Ford - Escort :: 2002 - Getting PO304 / Misfire On Cylinder 4
Apr 6, 2012
For the past few days I've been trying to track down the problem with my '02 Ford Escort. First thing I did was change the spark plugs which smoothed out the engine some, but I still have the PO304 (misfire #4 cylinder). Next I swapped the plug wires between #3 and #4 and reset the ECU hoping the code would come back PO303 (misfire #3 cylinder), yet it still set a code for cylinder #4 meaning the plug wires were good. I then tested the coil and camshaft position sensor which both tested good.
After this I checked the compression on #4 and it was good at 175 PSI. When I removed the #4 plug to test the compression it was gas soaked so the injector is firing, but apparently not the plug. My Chilton's manual says the center pin (ignition/start/run) on the wiring harness for the coil should have 10 volts with the ignition switch in the off position. I checked this and only had 0.1 volts. Where this wire receives it's voltage from and able to tell me more about what to look for or test? I never expected to have so much problem finding a cylinder misfire.
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Car started throwing PO304 and checked coil, plugs, wires and injectors before finally checking compression. Checked #4 and it was 70. Checked #3 and it was 150 something. Got mad and quit
3 weeks ago the CEL started coming on only when i was low in a gear. Like rolling to a stop sign and taking off in 2nd instead of 1st. Dogging the car to avoid downshifting i guess i would say. Car would jerk like crazy and throw a code but would drive out of the jerking and run fine.
There are no loud noises coming from the valves. Engine runs a lil rough at idle but you would not notice it after you get going. Spark plug #4 had some oil on the threads, others did not. No antifreeze in oil, looks good. Throws PO304 constantly now..
Buddy came over and said he would first check the timing belt to see if it had slipped before digging into the head. To tell the truth, i probably will not be digging into the head anyway's. I probably could not find the problem anyways.
Just wondering what could be some realistic explanations for losing most compression on one cylinder. Could the valve seat be getting ready to go or is that a all or none type of deal?
This is a 97 wagon with 314,000 miles. I am getting 37 MPG and it drives straight as an arrow. Just replaced all tie rods and brakes and had her front end aligned and this is how she treats me. Would like to save this car as i really like it for my 700 miles a week commute to work. Judging the price of used cars nowdays, i have thought about replacing the engine with a used one if it comes to that but we will have to see.
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I have a '98 F150 4X2 extended cab with a 4.2l with 233K on it. I have no problem with drivability when I drive 5 miles to work. However, a couple of weeks ago when I had to drive 15 miles to the liquor store to get what I needed (I live in a dry county) I got back into my truck, started it and drove of. It drove like crap like I lost a cylinder. Drove it back home those 15 miles, let it cool off, put my scanner on it and got a PO304 code and I think a PO174 (bank 2 lean) code. Went to the #4 cylinder and found the plug had loosened up.
Tightened it back up, cleared the codes, and went through my normal weekly routine of driving to work with no problem. Made a booze run the next weekend and the same thing happened. Limped back home and found another PO304 code. Found the plug to be tight and in good condition but changed all the plugs since they were cheap copper core and had 20K on them. The wires only have 20K on them, too. Installed platinum plugs, drove all week 5 miles to work and back just fine. Made another 15 mile run yesterday and the same crap happened all over again after I got out of the store and drove home.
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
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I have a 2002 ford ranger xlt 3.0 i just rebuilt the entire motor about a month ago and was having a high idle problem for the longest time. turns out i had the iac on backwards. but now that it idles down around where its supposed to it has a rough idle has a little shake to it. starts up right away but when i drive down the road around 3000-3500 rpms its missing on cylinder #3 from what the code I am getting "multiple cylinder misfire, #3 cylinder misfire" I've replaced plugs and wires. camshaft pos sensor. I am getting 65 lbs of fuel pressure. spark on all cylinders. I am really at a dead end here. Also every time I take the plugs out to look at them they look brand new.
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My truck was running fine the past few days minus a cylinder misfire and a lean code the misfire was due to a coil pack being out no big deal on that part but yesterday on 7/30/13 my temp gauge turned off my truck wouldn't go below 1k rpms and then the over heating light came on. i drove the one mile home and turned it off an hour later i went back out to my truck to get to work and it refused to start.
I decided to just hold my foot down on the gas and crank it and it eventually started drove it to work with the same symptoms. now today its doing the same thing except now the truck is broke down in the parking lot at my job the engine is flooding cause i can smell it last night i changed the thermostat. I can get so that i can get my truck up in running its a 2002 f150 5.4L 4x4....
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I have a 2002 F250 5.4 L with an intermittent Misfire. A little history on the truck in 2011 I replaced the motor with a Ford long block motor, only the block, I used my electronics, intake, etc, this was brand new from Ford. The truck has a total of over 300K miles. Recently it has developed an intermittent misfire. I have changed all the coils and plugs and the misfire is still present. The codes are showing a misfire in cylinder 3 but could be 4 too. The misfire is intermittent because this morning I changed the plugs and truck ran fine, drove to store and it started missing, turned truck off and started up and ran fine again. It has been doing this off and on for a few weeks.
