I recently put an accidental extra 4 quarts, and I know hear a low thump ie like a piston but the engine runs fine and there is no power loss, just a simple draining off the pain I hope. The engine runs fine just notice this small metallic rhythmic thump on acceleration, and deceleration.
View 2 RepliesI recently started hearing a rhythmic squeaking noise upon decelerating. It doesn't sound as though it's coming from under the hood (such as a belt noise): it sounds like it's coming from the back right wheel area. The noise isn't very loud: it's almost impossible to hear with the radio on. It isn't constant: it gets slower and slower as I continue to decelerate. If it matters, the car is a 1995 Chrysler Concorde. I don't think it's the brakes.
View 3 RepliesHaving a problem with my 2000 Expedition AWD/4WD. When I'm braking to a stop, there's a metallic clicking coming from my LR wheel. Doesn't matter if brakes are applied or it's rolling free. Starts at about 8 mph and stops at around 2-3. Had a broken parking brake cable, but clicking is still there after replacement. What's next? Wheel speed sensor, perhaps?
View 2 RepliesI've been hearing a rhythmic, metallic ringy grinding noise coming from the driver side front end of the car that seems to be in time with wheel rotation. It happens between 5 and 40mph, worsens while the steering wheel is turned even the slightest to the right, goes away completely during left turns, reduces and becomes intermittent above 45mph, and between 0 and 5mph, as I turn the wheel to the right from any position, I hear squeaking. I recently had the front control arm, ball joints and struts replaced. It has 140k miles. What could it be?
View 4 RepliesOk - I admit, I don't have a good description of what's going on, but it's not normal. When I accelerate slowly, or go up a hill, I'm hearing a "rattling" sort of noise that did not used to be there. I have heard it also when slowly decelerating.
I need to crawl under and look, but my big concern is I'm about to go on a 2000 mile trip with a small horse trailer. Could this be a festering major engine, transmission, or otherwise problem?
I have a 1986 Ford Ranger that the battery light comes on and all lights get bright at 900 rpm on acceleration, and all lights dim and light goes off at 900 rpm on deceleration. I have replaced the battery, alternator and starter since getting the truck. I have also run ALL the wiring and found only 2 breaks which were repaired. I have had to replace headlights 3 times in two weeks, due to them blowing.
View 5 Replies2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.
View 6 RepliesMy 1998 Ford Expedition XLT with V8 5.4L engine has been having issues for about six months. It first started off with a strong gasoline and burnt rubber smell coming from the front of the car within a few minutes of starting the engine. Later, the whole car began vibrating and would intensely shudder every once in a while when idling. The car doesn't accelerate well from a standstill. The RPM will climb up to 3000-4000 while going from 0 MPH to 10 MPH, then it will lurch forward a bit and it pick up a little more speed. It struggles again around 15 MPH until it hit 20 MPH when it will lurch again and pick up normal acceleration. Once I try to go 40 MPH or more, the whole will start shuddering loudly and still struggles with maintaining speed. I have not attempted to drive over 50 MPH.
The best acceleration I can get is when I take 30-45 seconds to slowly press the gas pedal and work my way up to the speed I want.I was also following my father in another car while he drove the Expedition and on the highway, I saw sparks come out from the back of the Expedition's undercarriage when it climbed up an overpass. When driving over roads that aren't smooth, or when I accelerate, there is a sound from the back of the car like jangling chains or metal rods. It still makes the sound while the gas pedal isn't pressed or the gear is in neutral, so I think there is something, but have not seen anything underneath that could jangle around. While looking underneath, I saw that that some areas looked rusty, but not cracked. There is also a black piece under the engine that looked like it was made of plastic. It looked wet and oily and had a 2-3 inch opening in the center. I feel that there was supposed to be some sort of cover there.I now only drive it when it's unavoidable, usually once a week or less, and usually distances of 5 miles or less.I think the problem is with the use of fuel in the engine (fuel gauge fluctuates all the time, especially while driving on hills).
Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
View 9 RepliesThe vehicle in question is a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT with the 3.0L 6cyl engine and an automatic transmission.I've done quite a number of repairs already and am now trying to isolate what might be causing this particular noise.
The noise itself sounds a little bit like a rotational metal on metal sound with a dash of two washers being vibrated together. It takes no effort at all to reproduce; put the car into drive and step on the gas. The truck will happily move forward, making that drivetrain sound.
Here's the thing..
1) If you're in park and step on the gas, there's no sound.
2) If you're in neutral and step on the gas, there's no sound.
3) If you let off the gas and coast, the sound goes away immediately. Step on the gas again, and it comes right back.
To me, this seems to indicate a motor and transmission mount problem. If the engine is idling, then it isn't spinning the drive axle or rear diff.Upon acceleration, the driveline might be torquing strangely and this in turn would cause the differential yoke to spin at an odd angle causing the noise. It'd also explain why all the noise ceases when I let up on the gas; there's no more load on the drivetrain.
