Ford - Explorer :: 2001 Won't Go Into Reverse But Every Other Gear Works Fine
Oct 5, 2016
Was going to leave the other morning and put it into reverse and nothing happened. Tried every other gear and works fine. Reverse is the only thing giving me problems right now. Tried doing some research on my own, because I can't afford a tranny rebuild. I was hoping it was either the solenoid or low/reverse band. I don't know about the band, because it works fine in low2 and low1....
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2002 f150 7700 with 5.4 triton and 4r100 tranny started chugging under acceleration and now stalls when put in D, 2 or 1. park and neutral are fine and reverse works perfectly.
Now when I put it in drive it chugs and stalls immediately... 1/10 times it will keep running but chug violently like its running out of gas. will get worse and stall if you press the gas. i can light the tires up for a block in reverse however.
Changed coils 1 2 and 3, IAC, bank 1 knock sensor, camshaft position sensor
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So my aunt has a 2002 ford f150 king ranch 5.4l and a night ago it started this problem which when you put it in drive which she has to put it in 2nd for it when she pushs on the pedal it will rev up to 2500rpms than jerks and goes and its usely fine till she stops than goes and it does it again...
Than today it wouldn't even go in anything but reverse... So than we herd about the Range Sensor on the side of the transmission and it seems like it was it so I unplug it when it was running and when i push on the pedal and it revs up to 2500rpms it will go forward and have power. So we went to get a new range sensor after like 4 hours trying to get the dam thing off and another 2 to get it back on.. I started it up and only reverse works again... So I unplug the harness to it again and we got the gears but 1st and 2nd will just rev and go.
We at a lost right now i even tighten the shift screws under the dash cause our expedition was loose at one time and the gear shifter was loose like hers. But even tighten the bolts it still don't fix the looseness or even the gears.. Is this a transmission problem? OR even the torq covertor?
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2001 explorer, SOHC. Sometimes just lately (5 times in the past three weeks) the engine just does not start. It turns over just fine but makes no attempt to actually start. When it does this it will after a few attempts start right up like nothing was ever wrong. It doesn't seem to matter whether it is cold or warm. Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose .....
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My son just got a 2001 Explorer Sport. Among the minor issues that need taken care of is an interesting situation with the wipers. The wipers only function when you press the wash button. It operates fine with wash, it parks fine after wash cycle. However, I get no response from any settings in the normal wiper switch. Where to start looking? Bad connector? Switch? It does have a tilt wheel, wire pulled out of connector?
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A friend has 2001 Explorer, whose dome light isn't working from the driver's door. Did a quick Google and found a number of excellent answers and how-tos on this site, all focusing on the door switch. Problem: the door ajar light works properly, presumably clearing the switch.
My understanding is that the dome light is triggered by the GEM via a relay. When I considering the following:
- The dome light turns on via the headlight switch;
- The dome light turns on by opening the passenger door;
- The dome light does not turn on by opening the driver's door; and
- The driver's side door ajar functionality works -
I am led to conclude that the fault would lie in the GEM module. If the GEM is indeed bad, then the light will probably just stay out. But is there something else that I might be missing?
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I have an 01 f350, my reverse lights only work when I hold up my shifter, like its almost into park. I think my reverse light switch is bad, but I don't know where its located.
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I was pulling into my driveway. I put the car in park, but when i went to get out of the car, it started to roll forward. When I finally got it stopped, I tried to shift it, and it wouldn't shift to any spot. Then it became stuck in between Park and Reverse. I can't move the gear shift.
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I am installing a Parrot Asteroid Smart into a 2010 XLT without sub or sync. I will also be hooking up a reverse camera. All wires are ran and the harness is built. I have two wires that I am having problems with to make everything function correctly.
Coming from the Parrot, I need to tap into the Reverse Gear and Park Brake. They are separate wires. Where can I tap into these wires? On the side of the shifter I do see three wires but I am not sure where they are going.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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I gave my daughter the '01 sport trac as her first car... just had to do: fan and clutch, ps pump, ac compressor pulleys, a/c line, actuator...
