I have an '03 Ford Explorer (V8) and recently had a rebuilt engine installed (at 135,000 miles). As soon as I got the car back, the engine whined and it's getting louder. The whine starts immediately but it louder when the accelerator is pressed. The sound reminds me of a car with bad power steering, but it's so much louder and doesn't correlate to turning the wheel, but pressing the gas pedal.
View 6 RepliesFord Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
View 2 RepliesFord Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
View 4 Replies2006, 112k mi. there's been a whine-like noise that only happens when the accelerator is pressed ( and mostly noticed at highway speeds) and stops immediately when accelerator is released..
View 10 RepliesI have an issue with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel and stalling when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released.
Background: Initially the truck would not start, and from there here are all the things that I found wrong and replaced. (keep in mind that I troubleshot all the issues and every part that was replaced was proven faulty)... Starting with the glow plugs, all but 3 were faulty and not making a connection to ground. (only one broke off in the head, but I was able to get it out with out getting anything in the cyl)..
Valve cover gasket and harnesses, this is to include replacing the connectors on the engine harness cause both sides of the connectors were broken. The ICP was leaking into the connector and breaking the connection to the PCM, so the connector was cleaned and the sensor replaced. No issues from that now.
The IPR was replaced cause the oil pressure was erratic and not stable when I had my pressure gauge hooked up testing the pressure. After that was replaced the pressure was ok, and it climbed with RPM's and fell back down like it was suppose to. I could not get the PSI up to 3000 PSI even at full RPM's, but it did not drop past 600 psi.
The fuel tank was recently replaced, and all the fuel was removed and "fresh/good" fuel was put in. The fuel bowl was cleaned out and the filter replaced. (the fuel bowl did have a lot of crap in it like rust and dirt). Fuel pressure was at 95 PSI last time I checked, which is higher than the recommended 60 to 65 PSI.
That being said the engine did start and run, but was very rough and missing. So I did all the injector o-rings. Some o-rings were starting to split, and others were not sealing like the copper washer on the injector tip. I could tell by the amount of crap in the end of the injector. ( not the tip, but where the injector contacts the injector cup. There must have been water in there or something cause that part had all kinds of crap around it)
The engine smoothed out after a couple day of running it, but it would still stall when it was cold. The block heater was replaced cause it was falling out. The oil was changed and the filter too. The CMP sensor was changed just because I know they will cause the engine not to start. I had a "known good" truck that I can swap part to and from, and I did a lot of that thus far.
Swapped the IDM, PCM, EBP sensor, MAP sensor, all relays inside the engine and in the cab. I was looking for the barometric pressure sensor, but from what I have read thus far that is a calculation in the PCM between the MAP and the EBP sensors. The diode to the PCM is good,I checked the harness for rubbing by the 42 pin connector and by the LF fender but I did not find any chaffing or rubbing on any wires. The ECPR was wired together, so I fixed it so that it is no longer that way, and the waste gate for the turbo was wired open. I took the wire off and made sure the linkage worked and it did move. I tried to lube up the valve in the turbo for back pressure, but I'm not sure if it worked or not.
I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure temp sensor on the HPOP Reservoir, and blew out the EBP sensors tube. (air went straight through the tube with no restrictions.) I did a buzz test and all the coils checked out ok. I also did a contribution test and only three cylinders were identified as having some kind of issue. (but this is not enough to cause the engine to stall..) The only current codes that I have are the air intake heater, and the EF feedback not detected. Neither of which would cause the engine to stall in my opinion.
Symptoms:
When cold: The engine will start and idle just fine, but when the accelerator is pressed and held to 1000 RPM's the engine will sputter like its missing and surge up and down between 500 and 1100 RPM's. If the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly the engine speed to increase then fall down and stall. It seems as if the PCM is shutting down and starting back up. ( Like the key is turned off and then back on quickly, but the engine doesn't recover)
When warming: This issue becomes more erratic, but when hot the engine is fine. No issues, and it will drive all day long with no hesitation.
