Ford - Explorer :: Left Rear Power Window Lowers But Does Not Raise Back Up
Aug 7, 2014
2010 Explorer XLT. The left rear power window lowers, but does not raise back up with the driver's master control switch (the 4 switch control on the driver's door). It does, however, lower and raise fine with the single switch on it's own rear door. Thinking it was a bad master switch module on the driver's door, I replaced it and the same thing still happens - works fine with it's own single switch but will only lower and not raise with the driver's door switch. All the other windows work fine. This has me totally stumped.
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I have a 2012 accent. Left front window rapidly clicks when I try to raise and lower glass and glass won't move.
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I purchased a 1985 celica GTS, convertible, rear wheel drive. I am having a problem with the drivers side power window. I can raise and lower the window with a direct 12v battery hook up to either the lift motor or from the terminals that connect to the switch. The switch will lower the motor but not raise it. When activated to raise the window you can hear the motor enterguise but will not lift. I check the voltage at the switch and I am getting 12 volts. What should I check next?
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My wife's 2006 Camry left rear power window motor is bad.
I already checked the plug and there is voltage when I use the switch.
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My left rear window is stuck in the down position. I thought the motor was burnt out because it was very hot, so I got a new one and replaced it and the symptom was the same. So I plugged the old "bad" motor into the harness and when I turn the key on it starts spinning, which would explain why it was so hot when I took it out. I'm guessing I've got a bad relay or something but where do I look now?
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My daughter has a 94 explorer xlt 4 dr. The window motor regulators are going out. I replaced one of the front ones and decided I'd just make the parts needed next time. All that was really wrong with the front was the little plastic slugs were crushed. They are easy enough to make.
Tonight I tried to remove one of the rear motors, so I could open it up and get the measurements I needed. I found 2 screws that secure the motor, but that's not all that holds it. It seems to be mounted with a spot welded stud as well. There is a small dimple in the door panel in the approximate area.
Before I start drilling things that might not need drilled, I thought maybe I better check here first. How is this supposed to be removed ? The Haynes manual for it tells nothing as to the removal and replacement of any of the window motors. Is the reg inside the gear head anything like the front door motors ?
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I have a 2003 ford explorer and the back hatch window exploded on my son when he closed it. Glass shattered everywhere even on him. I was told there was a recall on this and ford has stated they were replaced but previous owner says they didn't have replaced. How do I know the difference in the recall hinges and new ones? If the hinges were replaced why would the window shatter like this?
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The rear (side) pop-out windows on my '02 X have begun to sag at the back of the truck. They operate just fine, but the glass is actually touching the body when they are closed.
It's hard to get a good picture, but I've included a couple anyway.
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I have a 2013 5.0 and every time I change the oil filter the oil runs out the front and back of the cross member. That welded on oil catch plate doesn't work. The suspension is stock and I'm wondering if I lift the rear of the truck with a floor jack will it get the oil from the filter all run out the front of that catch plate?
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I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport, and to remove the rear passenger window. The car is a two door, and the passenger windows are the smaller "flap" out style. I was able to remove the two torx screws on the hinge itself, but the glass portion is held in some sort of bracket, and I'm having trouble removing that.
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I have a 1997 ford explorer, the passenger side rear window only works in one direction, I have tested motor and it does work in both directions reversing the polarity, checked switch by checking voltage on each prong of plug (where motor plugs into harness), and does get 12 volts on each line as switch is being activated,I think there may be a ground problem on the one side that does not work, where to start looking??
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So today, when I rolled down my passenger window (2007 Sonata GLS) to talk to someone, I heard a popping sound and the window refused to roll back up. I got the car home and started tearing into the door panel (okay, not literally). By viewing different threads here, I have the door panel off, outside handle is off, all screws loosened (including the 3 for the door latch) and am trying to get the inner sheet metal panel off.