I don't believe it's the axle or pinion or even wheel bearings, since the car is -quite- quiet once you let up on the gas pedal...
I have a 2002 Honda CRV-LX with over 200,000 miles. I'm experiencing a loud hum and vibration between 40 and 50 mph on acceleration and deceleration. It occurs when I'm driving straight or turning left, but goes away when I turn right.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
Last week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Max with automatic transmission, 129,000 miles. It's got a higher pitched whine that increases as I accelerate between first and second gear and between 2nd and 3rd. I can't hear once it's in 3rd gear. It sounds like an RC car or early video game race car sound. I can hear it winding down as I slow down through those gears. It's also audible when the car is in neutral or park, but not then the brakes are fully applied. I can't really hear it in reverse.
I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.
It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.
Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.
Purchased an 09 Touring and so far enjoying the driving experience. Getting 42/43MPG with mostly short trips. However, I have noticed one thing unusual. Not sure if I should be concerned or if this is a normal thing. I am a rideshare driver, and whenever a group of people get out and I accelerate away from them, I hear a pretty loud thump sound. This happens usually when a group of 3 or more exits and often does not happen when one or two people exit the vehicle.
View 3 RepliesWhen driving my 2003 Volvo XC70, it sounds as if I am driving on nobby mud tires. The sound (rrrrrrrrrrrr) gets faster and slower with the cars acceleration and deceleration. I know that the sound isn't caused by the tires because I am running on Micheline Harmony tires which are fairly quite. I am concerned that it may be a gear going bad.
View 5 Replies02J-EGT 5spd. OEM axles.
Sounds like it's coming from the front. I noticed a few months ago my inner passenger CV boot was cracked, put motor mount spacers in which should have hopefully brought that axle up to okay standards. My initial reaction is to say the howling is from that CV joint however it's very odd it only happens after 35 and when I'm not heavy accelerating or deaccelerating- only when holding the car at a constant speed.
This also came after doing the TDI 5th. I notice it a little bit after passing 35mph in 3rd but really can hear it in 4th/5th when the engine revs drop. Am I right in thinking CV boot? Or transmission internal?
It seems like every time I take a corner or make any sudden acceleration/deceleration that my driver seat seems to shift around--like it's not properly anchored in my car. It's hard to explain...Any aggressive driving around corners and such makes my seat make a slight popping sound, with some slight give. I never had this problem with my mkvi TDI I used to have (although I could never take corners as fast as my R). Also, my seats are already showing wearing on the bolsters (just over 2k miles). I know others have expressed issues with this. What is everyone else doing to remedy this?
View 6 Replies2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
I have a '74 Dodge B-100 van, 318 V-8, with a 3-speed A727 TorqueFlite tranmission (which was totally rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago). Overall, this old baby that we call "Blue Thunder" is in almost pristine condition. It starts well, runs great, and over the years has been highly reliable. It's been in the family for almost 38 years and is special to all of us. I've maintained it extremely well from day one.
Here is the big problem.....under very light acceleration at the 2-3 upshift, it makes a loud-sounding and aggressive-feeling "clunk" or heavy sounding "thump". Under hard acceleration, or accelerating on an upgrade (hill), it does not make this sound at all and I do not feel or hear it at all. There are no other accompanying symptoms such as whines, roars or vibrations. I recently took it to a reputable (in business for 35 years) transmission shop recently with the above problem description. He checked the fluid and adjusted the kickdown band. This same shop had serviced the transmission a year earlier. He recommended that I let him him take it to a general auto repair shop down down the street for a diagnosis on the "loud clunk" ....as he did not think it was a transmission problem.
I agreed for him to do so since, the shop "down the street" is also known for quality repair work. The written problem description was sent aong with the van. In a week or so, the auto repair shop called and said all they could find was a little wear in the spider gears in the rear differential. I gave them permission, since the differential was already open. to replace anything that looked like it needed to be replaced. It took a while to get the parts, but they replaced the spider gears, both side bearing cups, and 1 of the differential bearing adjusters. Of course the work included new gear oil and gasket for the differential cover. It was an onerous bill, but I didn't complain, thinking that the terrible "clunk" would be gone. I picked up the van and immediately noticed no difference at all. The loud "clunk" was still there under the exact same conditions.
I took it back and asked the owner to ride with me where upon I easily recreated the "clunk" by accelerating very lightly. He said, "Oh, that's in the transmission, because it's only makes the sound when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear". I called the transmission shop back and they want nothing to do with it....saying that a noise like that one is practically impossible to pinpoint. He said even if the transmission were rebuilt, he cannot guarantee the noise would not be there. Both shops say the U-joints, yokes, engine mounts, and transmission mount all look OK.
Over the past couple of weeks my truck has developed a pretty consistent metallic buzz on light/moderate acceleration. At first I thought it was a heat shield rattling, but I've been under it a dozen times and can't find anything loose to make the metallic buzz that I'm hearing... I can pound on several places in the exhaust system with my palm and it seems solid/connected everywhere. V10 truck??
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