Ford - Escort - Zx2 :: 2002 Won't Start When Engine Is Cold
Apr 29, 2011
My 2002 Ford escort won't start when the engine is cold, and by cold I mean less than about 80 degrees F. I have to crank it multiple times to get it to start, and then it usually runs for a little while and dies. When I first start it, if I press the gas it dies immediately. Once the engine is warmed up, it runs perfectly and you would never know there is a problem. It also starts fine if the engine hasn't been off for very long, and is still warm. I have already replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, and fuel pump. I have also run fuel system cleaner through it, and changed the oil/filter.
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A friend of a friend has a 1990 Escort 1.9L automatic with a TBI setup. It has a random no-start condition that only seems to act up when its cold outside (below 20 F). I've only seen it act up once with minimal testing equipment, so I'm digging for answers.
The injector fires normally and flooring the pedal goes into clear-flood mode as it should. It has spark, but sounds out of time. It will attempt to fire unless the pedal is floored long enough to take fuel away. Starting fluid in addition to the fuel makes minimal difference, but results in intake backfires when you stop cranking. After a random amount of cranking, it will eventually fire and then the issue goes away completely.
Once it fired, I was able to shut it down and restart it indefinitely with no hesitation. While running, it shown no signs of being out of time, vacuum leaks, etc. I have very little experience with the EEC system, but friends suggest a TFI module. A weak or mistimed spark seems to be the cause, but I'd like a second opinion. I shook and moved every wire I could find and checked the TFI pins for corrosion - no change.
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I have a 2002 Explorer with 147K that makes a chirping sound when I start it and the engine is cold. So far I have replaced the serpentine tension-er and the water pump. After about 10 minutes of running the noise stops. With the belt off the idler pulley spins freely. It does have the original power steering pump.
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT with 151,000 miles (I have had the car for 6,000). I recently just changed the oil with 5w-30 which is the 3rd oil change I have done and have used the same brand and viscosity. It seems the oil is a little overfilled this time (maybe 1/4-1/3 of an extra quart). I noticed a knocking coming from the engine (closer to bottom of engine than top) on a cold start. It sounds like a rock being knocked against a hard surface. I can only hear the knocking if I am outside of the car, if I am in the car I can't hear it at all. The knocking lasts for maybe 20-30 seconds. If I press the accelerator (when in park) the knocking goes away, and if I let off the accelerator then it comes back. I can't really test to see if the knocking persists while driving since I can't hear it from the cab.
I know I should do all the routine maintenance when getting a used car (spark plugs, etc), but I bought from a friend who put spark plugs on maybe 25,000 miles ago.
I read that maybe I should be using different viscosity of oil in the summer (even though the manual says 5w-30 all year, I live in North Central Nebraska)? Is the knocking maybe due to the slightly overfilled oil? Should I try to drain that excess out? Should I just go ahead and replace the spark plugs and wires as well?
I drive ~750 highway miles a month and hope I can get this car to last a few years. So far it seems pretty good, have only had to change the ECT sensor and thermostat on it, suspension bushings still look good. I just never heard this noise before and it kind of freaked me out. I probably would have never heard it but I just happen to start the car and needed to grab something from the garage.
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Recently bought 2002 Camry 2.4 .... Engine has a cold start rattle in the top passenger side. The noise stops after the engine heats up in about 10 minutes. I've changed the intake manifold.... Did not work. Looking for the OCV VALVE FILTER but cannot find it ....
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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My radiator cooling fan is on all the time. This is a 93 escort wagon with the 1.9 L engine and A/C. Even when the engine is stone cold the radiator cooling fan is always on. I might note that the A/C switch is OFF and as you might guess, the A/C compressor is off as it should be. On most vehicles and I presume this escort is the same, when the A/C is activated the radiator cooling fan will be activated as well. Do you know of a few things I should check that would cause the radiator cooling fan to be activated as soon as I turn the key to start, then run, even though the engine is stone cold?
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We have a problem with my daughter's 2000 Ford Escort air conditioner. It has cold air but the blower doesn't put out any volume. We had a 1998 and it had the same problem but not this bad. Is this a problem for this car and worse for this year? How to increase the air flow?
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For the past few days I've been trying to track down the problem with my '02 Ford Escort. First thing I did was change the spark plugs which smoothed out the engine some, but I still have the PO304 (misfire #4 cylinder). Next I swapped the plug wires between #3 and #4 and reset the ECU hoping the code would come back PO303 (misfire #3 cylinder), yet it still set a code for cylinder #4 meaning the plug wires were good. I then tested the coil and camshaft position sensor which both tested good.
