Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Doesn't Start Smoothly - Motor Not Turning On
Feb 16, 2012
I have a 1997 Ford Explorer. Starting about 4 months ago I have had intermittent problems with it not wanting to start.When you turn the key the radio and dome lights etc. come on but it is dead silence from the motor.First time it happened we ended up replacing the starter solenoid. Next time we discovered that if you "jump" the 2 posts on the solenoid (using well insulated rubber handled pliers) while turning the ignition it will start every time.Took it to a local, reputable mechanic - he is baffled. They looked at every connection and wire they could think of.It is not the battery or solenoid, as best we can tell. It does not do it all the time. It will ocur, then it will start fine for 2 weeks then happen 3 times in a row, then not happenf for say another week or two.
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I just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
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I've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
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I have a 1997 ford explorer, the passenger side rear window only works in one direction, I have tested motor and it does work in both directions reversing the polarity, checked switch by checking voltage on each prong of plug (where motor plugs into harness), and does get 12 volts on each line as switch is being activated,I think there may be a ground problem on the one side that does not work, where to start looking??
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What may have wrong with my trans on my truck... this is what its doing, I am able to put in drive and drive it for so long then its like the truck is in neutral and doesn't gain or maintain speed. but i can turn the truck off and put it in park and restart the truck and it will go again?? that is how i got it home....
the fluid is burnt now but wasn't that bad until the trans started doing this. I have pulled off the pan and inspected the filter and it does have metal debris in it, pulling the valve body off tonight before work (work 3rd shift) to inspect that, i think it has something to do with the solenoids or valve body because it actually moves but then quits until i restart the truck. Also does the transfer case use fluid from the transmission? or are the fluids separated between the 2.
Truck has 4.0L SOHC with a 5R55E in it 4WD...
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I gotta prob with my 08 camry 83k....I bought it two months ago and def didn't notice this so think its a new prob.. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the car seems like it doesn't shift smoothly... For example if I am going at 2rpms, I will take foot off, and go to 1rpm, and then it will jerk back up to 1.5 rpm..is this normal? The dealership tells me everything is fine and I am not so sure figured to consult with the pro's ...
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Picked up the T-Reg on thur. Black w/teak V-8.! Had the factor hitch installed? Service dept indicated a change was needed in the on board computer to adjust for the additional strain that towing will put on the drive train. What may have been changed?
The trans does not seem to shift as easy as when I drove it first, it could be just the amount of time that I spent in it on the test drive run. If you leave from a stop and try to leave smoothly it is a little harsh, not as smooth as the A-6 Avant with Tiptronic that we had.
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A few days ago the head lights and all inside lights would flicker and go off for a second or two while I was driving at highway speed. Thee flickering stopped when I slowed down. Yesterday the car would not start at all. The motor is turning over but not catching. Also only the radio work but not the sound system. I put in a new hi-output alternator but the car still will not start. The car has 155,000 miles and generally runs well. How to repair this?
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It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
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Have a 2002 malibu base 3.1 v6 that will not start. Battery charged, motor cranks, pump pumps 52psi at the rail, pink wire to injectors has 12v, fuses good, injectors click when jumped manually but not when starting. CPM is not grounding the six individual injectors to open nozzles. Bad CPM or is there another sensor I should look at?
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So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
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So, as the title says, my Miata won't start when it's hot. The engine keeps turning over but doesn't catch, and I have to let it cool down for about 20 minutes before it will turn on again. When it does turn back on, it blows a ton of white smoke out the back and I can smell gas for about 5 min afterwards. I have replaced the spark plugs and the wiring for them, and the problem is still there.
Also, I can bump start the car with little to no difficulty. It runs ragged for a few minutes then it runs great. So, what's up.
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I can cold start my 98 f150 with the 4.2 and it runs fine. After you drive it for a while and turn it off and try to restart it, it starts then dies, it will do this until you rev up the motor to keep it running. I have to drop in gear and get going down the road and then it smooths out and runs fine. I had a mech check the fuel pressure at the rail and it was 19 psi. The book says it is suppose to be 35psi. He said my fuel pump was bad. I installed a fuel pump and it is still doing the same thing yet. What to check now?
