My 1996 Ford Explorer makes this dreadful droning noise - but only when the outside temperature is above 78 degrees and the engine is warm. This is summer 3 and it seems to get louder and louder each year. The doing is loud. I am embarrassed in parking lots. It does not matter if a/c is on, or the fan. The noise goes away with throttle. Which may mean the engine vacuum is involved in the noise.
View 4 RepliesIt doesn't happen all of the time and it's not consistent as to when it occurs. Originally, I thought it happened when it was cold outside, but since it's been pretty cold here lately, I have not heard it. Also, it has occurred when the engine was warm (after driving for 20 min or so).
It sounds like it's coming from the engine block, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a 1996 ford explorer 6 cylinder 4.0L engine with approx 249,000 miles.
Yesterday after about a 2hr drive as soon as I got off on the interstate exit and started to slow down my Explorer made this horrible sound that almost sounded like a power drill or the engine over revving. Then it did it every time I would slow down for anything after that. At first I thought it may have been the transmission so I took straight to a tranny shop, and by the time they got around to looking at it (several hours later) they said they could not find anything wrong with it and could not reproduce the noise. So I started driving home and about an hour into the drive it started doing it again. It only makes the noise when you take your foot off the gas. As soon as you touch the gas pedal it immediately stops. Someone told me it may be the bearings in the tension pulley, does this make sense ?
View 10 RepliesI have a 96 explorer 4x4 that i just bought and it has wheel shake. It also has a slight noise coming from pass front. So i jack it up and there is zero wheel play. I spin the wheel and it spins kinda freely until about 3/4 away around then it has some resistance to stop the wheel. Im thinking that could maybe a rotor a lil warped but not sure. Same wheel there are wires showing on the inside. Now i try the driver side and i cannot spin that wheel it has resistance all the time. So could this be hub or maybe just bad tire?
View 12 Replies1996 Exp 4.0L OHV ... Wife drove it the other day, said made loud humming noise, then engine stalled. Drove it this am, did it to me too while idling in D with foot on brake... humms for about 1 min, and then stalls the engine... If I rev the engine, was still doing it... but came and went when I was driving then till I got her home...
I know there is a black plastic cap that makes a similar noise but not as loud, this seems like something else... and the fact it stalled the truck is bothersome... it started up then fine, but still. The only thing that is the same as when wife had it, is that both of these days are like under 10 degrees outside... So, me thinks MAP? or something else that doesn't like these REALLY cold temps? or??
I have a 1996 Explorer XLT 4x4 and I hear what I call barring making a noise when I accelerate. If it is the bearings in the rear end how expensive is this to fix? I love my truck but I'm on a fixed income and scared to death. I will not drive it until I get some sort of idea as to what and where I should take it.
View 2 RepliesCan the power window regulator motor on a 96 Explorer be repaired? I can hear the motor make a thump noise but it is bound. I have seen videos on earlier model Fords where the motor can be taken apart and the plastic spheres can be replaced but I didn't know if that can be done on a 96 model.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
We bought our 2010 RX last December--dead of winter--and never noticed this until this week, when the temps are approaching summer, like upper 80s.
The AC (and heater) fan makes a loud droning noise (low frequency, but quite loud) when the "auto" setting turns the fan to one of the two highest settings to cool the car down. Never noticed this until now because the fan never ran at the higher settings in the winter (parked in a heated garage). It makes no difference which vent setting is used, the loud drone from the fan is the same as long as it is running at the higher speeds.
Also, I'm NOT talking about the fans in the seats. This is the big fan behind the dash. Manually decreasing the fan speed reduces the drone, which becomes almost inaudible at lower fan speeds.
I have just purchased my first Toyota, a 2015 Camry LE. It is, of course, a 4 cyl. and is white with a gray interior. I have been car shopping for two months, and when I got to test drive it, it felt like wearing my favorite jeans. Smooth, roomy and well equipped for a base model. $6k off sticker didn't hurt matters either
That said, I noticed a pretty significant drone last night while traveling at about 70 mph. I did not hear it during the test drive, but that's not saying it wasn't there. There's no vibration I can feel...just the audible drone. What do you think/know are the causes?
Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
I am struggling to find out any information regarding a droning noise coming from my engine. It generally does it when its just ticking over and disappears when accelerating.
View 4 RepliesOn two separate occasions I have been getting a droning like noise from the right side of the engine and when moving the steering wheel it still makes that same sound but changes slightly and even after when the steering was moved back and forth it still wouldn't go away so I let the vehicle run for a short while it slowly and eventually went away.. what would that sound be from?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2007 Subaru Forester X (auto) with 87,000 miles. When driving between 40-50 mph, I can hear and slightly feel a droning noise/sensation. This occurs while accelerating, braking or coasting through that speed range only. I drive on newer tires, but do not experience any shake or steering vibration. Unfortunately, I can't recall if the droning occurred before the new tires were installed. The droning noise is reminiscent of deeper exhaust note.
