Background info: Had a blown head gasket and a mechanic used a sealant on it to patch it up. Car went from not turning on to running ok
Problem: at idle the engine creaks. It isn't a ticking or knocking but definitely more of a creaking sound. Can't figure out if this is safe for the car to be driven and what could be causing it.
I have a video of the sound .... Potentially a head gasket that was partially fixed maybe??
2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!
Coming from somewhere in the front half of the car, but I am not able to isolate to left, right or center. Jacked it up yesterday and sprayed WD40 on the sway bar bushings to see if it fixes it - nope. There doesn't seem to be any shifting in the strut towers. Haven't checked the subframe bolts yet. No creaking when front end is jacked so, only under load.
Started happening a few weeks after I installed the DG springs so not sure if it's connected or not. I made sure to replace all the stretch bolts as indicated and the job went smoothly.
Sound is like an old door's metal hinges type of creak. Creaks across the whole turning radius, which makes me think it's not the suspension but subframe or some other loose mount?
I've recently been having a metallic creaking/rattle go on when idle or moving at slow speeds. I took it in during my 20k service and they said there was something with a cable and the heat shield... the service manager had also said something about the catlytic converter - but when I re-checked the service slip - nothing. This was originally in March.
The noise came back again recently so I had a different dealer check it out when I finally had the fuel tank recall done. They confirmed the noise and checked the heat shield (I had told them about the original complaint), but said there wasn't much that can be done - they made sure all the bolts were tight, but the noise was coming from the heat shield "flexing."
Most of the time it's fine and the noise went away for several months. It's subtle again, but if it becomes constant - it seems like I have a valid argument to have the heat shield replaced - seems defective.
I have a 2000 Explorer, 4.0 V6 SOHC w/ 135K miles. All of a sudden it has an idle issue that's driving me nuts and the dealership can't fix. It has been in the shop 4 times for this problem so far.
It accelerates and cruises great, but when I come to a stoplight, the idle goes down to 900, then suddenly drops to 600 and idles rough. The "Check Engine" light is NOT lit. There is no hesitation, backfire or any other running problem. I have had plugs and wires, PCV valve, IAC valve and MAF sensor replaced. Technicians have checked for vacuum leaks and intake air gasket leaks and have found nothing.
I can "power brake" it and smooth it out some and even turning on the a/c or defroster boosts the idle and works a little. Shifting to neutral or park does not raise the idle like previous cars I owned. I only drive this car back and forth to work, about 1000 miles a month, and I'd like to make this Explorer last at least 200K miles. We just got a Ford Escape and I do not want another car payment right now!
After replacing a faulty spark plug wire on my '97 explorer, I started the engine (4.0 liter pushrod) and noticed the idle much lower than it was previously- to the point it now borders on stalling. The wire I replaced was on the right side (if facing engine from front) closest to the firewall. I thought I may have worked a vacuum hose loose when feeding the wire under the intake, but I checked and checked and saw nothing amiss. What I may've did (if anything) to cause this problem?
View 7 Replies1999 Explorer starts then will not idle unless it is put into gear. It only happens once in a while...
View 2 RepliesFriend of mine said that the air conditioning on her 2001 Ford Explorer only works when her car is in idle. She said that when she steps on the gas the fan continues to work but doesn't blow cold air. If she stops at a stop sign it works... and so on.
She has taken it to a shop that specializes in air conditioning and he checked and cleaned off a few connections (whatever that means) and thought that would do it but it didn't. She is going to go back this weekend.
I told her that I would think that a specialist would see the idle/drive issue as a good clue as to what the problem is.
2000 Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC.
It starts fine under all conditions but when cold, like in the 30s or lower, it doesn't want to remain idling, yet no CEL comes on. New fuel pump. The throttle body is cleaned, as are the injectors. It runs super once it gets past the cold startup issue.
I was thinking a sensor is getting weak but not weak enough to set the CEL.
