 sensors, CKP/CAM sensors, cylinders...
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I have a 2000 F250 super cab and the doors rattle going over bumps. I've seen the weather stripping mod and intend to do this but my drivers side doors are touching at the top. Would this indicate that the busings are shot? With the doors open, when I lift on the outer edge there is no movement in the hinge area. The drives door and drivers side back door actually touch and rub at the top. Any pointers?
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1990 Ranger 5 speed... The tranny has recently started making noises, first I thought it was the throw out bearing but I am afraid it is more than that. As I go thru the gears the trans makes rattling/grinding sounds: in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th it is loud but 4th it is quiet. What might be going on inside the tranny....
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I have a 2003 excursion... it is a v 10and just yesterday there was a whistling noise. I parked the vehicle and idle it slowly but no noise. I drove it again n the noise was there again. So the noise is there at 2000-2500 rpm. I'm wondering if its my exhaust manifold?? Also I'm starting to loose power. When running and in parked it shut off.
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