We have a problem with my daughter's 2000 Ford Escort air conditioner. It has cold air but the blower doesn't put out any volume. We had a 1998 and it had the same problem but not this bad. Is this a problem for this car and worse for this year? How to increase the air flow?
View 3 RepliesI just replaced the vacuum motor that opens and closes the Max Air door as it's diaphram was ruptured. Now it is working correctly, however when I go from normal to max the volume of air coming out the vents doesn't seem to increase. The door hasn't been working for about a year and I didn't realize why. Should the volume increase going to Max or just the air get colder from recirculating? In my Dodge the volume increases consderably. Could there be trash (leaves, things dropped through the defrost vents) partly blocking the air through the evaporator? How do I access to check and clean out? Remove the blower motor?
View 1 RepliesI picked up a nicely used 98 XL in Alabama yesterday, with 106k original miles. The dealer threw in FREE oil changes for life with my purchase, but I don't see me driving 2.5 hours to Alabama for that.
It's got crank up windows, manual locks, standard tranny, 4.2 V6, and the regular seats. Yep, pretty basic. It came with a matching fiberglass shell also. The only things wrong are the radio volume doesn't adjust, and the rear window frame appears cracked. These are minor in my opinion.
What drew me to this truck was the beautiful condition it's in and my love of this body style. What would be added to improve creature comforts, performance, etc.
A few days ago I noticed that the front tweeters were producing a low volume buzz whenever the HVAC blower is running.
Let me explain it: The HVAC system is in auto, I am listening to a CD track and the track finishes. At the very short period that it takes for the new track to play I can hear that distinctive buzz coming from the front tweeters. If I now turn off the blower and repeat the same sequence I cannot hear the buzz.
I would say that the buzz frequency is not correlated to the blower speed, but it is difficult to assess because of the increased volume of the blower at high speed.
I have checked the pins and the wiring at the amplifier connectors and they are all sound, so I am wondering if the smoothing capacitor that sits at the plenum chamber fuse box might be the culprit.
The MFD works and I can change modes and stations, but no volume with the audio. Nothing for bluetooth handsfree, am/fm/aux/cd, etc.
View 7 RepliesOkay, so the car in question is a 2003 Escort ZX2 with roughly 110k on the clock. It's run like a champ up until now. My wife was driving it home from work the other day and said that there was a burning smell coming through the vents, then the coolant temp gauge on the dash went all the way to hot and stayed there, and the heat simultaneously stopped working.
She got it home and I quickly found out that the car IS NOT overheating. Something screwy is going on with the gauge and it will sit at cold for 10 minutes, then go all the way to hot, then sit in the middle, and it's just all over the place. However, the engine fan works fine and comes on at the appropriate time, the engine does not overheat at all, and other than the gauge acting weird and the heat not working, the car runs as it always has.
So, just a as a measure of preventative maintenance I replaced the thermostat, thermostat housing, and both clip-in coolant temp sensors on the thermostat housing. This seems to have fixed nothing, but oh well.
Next, I let the car heat up and checked the two hoses going to the heater core in the firewall. One hose is just slightly warm (even at full operating temperature) and the other is completely cold.
When you get in the car and attempt to turn the heat on, all the blower motor speeds work. When you turn the dial from cold to hot you can see under the dash that the cable that opens the blend doors is working fine as well. However, no heat at all, it's just cold air that comes from the vents even on the hottest setting.
The heater core isn't leaking at all, this has been confirmed.
So, I'm unsure where to go from here. The wacky coolant temp gauge seems like maybe it's the actual gauge itself that's gone south (in which case I'd need a new gauge cluster I suspect). The heat though perplexes me. Sure, the heater core could be plugged but that seems rather unlikely considering the coolant has always been regularly flushed and when you open up the radiator there's no gunk or rust or anything in the system at all.
I recently picked up my 2015 GTI DSC Autobahn White and can max out the volume when using Bluetooth music streaming and the volume at the max level is at a substantially lower level than if I was using the radio or Sirius XM. Even at max level, it just doesn't seem that loud. I'm coming from an 2013 Audi Allroad and never noticed a big difference in volume levels when using Bluetooth music streaming. I haven't had a chance to test the volume when using the MDI cable since I'm waiting for the appropriate adapter for my iPhone 6. Should there be a big difference in audio levels with Bluetooth music streaming? Is there a setting that I need to adjust?