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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I am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
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I bought this from my brother in better than mint condition. Always maintained. Its generating a cyl #2 misfire code.
It starts and runs like new when cold, but when it warms up, it idles rough, and generates the code. after 1500 rpm it smooths right out and runs fine.
He had it to the dealer just before I bought it and they told him needed a new engine.
I am thinking bad injector, since what seems to be happening is, when cold it gets more fuel, or when u rev it gets more fuel, but at an idle and warm, it doesn't seem to be getting enough maybe. And I see from the maintenance records, a couple of other injectors have been replaced as well.
I think the dealer got tired of replacing injectors under warranty and tried to milk him for a new engine.
2002 ranger extended cab 2wd, 3 door, 232,000 kms 5 speed 3 liter V6, new glass and clutch..
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I have an 02 Accent 1.5L that has a misfire on #3. I have replaced the head gasket, valve cover and gasket, intake gasket, timing belt, yes it was top dead center, MAF, Charcoal canister sensor, MAF, plugs, wires, coil pack, injector #3, and the compression in #3 is 130. What else to check. No other codes.
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I have a 2002 Camry, 2.4 with 155k miles.
This morning I was going to work and was making a lane change and hit the accelerator quite aggressively. Suddenly my engine started to run really rough and shook the car and the check engine light started flashing.
I checked the engine code and its giving me a P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire warning.
I have read that there can be various reasons but I figured since this problem is consistent its not a vacuum issue? Could it just be a bad plug? I don't have the tools to fix it, I am going to get them soon to pull the plugs and inspect then, and will replace them anyway since I don't think they have ever been replaced.
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I have a 2002 Elantra with 123k on it. It has been having issues with poor acceleration, rough idle, surging, and the car just overall shakes sometimes when driving. The check engine light started flashing on and off periodically today, so I coded and it and it gave me P0303, which is a cylinder 3 misfire. I checked the spark plugs, and the cylinder 3 spark plug was pretty bad, so I went ahead and replaced all 4. The wires were in mint condition, so no issues there. I also put fuel injector cleaner in just for good measure. When I went to test the car, startup and acceleration/reverse were better, but the other symptoms still persist. What I should check next???
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Car threw a multiple cylinder misfire, changed plugs, wires, and then coil packs. Code keeps coming back.
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe 4 cyl that is giving me a problem that I could use some advice on tracking down & fixing . First & most important is a code P0302 # 2 Cyl misfire. How to check the ignition coil pack , injector ,& wire for this cylinder in home garage with normal tools & meter . Is there a you tube displaying how to do this step by step ?
The other problem which I don't have the code for at this time is that some part of the exhaust is not getting warm enough & this also put's the check engine light on . Will get back on this one when I solve the main problem Misfire.
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06 F150 fx4 has cly 7 miss fire cly 6 has oil on plug .Check engine light comes on only if you step into the gas, The oil was low. If you drive normal the check engine light does not come on, but you can fill the miss when in gear. Change the plugs an coil add oil still no change.
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My 2002 Ford escort won't start when the engine is cold, and by cold I mean less than about 80 degrees F. I have to crank it multiple times to get it to start, and then it usually runs for a little while and dies. When I first start it, if I press the gas it dies immediately. Once the engine is warmed up, it runs perfectly and you would never know there is a problem. It also starts fine if the engine hasn't been off for very long, and is still warm. I have already replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, and fuel pump. I have also run fuel system cleaner through it, and changed the oil/filter.
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Shakes when in drive but stopped at a red light but if I put it in neutral, it stops shaking. 2002 Ford Escort
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I have a 2012 F-150 XLT with 5.0L V8. I am constantly getting a PO304 (misfire) error. This is what my mechanic has done to try to correct the problem. 1. replace plugs 2. replace coil 3. replace coil cables 4. replace injector kit.
The question I throw out is: What other part or adjustment is left?
After clearing the error it seems the Check Engine Light will not come one until the next morning. The engine seems to misfire then then I get the Check Engine light again.
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I have a 2001 ford windstar the codes are bank 1 lean (wires have been cut) could this cause the miss fire on the #1 and 3 cylinders? The previous owner put copper plugs in it instead of platinum. How hard is it to change the plugs?
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2004 F150 XLT 5.4l (3v)... Problem started with misfire on No.4 and then I went through the tedious job of changing every plug (all 8 broke) and coils in an attempt to resolve the problem. After the changes I had misfire on no.1 and no.2, so I changed the injector on no.2 and coil on no.1 again + had broken pigtail wires on No.4 and No.1. Now I remain with a P0301 misfire on No.1. The problem won't go away, its fine idling, but misses bad when driving. The Snapon scanner reads fine for all injectors and compression reads ok also. The mechanics are baffled and what else could it be? (rail? computer? intake gasket?)
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