Ford - Expedition :: 1999 - Shudder More Pronounced When Braking / Accelerating
Aug 30, 2012
I have a 199 Ford Expedition that started shuddering several months ago. The shudder was the most pronounced when braking, but was also pretty bad when accelerating and letting off the accelerator.I took it to a Nationally recognized service center. They charged me over $1,200 to replace everything associated with my brakes, but the shudder, (although no longer so pronounced when braking), was still there.Their best guess was the “U” joints, but since they had just a little play in them, they weren't sure that that would cause so much shudder.I took it to a Ford dealer. They had it for 3 days, and charged me $366 for a diagnosis that I had 3 different brand name tires, and the All Wheel Drive was having difficulty keeping the wheels in sync.The problem seems to be most pronounced when letting up on the accelerator Also pronounced when accelerating, not as much so as when letting off the accelerator, but when cruising steadily with my foot on the accelerator, it nearly goes away.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
The truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
View 7 Replies
I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
View 2 Replies
2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
View 10 Replies
So my '99 F350 4x4 is making a clunking sound and there is a distinct jolt in the truck while this is occurring.
Symptoms: From a stop while accelerating, there is a distinct jolt and clunk. The best way I can describe the feeling is like something isn't tightened down all the way so there is a split second while inertia is generated and the "looseness" catches up to the acceleration.
When stopping, the clunk and jolt is generated when the truck comes to a complete stop. When the truck rebounds backwards a bit because of the suspension pulls it backwards after stopping, you will hear the clunk again.
I replaced the ball joints a week ago an a wheel hub bearing on the right side. I don't recall this before these repairs, but it may have been making this noise. I was more focused on the grinding from the wheel bearing so I may not have noticed the clunk and jolt then.
Where I should start looking for the problem?
View 14 Replies
Truck is a stock 2001 f250 7.3 with 205,000 miles. When accelerating or braking from about 40-60mph it starts to shake a little bit. When braking it shakes a lot more from 60 down to 40. But the faster you speed up the less it shakes when taking off. Looked at everything underneath is tight, and it has stock a stock steering stabilizer. Would a new stabilizer fix this you think?
View 7 Replies
My 2002 Ex 4x4 developed a shudder during breaking. Today while trying to jack it up and put on jack stands. My 2 3/4 ton jack was too weak/short to lift it up to put on stands. I am using 6 ton stands just to lift the front.
So have to get new jack. Keep in mind I don't have a ton of cash for new jack. What size are you all using to get your ex up on stands?
View 14 Replies
So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
View 11 Replies
So Ive got slotted rotors with Hawk pads up front. I put them on a while back, pads are probably getting to the end of their life. Rear brakes and rotors were done by the dealer recently. X code springs up front, stock springs with RAS in the rear.
Under quick, semi-hard braking I get some heavy shudder, not sure if its from the from or the rear. I had been thinking it was probably the brakes themselves, and planned on addressing the fronts soon. But then I read something around here about axle wrap under braking, and am now wondering if that's the cause. I am pretty sure that big rubber cone on my rear springs is gone, and I read that that is what prevents axle wrap.
View 4 Replies
My trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
View 14 Replies
In june of 2014 I purchased a 2012 F150 Harley Edition with the 6.2 for my wife to use as a daily driver. I told her that she could have any vehicle she wanted and she chose the White Harley Truck.
It is a Ford Certified Pre Owned and we took delivery with about 30,000 miles on the odometer.
From the test drive in June 2014 until today the truck has had two distinct issues with the rear end and suspension:
1. After coming to a normal stop (at a light) when you start to accelerate (on green) there is a distinct thunk that is heard and felt. Having owned other vehicles with a slip yoke drive shaft I knew right away that the slip yoke needed to be cleaned and lubricated and that is how the dealer repaired this issue. The repair lasted about 10,000 miles and the thunk started again recently.
2. Also after coming to a normal stop and then accelerating there is a vibration felt until the mass of the truck is moving along at about 20 MPH. It's not a vibration like a wheel/tire is out of balance it's more like the whole vehicle is shaking similar to the Space Shuttle Experience ride at the Kennedy Space Center. The shudder is severe enough that my elderly neighbors asked if the truck "was going to make it without falling apart" when my wife and I took them to dinner one evening. The Shudder is exponentially worse when towing any kind of trailer. I have a tandem axle car hauler to haul a 1992 Jeep YJ to various events and the whole setup might weigh 5000 LBS max which is well under the tow capacity of the truck. To say the shaking is violent is putting it lightly.
When I took it in for service, the dealer told me that it was my fault for riding around with the locking differential locked. I told them nice try and that I know what a locking diff is and how to use it because I have two of them in my Jeep. I then took the service advisor for a ride, made him verify the diff is off and demonstrated the problem without even leaving the parking lot. At that point he acknowledged the condition I left the vehicle with him again. The repair the dealer made was to change the rear differential fluid and called me to say the truck was ready.
