My 2003 Expedition has begun to "stutter" when I am cruising around 35-50 MPH and not giving it much gas. If I am accelerating, or take it out of overdrive, it does much better. It is not an engine skip, more like a hesitation in the transmission. I recently had the transmission fluid changed.
View 4 RepliesMy 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
OK as you most know I have been having trouble with a Misfire on my truck. The PCM keeps giving me a OBD code of P0351. I have driven the truck the last few days with out running the AC and I have no problem with the truck. It runs great. When I turn on AC about 20 minutes into driving my truck starts misfiring and I get the p0351. Was wondering why the Running the AC would cause this?
View 8 RepliesSo I just got myself an 03 Eddie Bauer 5.4 Expedition.
It's been sitting for at least 2 years and the exterior is in great condition. Other than tires, spark plugs, oil change, antifreeze, and possible tranny fluid change, what else should I look into replacing / fixing?
I bought this vehicle to be used as a daily driver and sit on the weekends, but I'm not sure how neglected it is, I bought if off some close relatives who really never used it. It has 180k miles roughly and like I said, it's been sitting for 2 years.
I've done a fair amount of research on oil/fuel additives like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas, etc. A lot of mixed opinions on it, and it seems to be a case by case kinda thing.
I just want this vehicle to last and run well. I'll do anything recommended to make sure it's running well
Replace them? Have a new set on the shelf, however, the 252k ones that are installed now give no high ohm readings.
View 9 RepliesI'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
View 11 RepliesWhat can cause shutter in 1998 f-150 4.6 4x4 4r70w when slowly accelerating?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4.6L 4x4 Auto and it's having an issue. My truck has recently developed a stutter when accelerating. It feels like a serious misfire and actually pulled a code for a misfire on cylinder 7 (although I haven't been able to get the code to appear again). The plugs are pretty new, I think I only have around 10k miles on them so i figured it might be the coil pack. I bought 2 new coil packs but only one was in stock so i replaced it on the drivers side bank (which controls cylinder 7) and it didn't fix my problem. When I first start the truck and drive it, it isn't very noticeable, but as I drive the truck for a few minutes, the stutter gets more violent. I will replace the other coil pack tomorrow, but I have my doubts it's the problem. It acts just like a bad coil pack.
View 9 RepliesThe engine on our Ford Expedition (2003) has started quitting for no reason. The engine light does not come on. We might be driving and it just stops or stopped at a light or turning into the driveway and it just turns off. Often it we simply turn it back on and it is fine but occasionally it is difficult to restart.
View 3 RepliesLubricating each door switch has not work to fix the "door ajar" issue on a 2003 Ford Expedition EB model. I have traced both front door wires to a single harness plug, but have not been able to find a pin-out description. Where on the wire harness each door ajar switch can be tested?
View 12 RepliesMy 03 Expedition A/C quit working, the compressor was cycling on and off so I took it in to be recharged thinking it was low. They said was completely out and it took 3.5lbs to recharge although they couldn't find any signs of leaking. When they recharged it they put more dye in to find the leak, the technician said he suspected a compressor since it was completely empty and had been working in the spring.
I was hoping it was a compressor as I have changed one before on my 97 Expedition and am pretty comfortable with it, however I can't see any thing leaking using a UV light. I have checked the compressor and every line I can see all the way back to the rear (it has rear air). When they recharged it worked very good for about 8 days on the 9th day it was working and went from blowing cold to hot instantly. Where or what to look for??
Wife put fuel in my truck drove it home and as soon as I started it back up it was running rough as hell. When I got to the freeway it got real rough at 1500 rpms in overdrive. If I bring it up over 2000rpm it's better but still feels rough. When I got off work and started it up I got the p1316 code.
I did some research tested plugs on the valve covers a few pins were over 5ohms so pulled the valve covers did the 50cent mod to shimm the under valve cover wiring harness. All pins are around 3.5 ohms. It did not fix the problem.
I then dropped the tank thinking maybe the pick up was gunked up. I've read all the horror stories about the delamination in Ford tanks. Good news is that I have a plastic fuel tank. Bad news is the screens though dirty weren't dirty enough to cause my problems. Where should I go from here?
My 2003 Aviator kind of stutters when in auto between gears. Most prevalent from 3 to D when driving regular. If I shift manually and tach it to 4k there is no stutter/vibration. My engine light is on and pretty sure the catalytic converter need to be changed. All new NKG plugs and associated coils. Throttle body clean, 91+ fuel only. Could this me a tranny starting to fail or computer/senor related? No other codes than the bank-2 O2 sensor....
View 2 RepliesJust picked up a 03 Excursion limited 6.0, traded in my 04 f150 for it. Runs great- The dealer put in a new FICM and did a full tune up on it, also has stock bolts, NOT studs. I just added a SCT livewire with canned tunes, and have what feels like a misfire or stutter at high boost/ RPM. The only thing I see on the SCT gauges is the ICP hits about 22.5 and then drops off, that is with the street tune, when i go back to stock i can hit 24+ all day without a issue. Both tunes have my FICM at 48-48.5 and never moves. The ICP Duty also in both tunes will go to about .7-.8 and never drops... Is this the fuel pressure dropping from lack of the "Blue Spring mod" ?
