When I turn-on AC or defroster, motor idles rough then stalls. My mechanic says it is not related to CHECK ENGINE light or exhaust O2 sensor? I have an 02 Ford Explorer.
View 4 RepliesWe've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
I have a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4l v8...
Codes
P0012 int cam position timing over ret bank 1
P0022 int cam position timing over ret bank 2
P0300 random Missfire detected
P0316 engine misfire detected on start up
P0340 cam position sensor curcuit fault
P0345 cmp sensor a circuit problem bank 2
Starts rough, idles rough and stalls occur often when start, after it runs for 5 minutes and sometimes dint starts at all. I replaced spark plugs, coils, cam shaft sensors and had oil changes done and. No effect.
2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
View 6 RepliesI have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
View 13 Replies2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
View 1 RepliesAfter sitting engine cranks longer than it usually did before it starts. idles a little rough. engine light comes on after it been running about 30 sec for 1 min. after that seems to run fine.check codes po446 and p1633 always come up. if you let sit a bit with key on starts right up.replaced gas cap checked evap lines, and changed filter no luck. Did notice with lines off evap solenoid key off or on i can blow through it. that doesn't sound right.
Checked fuel pressure. key on jumps to 90psi then falls to 55psi and stays. turn off key and leaked off 10psi in 5 min.start engine while watching gauge does the same as when the key on except it falls to 30 to 35 psi and bounces between them. i think this is way low. What is the correct pressure? Shut off engine and drops to 20 in 5 min. Next I plugged line on test tee going to fuel rail and tested same results as key on. the convinced fuel pump was bad since regulator and check is there. replaced pump. problem still there.
My gti with 5k miles will be in the dealership 3weeks on Monday! No one has been able to diagnose the problem! I called VW corporate and they told me that the dealer was working with their tech support and engineers.
The problem is has really rough idle were it stalls out. Bank 1 and Bank 4 are misfiring. This is the part were they are stuck. Once they remove the oil cap the car runs perfect! It stops all misfires and idles perfect. They've ran smoke test, compression test, vacuum test. Replaced pcv, high flow fuel pump, intake manifold.
I just got a 4.6 4WD Explorer in for rough running. It had timing chain noise and some odd codes for primary coil H codes along with cylinder 8 misfire.
I replaced the coil to get rid of the "H" code and it was fine. Still misfires on 8, and I really don't care because it's coincidence that the timing could be affecting it or perhaps.... bent valves!
The vehicle starts and idles a bit rough. Can't go very fast, and of course I know I should run it as little as possible!
Here is the deal, how should I present this to the customer? Should I let him know that some valves could be bent after replacing the chain (and all associated parts) and that it could still be effed? Or will I be fine after replacing? Pretty much, where they had a tensioner failure/guide breakage and valves bent too?
I have an 01 olds alero, I been having problems with the engine stalling out. i was told it may need a new fuel filter so I replaced filter and now it idles rough till it stalls. What to do next? I replaced the plugs 2 years ago also.
View 1 Replies1995 Mazda Protege1.5 LAuto153K miles.
My car was running fine, then one day it started sputtering while driving, mostly when I accelerated. It stalled and I could not get it started. This happened on a day when it was raining hard, but not sure that had anything to do with it. A few days later when I went to pick the car up it started right up, it had stopped raining and been dry for 2 days prior. But about a mile into the drive back home it stalled and I could not get it started.
Here is what I have tested so far.
- Put in new fuel filter.
- Tested the fuel pressure and pressure regulator
- Tested the injectors with a noid light.
- Tested that the spark plugs were producing a spark.
After I pulled the plugs and cleaned and dried them (they were wet with gas) the car started, but I think not because of anything really related to the plugs. What I've noticed is that when cranking the engine if I give it gas it will not start but if I keep off the throttle it will reluctantly start. But once it starts the idle is smooth and as it should be. Then if I give it any gas it immediately stalls. It seems to me given these symptoms that it is getting enough air to idle but not enough air to match the increased gas.
The only CEL code that I'm getting (which I had before this issue occurred) is the "closed throttle position switch" (I forget the number). If it was an MAF, or IAC, or EGR issue would I not get a code? What this could be and how to test it. Again my guess is its an air intake issue but not sure where.
