Ford - Escort :: 1999 - Weak Spark On Cylinders 2 And 4
Oct 29, 2011
My problem started five months ago and was very intermittent until now. The engine would run rough at start up either cold of hot and then run fine after about two or three miles. Now it runs rough all the time. I have installed a new ignition coil, new spark plug wires and new spark plugs. The engine starts ok but it runs rough and when I pull the spark plug wires one at a time,while it is running, the spark is very weak on cylinders 2 and 4. The spark on the other two cylinders looks good. I have checked the connector on the powertrain control module, which is a EEC-V, and there doesn't seem to be any bad connections there.
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I drive a 1995 Ford Escort (don't laugh, even though it has 328,000 miles on it). The car is generally very reliable, despite its age. The one thing that repeatedly fails, however, is its clutch cylinders. The factory cylinders lasted about 150,000 miles. The after-market models, ever since, have failed almost like clockwork every 18,000 to 20,000 miles. Either the master or slave has had to be replaced.
The longest they've gone is about 29,000 miles, but then both had to be replaced. No mechanic who has seen this car can explain why it would eat clutch cylinders so regularly. The only clue I have is their proximity to the firewall, and this model Escort was recalled for firewall problems early in its life. Why clutch cylinders would fail so regularly, and what I might be able to do to prevent it?
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Have replaced distributor, spark plugs, coil, and still have very weak, erratic spark. Plugs getting plenty of fuel, won't start. What else I should do?
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I want to remove the spark plugs but unable to loosen them. How I can easily loosen them up without breaking them?
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I want to change the spark plugs and wires in my 1996 Ford Escort (1.9 Engine).
The problem is trying to remove the No. 1 spark plug boot and spark plug. Both are located behind the alternator and are difficult to get to. I tried a boot puller but could not get easy access to the boot to pull it off the spark plug. The other three boots and spark plugs are readily accessible.
Is it sufficient to place the dielectric compound just inside the opening of the boot before placing it back on the spark plug, or should it be placed on the metal clip that is ~2-3 inches down inside the boot?
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I was taking out my plugs 2 of them were soaked with gas and oil and 1 of the other ones just spins. what do I do? The car is a 1995 tbird 133000 miles the car has been sitting for a year and I couldn't get it to start that's why I am pulling the plugs the car ran fine when it was parked....
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I just finished rebuilding my 1990 2.9 and it wouldn't start. When we did the initial start up, the truck needed ether to start and ran decently while stumbling. I found out that the spout connector was removed from the previous owner so I spliced it but still no starting ...
I installed a new fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter and cleaned the MAF. ..
Its not a spark problem because I'm getting good spark from all the cylinders and yes the timing was set correctly. It sounds like it wants to start but just doesn't have something to make it boom. There are also no codes...
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Have a 2006 Ford Taurus that has two dead cylinders. Cylinder 3 and 4. Code says bad coil. I replaced with new coil and plugs. Same problem. Replaced wires and same problem.
Car has 65K. What is causing both cylinders to be dead? Pulled wires off while running and no spark on 3 and 4.
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Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
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1994 Mercedes C280, Cylinder 1 & 6 no spark. Changed 3 coil packs, changed wires and spark plugs. Engine wire harness look fine. Cylinders 2,3,4,5 have spark. Coil number 3 Controls Cylinder 1& 6; and I use multi-meter to check for voltage. 11.70 volts with key on position, 13.80 volts with ignition on. I need to figure out could it be a sensor or the ECU( Computer) or Engine?
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I need getting my Buick to start. It is a 1989 LeSabre Limited with a series 1 3800 engine. I only have spark on cylinders 3 and 6 (paired on ignition coil). I have run tests to see that I have that I have 12 volts to the ignition module, 12 volts out to the crank sensor, signals coming from the crank sensor. I pulled the coil pack and found that I only have a signal on the blue wire supplying 3 and 6. I don't get a signal on the green and yellow wires supplying the other 4 cylinders. My tests would indicate that the ICM is bad. I replaced the ICM and out of desperation the coil pack and I still have the exact same problem. I cleaned the aluminum surface to make sure I have an excellent ground.
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My dad was changing his plugs today (2000 passat 1.8t) and he found some oil down in the holes for the plugs on the front two cylinders (closest to the front of the car) and also on the plugs themselves, and needless to say hes a little concerned. he doesn't think there should be any there. headgasket?? He has 105k miles...
