Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - Blender Door Malfunction In Heating System
Jan 29, 2011
I believe my 2004 Ford Explorer has a blend door problem in the heating system. It won't stay open and makes a clicking sound constantly, thus providing no heat! In past discussions I found one that says this is a major fix. I can't afford to take it to a dealer. My brother is an "old style" mechanic who can work on older (50's,60's,70's)cars and is not familiar with new technology or electronics. Could a person do this job easily or should I sell it and get a newer car?
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I have a SAAB 2000 95, and the heat isn't working. I was told by a local shop that the blend door motor isn't opening to allow the system to switch from air to heat. He said that the heating system was working, but that the hot air can't exit the dash. He said it would have to be repaired at a dealership.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
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I just noticed that my rear heat doesnt work. The A/C DOES work, however. Where to start troubleshooting?
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Rear heating system in my Lexus GX470 only blows cold air, what could be the problem. Front heater works fine.
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When I turn on the heat, I only get hot air through the drivers side vent,the passenger side vent is very cold. I had it in to be worked on (at a Non-Toyota shop)and they tore it completely apart and could not diagnose the problem. It affects the entire system,meaning the air going to defrost is also hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.
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i have been searching forums and cant find nothing with this exact problem. i have been having a problem with my ML stereo system, i have a 2007 Lexus Ls460L, like a week ago my driver side door speaker was going in and out then it just cut out completely, 3 days later all my door speakers and sub went out but all my highs are still on playing normal i see post saying the amps go bad but everyone says a chirping noise or no sound but i have sound but only in for my highs i have no bass at all.
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I own a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 OHV V6. What would cause the heat to not work properly? The engine temp gets into the operating range as it should and the coolant flows well. I'm just not getting more than 10 degrees above outdoor air from the heater.It doesn't matter where the controls are set, anywhere from defrost to vent makes no difference.
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My problem is this. I hear my transmission shifting through my heating system. I will explain. When I have my heating system on I hear my transmission shifting like a humming. The transmission shifts just fine. When I turn off my heating system the hum goes away.
The truck is a 2012 F4 ecoboost with 149000 Km or 92000 miles.
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Problem and background: for PRIUS 2004 Gen 2 , 157000 km, not getting READY to drive.
1.Warning signals on Power ON, red triangle, yellow color engine, brake, ABS, skidding. Also the PARKING BRAKE RED signal (by the side of seat belt warning signal), does not disappear even if I release the foot brake.
2. Gear can move to N and parking P only, can't move to Drive D or Reverse R. No READY symbol,
3. I left the car in that location in open for a month, during heavy rain. But after coming back , the car had no issue and I was driving for 4 days before this issue started.
what I have tried:
1.Have removed the 12 Volt battery terminals and connected back, just to see if the errors disappear. No change. But did not check the battery voltage or suspect it . disconnected and connected the HV service plug.(orange color lever behind rear passenger seat).
2. Have been switching ON and off the car for 1 full day, First day the local Toyota service (non-prius), came to connect to OBD late evening, he switched on the interior lights and left doors open, within 10-15 minutes the lights started dimming. Before he could pull the information, all shutdown and 12V battery down. his measurement at battery without removing any terminal showed 3.6V.
3. The second day took the battery out and charged at local battery service guy for 6 hrs, he say's charged at 3A, the indicator showed green, that means fully charged, his measurement with no load 12V. After connecting to the car myself, checked the voltage at display by putting to diagnostic mode, showed 12 volts (only with display on) with headlight on and pressing brake drops to 11.6volt. IS THAT OK?
4. The third day got the new battery and replaced, showed the same voltage 12/11.6v, but I can't be 100% sure if that is a brand new battery, the box was open, and since the car didn't start, the battery sales person has taken back the new battery in the same box. I connected back the old battery, it was holding the same voltage. SHOULD I still SUSPECT BATTERY?
5. I can make the READY indication blink twice, if I press hard the brake pedal and hold the POWER button few seconds, during this time I can hear CLICKING NOISE behind at HV BATTERY SERVICE PLUG grip? does that say something?
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Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
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I have a 2004 Prius with 80k miles. Always has been a workhorse. Recently had a bad cell in the HV battery. Battery rebuilt with new cell and now works great.
Now it runs about 20 miles and then displays dash lights of red triangle and small exclamation (brake?) and VSC.
I took it to Advance Auto and their scanner reads C1310 'Malfunction in HV system'.
I actually replaced the entire HV battery again with the battery from my friend's car, and the 12V battery too, but no luck. Same error.
If i disconnect the 12v battery for a while, it will clear the code and the car runs fine for about 20 miles and then dash lights come on again.
Car runs perfectly, over 50mpg even with the dash lit up. What that code is?