The truck has over 200K on it, but I know it will go more! It is a mannuel tranny, and is a 4X4, and I love it, I can't get ride of it just yet.
Just Bought an 05 Passat 1.8T about month ago. It has 80k miles on it. I was driving down a road going about 40 mph and all of the sudden the engine is not responding to the pressing of the accelerator, everything else was normal. So I coast into a nearby parking lot. Car won't start, all lights come on and but would not turnover. Got it towed, few days go by, now car turns over but immediately dies.
No codes read on it. The dealership will not cover a diagnostic or anything fuel related.
On a cold crank the engine idles rough until it warms or the accelerator is pressed down. Also runs rough going up hills or towing. Check engine light is on and is throwing the code for bank 1 to lean and cat performance below threshold. Cats have been tested, good. Fuel trim tested, good. One mechanic said noth8ng is wrong with it well, there is. 2011 f250 6.2 gas...
View 5 RepliesMy 09 has a whine that sounds like a old power steering pump whining. Gets louder as you rev the engine.Its not real loud and could live with it but just erks me to have that noise on a 60,000 mile car.Does these new electric motor driven power steering cars actually have power steering fluid ?
View 6 RepliesIts a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 explorer with 6000 original miles, the truck was only used to go to the corner store by my past in laws, the tires which I have just replaced were the original Michelin with the date code 0303, the problem I am having is a fairly loud whine/hum during acceleration between 50mph and 65mph, I live in the Florida keys and trust worth mechanics are far and few between so I brought it to my Ford dealer which I buy body parts from all the time, after a test drive the service adviser said that they will have to remove the pumpkin put it on the bench and inspect it, I said ok, they called me back into the shop and showed me the unit, the tech said that I had metal filings in the unit and it was out of alignment, I saw the filings, which included the ring, pinion all inner bearings, the two outer shaft bearings and the two dust seals and oil, I verified this and the price seams to be right....my question is the labor they want to charge me 8 hrs to do the work. The rear end is a 355, not Limited and not traction.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 explorer where the pinion bearing has started to go, now the rear is starting to whine. the truck is a 2003, its a limited, with the 4.6 v8 in it. I would like to swap the rear with another used one, rather than rebuild the diff. the car is AWD, has a hitch receiver so I would imagine it has the tow package, my question is could I grab a rear out of a non AWD explorer, or one that had the 4.0 in front of it? something with the same gear ratio but out of a similar, non exact car, it has the advancetrac in it with the push button on the center console.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford f-250 super duty 6.0 turbo diesel. I noticed yesterday that it was making a jet sound when i pressed the pedal and got louder as i increased the speed. When you let go of the pedal it goes away. I have asked around and some say it could be the turbo...the diesel mechanic THINKS it could be the fan clutch. The truck doesn't overheat and if i punch it i don't think i sense any loss of performance. All I know is that it makes this sound like a plane taking off.
View 14 RepliesMy truck seams to have developed a whine. It gets louder with increased RPM. Sounds like its coming from the motor, specifically the front of the motor, maybe one of the pulleys? Water pump??? Alternator??? Im not sure but Im about to head out on a 2800 mile round trip pulling a heavy load and want my truck to be ready for the trip...? It sounds like its gotten louder in the last couple weeks but I think its just because I had a new manifold installed on one side and the truck is quieter making this seam louder.... But I don't know if I should be worried about it.. I don't want to waste money (right before a big trip) chasing a noise if its not something that is an issue..
View 6 RepliesAfter putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
View 14 RepliesI am a recent new owner of an 06 f350 Powerstroke. Steering Box developed a leak so I decided to replace the box and go ahead and do the pump and hoses while at it. Pump would make some noise so i figured I'd just do it all and be done with it or so I thought. The job was a pain, much harder than the pump and boxes i've done on the older 7.3 powerstroke.
Anyways, used all OEM components (pump was a rebuilt rotorcraft, can't buy new anymore) and everything seemed great for about a day. I tried to bleed the air out per standard practice of turning the wheels with the truck off the ground. At startup and during the first day it had almost no noise at all and the steering felt much easier than the old pump.