When I start the truck it hard to start and the idle is rough but when it warms up it seems to get better but still miss fires now and then so i was thinking could it be a bad O2 there is now "CEL" because the battery was dead (installed a new one) and the truck has not been on the road yet (want to get everything fixed first) and update on the door alarm will be working on that tomorrow almost forgot 2002 explorer 4.0L "E" for the vin 4 wheel drive 124k on it.
View 5 RepliesI have some major problems with my explorer. The idle is rough and accelerating is rough also. If I nearly put it to the floor it almost seems like it studders the power. it will feel great for a second that feels like it's less power for a second then more and less and more and less. When I'm sitting at idle, it will idle fine then after a minute or so it will bog way down and shake the whole vehicle. when that happens I give it some gas and it comes back to normal idle then it does it again after sitting for another minute. I've replaced spark plugs, wires, alternator, oil change and some tires. I've been told by many mechanics it could be the IAC Valve or the fuel pump or the fuel filter or a vacuum leak.
View 8 RepliesMy explorer has been running a little rough, particularly at idle. When I take off from a rough idle, it'll run rough until I hit 25-30mph. I ran by O'Reilly's hoping to pick up a pack of spark plugs and be done with it, ended up leaving with a new MAF sensor. It ran better for about 10 miles (I'm a delivery driver, so I did a lot of stop and go immediately), before it ran even worse than it did before, but at least my CEL finally came on. Took it back to O'Reilly's and they read a MAF sensor code and a catalytic system code (didn't ask for the codes, and now realize that was a mistake).
So today I took it to a muffler shop to have the catalytic system diagnosed. They looked at it for 10 minutes and told me they didn't think it was the converter. They said it seemed more like the EGR valve or solenoid, or the IAC. He scanned the codes again and got multiple "running lean" codes (0171, 0174, etc). The guy said I didn't have a vacuum leak, so I think I can rule that out. Unfortunately, the truck idled fine the whole time so he didn't feel comfortable giving me a definitive answer. He told to to leave the EGR valve hose unplugged for a few days and see if anything changes. I'm thinking about running a bottle of fuel cleaner through it or taking off the IAC and/or EGR and cleaning them myself.
99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
View 7 RepliesI have tried playing with screw that controls throttle plate it does work at first allowing to reach 1200 rpm at idle however after stopping car and starting again it does go down to ~600rpm again like computer adjusts it back to desired level. There's also **** on Idle valve however turning it does nothing.
Is there way to reprogram computer to make 1200 a desired RPM?
Like try this yourself reach about 1200 rpm and then hold your leg still not looking at the rpm your once you hold it for a while it goes down to normal rpm, only way to hold constant 1200 RPM is to play with gas pedal.
I want to raise RPM to avoid misfire.
What can cause my 99 explorer xlt to have a rough idle on initial start ups?(Its worse in the winter time) And sometime after driving places when i put it in park the truck will cut off. It has the 6 cylinder SOHC if that's useful.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 explorer xlt 2 wheel drive 4 door. It's got 189,000 miles on it. It's shakes a lot on idle when put in drive. I've replaced a lot of stuff. I've also lost a lot of power. I can put the gas pedal to the floor and still not get enough power. The shaking feels like it's about the stall out but it doesn't. Oh and there a rear main leak if that works.
View 2 RepliesBought a used 2003 Explorer 4X4 that runs like crap.... All I know is it has new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery, new brakes, 2 new tires and new belts... suspension seems great and body is nice too. It obviously needed a new radiator and complete exhaust, so I did those. Now it is running better ( I can actually get the RPMs over 1500) but still running rough and will stall if I let off the gas. It will surge and dip in RPMs. Very suspicious of vacuum leak.
Unplugged the MAFS and it roared upon start but within a minute started the sputtering etc. Currently pulled the IAC and check continuity between pins and it was 10 ohms so that passed but there is no continuity between either pin and the case. So this seems to indicate I need to replace the IAC which I will do tomorrow. I would love to find a diagram that displays the vacuum system so I can make a thorough check of it. Also seems to have an oil leak on drivers side valve cover gasket.
1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
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