Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Power Window Won't Go Up Or Down Without A Manual Assist?
Mar 4, 2012
I recently bought a wrecked '97 Ford Explorer Sport with 51,000 miles to use as a parts car for my '97 Ford Explorer with 300,000 miles. The two front power windows in my Explorer just go "click, click, click, click..." when I try to use them, and they won't go up or down without a manual assist. The power windows in the Sport worked fine. I first replaced the motor... no improvement. Th
en I replaced the linkage with the flywheel, thinking it might be worn. No good. Then, after watching a video on youtube showing how to replace the power windows, I noticed that a new assembly comes with new tracks, so I replaced the tracks also. No go. I took the old motor and linkage and hooked it up to a 9 volt battery. It works just fine. I greased the tracks but that didn't work. I can't see anything that could be jamming the works. Fixing my windows is one of the main reasons I bought the Sport.
4.0 liter V-6 with only 51,000 miles?
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Both power windows on my 1997 Grand Am are broken and the last time I had one fixed it cost $500. I would like to convert the windows to manual from power. What parts do I need to buy to do so.
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I have a 1997 ford explorer, the passenger side rear window only works in one direction, I have tested motor and it does work in both directions reversing the polarity, checked switch by checking voltage on each prong of plug (where motor plugs into harness), and does get 12 volts on each line as switch is being activated,I think there may be a ground problem on the one side that does not work, where to start looking??
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2010 Explorer XLT. The left rear power window lowers, but does not raise back up with the driver's master control switch (the 4 switch control on the driver's door). It does, however, lower and raise fine with the single switch on it's own rear door. Thinking it was a bad master switch module on the driver's door, I replaced it and the same thing still happens - works fine with it's own single switch but will only lower and not raise with the driver's door switch. All the other windows work fine. This has me totally stumped.
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Can the power window regulator motor on a 96 Explorer be repaired? I can hear the motor make a thump noise but it is bound. I have seen videos on earlier model Fords where the motor can be taken apart and the plastic spheres can be replaced but I didn't know if that can be done on a 96 model.
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What do I need to do to replace the drivers side window motor in my 97 f150? Do you need special tools? or just pull the panel loose from the door replace and motor and push the panel back on. Or is there plastic clips that are going to break off?
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My power window switch illumination has gone dark on one side of the switches....
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I have had my 2001 F150 Supercrew for about six months. After yesterday's rain, I noticed there is now water dripping inside from around the passenger side entry assist hand. I opened the sunroof/moonroof but didn't see anything obvious there.
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower.
I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower. I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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I was just wondering is the climate control self contained so it can be directly swapped for manual HVAC controls? I have a XLT and would like to upgrade the HVAC and radio system if possible if they are direct swaps.
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My driver's door power window motor stopped working. Replaced motor (Dorman). New motor was shaky and wouldn't stop when going down. Replaced motor again (Dorman), same thing. Regulator became damaged, replaced (Dorman), smoother, still won't stop with auto button, or holding down button. At some point glass came out of regulator and track. Replaced glass. Window goes up and down smoothly, but just doesn't stop when going down and tries to keep going. I don't see a limit switch or circuit for it. I see there is a relay and a fuse for the auto down. What tells the motor to stop driving current?
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White 1997 Explorer XLT 4 door 4x4 4.0 sohc 220,000 miles. The power windows and locks don't work. I've tried all of them in the whole car and nothing. Replaced all fuses at the inside panel and replaced all fuses and relays under the hood. Replaced master control switch on the drivers side and still nothing.
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My 09 Accent 3dr hatchback driver side window starts to hang up on something about 2/3 of the way as the window rolls down. Took to dealer, they said they had fixed it, but alas, its worse now than before.
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1997 Explorer V8 AWD Codes I have
C1185 ABS power relay output circuit fail
C1102 Acceleration Switch Malfunction, may not apply to AWD
B1318 low battery prob had that issue sometime in its life, currently bat is 12.4 and 14.3 running.
And ABS light is on.
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I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
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I have a 1997 Explorer XLT. The high beam have not worked since I got it and now living in Virginia they are needed to pass inspection. When turned on (pushed forward) lights go out, high beam indicator comes on. When flash to pass (pulled back) lows stay on and indicator comes on. It does not have auto lamps.
What I have done:
Replaced MFS
Verified power from GRY/ORG wire on MFS when turning high beams on.
Verified power across fuse #33 when switch turned on.
Had bulbs tested, Good.
No power on high beam wire at the bulb socket.
The only thing I have not checked is what several people have referred to as a "splice" I think someone referred to it as S111? Where this is physically located or am I going to have to start the chore of tracing the wires?
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I have a 1997 explorer 5.0 AWD. The problem is that when it is about 44 degrees and below, the windshield wipers, power windows, and interior lights don't and won't work. We will run the heater until it warms up the interior, then everything seems to work fine. I usually leave the wipers on so I know when it is warmed up enough. I have checked all of the fuses and all are fine. the only thing that I can think of is there is a crack in the back of the fuseblock that breaks contact when the metal is cold.
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My truck is an XL V8. Transmission is Manual 5-Speed Mazda M5OD-R2.
I bought this truck literally two days ago. It seemed a little hard to shift, but no other problems. The truck had been sitting a short while, the guy said he took it on local trips, but nothing more. I noticed the oil and coolant levels were crazy low, so maybe it had been sitting longer or the guy was neglectful, I'm not sure...
I was driving it home and it seems like what can be described as: the gear ratio went completely out.
For example, 4th gear acted like 1st gear, 5th gear like somewhere between 1st and 2nd gear, so when I'm at 20mph, in 5th gear, the rpms are really high like im going 20mph in first gear (not 5th).
Today none of the gears engage at all... I dropped off a trailer at uhaul, and I got stuck there! (The truck is still there, I walked 4 miles home)
The shifter works fine, all gears sound like neutral (including reverse) when accelerator is pressed. Car won't move at all, nothing is engaging.
Underneath the car, there is a leak from the transmission assembly, maybe around the fill plug? It's only a small puddle. Maybe fluid, shift forks, bushes? or all?
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The window just stopped working. Everything was fine, then all of a sudden it quit! What could it be and how can I fix it? I checked for a fuse, everything appears ok. Its 1997 Cavalier. Its 15°F here and it would be nice to not have to drive with the window down.
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I have a 2006 F-150 5.4L Extended Cab. The windows have to be rolled up by hand and would like to know if there is a way to converted to power window and maybe locks too.
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