Ford - Expedition :: 2006 - Loud Pop When Backing Up With Wheels Turned
Jul 25, 2012
I have an 06 Ford Expedition 2WD with 97,000 miles. Whenever I am backing up with the wheels turned hard to the right (such as backing out of a parking space) there is a loud pop on the driver's side after about 1/2 to 1 full wheel revolution (I am guessing about that part but that seems about right - the point is it's not real far). When I drive forward with the wheel turned the same way there is a similar sound, though less distinct. I have not heard it with the wheels turned left, and the sound only happens when the wheels are turning and it is one distinct pop (no grinding or clicking or anything, just one pop) on the drivers side. I have read guesses that cover pretty much every component on the front end.
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1997 Ford F150, 6cyl, 138K miles. The truck has a loud squeal when the wheels are turned. This occurs when it's stopped or at low speeds (can't really tell if it's happening at other speeds ?). A friend who's a mechanic, upon hearing the noise, said he thought it was either tie rods or ball joints. I replaced the tie rods (original ones) and the squeal remains. Is there any definitive way to determine if indeed the ball joints are causing this noise ? When I posted before, someone suggested I may have a bad serpentine belt pulley, but the noise seems to be coming from the front end, and not under the hood.
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So my 2004 explorer 4.0 XLT sport has a strange clicking noise every so often. I first noticed it when I back out of a parking spot, at one point almost every time I hear a loud snap, sounds like a bolt breaking. Wheel is turned and backing up.
If I get out and have wife do it of course the noise is gone and doesn't reappear. Also if I drive down a parking lot slowly I can hear a clicking noise if I roll the windows down. This sounds like a nail in a tire, click, click click at regular intervals.
But, put the rig on a lift and you don't hear anything. Nothing, I am thinking I have a damaged axle up front but don't see anything out of the ordinary. No torn axle boots, no looseness, nothing. It's a 4x4 not full time so even in 2wd the front axles are turning.
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1999 ford expedition 5.4L ....I have been hearing a loudish (I can hear it in the cab) humming noise coming from the engine bay. I don't hear it when the truck is cold (1 to 5 minutes after starting), seems to get louder at it its peak (the more I drive). When i open the hood, the humming is coming from the intake. I am a pretty handy guy, just at my witts end right now....not sure, but I was thinking brake booster?
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I own a 2006 GS300 for 4 years and I have about 90k miles on it. Just suddenly today when I went to go turn the car on, I hear a rapid loud clicking noise and the engine will not start. I've done some googling and one possible solution is to disconnect the battery to let the car reset and then connect it back. What the cause is? I've replaced the spark plugs a few months ago, but I didn't replace the battery.
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I have a 2003 GMC Yukon XL 1500 4 WD. Ive been getting a loud bang ( like a hammer strike on the front frame) on occasion only after backing up and it happens after the truck moves forward a bit. You can almost feel the truck loading up and then it gives with a loud hammer like bang. Ive had a tech check the front end and do an alignment. I had thought it might be a brake hanging up.
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Our brakes sends out a loud screech but only while it's backing up. (78k miles)
Is it time to change the pads?
Should we service the brakes at the dealership or private auto shop?
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The scene: 22k miles on a 2010 Prius II. Loud rear brake squeal, worse when backing, but still present going forward at low speeds. Does not seem to go away even when warmed up. I put it off having it checked at first because a little rust on the pads is very common in my climate.
At the dealer, the tech tells me I've worn completely through the pads and scored the rotor! At 22k! On a Prius, for crying out loud! It's not my driving, either, because that's the first I've ever had anything done to rear brakes on any car before 75k. The front brakes needed no attention at all. I challenged the service tech with these points; he even took me back into the shop to show me. The caliper pistons were moving freely, for what it's worth. Ultimately he just shrugged me off.
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My 2000 explorer has picked up a clutch chatter when taking off with the wheels turned. It is AWD, and has an 8.8" LS rear end with and 173k on the clock. Is there any good way to tell where the chatter is coming from? I know how to check the TC clutch, but it requires dropping one of the driveshafts.
I may try changing the rear diff lube, as I am sure it's never been done. They say "lube for life" but no fluid can last forever, I would think.
Also, on that note... a couple years ago I had a pinion seal leaking and the shop said it was 2 quarts low when they fixed it and said "rear diff damage has probably already occurred" on the ticket. While that is possible i suppose, would think i would have major problems right away as the diff only holds 2.5 qts (IIRC). Least wise, that was probably 50k miles ago when I had it fixed.
