Ford - Explorer :: 2006 XLT Intermittent Engine Rev While Stopped At Stop Lights For No Reason
Sep 12, 2013
Engine revs excessively when I press accelerator to shift between 2 and 3 gear. It acts like the transmission is having problem "up shifting". However I had the transmission checked thoroughly and all checks out OK. New fluid, no leaks, compression good, bands good, no debris in housing etc. This engine rev also occurs while stopped at stop lights for no reason. (no acceleration, etc) I also notice the fan behind the radiator running at high speeds when engine is in idle mode. Fan revs and then slows and then revs again. Don't know if this is related.
Engine rev is not related to running the AC. It happens if AC is on or off. The fan rev and the engine rev are not the same sound or symptom.The vehicle runs fine when I first drive it on 40 mile trip to work in the AM. As the day goes on and the vehicle is driven more then the engine rev problem shows up. (again on an intermittent frequency). Question. Could a dirty fuel filter cause this engine rev. Question. What might be some things to check out to find and resolve this problem?
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We have a 02 Sport Trac that has intermittent brake light problem. All other functions for the bulb filament for the brake lights work! Turn signal and flashers work great. The brake light that is above the rear window works, BUT the brake lights on the rear of the Sport Trac work when they what to.
Right now I can not find a cause that causes them to not work or to work. This morning they worked in the garage but did not work as my wife pulled out of the driveway. Last night they did not work on part of the way home but worked coming into the drive way.
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My dash board lights up for no reason. All the lights -- seat belt, engine, oil, etc. Also the speedometer goes from 0 to 100, the RMP needle goes from 0 to whatever and my gas tank need goes from empty to full to back to empty. In addition it is now loosing power --no gas is getting where ever so I must pump gas peddle to get it going again. It usually lasts only seconds and there is NO rhyme or reason to when it does it. I left it with a dealership and they drove it 265 miles and it did nothing. I got it back and within 48 hours it started doing it again. They did put in a new instrument cluster and it still continues.
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I have a moonroof & there were no map light bulbs, so I tried putting them in place but the electric connection there wasn't so good (there is a plastic covered with wires) so the bulbs are in but it doesn't work. What worst is, that now all the interior lights (glove box & rear dome) don't work as well!! nor the power windows & moonroof don't work now (it worked before). I guess that I have touched something or a fuse broke... I don't know what to do...
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My 4 cylinder Sonata was so smooth at idle when I first got it that I couldn't tell the engine was running. Now there is some vibration noticable while sitting at stop lights (82,000 miles) .... Its gotten gradually worse but still isn't a big problem.
Is there anything typical that might cause this that I could fix? Its not extreme but there is a definite vibration that wasn't there when the car was new. My first thought was that one of the spark plugs is slightly fouled.
I usually change plugs at 75K miles so I need to do the plugs anyway. My thoughts are if its an engine mount the vibration would be much worse. Maybe its a vacuum leak somewhere ... don't know.
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The right turn signal on my 1998 Ford Explorer recently stopped working. The flasher was making a horrible buzzing sound when I tried to signal right, but worked fine signaling left.
I just replaced the flasher, which has cleared up the buzzing noise when trying to signal right. The flasher clicks like it's supposed to, but the lights still do not flash.
Here's a summary of the current symptoms:
-Hazard lights work fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Left right signal indicator works fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Right turn signal does not work
-Flasher clicks
-Interior indicator stash off; exterior lights stay off
What to check next???
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Like the title says. 04 Explorer.
No transmission issues ever. Immediately after doing an oil change myself for first time, get some transmission dropouts, slipping out of gear at stop lights, waiting way too long to go into 2nd, etc.
Then, started getting OD off light, and service engine. Error codes show something about wrong setting for 2nd, 5th, solenoid error... a bunch of 'em.
Anyway, guy at parts store says I must have knocked a wire loose causing misreads between cpu and transmission. It's a real pain getting under there since I'm using jack stands, so exactly what I should be looking for or at least the exact name of a connector or something so I can look it up.
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My 2007 Explorer (XLT, V6 4.0L, 4WD, 175k miles) has been experiencing a check engine light, intermittently, for the past few months. I took it to AutoZone to read the code and they gave me a printout for P0193. For awhile, the light would go off after I filled the tank with gas (usually the next day) and would come again as the level in the tank decreased (typically around 1/4 of a tank). Then about two months ago, the behavior seemed erratic and I could no longer predict when it would appear. During the past couple of weeks I only recall seeing the CEL once (briefly); it's mostly been off. Saturday night I was out driving and it came on again.
About two hours later, my vehicle "conked out" on me. It started hesitating (it's been a very long time since I've run out of gas, but that's what it reminded me of). Fortunately, there was no traffic and I was able to get it off the road but didn't have enough momentum to get it into a defined parking space before it quit. I sat there for awhile pondering my options (not too many since it was the middle of the night and I don't have road service). After about 10 mins or so, I decided to see if I could get it started. It did start and I was able to drive it home (< 10 miles). It's been sitting in the driveway since because I'm afraid of getting stranded if I drive it again. BTW, I was low on gas when it died -- about 50 miles to E (was headed to the gas station when it happened, but took it home instead).
After everything I've read the past few days, I'm expecting that I need to replace at least the fuel filter, the fuel rail pressure sensor and the intake gaskets for the manifold. I am not a mechanic, don't have diagnostic tools, my funds are really limited right now and I'm pretty much on my own to figure this out.