I drove back to the dealer again (35 minutes in light traffic) where I was presented with the vehicle. I didn't have to leave the lot before I knew it still was not fixed and pulled back into the service lane. I was greeted by the advisor who then proceeded to tell me it was "characteristic of the vehicle." I was completely frustrated and took my truck with it's "characteristic" shudder home.
View 11 Replies
So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 Replies
My mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
View 9 Replies
So I bought my R with 9000 miles on it, and I noticed a little bit of shudder when braking. For some reason it is starting to get a little worse.....and I haven't been bagging on it. Really, warped rotors....at 9k.
View 24 Replies
While I am loving the fuel millage and ride of my new truck, I have my first concern. In the last few weeks i have hauled a truck bed full of dirt, and 3300 lbs of sod. both times i would use tow haul mode, and while the truck had plenty of power, it would shutter when accelerating from a stop. Mostly first gear 0-15 mph.
This is my truck with a fancy electronic controlled transmission, so on the old pickups this would be a torque converter slipping, but all the ford dealer wants to tell me is "its electrical and they want to reflash my transmission". I am at 26k miles and have less than 10k left on my warranty...
View 14 Replies
Looking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).
View 3 Replies
I got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
View 24 Replies
I replaced the pads and rotors on the front end of my 2002 maxima (it had a shudder when braking from speed). By mistake, I did loosen the spindle nut, but re-tightened it. Braking is smooth, but I am plagued by noise. Used CRC on the back of the pads, have pulled the tires/wheels 3-4 times looking for looseness, mistakes, etc…. This is a pretty simple job – right? Even had the front wheel off my other 2002 (yes – I have 2…love this year/model) and compared them.
Did I cause an issue with the loosening and re-tightening of the spindle? Is this just a spline? I have it “wrench” tight and it had not loosened up even with 500 miles driving. There is not any play in the wheels mounted to the axle… What do I need to look at next?
View 9 Replies
2010 Camry LE 4 Cylinder (~76,000 miles)
I purchased new tires for my Camry at a mileage of about 70,000 (~11/2015). I do mostly city driving. A few months ago I sometimes started noticing a steering column shudder upon braking when traveling at higher speeds (~50+ mph). I read on the web that this type of shudder is typically caused by warped rotors.
I was considering getting a front brake job (new rotors + pads), but decided to get a tire balance/rotation. It was reported that the right front tire was out of balance and that now all four tires are in balance. After the Balance/Rotation, the problem was still there but not as bad (Shudder reduced by at least 50% over what was experienced before the balance/rotation).
I went to a brake shop and discussed the problem and they said that they suspect that there may still be a problem with proper tire balancing. They recommended a second opinion on whether or not the tires were properly balanced. They did not explain 'second opinion' so I went to where the tires were balanced two weeks earlier (Discount Tire) and they did a free balance check and reported that all four tires are still balanced.
Basically, I have no detectable shudder at less than ~50 mph. All rotors and pads are the original ones that came with the car when it was new.
View 2 Replies
About 20000 miles on it, had dealer service a couple weeks ago. Going to a friends this evening. Stopped at an intersection when accelerating again, there was a shudder for a second, different than the normal motor start up. Then I noticed the CEL light and the Hybrid system light were on. No place to pull off the road so continued on about 1/2 mile to the friends condo and pulling in the parking lot it seemed like the engine was in safe mode, reduced power, so parked it there and got a ride home.
View 14 Replies
2006 Prius ...
Symptoms: The shudder feels like going over a "washboard" dirt road. It mimics the normal "cough / hesitation" that occasionally happens when the MG2 switches to the ICE while accelerating, or vice versa at a stop light. However, unlike the normal switching, this is continuous. It ONLY happens when accelerating; as soon as I lift my foot from the gas, the shudder quits. Although it is worse in stop-and-go, it is also noticeable on a clear freeway. It is worse with a cold engine, but continues from speeds of 10 mph all the way up to 80 mph (and probably higher.) The shudder is slower at lower speeds, and faster at higher speeds. It is most dramatic when making a left turn from a dead stop - the whole vehicle shakes. Weather conditions vary, but usually it happens on dry, paved roads, anywhere from 30-degrees to 75-degrees (F).
Frequency: first noticed a few months ago, gradually becoming more frequent. Now, it is almost every time the car is started. (Sometimes it accelerates without any problem at all.)
Diagnostics: The "Check Engine" light has been on for about 5 years (dealerships couldn't find anything wrong and it turned out to be the MG1 battery.) But when this new shuddering happens, the "Check Engine" light blinks continuously until the shuddering quits (i.e. let off the gas or brake.) There are no other indicator lights on (no triangle of death). And the diagnostics mode tells me nothing.
Other Info: The MG2 battery has not been replaced in the entire life of the vehicle. The MG1 battery was replaced, however, about 2 years ago. Regular oil changes have been kept up, along with air filter replacements, brake pad replacements, tire rotations, and all the other standard maintenance. It has had one owner, and is at 255,000 miles. MPG is currently at about 44.4 and has not changed since this problem started.
View 11 Replies