More than likely, the mechanic was an idiot and it was only .5 qts low, as i'm 99% sure that they left the pinion nut loose when he did the job. (had a terrible vibration that mysteriously went away when i brought it back for them to find out what is going on .. they said they didn't do anything, but it was fixed when i got it back ... they don't get my business anymore)
Anyway ... would i be able to feel that clutch chatter with one rear wheel in the air and the trans in neutral? Assuming the worst case scenario, and the TC clutch is going out, how big of a deal is it? Can i get another 20K-30K out of it before it gives up the ghost?
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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So I had my car at the dealer today. still is at the dealer. They say that they cant hear a loud pop when backing out and pulling into spots while cutting the wheel hard. I need to go back and show them tomorrow.
The noise occurs when stopping very hard it will pop about 3 times then if you pick up hard or step on it it also pops. then it pops when pulling in and out of parking spots and you cut the wheel hard.
Suspension popping in the front. I told them strut bearings but they said they were fine.....
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I have a 2006 Ford Expedition that runs perfectly with one exception, It will shut off all of a sudden. I can be driving down the highway or in town and all of a sudden it will just stop running. This has happened twice in the past six months. So far I have been able to get to the side of the road safely.the vehicle will immediately start and run perfectly as if nothing has happened. No error codes.
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Specifically for a 2006 Expedition 4R75E . What the stall speed of the converter for this truck is supposed to be? The reason I ask is that the converter seems rather loose. At any point during acceleration the converter will allow the engine to rev up to 2500 RPM, depending on how hard I press the gas.
During normal (for me) acceleration the engine will come up to 2000-2200 rpm and just hover there through all 3 gear changes, then when the vehicle is up to speed and I let off the gas, the converter will lock and the rpms will settle down to something less than 2000 (assuming I'm not going over 75mph) if I press it a little harder, the rpms will come up to about 2500 and just hover there through all the gears, then lock when I let off. the only time a gear change will result in a lower rpm is if the engine is spinning over 2700(ish) rpm.
I'm not sure there is a problem, I'm just curious what the stall speed is supposed to be. if it is supposed to be a 2400 rpm converter, then the behavior makes sense, but if it is supposed to stall closer to 2000, then I'm thinking it might not be working as designed. I've tried to find this on my own, but I don't know where to look.
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My 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
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Have a 2010 Camry XLE, 47000 miles. I'm beginning to notice a weird, almost like "scraping" sound when I go from reverse to Drive with the wheels turned when it's cold. It only seems to happen when it's cold (sitting overnight in a garage). Once the car's warmed up and even allowed to sit for 8 hours in a parking lot in the sun, I don't notice the sound. The sound isn't horrible, nor is it loud, but it's definitely a noise that shouldn't be occurring.
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When I turn my wheel, i hear this sound like im rubbing my lip but not as loud.... Is this something I should be worried about... or am I just rubbing my fender lining?
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1 year ago bought a 2003 Ford Ranger 5-speed manual. For last two months I occasionally get a loud clang from the rear, with short locking of rear wheels and sudden lunge when accelerating from stop. I can also get occasional clang when cruising down city streets in fourth gear. Tonight when accelerating from stop wheels locked and no sudden kick in and lunge forward. Finally got truck to go and crawled home. I've taken the truck into my mechanic twice, but of course it performs perfectly normal when they drive it. And no, it isn't just the way I drive. It's an occasional problem but getting more serious.
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Is there any quick fix for this? My steering wheel is slightly turned when the wheels are pointing straight. I thought a wheel alignment would fix this, but it didn't.
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This is kind of an odd ball problem since I have not encountered this before, but every time I turn my wheels full left or full right and start moving a really high pitched squeaking sound comes from the front of the car. Is it bad alignment or wear sensors on the brake pads rubbing? the brakes have a lot of pad left so i find that hard to believe.
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01 crown Victoria, ac was recharged but it doesn't blow cold or hot air. When it is turned on, my car would make a very loud vacuum noise, that's embarrassing. The rpms go up, and if I'm at a stop light I have to hold the brake or the car would take off.
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While I was driving today, I noticed a "whining" noise that sounded like a belt squealing that got louder as I increased speed. I pulled over to check the see if it was in fact a belt, and when the engine was revved in park, I heard nothing. As soon as I started to move, the noise started, then increased in volume.
I assume that this is some sort of wheel related problem.The sound seems to be coming from the right rear wheel. I just got back from the dealer. The tech said that the main bearing in the drive shaft is bad. They have to replace the whole drive shaft to fix the problem. I am glad that it didn't completely fail while on the interstate, I bet it would have done some damage.
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