I have a 98 ford explorer just changed the alternator and now its running rough also it sounds louder than normal from the muffler. I am clueless, what the problem can be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 98 sport 4.0 i bought awhile back and its been running rough.. When driving it seems to cut out.. I had it scanned and it has code PO453 which is pressure sensor.. I was told they replaced the fuel pump when i got it.. After driving and i get out i can smell gas on the drivers side.. I replaced the gas cap but no change.. I was just wondering about this code and what i should start with first..
View 3 RepliesRecently my brother in laws truck started making a buzzing sound while running and a much louder sound after it shuts off. Trying to track down the sound. Listen to the whole video because the end is where it gets loud.
6.7 powerstroke strange noise - YouTube
over the past two weeks my 2011 GTI seems to have gotten a bit louder and has a low frequency rumble when on the lower end of the gears (DSG). Any thoughts on this? From the exterior the car doesnt seem louder to me at all. I have a stage 1 APR and everything else stock
Maybe I am going nuts but it is bugging me!
I have a 1998 Explorer XLT V6 (4.0 SOHC) with an AC problem. The AC compressor will not turn on via normal means - turn to AC or AC Max, rotate temp to left. It hasn't been a problem as I never use the AC, but I'm fixing a few of the minor inconveniences (dash lamps, re-solder radio) and figured, why not look at the AC too.
A while back my mechanic said he used the Explorer to test his AC equipment and made sure the Freon was good. He said everything was working. I am assuming he was able to control the AC system from his tools under the hood. This tells me the system is good and the problem is related to the temperature control or a switch somewhere.
Its a first Generation I have had about a year, had some of the typical issues with a vehicle this old---bad connection with a relay under hood, cracked fan blade, IAC, nothing I could not find.
Temp (issue is getting worse) runs up to high end of "Normal" yet I note radiator does not seem overly hot. (to the touch).
Antifreeze tests very good and is full---no signs of leaks or liquid in the oil.
I am hoping thermostat or radiator===vehicle has been well maintained and does not show rust in the coolant, and no signs of leakage around the pump or anywhere else---coolant level does not drop.
I am planning on removing the thermostat and seeing if same issue with it removed====it should rule that out or not----
It is not boiling over but just running towards the high end of the normal area.
For reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
.I know this post sounds odd but its true. My wife has a 2006 Kia Optima with 197,000 miles and NOTHING has gone wrong. Well almost nothing. We've only had to replace the water pump and windshield wiper motor. We have it the oil changed and fluids checked and topped off before the factory recommendation. We bought the car in 2008 with 15,000 miles. Most of her miles are highway, to and from work.
Now my question. Its starting to sound rough, like its getting louder at higher RPM's. The ride was never smooth but it feels like the suspension is wearing out a bit. Should I risk taking it to a shop, having them look at it and tell me 1,000 that need to be replaced or fixed, or do we just let it ride until the wheels fall off? I feel like the old "if it aint broke, don't fix it" saying applys here. I had a friend tell me I should have really had the timing belt replaced by now. So Im kind of at a loss.
I have a 1998 chevy blazer about 134000 miles v6 4.3 4wd.. This last two weeks my blazer been running rough. I like to know what is normal idle for that blazer. When at idle its 500- 550 rpm when in drive its 500rpm.
View 16 RepliesMy 2002 Ford Explorer 4L V6 is running rough I found out why I just don't know what the piece is called because I need a replacement. Mine fell off and fell down the engine and melted quite a bit. Also the part number on my piece doesn't work anywhere, that I have typed it in. Mine has a Ford part number of 1L2U-9F764-AC. Also need to know the proper Ford number. I have a picture I found online with an arrow pointing to the piece I need.
View 1 RepliesMy explorer has been running a little rough, particularly at idle. When I take off from a rough idle, it'll run rough until I hit 25-30mph. I ran by O'Reilly's hoping to pick up a pack of spark plugs and be done with it, ended up leaving with a new MAF sensor. It ran better for about 10 miles (I'm a delivery driver, so I did a lot of stop and go immediately), before it ran even worse than it did before, but at least my CEL finally came on. Took it back to O'Reilly's and they read a MAF sensor code and a catalytic system code (didn't ask for the codes, and now realize that was a mistake).
So today I took it to a muffler shop to have the catalytic system diagnosed. They looked at it for 10 minutes and told me they didn't think it was the converter. They said it seemed more like the EGR valve or solenoid, or the IAC. He scanned the codes again and got multiple "running lean" codes (0171, 0174, etc). The guy said I didn't have a vacuum leak, so I think I can rule that out. Unfortunately, the truck idled fine the whole time so he didn't feel comfortable giving me a definitive answer. He told to to leave the EGR valve hose unplugged for a few days and see if anything changes. I'm thinking about running a bottle of fuel cleaner through it or taking off the IAC and/or EGR and cleaning them myself.
ok, 3 times now I've been extremely close to being hit head on by oncoming traffic due to a seemingly uncurable stalling problem. It idles rough sometimes, and other times it seems fine. BUT when sitting at a light, waiting to turn left after the oncoming traffic has a quick opening, I start to go, I get halfway across the intersection and then without warning, it dies completely. Now its too late to stop and back up- and the cars are flying head on towards you locking up they're brakes. One time I would have been killed by the 18 wheeler that was coming if I hadn't gotten it started and moving again just in time.