View 2 RepliesMy car has been making a loud droning noise that sounds like I am driving a jeep with some mud tires on it, when I turn to the left it gets smoother and when I turn to the right it gets louder.
I assume it is the wheel bearings. Unfortunately I now live in an apartment with no garage and no tools so it is a pain to check. My question is, what do I need if it is in fact the rear wheel bearings? The whole assembly is easiest I assume?
My 2002 Buick LeSabre developed a droning/humming noise from the left front related to the motion of the car and not the engine. Also, the check tire pressure warning comes on but tire pressures are ok. My husband replaced the left wheel bearings and the noise was still there. Ditto, the CV axle. Yesterday I noticed the right front tire has a bald spot around the outer edge.
View 5 RepliesI love the car, but had a few small gripes, including ride firmness and road noise. Well, the ride firmness has definitely calmed down a great deal over the first 3500 miles to now I find it has a perfect balance of handling vs. comfort. It's firm, but the bumps are not as jarring as those first 500 miles or so. I'm very happy with it.
The 2nd issue I hd/have, is road noise... or rather... I think... suspension noise. It's a faint droning/humming sound that I think comes mostly from the rear. You can start hearing it at 20-30mph on all but the smoothest of roads. The noise seems to be *in addition* to the very, very minimal tire noise I hear from the very nice stock Michelins. The harsher the road, the louder the noise of course.
My guess (and it's only a guess?) is that the metal bushing ('pillow ball') in the rear along with the other firmer suspension parts are the primary cause of this noise.
So I have tried a couple of things to try and counteract this noise:
1) Put D'amplifier Pro in the trunk - Got down the bare metal and put the stuff all of the place back there... Above the wheel wells also.
This did not stop the noise I hear.
2) I then put some sound deadening foam mats above both rear wheel wells.
This did not work.
The strange thing is that this noise is pretty faint, but unmistakable... however if I move my head forward (say, right in line with the steering wheel) 2 feet.... I barely hear it. But when I move back to the normal driving position, there it is.
About 5K miles after putting on 18x8.5 rims with 235-40 tires noted bad reverberating droning tire noise and noticed stairstep pattern of excessive wear on inside tread blocks, equal on all 4 wheels. Is this just from going from OEM ET47 to ET35? Is camber adjustment indicated and is camber adjustable also on the rear wheels? (Of course, noise and reverberation gone when OEM wheels put back on)
View 5 RepliesMy new-to-me Explorer appears to switch to 4WD high but refuses to engage 4WD low. And now I have the 6-times-flashing 4WD and 4WD low dash lights when turning the ignition on.
I used the correct procedure: Stop the car, put it in neutral, and switch to 4WD low. Nothing happens.
I looked for a ground wire from the top of the transfer case to the chassis. I can't find any such wire. All the under-hood fuses are intact.
In the process of looking for the ground wire I discovered a capped 3/8 inch or so vacuum hose about 6 inches long with a right angle fitting at the front of the transfer case. I also found a capped 2-foot-long hose of similar size connected to the top of the front differential. What the heck are these hoses? Has somebody intentionally disabled the 4WD?
I am reasonably adept at electrical repairs, troubleshooting, and modifications..
My 96 Explorer has been sputtering on me. I took a right turn one day and now its sputters at acceleration. It has a new fuel pump, filter, injectors, coil pack, plugs, wires, idle sensor, EGR valve. Also, all vacuum lines are good and not cracked or broken. My mass air flow sensor is also clean and clear. I have done all my own repairs on my cars and trucks all my life and thought I was good at it (not so sure about that now).
View 1 RepliesParked in driveway and 2 hours later it cranks but will not start. Pushed on fuel rail Schrader valve and it squirts out. Turn key and the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then off...... Thought I had fuel... assume electrical. Read posts last night and thought crank positioner pickup was a good place to look. Took spark plug leads off #1 and #4 at coil and set a 1/4 steel dowel in each so they were 1/2 inch apart. Crank motor and I get spark out of coils so I assume the plugs are getting fire... Took off intake hose and shot ether in the tube while cranking... no fire or pop at all.
Where to now ? Seems like I have fire to the plugs, and fuel available but will not start. I have only one code and that's PO1116 coolant temp out of range..I don't have a cam sensor code or a crank sensor code...I thought they might effect the timing ? With spark at the plug wires, you would think I would get a "POP" now and then, especially with the ether ?