Ford - Explorer :: 1999 V6 Noisy And Idle Will Decrease After It Warms Up
Jun 14, 2013
Since we bought this car, it has had an issue where, after it warms up, it begins making a noise which I've seen described as "moosing" on the internet. In addition to the sound, the idle will decrease and will sometimes kill the engine.
I've seen this attributed to the IAC, and so I replaced it (twice). I have tested the IAC connections as well, and all is good. I have even run the car without the IAC plugged in, to try to reset the computer, to no avail. I feel like I have eliminated the IAC from being the problem (but maybe not.)
I have replaced the PCV valve.
I have replaced the water temp sensor and the thermostat (someone suggested this might affect the computer and rpms...)
I have cleaned the MAF and tested it per the Chilton's manual. (tested fine)
I suspect that because of the idle and the engine seeming to be choking out when it dies, that there is a vacuum issue somewhere. I just don't know where to start with this.
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer that when it starts in the morning sounds like a tractor and stalls out till it warms up after 5-10 minutes. This is of course wasting gas and I've replaced spark plugs and wires and 2 oxygen sensors. After the truck warms up it runs fine but it's very frustrating in the morning and good that I have a strong battery-check engine light is on-what could be the problem?
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I drive a 1999 Explorer XLT AWD with the 5.0. Here lately the front end has started getting sloppy and noisy. When driving slowly in town it makes a clunking sound on the front passenger hub area any time I hit a bump. It cleans up a little at highway speed. Does this sound a bearing issue, an AWD issue, or a CV issue? Also, if it is a bearing issue can I rebuild my own hubs or will I have to by an assembly?
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I have a '99 Dakota 4 cylinder. Starts fine but as it warms up or if you gas it the idle stays high. The more you run it the higher it goes. Have replaced MAP senser, throttle position and air bypass with no effect.( map and high tps voltage only codes shown ) Vacuum problem?
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Engine idles erratically after it warms up. Strong sucking air sound from throttle body as engine idles from low to high. I have no codes on ODB II.
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4.6L DOHC - My driver's side catalytic converter is making quite a bit of noise during acceleration when the engine is warm. I have no trouble codes, no cel and the truck seems to be running fine in general.
I am exploring repair possibilities. I've talked to two shops - one general repair, one exhaust specialist. Neither gave me any options other than to replace the whole system. That isn't an option. I'm a semi-competent home mechanic and if that's what has to be done I'll just buy the walker system from RA and do it myself.
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1997 Ford Econoline HD Club Wagon E350 2wd 250k 6.8l V-10 Factory front and rear air, rear evap is there but all other components were removed from previous owner to use as a work van.
Air works great other than at idle it warms up some, not a real big issue at the moment, and also has a small vac leak somewhere as under heavy throttle or towing any bog will change vents to defrost and floor. not a big deal at the moment.
My issue right now is I was driving yesterday down the interstate air on full blast freezing me real good (awesome at speed on these 100 degree days in NC) and all of a sudden ambient air, no more awesomeness.
I pulled over to take a quick look but was way too hot to sit on the side of the interstate and look further, got the ole girl home and looked at it today.
Compressor kicks on as it should, but all the lines stay the same no condensation, blend door is moving to adjust from any vents the control tells it to.
My question is if it was low on freon the compressor wouldnt kick on at all, and if its up and cycling correctly why aren't the lines becoming cold? the temp door is also working as with the van warm the air will blow hot then when i switch it back to cold it gets cool just not cold, temp of air around blower.
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1999 Explorer starts then will not idle unless it is put into gear. It only happens once in a while...
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99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
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What can cause my 99 explorer xlt to have a rough idle on initial start ups?(Its worse in the winter time) And sometime after driving places when i put it in park the truck will cut off. It has the 6 cylinder SOHC if that's useful.
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I bought this from my brother in better than mint condition. Always maintained. Its generating a cyl #2 misfire code.
It starts and runs like new when cold, but when it warms up, it idles rough, and generates the code. after 1500 rpm it smooths right out and runs fine.
He had it to the dealer just before I bought it and they told him needed a new engine.