I replaced the IAC, the plugs, filters and wires, and the EGR valve. I checked everywhere for intake leaks and found nothing. Changed the O2 sensors since they had plenty of mileage on em. It idles like crap still, even after 30+ tanks of every kind of injector cleaner they make. We used the snap on scanner tool to monitor things and it never acted up then. The TPS seems to move smoothly, and fuel pressure was checked and found to be around 25-30 psi. Don't know if that's normal. The intake air temp was reading a constant 120 degrees F. I also checked the fuel cap to make sure it was closing completely. The dealer checked the TB for excessive clearance and said it was ok.
It seems to only stall like that after driving on the highway and then stopping at the first light after that.
Owning a Hyundai. I have a problem and it seems to be pretty common but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Last week my 2004 accent 1.6 manual transmission started running rough. It was idling higher than normal and while driving would not go past a certain rpm (about 2500 if I had to guess,no tach). On the way home from work it was running this way and then started badly misfiring and shut off, when attempted to restart it would not. I pulled the codes with a scanner and got p2400, p0562, and p0121. I charged the battery and replaced the throttle position sensor, still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when I turn on the ignition. Also found the ecu 1 fuse blown, replaced it and continued to attempt to start with no luck, fuse was blown again. Like I said I haven't owned the car long and I don't know much about it. I am not sure where to go from here and I don't know how all these symptoms are tied together.
View 42 RepliesI have been puzzled to why my truck isn't running right. We were driving down the highway one day and*then all of the sudden it starts running really rough. I changed MAF sensor, plugs and plug wires, oil change, fuel filter and air filter. Still doing the same thing. What this could be? 2003 ford sport trac..
View 11 RepliesI have a 93 Ford Explorer, manual transmission. About a month ago it intermittently started running very rough. I does this wether the weather is rainy or not. The engine has done this when it just started up, cold, and when it's been fully warmed up. I have been able to drive it, but it has been quite a challenge. When running, there is a very noticeable noxious exhaust smell. The check engine light has come on some of the time. When the eec codes were checked it only revealed 522, the car wasn't in park or neutral when running the test.
I have tried clearing and rerunning this test several times, yet 522 still shows up. No other fault codes. Don't know how this would cause engine to perform so bad. The fuel tank has been near full when it happened so I believe the gas to be good/ no water. The engine has a lot of mileage on it, over 200K, so I'm not sure if something inside could be malfunctioning, but don't know how to check. The car will run for days very smoothly before this happens again. I have changed plugs, wires and the pcv valve and it still occurs. It's like the engine is hitting on one cylinder when it happens.
On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
98 5.0 last week i was driving around for a few hours and everything was fine. Did some work in the garage for a few hours and had to run to the hardware store. Started the truck up and she ran like crap. Engine shaking like a misfire. First thought plugs and wires. Well by then it was late and Easter was the next day didn't get to it till Monday. Well after the change still crappy running.
So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the mass air. No change. Checked for spark on the coil packs all have spark. Checked the PCV all good there. Checked for vac leaks none found. During that I noticed a small hole in the EGR tube I repaired that but still running like crap backfiring out the exhaust, engine shaking badly at times. I also changed out the FPR on the fuel rail. No change of course.
As of today I changed the coil packs. Again no change. Only code it throws is a EGR high flow after I fixed the hole but was having problems before that.
1998 Ranger 4x4 4.0 Ltr - Runs rough ever now and then and CEL giving P1151 code. Upper and lower intake gaskets have been replaced.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 4.6 2wd regular cab with 255,000 miles on it. Lately it has had some problems. The first is that it will run really rough when under a load, meaning when I step on the gas. It runs smooth at idle and at cruise but when I step on the accelerator it bogs way down and almost shuts off. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Now I'm thinking maybe fuel pump?
The other issue is that when the truck is having to work a little harder (i.e. pulling a trailer or running in the summer with the AC on) it will start to run hot. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the coolant, cleaned out the radiator, etc. and it still does it. Could both of my issues be related to a fuel problem??
I have a 2000 ford explorer. 4x4 v6. One day i started it up and it was running rough. It had real sluggish power. Then the check engine light came on. I hooked it up to the code machine. The only readout was number 3 misfired. I replaced the plug and all was fine. A few months it happend again. I replaced it again and it was fine. Well it just happened again. I replaced it again. It ran good to work but on the way back no good. Light came on again. Hooked up the machine it read number 4 misfired and number 2 bank lean. So I replaced number 4. It still runs like shit rough idle and no power. Give it gas it dogs out but then it'll kick in if i get on it. Thinking it maybe a vaccum leak or intake leak or o-rings.
View 4 RepliesFrom cold, I start the van up, and if I just slightly crack the throttle it will start running rough. I think it goes away under heavier throttle...might just be that the rpms are up I can't feel it anymore, I don't know. It will idle just fine, and after it warms up it also seems fine. Where to look?Also I sometimes hear a very small, high pitched, vacuum leak from under the hood. What are the most common items that go bad, that I should look at first?
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