From everything I've read, you need to roll the window up the whole way in order to get the inner panel off; however I cannot get the window up the whole way! By lifting up on it, I have it about 2/3 raised, but it won't budge any more. I have been able to see that the window cable is broken (which explains why the window won't raise), but am at a loss on how to proceed. I'm leery of trying to force the window up any more. I'm tempted to try to pry the inner panel back enough to get the two bolts holding the window loose, but don't want to force *that* either.
So, how to get the window all the way up? And/or the inner door panel off?
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So I decided to drive my car this morning after almost 2 weeks of it sitting in the garage, got to the parking structure, pushed the button to lower the windows so I can swipe my auto parking card and it rolled down fine. Then tried to close the window and heard this metallic clicking sound and the window wouldn't raise. Called the dealership and drove right to them to look into it. Now I am stuck with a Jetta until my car is fixed.
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I bought my first vehicle last October, a '99 F-250 with a 6.8 V10. I later found out (AFTER hauling a big load of rocks in a dump trailer) that one of the bottom leaf springs was broken. So this winter I have been thinking on what I want to do about it when it warms up. This is pretty much on top of the "to do" list for my truck. I did make a thread about putting 1 ton springs under it, but I think I'll just stick with the regular 3/4 ton springs. So now this is where I have another question, and I think this pic will tell some of it:
Now I'm not sure if those rear springs are stock, but that rear end is way the heck up there! The truck itself is not level, the front looks to be correct height, but not the back. A buddy at school and I were talking about a leveling kit for the front. But the more I look at it, I think the rear end should come down. I don't want to get bigger tires, as I just put brand new Transforce AT's on the back and plan to put new ones on the front in the near future.
Another question of mine is, would this have been a truck ordered just for pulling a camper? It has holes for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed, the rear end sits high, and it didn't come with a tow package. The PO told me that he put the receiver hitch on it. I'm fixing up stuff on it one thing at a time. Springs just happen to be next on the list.
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My 04 Explorer 4WD sways left and ten to the right over and over when driving 60-70 mph and steering slightly to the left. Feels like something might be loose. It veers to the left then suddenly back to the right until I drive straight. Seems better at slower speeds and driving straight ahead.
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2005 Sport Trac 4x4... So, my fiance purchased this new off the floor before i met her (or else she wouldn't have bought it). Had a motor issue which required a new motor after 90k miles.. Anyways, while driving on a normal road, i dropped the rear window and hear this whining noise. Checked the transmission fluid and it was a little low, nothing major. Topped it off with Mercon V... No effect. Where do i look next. It does not have a tow package. Do i check the transfer case, or rear differential?.I am thinking differential because the transfer case is more upfront to where the noise is. you cant hear it with front windows down. Only the rear sliding window or rear passenger's windows.
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2006 f-150 lariat 4wd:
The power Tailgate window works but the sunroof doesn't and i noticed tonight that the button for the tailgate window is illuminated green signifying it has power but the sunroof button right next to it is not illuminated. I just bought the truck yesterday and knew that the sunroof didn't work. i figured i could fix it i just am not sure where to start yet.
It looks like the sunroof might have leaked before and so the previous owner sealed it with silicone from the roof of the truck. i removed the silicone and made the sunroof free to open and close but i still have the issue that there is no power to the sunroof. i was thinking maybe the motor burned out because it couldn't move and that someone had tried to open it while it was glued shut, but that still doesn't explain the light not coming on.
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It seems my sunroof will open all the way and close but it will NOT raise up in the back those couple of inches it used. it just doesn't respond to the pressure on the switch....
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The left rear window in my 2004 has either come off track or the retainer/clip holding the window in the truck has broken. My problem isnt fixing it, it is getting the door panel off.
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My defrost & front vents work fine. My back vents that are in the back of the console switch from hot to cold like it suppose to, but they do not blow out enough to feel it in the back seat or third row seat.
Also when I use the heat the front flat part of the console by the drink holders especially gets red hot to the point it can melt plastic ink pen or anything else you lay there. which concerns me since I have a 9 yr old.
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I can usually track these down, but this one is eluding me. It seems to be coming from the rear passenger side and really only bad when turning left or veering left at slow speeds.
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