I am thinking bad injector, since what seems to be happening is, when cold it gets more fuel, or when u rev it gets more fuel, but at an idle and warm, it doesn't seem to be getting enough maybe. And I see from the maintenance records, a couple of other injectors have been replaced as well.
I think the dealer got tired of replacing injectors under warranty and tried to milk him for a new engine.
2002 ranger extended cab 2wd, 3 door, 232,000 kms 5 speed 3 liter V6, new glass and clutch..
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04 f250 364000 miles 06 6.0. New fan clutch. Ac didn't work when I put the engine in found out the fan clutch was bad so I replaced it. Now it doesn't turn at idle until the engine warms up even if I have the ac on. In the mornings it comes on and keep the temp at 190. In the after noon when if finally comes on truck runs at 210 to 190. Fss 530 when on at 210 at idle. And 800 at 1200 rpm what is going on.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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Recently when I start my car, it starts fine when it's cold because it will idle high until it warms up, but if I start it while it's warm the rpms drop to about 500 barely idlling and if I tap the gas a couple of times the problem goes away and it idles normally at about 700.
I recently also replaced the o-ring on the distributor because it was leaking oil. I reset the timing twice. It is hard to get an accurate reading in the dark, looking at a little timing mark 3 feet away, but I am sure it is at 10 BTDC.
New wires, new thermostat, air filter could be a little dirty, other than that, I am thinking it might be an oily sensor or something else?
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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We have a 1996 GMC Sierra 1500 Turbo Diesel and since yesterday, it's had a problem... When it warms up, it runs really rough and misses at idle. While it is doing this, white smoke spills from the exhaust. When we rev it to about 2000 rpm it runs smoothly. Sometimes at idle it misses bad enough to stall. Some say it could be the IP, EGR or injectors?
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My 90 lumina euro 3.1 has idle surge after it warms up. fluctuates between 600 and 1200 rpm when in drive. When you first get on the throttle it wants to die. Once you get past that it runs smooth while driving. Ive also notice that it tries to "buck" when its at lower rpm and barely on the throttle while pulling.
I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks, has recient tuneup, had a egr code and that has been replaced. I've cleaned the throttle body also. Previous owner had intake gaskets replaced as well as fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
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2001 Grand am 2.4. Runs fine when the engine is cold but when it warms up the idle is rough. When throttle is added from idle, RPM's drop, it hesitates, then either stalls or goes. Car runs just fine when there is a load on the engine (highway speeds). Sometimes it will even stall coming onto off ramps off the freeway. It intermittently shifts hard. SES light is on p0108. Have replaced the MAP sensor and checked for vacuum leaks, still have the light and the same problems.
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Recently replaced crank p.S. that a dodgy mechanic installed app 5 myths ago seems he used after market Chinese shit instead of ome gear well one thing leads to another as all jeepers know with highway speed engine missing when engine warms up l found that instead of running power cable from sensor above the trans fluid tube , in his wisdom ran under said tube causing a short to the computer not realy the best for them , now l have issues with idle ,02 , tps, possible computer.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 zj 4ltr Auto ...
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When I start the engine it works fine while the motor is cold (idle normal all smooth). When the engine the temperature reach normal operating range the car loose power and idle drops to 350-500 rpm and if i am driving I can not go over 40mi/h. I drive a 2008 Sta Fe now with 96000 KM (~~60000 miles). A month ago the engine start shaking severely and knocking noise (like some spark plugs where not working), from this to now:
Changed all sparks plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Now this situation looks more related to temperature of the engine.
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My 98 Maxima won't idle without dying, it sputters when you accelerate, and it tries to die while coasting. I've changed two O2 sensors (AutoZone gave me the code for bank 1 sensor 1 & 2) changed spark plugs, tried fuel injector cleaner, oil change, and cleaned MAF sensor & checked the wiring. It;s still spitting out the black exhaust. Although after changing the O2 sensors it quit for about a day or two but started again (I'm guessing the other sensors need to be changed to) But the main problem is once it warms up, it really runs like crap, and is a major gas hog. I'm getting about 12 Mpg.
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