View 5 RepliesMy 2002 Ford escort won't start when the engine is cold, and by cold I mean less than about 80 degrees F. I have to crank it multiple times to get it to start, and then it usually runs for a little while and dies. When I first start it, if I press the gas it dies immediately. Once the engine is warmed up, it runs perfectly and you would never know there is a problem. It also starts fine if the engine hasn't been off for very long, and is still warm. I have already replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, and fuel pump. I have also run fuel system cleaner through it, and changed the oil/filter.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 toyota camry with the JBL system. i replaced one of my factory door woofers with a aftermarket one. i cranked the volume up to the loudest, and then suddenly all the sounds going to all my speakers went dead.
I tried checking all the fuses that i saw said "Audio system" in both my engine bay and my driver instrument. Nothing was burnt out. even tried disconnecting the battery.
When i try to turn up or turn down the volume, no numbers show up. (showing which volume setting its at) its just blank.
Even tried the steering wheel volume control. I really don't know what else to check.
I recently got a 2002 f150 5.4. The fan speed works on 1 & 2, and 4. It does blow on level 3, but it seems to blow at the same cfm as level 2. I'm thinking this can't be right. But, if it was a simple resistor issue, it wouldn't run at all on level 3, right? So, where I should look first.
View 10 RepliesI've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
View 8 RepliesMy blower doesn't seem to blow very hard. I've been in other fords and the ac and heat blows great. Someone suggested that that I pull the fan motor and clean the blades.
View 4 RepliesI have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
View 3 RepliesI normally run my climate control in manual mode, and I notice that my blower doesn't always run at a constant speed. I know that if you use the Auto setting the fan will change speeds, but I didn't think it should do that if you are using a manual setting. Is that right?
I was thinking I would make an appointment with the dealer to check it out. But didn't want to do that if this is normal behaviour.
A friend of a friend has a 1990 Escort 1.9L automatic with a TBI setup. It has a random no-start condition that only seems to act up when its cold outside (below 20 F). I've only seen it act up once with minimal testing equipment, so I'm digging for answers.
The injector fires normally and flooring the pedal goes into clear-flood mode as it should. It has spark, but sounds out of time. It will attempt to fire unless the pedal is floored long enough to take fuel away. Starting fluid in addition to the fuel makes minimal difference, but results in intake backfires when you stop cranking. After a random amount of cranking, it will eventually fire and then the issue goes away completely.
Once it fired, I was able to shut it down and restart it indefinitely with no hesitation. While running, it shown no signs of being out of time, vacuum leaks, etc. I have very little experience with the EEC system, but friends suggest a TFI module. A weak or mistimed spark seems to be the cause, but I'd like a second opinion. I shook and moved every wire I could find and checked the TFI pins for corrosion - no change.
I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan with a heater blower that doesn't seem to be working. Whether the heater knob is on low or high, it does nothing, but you can feel a little heat coming out, though. I was told it may be a resistor behind the glove box. I've already checked the fuse, and it seems OK. What do I do?
View 6 RepliesSo the evaporator in my dads Prius had been leaking for a while so we finally decided to bite the bullet and change it. Everything came apart fine. Changed the evap and expansion valve. Put it pretty much back together except for glove box and a pillar trim pieces. Push power button twice to make sure all the flaps and blower motor works as it should. Well the blower motor doesn't come on. I hear the relay click when you turn the fan on in the mid. No power at the fan though. I checked just to be sure. I've looked all over for loose wires/plugs but have yet to find anything. I started the car up and everything works fine except the blower motor. What it could be?
View 13 Replies95 1.9L 5 speed. 142K Runs like a champ but over the last few colder mornings, low 40's high 30's, the starter is slow to get turning. This morning it was really slow, as I held the switch to the crank position for a good 10-15 seconds before it started. To the point that the dash lights dimmed, like a larger load was on the battery. Once it starts its fine. Later in the day it starts just like it should. Just wondering if I may have a starter about to go south on me.
View 5 RepliesMy 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?
View 2 RepliesThere used to be a audible pop in my stereo speaker when my heat would kick on. Now there is not. My heat did this last winter around the same time. I checked Fuses. The blower blows, but it just blows cold air. It could be a thermostat, or a clogged heater core. 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L ...
View 2 RepliesI found no heat last week in my 01 F150. The AC was cold but no blower. The heat was there but no blower. I replaced the blower motor resistor. Result: i believe a FEW of the speeds worked when turning the fan speed switch...but was intermittent. It would blow L, M, H, then nothing. I jiggled the know on the dash mounted switch and heard it on/off, on/off the motor as I jiggled. I DID notice that when I disco'd the connector off the resistor the HIGH speed worked. Is the switch on the dash perhaps crusty ? Or should I be looknig at the motor itself.
View 4 Replies