I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
View 4 Replies99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
I recently purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl. engine. The first 10 days I owned it it ran just fine. I then took a an hour drive to another city. After the first few stops there, as the temperature outside reached about 90, It started to sputter and idle very badly. After I got rolling it would would run fine. I decided to try to make it home. It ran fine at freeway speeds of about 70 mph. I had to stop once; it stalled out and would not start again. After waiting about ten minutes I tried again. It was still running rough, but I was able to get rolling and drove the rest of the way home without any problems until I was in town and had difficulty keeping it running at idle.
The next morning it ran fine again. A local mechanic changed the fuel filter, but the problem came back as soon as the temp neared 90 degrees. A mechanic friend who witnessed the problem said that it definitely sounded like a lack of fuel and not an electrical problem. Is there a way to troubleshoot without swapping parts? If the fuel pump is failing in warm weather, how is it possible that it runs fine at 70 mph, but not at idle? Engine temp gauge looks good. I did get one code after it died the first time (lean mixture, I think he said).
I'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
I have a 2004 F-150 crewcab, 4.6L with 118,000. I don't drive the truck often but for the past few months its stalls and cuts off, and idles poorly in reverse. Truck cutting off at low RPM's, low speeds, and after going over some bumps. At one point the engine light came on but now it is off and I am still having the issues. . . . not sure what code it would display. I have been reading articles and blogs and most say the TPS, MAF, or IAC is the problem.
View 2 RepliesIf I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
View 14 Repliesits 1986 Ranger with a 2.9L V6 Auto 4x4, well to start with it seriously over fueling also it idles very roughly and even stalls out sometimes, when I'm trying to hold it at a speed it acts like it is missing (I guess that's from over fueling as well and it also pukes out lots of black smoke, it goes through way too much gas for a V6), but when I speed up fairly hard it acts fine until I try to maintain speed again, I have already put a tune up into it and a new EGR as well a fuel regulator and how to fix it?
View 14 RepliesI have a really nice 1986 Ranger XLT with a 2.9 V6 (injected) and OD Automatic with about 135k miles. I've had the truck for over ten years and have been pretty happy with it. I'm still trying to correct a couple of nuisance items:
1. Sometimes it runs smoothly, and at others it has a rough idle, and once in a while it will even stall. Before it stalls, it idles or runs roughly, and will miss erratically. When it quits, it does not fade out like it is running low on gas; it quits suddenly, like the ignition is turned off. If I am driving at highway speeds, sometimes it will buck as it misses, and sometimes stalls out. But it always starts up right away afterwards. This does not happen often, but when it does, it happens several times over hours or days, and then goes away by itself for months, even years, and then comes back for another round.
I was hoping whatever was wrong would totally fail, but it has been several years and is not getting better, nor worse. Fuel mileage varies, too, from 16 to high 20's MPG. I have new low- and high-pressure fuel pumps (dual tanks), new gas and air filters, checked all the electrical connections, put in a new ignition switch, new O2 sensor, Air Flow sensor, EGR, replaced all the vacuum lines, new battery and cables, new starter, all new electrical relays, fuel pressure regulators, new fuel pump inertia switch, tuned up engine (incl. wires, cap, rotor, ign module, plugs and timing), and cleaned out the already sparkling-clean tanks.
2. My oil pressure will drop at idle to low-normal when the engine is warm. It never goes to below Normal on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge, sending unit, and oil pump. This is a long-term issue, and is not getting any better or worse.
I have a 97 Escort and recently started having idle problems. It would go up and stay up until I turned off the engine. It would also idle so low that it would stall out when I would stop at a traffic light. A TPS sensor code also appeared. I changed the sensor, but the idling problem continued. During the process of changing the TSP I also cleaned the IAC valve. The car would start with no problems, it just continued to idle rough, with the code returning. I researched how to test the TPS, did the test and discovered I had installed a bad(new)TPS. I reinstalled a new TPS and now the car won't start. WOW, one problem to another. It will turn over, but it will not start.
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