Now the reverse lights have gone out. Bulbs and sockets appear just fine... did notice shift indicator on dash is off just a bit... it reverses just fine....
Is there a linkage adjustment or some switch that is bad?
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I own a 2001 Ford Explorer and have had the regular wear and tear but this problem has me stumped. A few months back I had to change the auto body gasket because the truck would not go into gear. After doing this the truck ran fine, I also changed the tranny fuild and filter. The other day i went to back up into the garage and the truck stalled and died out. it started right back up and it runs fine in all other gears. (P,N, D, 1,2, 4x4 high and low) and the over drive is working fine. when the truck is cool and hasn't ran in a while i can start it and the rpms stay at about 1000 th 1200 and the reverse works great. Now when the eng. heats up to normal and i put in in reverse the rpms drop to about 4 to 500 and it stalls out and dies. I have cleaned the mass air flow sensor, the throttle body, and the IAC valve but still dying out. Im thinking it may be a vaccume leak or the IAC is bad and cleaning just wont do the trick. I have also read that it may be the back up light wiring that hooks to the tranny may be shorted out.
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I have 2001 ford explorer sport.. it idles very low in drive and reverse and then shuts off.. What has been replaced:
1. Torque converter
2. All new plugs n wires
3. Map or mass sensor
4. Iac valve
5. O2 sensors
6. Fuel filter
7. Air filter
8. Throttle valve/sensor
It does not run bad only when u come to a red or stop light.. Had the vacuum tested and no vacuum leaks.. also no check engine light has come on and no codes have popped up when tested..
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Tranny started acting funny recently...shifting hard into reverse at first, then last night it was like it was stuck in high gear or slipping on the way home. Limped it home and took the following codes:
P0743 TORQUE CONVERTER CIRCUIT ELECTRICAL
P0750 SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION
P0755 SHIFT SOLENOID B MALFUNCTION
P0760 SHIFT SOLENOID C MALFUNCTION
P0765 SHIFT SOLENOID D MALFUNCTION
P0962 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID A CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0966 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID B CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0970 PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID C CONTROL CIRCTUT LOW
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I got a new truck bed and decided it was time to finally fix my rear lights. Both blinkers work but only one brake light. It has really got me stumped. Also the rear running lights don't work and never have. When using a multi meter I get continuity between the running light positive and the common negative but only when the rear light harness is plugged in which means the short is somewhere on the way back or under the dash? Any tips about tracking this stuff down.
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I have a 78 f100 2wd, 300 inline 6 and I've put 2 c6 transmissions in it. The transmission shakes real bad in reverse. When you put it in drive and try to take off it wants to quit pulling but when you put it in first gear and shift up to 2nd it works perfect. My plan was to just junk the C6 and switch to a manual trans but I don't know what trans I would swap it with.
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I just picked up an 05 6.0 Limited and love it, but I can't figure out the overhead temperature gauge. It shows -40 degrees no matter what, but if I hit the outside temp button on the climate control, it shows the (mostly) correct temp. I verified that the temp sensor in front of the radiator is still there and hooked up, and it seems to me that Ford wouldn't go to the expense of using separate sensors for each readout, so I'm guessing that the problem is in the overhead unit itself. All of the other functions (compass, mileage, range) work just fine. I've seen several threads about the overhead dying completely as chips rattle loose. Is it also common for just specific functions to go out as things start to shake apart?
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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I have a 77 ford f100 I am restoring. I have two factory am/fm radios. I bench test both with antenna male plug all the way in, and the fm works fine on both radios. The only way to get am to work, is to slide the male antenna plug all the way out till it is just touching, then if I jiggle it, the radio plays.
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So either these trucks have a super small window wash reservoir or there is something wrong with my truck. The window washer works just fine and then stops. The washer motor is still working but nothing coming out. I fill it up to the top again and suddenly it works just fine. The thing is that when I fill it up it only takes between 1 and 2 quarts of water. I'd imagine the recover probably holds close to a gallon so not sure why mine quits working and then is full after 1 to 2 quarts of water is added. Perhaps the pickup tube in mine is bent or something? No light or message on the dash...it just stops.
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