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Vehicle is stranded on the side of the road (safely) and here's what happened. Driving (normal) 1/4 mile away from the house, motor shut down. Pulled off, tried restart. Motor turns over normally and all gauges work (temp/oil/volt). The only weird thing is that the O/D light on the end of the shift selector stays on even after pushing it on and off. I plugged in my OBDII reader and it will not link with the system. Yes... the ignition is on Is this indicative of a fuel, computer, electrical issue? or all the above. Worst case scenario is i have it towed to the shop tomorrow and they diag it. I don't have the proper tools to diag this.
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So my truck felt gutless somtimes, wouldn't start Every couple days , and Fuel gauge stops at half tank won't show full, so I went n bought a new fuel pump..... Well shoot nothing changed . I guess my next move is pull the dash off n fix gauge? It used to be a reliable truck . Now Im not comfortable to let wife drive it . I also pulled the chip to see if that had to do with not starting, also theft light blinks normal. I'm going to get some connector grease n redo all of my wires to c if there's just connection issues.
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This 97 F150 4.2 is new to me, originally a very base 2wd white fleet vehicle, with 189,000 miles, runs smoothly and quietly, idles well, transmission shifts smoothly. Gets reasonable gas mileage.
Problem statement: the truck has an intermittent starting problem. The failure to start happens about 5-10% of the time. The motor will turn over fine, but but immediately stumbles while trying to start. Turn key off and then re-start attempt will be again followed by a bucking stumble. Some times the motor might try and run for 2-3 seconds bucking and stumbling. It is possible the problem happens more often when the truck is warm and has been shut off for 15 minutes or so. Once the problem happens it is very repeatable. It won't start again unless I wait about 30 minutes to an hour. Once it starts it seems to run very nicely. I have noticed some times when I go to successfully start the truck it might run roughly for the first 3-4 seconds bucking and sputtering a bit and then smooth out and not have an issue until the next re-start attempt.
The truck runs so nicely when it is running I doubt it is an issue with the plugs, air filter general tune up. Could it be an intermittent fuel pump issue? The next time it occurs I will check fuel pressure. Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Also tested by fuel pressure. ECU? The truck runs very nicely most of time that seems like a long shot. Crank sensor? Bad fuel? I did add some dry gas.
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My explorer starts fine some days and others it just wont. No codes, have replaced fuel pump. Rail and starter.
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So after work tonight I went to start truck it turned over fine but wouldn't start, when it finally did it barely ran and then it was fine, I had it b4 when I start it would turn over for a little bit b4 starting, would that be fuel pump?
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Ok so I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC .. The girl that owns it went out and started it to warm up and went back in the house , when she came back out it had died and wouldn't start .. I hauled to our shop and started diagnosing it .
It has spark
has fuel
Timing is good
Fuel pressure regulator is good
Crank sensor is good
About 62 PSI fuel pressure
No CEL
Seems to be getting WAY too much fuel and fouling plugs !
Replaced ECM ...same thing .
Used NOID light on injector wire and I have never seen one get so bright !
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Drove it yesterday no problems. got in this morning tried to start and would not turn over. thought it was a dead battery. Ran jumper cables to my wifes car waited for a while tried again. nothing. bought a new battery put it in. Nothing. I did notice when turning the key the dash lights come on then half a second they go out. interior lights, and 12v outlet work but no headlights. Any issue other than the obvious corroded terminals or loose terminal wires?
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I have a manual transmission 97 BMW 540i. It only starts normally if I drive it frequently. The more frequent I drive it, the more chances it has at starting up. If I leave it too long, it will be basically silent - no telltale battery low sounds on startup. I do hear some kind of servo type noise. If I try maybe 50X plus, it may start up randomly if I am lucky - the less time that has elapsed since the last startup will increase my chances of the car starting. In this state, if I hook it up to a battery to jump it, it does not change the behavior - same no start. All the cabin lights and accessories are strong and do not seem to be a battery issue. I am able to get the car pushed and can pop the clutch and the car will start.
I had the starter replaced about 6 months ago with the same problem and it seemed to fix the problem until recently and it is showing the symptoms above.Could it be the starter again? or is it only a temporary fix for a different problem?
If I drive it very frequently - absolutely no issues - starts up immediately.
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