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I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 egr has been deleted and so on. Truck has been very trustworthy until now... It all started last week. I would get in and it would fire right up, drive 15 miles to work all is still good. Time to go home try to start and it would act like the batteries were weak with a weak crank until it finally takes off and starts. This intermittent situation has been happening but I just assumed that the batteries were going bad. I drove to work this morning truck fired right up and now that it is time to go home the truck only has a weak crank and wont fire up. I tested the batteries and they were low on cranking amps.
Replaced them with two new batteries. The issue still exists and didn't change. After reading through threads I found that it could be the FICM I checked it out as was shown through the other threads. With the key on only it was reading 51 vdc with someone trying to start the truck it was reading 48-50 vdc... Yes the truck does have fuel in it and yes the oil is good to. It seems that there is something electrical going on for sure due to the way it has been an intermittent problem for a week or so. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade but can fix anything if I know where to start.
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2008 F250 Lariat ... A/C is blowing real weak in all modes and temperatures. Did some reading and found that the evaporator and heater core could be clogged. I am just going to go ahead and assume taking the dash out of the truck and replacing both heater core and evap core would be the best fix. On to my question.. Where are the main mounting points for the dash?
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I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat GLS. Bought it used just the other day with no radio in it. I put my after market Blaupunkt in it today and it took me seriously 5seconds. Instantly had sound, but it was only coming from the driver's side front and rear, but the volume was weak in the rear. I was going to look for the amp, but idk if it had the monsoon sound or not. Has 4 speakers and 4 tweeters, but i'm not sure if it's the Monsoon sound or Premium.
why my antenna is very weak as well? why I have weak/no sound output from my speakers, if I have premium or monsoon sound and why I have such a weak antenna and how to fix all of these things.
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I have a 1999 ford escort that is slow turning over and now does not turn over at all. I have replaced the battery, starter, alternator and neutral safety switch.
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I have a 1999 Ford Escort, five speed. Until recently, I have not had any issues with it, but its age is beginning to show.
This past week, I've noticed a rattling noise from under the hood when idling, such as at a stoplight. Once I start moving, I can no longer hear the noise, though it is possible the road noise is hiding it.
What this is? Is it serious, or just an old car making noise?
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I have a 99 escort zx2 with an A/T. I just recently redid the whole front end. Installed new struts, springs, mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends (inner and outer) wheel bearings and CV shafts. Got it aligned after all that work and now I have a vibration whenever I apply power, whether its upon acceleration or when I'm going up a hill. The vibration frequency increases with speed and feels more like a frame vibration than a steering vibration. Does not make any difference on turning or not. After I noticed the vibration I put my winter wheels on thinking maybe it was a misbalanced wheel but no change. And here is the kicker, if I jack the car up the vibration will go away for about 45 mins of driving time before it starts to fade back in. Checked all of my bolts for tightness and changed the CV shafts again. brought it to another shop who could not find the source. They double checked the alignment and its straight as can be. Could it possibly be a bad strut? I installed Monroe sensa-trac with all Monroe associated mounts and hardware.
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I was driving my car today and it started driving like the brakes were on. It started to smell like rubber was burning. Before that I stopped at a traffic light and the car pulled to the left. Is the little car dying. 1999 ford escort zx2...
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99 escort 2.0 will not start. Has spark, fuel pressure, and 100 psi compression in each cylinder. After cranking for awhile , pull the plugs out and the plugs are wet with fuel. There is no answers anywhere on the net, but apparently there are others like this out there. No codes also.
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I've got a 99 Ford Escort Se 4 door sedan, Automatic trans with about 140k miles on it that randomly stalls when stopping at a red light. It is random and rare, but it does happen.
When it stalls, it sounds and feels like something is mechanically stopping the engine, like maybe it's not disconnecting from the automatic transmission. I can hear the engine working hard as the car slows down, it jumps around in the engine compartment a little bit, then dies as the car comes to a complete stop.
Then I start the car back up, everything is back to normal and I drive away with no further problems for the rest of the trip.
What can cause this? Does this car have a TCC clutch in the torque converter? Is it maybe randomly being falsely triggered to apply at low speed?
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