After this I checked the compression on #4 and it was good at 175 PSI. When I removed the #4 plug to test the compression it was gas soaked so the injector is firing, but apparently not the plug. My Chilton's manual says the center pin (ignition/start/run) on the wiring harness for the coil should have 10 volts with the ignition switch in the off position. I checked this and only had 0.1 volts. Where this wire receives it's voltage from and able to tell me more about what to look for or test? I never expected to have so much problem finding a cylinder misfire.
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Shakes when in drive but stopped at a red light but if I put it in neutral, it stops shaking. 2002 Ford Escort
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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Ignition coil replaced twice in 3 weeks, engine still cuts out randomly and "service engine soon" light flashes on.
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I've got a problem with my 93 ford escort. About a month ago things in it began to stop working. 1st the wipers and then the heater. and now the ignition won't start my car. It will allow it to turn over but it doesn't turn on the engine light before it starts to kick in. Bad key assembly or the whole switch? Or a relay ?
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2002 7.3 running rough.
This is my symptoms : On cold start ups engine runs rough. Idling it knocks worse than normal on the road she runs really rough. If I get on here she smooths out ( but still runs rough a bit) but normal driving at between 1200 -2000 rpm she runs so rough it shakes the whole truck. It will do this until she gets up to operating temp & then it goes away. The more she warms up the better she runs.
Once up to temp she will run perfectly. The colder it is outside the worse it is & the longer it takes for it to go away. I have replaced the valve cover gaskers and new harnesses, new glow plugs. Still same problems. I have AE and one time it gave me a #2 cylinder code. have not been able to repete this code. What to check next.
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I have a 2002 f350 that has had cold starting issues since I bought it. I have replaced the glow plugs twice, the glow plug solenoid four times. When I put a new solenoid on it it works fine for a short time. I know the solenoids are bad because I get battery voltage on one side and nothing on the other. If I jump the solenoid with a jumper wire I can get the truck to start. I thought I was getting bad solenoids but I have recently tested the activation circuit and am getting constant power there. I.e. It never shuts off. I think this is what is causing the solenoids to burn up. From the tracing of wiring diagrams I have done, the only thing before the solenoid is the Pcm. So now to the question,
1) What controls the activation of the Glow plugs? Is there a temperature sensor or something before the Pcm.
2) Is this a case of my Pcm going out on me? I am a mechanic in the army so I have a decent understanding of mechanics.
However I am at a loss for these systems.
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Got a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 300,000 miles and for the last couple of years I've been getting blue smoke on cold morning start ups and its been gradually getting worse, it clears up after about 30 seconds and all is normal,No loss of performance, Oil consumption is minor, however I hate a vehicle that blue smokes, I'm guessing my issue is valve seals are worn, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the seals while the heads are on the engine? and was also wondering how much time it would take to fix? as i would have to have it professionally done. I know its hard to guess a time frame and everyone is different. Sounds like textbook valve seals to me but is there anything else I should check first?
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95 1.9L 5 speed. 142K Runs like a champ but over the last few colder mornings, low 40's high 30's, the starter is slow to get turning. This morning it was really slow, as I held the switch to the crank position for a good 10-15 seconds before it started. To the point that the dash lights dimmed, like a larger load was on the battery. Once it starts its fine. Later in the day it starts just like it should. Just wondering if I may have a starter about to go south on me.
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I have a 93 escort with a 140,000 miles with the 1.9 and AT. Sometimes when I go to accelerate the fastest it will go is about 10mph no mater how far I have the gas pedal pushed, and the engine does not rev up at all. It just acts like I am coasting and not using the gas pedal. The car idles fine and will rev up and down when in park.
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99 escort 2.0 will not start. Has spark, fuel pressure, and 100 psi compression in each cylinder. After cranking for awhile , pull the plugs out and the plugs are wet with fuel. There is no answers anywhere on the net, but apparently there are others like this out there. No codes also.
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My 2001 Escort has two intermittent issues which I think are related. At times the car does not start when turning the key to start position there no clicking and engine does not turn over. but all other electric work. Battery and starter have been tested and both passed. Second issue is some times when it starts the shift lever will not move out of the park position. Does this car needs to have the break depressed before it will start and come out of park and could a safety switch be the cause?
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