Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - Sputters At Acceleration
Nov 3, 2011
My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
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I have a 2006 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6 that when speed up around high 4 gear entering 5 from what I can hear (it is an automatic) it sputters slightly and you can feel the acceleration kinda die or cut out for a millisecond. I connected the OBD reader and no codes. I noticed the check engine light came on and then off so I replaced the spark plugs replaced and transmission fluids, checked all fluids and leveled them then replaced the fuel filter while I was at it. Drove around for a day like normal did about 50 miles no lights came on but then today while driving in the morning when I accelerated to around 55-60 entering 5 gear the car did the sputtering and loss of acceleration again and no lights or codes.
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I'm fixing my mother's Ford Explorer 2000 it turns over but won't start it sputters and everyone smile you hear what sounds like a small backfire.
it seems to be getting good spark I can get it to start for a little while and run on either. So I'm assuming the plugs and wires are working well they look good. When I tested the spark it looks very good.
ECM fuses look good able to use a scanner Jump fuel relay and can hear pump run I made sure there is gas in the gas tank
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I have been having issues with my 2001 sports trac 4x4 v6 sohc fuel in. 132k mileage. The problem is I can jump in and it will start first try, fuel pump is heard activating, idle is rough, feels like truck is about to die, pumping on the gas usually causes it to catch and smooth out......after 10 mins. or sometimes less than that truck starts to sputter, step on throttle it dies faster, sometimes when stepping on the throttle before it dies and a truck is able to rev up and then back to idle and not die.
But most times stepping on the gas when it begins to sputter after running for 10 mins or so causes it to die once it dies it doesn't start back up and when key is turned on and off, no fuel pump activation noise. I have scantool data take off an autel 619 saved to notebook text format. Those are my numbers for the scan tool, suggestions I have gotten so far are vacuum leak, failing fuel pump, bad o2 sensors, bad MAF.......so far replaced fuel filter and cleaned MAF....no difference.
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This started when the weather got cold. The car crank sputters a bit initially then cranks only. I can get it started by turning the distributor sometimes. The day I got it started I checked timing and it looked normal from what I read (10 degrees from TDC).
The next day it did it again so after some testing again I replaced the distributor and the car was up and going again. On the third day the car started and ran normally and i thought the issue was solved until day 4 when this started again. I guess i'll check the fuel delivery.
Btw the only work done on this car in the last year other than oil changes was a timing belt (by someone else) the car a little crappy after that but started every day.
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I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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Starts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
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My car is misfiring, as in acceleration 90% sputters until I lay the pedal to the ground, which obviously isn't good for my gas. What do I do? I can't find anything online and I don't want to be throwing money into things that don't work.
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I own a Celica '00 and have been driving it for 8 years. In the last year I've noticed that my CEL started coming on. Did some scans and got P0171 error code from Autozone. The Celica was running lean and took some time to accelerate but run fine for a while. It got worse soon and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed a bad Cat Converter and he replaced it with an universal one. He also replaced the first Oxygen sensor, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump and the Mass Air Flow sensor. Car's CEL came back one after 10 miles of driving. At that time I put in a 4" silencer for my muffler. The silencer had a 2.5" opening and worked well to lower the muffler noise.
The CEL was still on and I disconnected the negative on the battery to see if I can reset it. Well, once I connected it back and tried to turn on my Car all hell broke loose. The engine now has extreme sputters, shakes and hesitates to accelerate above 5-10mph. I barely drove it back to the mechanic. He still is not sure what the problem is, he thinks replacing the other sensors and troubleshooting the coils should be the next step. I'm wondering if my silencer could have caused any damage? Also, I'm wondering if there is valve damage inside the cylinder? The code we're getting now is Cylinder 4 misfire. What about the Fuel filter? I don't think it has been changed at all. The car is at 122,000 miles right now.
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I'm a single mom and really dependent on my car for my job and my kids... I have a 1995 Chevy Camaro 6-cylinder, and I am having engine problems... in the mornings, my car starts fine, but if I drive more than a few minutes and turn it off, she doesn't want to start up again. It turns over just fine, but it sputters and refuses to stay started. After a couple of tries, I can get it going, I rev the engine, and a cloud of dark smoke (not blue and smells like gasoline) comes out. I also smell gas strongly when the engine idles after everything smooths out. Sparkplugs, fuel filter, oil, air filter, belts, hoses, all have been replaced recently, catalytic converter is only four years old, and car has 178,000 miles on it. What I may be dealing with? I'm also losing acceleration/power when I try to speed up...
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My new-to-me Explorer appears to switch to 4WD high but refuses to engage 4WD low. And now I have the 6-times-flashing 4WD and 4WD low dash lights when turning the ignition on.
I used the correct procedure: Stop the car, put it in neutral, and switch to 4WD low. Nothing happens.
I looked for a ground wire from the top of the transfer case to the chassis. I can't find any such wire. All the under-hood fuses are intact.
In the process of looking for the ground wire I discovered a capped 3/8 inch or so vacuum hose about 6 inches long with a right angle fitting at the front of the transfer case. I also found a capped 2-foot-long hose of similar size connected to the top of the front differential. What the heck are these hoses? Has somebody intentionally disabled the 4WD?
I am reasonably adept at electrical repairs, troubleshooting, and modifications..
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My 1996 Ford Explorer makes this dreadful droning noise - but only when the outside temperature is above 78 degrees and the engine is warm. This is summer 3 and it seems to get louder and louder each year. The doing is loud. I am embarrassed in parking lots. It does not matter if a/c is on, or the fan. The noise goes away with throttle. Which may mean the engine vacuum is involved in the noise.