View 7 RepliesMy wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Sometimes while moving. Other times when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During the trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve.
After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 f150 5.4l has developed a slight stutter when I turn from a stop or go from reverse to drive or vise versa. I had thought it was the IAC so I replaced it but the issue is still there. There are no engine codes and it does not miss fire at idle or while driving. The problem appears to be happening only when the a/c is on. Could the belt be the cause?
View 4 RepliesMy vehicle would not turn over and we could tell it was fuel related. The fiel pump relay has burnt through the motherboard of the fusebox. It is my understanding that this cannot be fixedand another fusebox must be installed. I have been to many junkyards in my are looking for it to avoid the dealer prices..all of the expeditions that we have found locally have already had the fusebox pulled. Any other vehicles that this might be interchangable with? My friend has an 01 expedition..would this work?
View 1 RepliesI just had an exhaust manifold replaced on my F-150. It has the small 8 cyl.. While the manifold was leaking, the truck of course ran like crap.....spitting, sputtering, barfing, etc.
Now that the manifold work has been done, the truck runs pretty well, except for some intermittent increase in throttle (not by me) when cruising at highway speeds. This is comparable to the "feathering" of the throttle that you would do when checking for engine noises.
Hard to explain without feeling dopey, but kind of a mild ruuum, ruuum, ruuum out of nowhere when I'm cruising along. I drive a 5 hr. trip every weekend, and it will do this about every 10-20 minutes.
My 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
View 9 Replies2000 F250 7.3L ZF 6spd 4x4 regular cab long bed 253k
DP F6 chip, 4" exhaust, WW2, EBV delete
I run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic. Oil was changed about 1,000 miles ago. I also added a quart of Hot Shot stiction eliminator. I use Power Service and Stanadyne lubricity in every tank. Fuel filter is new.(motorcraft)
For a month or so its been acting weird. I get a stumble/miss/stutter, at random, but mostly under hard acceleration and high rpm (specifically approx 2500-2800rpm). It will also do it on decel when I lift after accellerating . Recently, I noticed it is also idling roughly. The engine is shaking and it feels like a miss. When it does its "thing" it sounds like a single "knock". Occassionally, it sort of sounds like an injector "buzzing". I've been using the "stock" tune for the last few weeks, to minimize any chance of engine damage, as I have to drive it. Turning up the chip makes the problems more noticeable and happen at a lower rpm. The truck has plenty of power, and pulls hard, except for the "stutter". If I hold my foot in it to "push through" the initial stumble at 2500 or so, it will keep going a few hundred more rpm, and then really start bucking.
There are no meaningful codes. I DO have:
EBV related soft codes - makes sense since its deleted.
Overboost related codes- from turning the chip up - won't happen in stock setting
A soft code for the back pressure SENSOR. I have a new one and will be cleaning the tube when I get a chance. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference in the miss issue.
I have recently done the following in pursuit of a solution to all this:
New IPR (autozone) valve and pigtail
New ICP (motorcraft) and pigtail ( sensor had oil in it)
New CMP and pigtail. (2 actually. First a standard pc139 for the obs, and currently a Napa echlin correct for '00) No change. Although it initially had the dreaded Ford small head light grey sensor and failed cct for #3 & 8. After the cps change, it passed cct.
Accellerator Pedal Position Sensor. It would not read any higher then 3.95v at wot, and only 0.50v at idle, so I installed a new one. After adjusting it a little, I have 0.76v at idle, and 4.02 at wot. Didn't affect the stumble issue, but it seemed to greatly improve/eliminate my parking lot speed "bucking".
I just did the UVCH's. The passenger side was pretty much unplugged. But they all looked good. No burnt, melted,or chafed wires anywhere. I probably could have just plugged it back in, but I changed both sides with new Motorcraft parts anyway. I did the gaskets and the uvch, but not the engine side harness/pigtail, as they looked ok. I also did the 0.50 mod as a preventative measure. After seeing the unplugged harness, I really thought this would be the end of the problem, but its not. Very frustrated.
As a side note, I was surprised to see that I have 8 AD injectors, and not an AE in cyl 8.
I have an old outdated snapon scanner. Its only good up to '99, but I am able to scan my 2000 as a '99. I think I'm missing some pids though.
I can do cct and buzz test, but no PERDEL readings.
As far as ICP, it idles at about 450psi, at approx 12% IPR dc. On a brief 2nd gear wot run, it will hit (and hold as long as I have road to stay in it) a little over 2900psi, at 41-42% IPR duty cycle. I did notice, during these near instantaneous stumble events, ICP would flutter on the scanner about 75-100psi. Its almost too quick to even see it.