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C1241 is low voltage warning and C1223 is an ABS control system malfunction.
Are or could these be related? Where should I start to troubleshoot the issue?
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I have a 2008 Prius with 106,000+ miles on it. It was running fine till 2 days ago, I didn't start it yesterday and today when i went to start it, I get the Hybrid System Malfunction light, along with check engine, the red triangle and TPMS light. The gas engine tries to start up, then 1 second later makes a grinding noise and turns off.
I am in Toronto and its cold, but not THAT cold yet. So I am doubtful its temperature related. I checked the fluids and they all seem to be sufficient (engine oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid). I didn't notice any leaks under the vehicle either.
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I have a 2006 prius I got used and in good condition about 3-4 years ago. I never had any problems until a cop pulled me over and it turned out my parents had decided not to notify me they hadn't renewed my registration and my insurance they've been paying had ran out. I've since learned my lesson on keeping up with the dates.
I "luckily" got to go home with just some tickets. It sat about 2-3 months until I could get the money to line everything out. I ran it at least once a week but apparently that wasn't enough? Now that everything's up to date I started driving it and the yellow circle with the (!) in it is on. The Master system light, the check malfunction light, and the hybrid system light is on.
It seems like it applies the brake when I'm driving constantly now. It stalls when I first try to speed up. And the fan? on the passenger side of the back seat is always running for some reason. I tested my battery volt and it's at 9.2.
I took it to an auto shop today in town. I live in WV in the backwoods. And they wouldn't hook it up to check for codes and referred me to a dealer about 30 min. away... I've never had any problems with this car before.
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Have an early 2004 US Phaeton with the smaller sound system. Everything works normally on the system, but when putting some commercial CD's into the player can yield some really nasty clipping (clicking on drum-beats or other high-frequency sound) on the loudest sections. The clipping only occurs on the loudest sections, irrespective of how high the volume control is, and it only occurs when listening to the CD.
This is either a defect in the digital/analog converter in my particular unit, or it's a design defect with the whole series. For techies, the highest bit (#15) in the D/A is feeding an overload signal into the analog path of both channels. This symptom also could occur on CD's you burn yourself if you tend to record your CD's really loud (right up to the limit of CD dynamic range).
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I have a 2004 Explorer with 167,000 miles that has begun to display erractic messages such as, check charging system, low tire pressure, AvTrac off and about everything there is. Reset and everything looks good then messages start again. I am thinking computer module.
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My wife's 04 GX deflates sometimes when we park it, you can clearly hear a loud "whooshing" noise occasionally when we park it in our garage. The rear then goes to the lowest possible setting, it looks odd laying that low. Because it's not my car, I don't know if it always did that, but it seems "new" to me.
The deflation sound is coming from the rear mounted compressor on the rear driver side, I went under the car to investigate. It also appears that the air bags themselves aren't leaking, I raised the car to the highest setting, and it stayed there without the compressor kicking on or any leaking noise.
My guess is maybe the sensors need to be replaced, the thing is, I don't want to "shotgun" parts at a problem and spend $500 or so dollars on new sensors to experiment. How do I know the rear is behaving correctly?
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Alternator on my 2006 GX failed, caused battery to discharge and vehicle stopped. Alternator was replaced, battery (was new) is testing fine. All electronics and indicator lights normal except Nav system. Display reads insert proper disc. I have ejected and reloaded disc multiple times, no change. Disc is OEM, one release back.
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I thought this might be a little difficult but it wasn't at all. Simplest door panel that I've ever pulled off.
first remove the panel that goes around the door handle, gently pry it up in the front where the speaker grill meets the panel, use a couple of flat head screw drivers for this. It will pop up once the tabs are released, then you can remove it.
Then remove the window/lock control panel, the front of this will need to be gently pulled up and then you can remove it by sliding it forward. Don't pry up on the rear or you can break the tab off. Unplug the three wire connectors/plugs. A small flat head will work with this.
Remove one 7mm screw behind the panel that you just removed, then remove the two 7mm screws on the very bottom of the door panel.
Now simply lift the door panel straight up and then outward, remove the last wire connector for the power mirrors & it's off.
I also replaced the outside door handle & lock assembly. It was very easy as well. just a 12mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet & small flat head screw driver.
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I have always had a occasionally burning smell in the cabin when I am using the heating system. Has never happened in summer. Only happens randomly in winter when I am using the heat. I don't think I have seen steam and stuff and definitely no water puddle in footwell area. This strongly makes me think that I have a leak in the heater core area, maybe not the core itself, just o-rings and things like that. Vw has checked many times and replaced the valve gaskets. But the smell is still there. This morning when the smell came, I opened up the hood immediately and I think the smell was around the passenger side plenum chamber area.
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