Q1: For those who may have some knowledge about this particular issue, does the intermittent nature of the CEL give any clues to which part(s) might be malfunctioning?
Q2: I found a replacement FRPS made by Bosch on Amazon, significantly cheaper -- is this brand ok or should i stick to Motorcraft?
Q3: Any advice on the manifold gasket replacements (is one brand better than another)?
Q4: Do I really need the special tool to replace the fuel filter?
The questions above are no longer relevant. I'm in the process of "locating" the sensor. I have the air hose and throttle body off. Now I'm looking at the EGR valve. It looks like I will have to disconnect the it from the large pipe beneath it. Will I also need to remove the two smaller bolts that mount it to the manifold cover, or can I remove the cover & valve together? It looks like those little buggers are going to be challenging since they are facing the back of the engine compartment. This is rather slow-going for me, but there's no turning back now.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe with approximately 126000 miles on it. The problem is, the majority of the time, the car runs great but sometimes the check engine light will come on and then a short time later, the car will start to basically shake when I come to a stop at a stop sign or light. So basically, it is doing this while in Drive, but if I put the car in Park, then it stops shaking. Not sure why it does this and like I said, it will do this and then after driving it for a while, the check engine will go back off and it doesn't do any of the shaking. Seems to always come back though. What this could be?
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2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
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I have a 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer with Towing Package. I just recently bought a Trailer and when they tested my 7 pin plug, I was only getting Running lights and 12v Charging. Im not getting Left/Right Blinkers or Brake. There is NO power. I checked all Fuses. The problem is, I cant find the Blinker/Brake fuse. The manufacture book does not show one.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-250 Powerstroke. At times when stopping at light or for any reason, I give it gas but it does not want to go. It's like it is not even registering that I am pushing the pedal. I shift it into neutral and rev it up then switch it back to drive and it goes and puffs out smoke. What is going on?
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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So this has happened multiple times now. its always when I'm slowing down or at a stop. I have Apr stage 3 software with rfd. I ran the car for codes a couple of weeks ago and there were none. its a little scary since its done it at highway speeds when in neutral and the revs have dropped out. I still have ignition/terminal 15 power but the engine is no longer running. today I was at a stop light and the car died out. it took several attempts cranking it over to get it started, I was in busy traffic and it got a little worrisome. also I'm driving my kid around and can't have this happen anymore. Without any faults I'm not sure where to start since I don't have factory software.
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I have 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse with ~105K miles on it. I bought it 3 months ago. It has a strange problem. The RPM starts to drop, whenever I stop at signals or stop signs, or stop for any other reason. It comes back to normal when I turn off the fan. I am not sure what is going on.
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Suddenly my brake lights quit. Press the brake and nothing. Turn on the headlights and the rear lights turn on. Press the brake and no change. It's like I am not pressing the brake. What are the first things I should check?
2008 Accent GLS 66,000 miles
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It's a Ford Freestar 2006, with 73,000 miles. We had to have the catalytic converter replaced within the first year we had it at no cost to us do to a solid engine light that we immediately took care of. The original was found to be defective. The only symptom it had was it would run rough at around 40-45miler per hour. After the converter was replaced it ran fine w no issues. The in Dec of 2014 it came back on after I had been driving for over 30mi and then idulling for 20min in a school line. I called the shop immediately and took it in the next business day...I didn't drive it at all that weekend. The mechanic checked it out and found nothing wrong with it.
Our best guess was I had let the gas run down to low (first time ever I had driven w it's the idot light on). They did an oil change and still everything checked out ok. During the transmission fluid check they told me I should hear the transmission fluid flushed and replaced in the near future but it wasn't needed right away. The van has done fine until this last week. We've had a lot of rain and fog...my husband ran it for a few days and said it did fine. Then this morning I took my husband to his truck...we had been driving for 40min with speeds up to 50mph.I had idyldeld for about 15min while he loaded his truck with no rough running. NO ISSUES. It was raining and very foggy!!! After I dropped him off and went back the exact same way, about 10min later and going about 50mph suddenly the check engine light started to blink.
I wasn't in a safe place to pull over, so I slowed down, put my hazards on, and vegan praying. I was going to try and get to the Sheetz which was about a 1/4 mile ahead of me. It blinked for 3min and it was off. The van never ran rough, jerked, shook, or anything. I Drove it further to church and asked for one of the guys to check it out. NO CODE!!! Said to keep an eye on it and call the er mechanic on Mon morning. Keep it to speeds under 40. Is it truly safe to drive to church in the morning and take the kids to school????? Was it a false code??? Is it the transmission???? I've never had a van this messed up!
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Today I was informed by a passing motorist that my brake lights had stopped working. Upon checking, they were right. The lights do not come on at all when the brake is pushed, including the center one. When my headlights are on thought, they do light up, just do not brighten when the brakes are hit.
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Tail and dash lights would go out unexpectedly, so I would turn light switch off and then back on and they would work. After about a week they stopped working all together...I checked all fuses related to the lights and dash as well as bulbs.
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I have an '07 Hyundai Sonata (4 cylinder) with the sunroof and XM. Yesterday, someone nearly hit me with their car and told me that my brake lights stopped working. I went home and tested it out and it doesn't seem to work at all. (The third brake light died out a week ago). I checked fuses and they seemed to be okay, tried replacing them with spare ones and still doesn't work (My old rover always had fuse problems). Bulbs look fine and they're definitely not burned out.
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