Then the pump started to develop the standard annoying ford power steering whine that I hear all the time. Drove it over the weekend on a 160 mile trip and the noise just kept getting worse. As of tonight I can't turn the wheel if the truck is stopped even with my foot off the brakes.
I used synthetic ATF for fluid and there is absolutely no foam or aeration in the reservoir. Good news is I don't have any leaks but the bad is I now don't have power steering. It does make a much louder whine or squeak when I hit a large bump turning, I guess that's just the sound of the pump being stressed more. I am guessing the pump just crapped out but before I do it all over again.
If I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
My son was driving our 02 Santa fe 2.7 V6 Auto down to plymouth, half way down the engine gave a clinking sound (Rev Dependent). When he was doing 60MPH and pressed accelerator, no power. Stopped at road side couldn't restart. (no warning lights) RAC turned up and thought it was the cam belt and said engine right off. Got car towed home and just started to strip down for cam belt check. Belt seems OK. Timing marks line up.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Accent with a manual transmission with just over 100K. It has for some time had a low whine, which is getting worse. Not wheel bearings. The whine increases with speed, and seems a little louder when decelerating. Makes the sound in every gear and when in neutral (coasting at speed). Brought it into a mechanic and he thought bearings in the transmission (though I don't know why it would make the same sound when in neutral . . .). Shifts through all of the gears fine, no other odd sounds. Can't find any information out there that sounds like my situation.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Yaris with 35,000 miles, and fully up-to-date with all the 5,000-mile usual maintenance checks [no prior problems]. Driving on a hot day, I hit Bakersfield and the car started to make a high-pitched whining noise, which got louder with the accelerator and softer when I took my foot off the gas. I thought perhaps the car was overheating and let it rest for a while, and checked the coolant [which was at a normal level]. I finished the drive to LA and stopped by the Toyota dealer who said it must have just been the fan given the hot weather.
The noise went away overnight, but the next day I was driving around town when it was overcast and cool, and even driving locally, the car made the whining noise intermittently, especially loud at low speeds like coasting in a parking lot, and the noise has been getting louder and sounding more pathological--not like a normal engine or fan noise, but like a truly problematic high-pitched straining sound. Sometimes it comes on when I start the car, sometimes restarting the car makes the noise go away for an hour or two.
It sounds almost like an electric razor being whipped around like a numchuck - a hitch pitched whine that is rotating in the engine and speeds up with the accelerator and calms down but doesn't go away at a stoplight. Perhaps I finally ran over my neighbor's annoying kitty. But today's latest Toyota mechanic also couldn't figure it out because the noise didn't start when he turned on the car and didn't restart on his test drive, but only a few hours later after I'd driven the car around town.
I've noticed lately that my Mk4 Jetta isn't accelerating the way it used to. It's an '03 5-speed 2.0L, and while the engine idles more or less normally as far as I can tell, when the car is in gear and I press the accelerator, it shudders and "slips", like an an automatic with a bad transmission.
I've checked things out with my OBD2 reader and it's not reporting any codes, no trouble indicator lights, etc., but it's definitely not responding the way it should. I just had it in for a tune-up recently, thinking it was an engine problem, but I don't think that fixed it.
My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t has recently taken a dump and had been sputtering jumping periodically when I pressed the accelerator. It had started several months ago and has become progressively worse until it didn't start anymore. Usually I could turn it off and then turn it on again and it would be fine. Not anymore.
I checked it out, the fuel pump, engine speed sensor and fuel pump relay had all been shot so my initial thought was to check for a broken wire somewhere if it had been shorting. All wires are intact but i can't find the ground connector for the fuel pump. Where is it located? I have checked and serviced all other grounds, have replaced fuel pump, relay and speed sensor. The injectors are getting juice but aren't working (the injectors themselves are still good)
Also, there are three connectors behind the relay bar underneath the dash where the fuel pump relay is located. What order they are supposed to be? There is blue, red and green. They were disconnected (not my idea) and now I don't know how they go back.