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Parked in driveway and 2 hours later it cranks but will not start. Pushed on fuel rail Schrader valve and it squirts out. Turn key and the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then off...... Thought I had fuel... assume electrical. Read posts last night and thought crank positioner pickup was a good place to look. Took spark plug leads off #1 and #4 at coil and set a 1/4 steel dowel in each so they were 1/2 inch apart. Crank motor and I get spark out of coils so I assume the plugs are getting fire... Took off intake hose and shot ether in the tube while cranking... no fire or pop at all.
Where to now ? Seems like I have fire to the plugs, and fuel available but will not start. I have only one code and that's PO1116 coolant temp out of range..I don't have a cam sensor code or a crank sensor code...I thought they might effect the timing ? With spark at the plug wires, you would think I would get a "POP" now and then, especially with the ether ?
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On my 96 explorer the speedo most always reads 50mph. It goes to this as soon as you take off. You can be doing 5mph or 75mph and the speedo goes to 50mph and stays there. Everything else on the instrument cluster works. Is there something I can replace on the speedo only or do i need to find a good used instrument cluster?
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1996 Explorer xlt 4.0l ... I ran into this issue a few years ago on a drive up through the mountains. Had the tranny replaced shortly after.
Rebuilt the engine once due to leaking head gasket.
Rebuilt it again 2 months ago due to leaking rear main seal.
Had a new torque converter installed during last engine rebuild, so tranny has been shifting and driving like a dream.
Just drover about 30 miles on highway, all pretty flat. OD light started flashing. I didn't notice ANY change in the way it was driving, sounding, shifting... anything! I know this is some sort of oddball error with this transmission in this vehicle, but i need to know if it requires further investigation.
Also, sometimes upon starting up (i am a pizza deliver, so i often shut it off and start it again 1 minute later) the OD and (i think) the 4x4 light flash at the same time, and my windows wont work for around 15 seconds. I've also noticed that my ABS will sometimes kick in randomly on dry ground during slow stops.
I am not in the mood to just start dropping cash on random sensors or modules or repairs if i can find any solid evidence of an issue (i've been battling an EGR issue for 4 years). I was thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
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I'm replacing the oil pan gasket and the new gasket came with a half moon plastic seal. I noticed that there is a grove in the new engine at the rear of the engine but the old engine does not have this grove. Looking for info about this seal, do I need it or not?
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I have a 96 explorer, and it will just shut off, but restart ok. V6 push rod motor. It has only done it 2 times in the last 2 weeks. One time I was driving slow, been running for about 20-30 min
The other time I had left it run, while I ran in to pick up a pizza, and my wife said it just shut off, had been running around that day , but started it about 15 min earlier. I fill it up before it hits 1/4 tank....
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I recently acquired a 1996 Ford Explorer XLT with a 4.0 OHV engine 62K mile. During vehicle evaluation I found a small coolant leak on coming from the timing cover gasket. I had the timing cover gasket and water pump replaced by a trusted mechanic.
Upon receiving the vehicle from the shop I immediately noticed wildly fluctuating engine temps, going above normal to nearly overheat and then suddenly dropping too cold. This would happen as I am driving at speed or at idle. I replaced the t-stat with a fail-safe type and find that it still does the temperature fluctuation. Called mechanic and he recommended burping the cooling system. Freed air in the system by topping off during cold start and adding coolant till full, and the condition seemed to improve but not fixed.
The fluctuation is much more minimal now, but the engine temp is always lower than normal on the gauge display. Before the initial service, temp gauge read dead center at operating temp always. Now it always runs colder, no matter what. The heater works too, and sometimes it seems to affect the temperature when I engage the heater during driving after warmup, the temp will start fluctuating.
I noticed that the upper radiator hose is much hotter than the lower radiator hose. In this case, after a drive the upper hose had surface temp of 200 F and lower hose had surface temp of 130 F. I have heard of backwards water pump manufacturing and I am beginning to think that is culprit. I can see the flow indicators on the upper hose showing coolant flowing from the radiator to t-stat, but hose surface temps testing suggest that it is operating backwards to me. I do not have the original water pump to comparison.
It became apparent that the fan clutch may be sticking some. When I cold start (30 F ambient) the fan runs at high rpm for several minutes before slowing. Even warm start fan will spin up with engine until second or third gear, then spin down. Is that normal operation?
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I am having a problem with my 96 ford explorer.
Usually this only happens on warmer days, but after a few starts, my car will suddenly not turn over. I have found that the only solution to starting it is by pumping the brakes about 6 or more times, fast and hard. Its not the battery because all lights and everything work.
Something it may have to do with, I just found out when going to get my car smogged, my monitors reset everytime I turn on/off my car.
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Was driving into town today in my 96 Ford Explorer XLT v6 4wd, when I noticed my O/D off light flashing. I thought to myself, "Another problem I have to bash at with a wrench to get going again." I figured that meant I'd be stuck with gear 1 and would burn some extra gas on the ride home, but after parking and running an errand, woe behold me but my car won't start! The starter turns, but no other noises come out of my now very-large paperweight. I've tried shifting into neutral, moving the car to get the gearbox turning, starting the car in neutral and park, yet the stubborn car remains dead. Am I drawing a connection between the light and the failure to start where one need not exist?
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When car is started, volume on radio is very low. As the car warms up, the radio volume increases. What do I check or fix?
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